Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


corradovr6

Registered Member
  • Posts

    259
  • Joined

  • Last visited

2 Followers

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Hasan
  • Toyota Model
    Yaris T Sport
  • Toyota Year
    2002
  • Location
    Greater London

Recent Profile Visitors

1,746 profile views

corradovr6's Achievements

Community Regular

Community Regular (8/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter

Recent Badges

73

Reputation

  1. Hi all, i'm mainly on the yaris forum so not many posts here! My wife has a 1.6 2003 auto Corolla. Recently had the check engine light come on and a scan reveals the code p0770 solenoid E. I changed the fluid about 2 years back, although just drained it as opposed to pumping it out of the torque converter. You can hear that it is not able to lock into direct drive on a run although the revs still appear normal and the mpg hasn't been affected. Just looked at the fluid and it looks slightly brown, but i assume that this is because its mixed with some of the old fluid that i could get out last time. Any pointers or suggestions to resolve? If the solenoid is indeed at fault, it this simple to diagnose and rectify? I've never really gone into an auto box much other than fluid change (and filters on older cars) Many thanks Hasan
  2. Its such a shame that this kind of attitude still prevails. I'm sorry you've had to go through this Paul. It just seems to be a trait the auto trade - lack of attention to detail, pride in their work and honesty/integrity in what's being done. I had a mechanic try and give me the BS about leaky shocks on my wife's car some years back and that 'he could get me some good ones with a trade discount for £180 for two'. Er, no thanks I'll get them myself and fit them for less than half of that. What's wrong with them, I asked? Oh they're leaking. Where exactly? Umm, well there's oil over the shock absorber. Hmm strange, i cant see any, just lots of dry road dust and debris on the shocks... Like you say, if you can find someone with a four poster and a dust mask, he could certainly make a good job of it quite easily. Proper prep, cleanup, prime and seal.
  3. How are you getting on with this? Do take some pics and any issues you face - would be good to know what to watch out for. All the best in sorting it
  4. like you i'm not really an aircon guy - unless its absolutely necessary. The problem is that not using an a/c is the worst thing for it. Seal will dry up and leak. Not sure if you can get a self recharge can with a dye to check for leaks? Otherwise, i would assume a good aircon garage can check it for you, and hopefully not too expensive! I think that there is also a leak repair solution available - not sure how effective though. Perhaps worth looking into?
  5. ok thanks. I'll keep the oil tray there just in case...
  6. I was thinking of using j&r trading. They have a good reputation in the vw circles, have you had any experience with them here at all? Also, how much gearbox fluid is typically lost during a swop? I was looking to drain and refill this weekend and then take my time in getting the right driveshafts
  7. Anyone with experience of changing these? RHS one has started clicking slightly. I am thinking of replacing the driveshaft and CV joint complete as opposed to dismantling and replacing the joint alone as it looks like it will be simpler. Anything to be aware of and does the driveshaft just pull out of the gearbox (hence fitting will be tapping it back in)? Presumably we'll have to be quick to avoid loss of too much gearbox fluid. Many thanks in advance.
  8. I know its been a while but did you manage to sell this? A friend of mine is looking for a runaround for his wife. Many thanks
  9. Not a silly question at all. Sometimes the wrong grease is used (eg copper grease) which dries out leaving a non-lubricated surface. Brakes experience some very high temperatures and not all lubes are designed to operate under these conditions. Some high pressure cleaners can just blast away any lube. But it can also be if the pads don't float properly or if surfaces are not properly cleaned and smoothed prior to install. Regreasing brakes should really be a part of an annual service, imho
  10. these can be polished using a green kitchen scourer if there are any uneven areas. Then use the right grease - i use Red Rubber Grease, which as its name suggests, is red! A small tin lasts ages, you only really need a small amount
  11. That's great news Terry, and well done for sticking with it! A great learning experience too I'm sure but also sure you're glad to see the back of this one
  12. Thanks Paul. Yes, shocking isnt it! i thought it would be a shame not to make the most of the sun. Hopefully we'll have a few more so the seats and carpet can be done too.. I would definitely moisturise the rubbers, both in the summer and winter to prevent them from sticking. That includes the sunroof seal, door seals and boot seals.
  13. nothing major, but just a wash of the seatbelts to remove 20 years of grime - just look at the water there! They now both retract nicely. Washed the mats too and lubed the aerial pivot - again looks like its never been moved. Now moving nicely. Greased the sunroof mech, but its quite tricky to see where to apply any lube, i'll probably do it again after running the sunroof back and forth a few times. Managed to polish the frame around it and applied some 'gummiplege' to the rubber seal.
  14. Kind words Paul, certainly appreciated. Mine has actually needed these little jobs doing to it, whereas yours is as it should be! That said, I do like to take a car from a poor beginning to a good standard. Half the fun is in the tinkering! Mine will need some paint on the drivers wing as it looks as though it was resprayed at some time but with not such a good colour match. The shame is, though, the pain finish is really superb
×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership