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Everything posted by corradovr6

  1. Not a silly question at all. Sometimes the wrong grease is used (eg copper grease) which dries out leaving a non-lubricated surface. Brakes experience some very high temperatures and not all lubes are designed to operate under these conditions. Some high pressure cleaners can just blast away any lube. But it can also be if the pads don't float properly or if surfaces are not properly cleaned and smoothed prior to install. Regreasing brakes should really be a part of an annual service, imho
  2. these can be polished using a green kitchen scourer if there are any uneven areas. Then use the right grease - i use Red Rubber Grease, which as its name suggests, is red! A small tin lasts ages, you only really need a small amount
  3. That's great news Terry, and well done for sticking with it! A great learning experience too I'm sure but also sure you're glad to see the back of this one
  4. Thanks Paul. Yes, shocking isnt it! i thought it would be a shame not to make the most of the sun. Hopefully we'll have a few more so the seats and carpet can be done too.. I would definitely moisturise the rubbers, both in the summer and winter to prevent them from sticking. That includes the sunroof seal, door seals and boot seals.
  5. nothing major, but just a wash of the seatbelts to remove 20 years of grime - just look at the water there! They now both retract nicely. Washed the mats too and lubed the aerial pivot - again looks like its never been moved. Now moving nicely. Greased the sunroof mech, but its quite tricky to see where to apply any lube, i'll probably do it again after running the sunroof back and forth a few times. Managed to polish the frame around it and applied some 'gummiplege' to the rubber seal.
  6. Kind words Paul, certainly appreciated. Mine has actually needed these little jobs doing to it, whereas yours is as it should be! That said, I do like to take a car from a poor beginning to a good standard. Half the fun is in the tinkering! Mine will need some paint on the drivers wing as it looks as though it was resprayed at some time but with not such a good colour match. The shame is, though, the pain finish is really superb
  7. Hi Terry. How has the car performed after the injector swop? Did you manage to scan it again after a run?
  8. Swopped out the cloudy old headlights and fitted some nice new ones. Polished up the slam panel behind the bumper - you never see it but just thought it was good to do! Finally, added a piece of neoprene foam where one of the wiring looms rubs a very thin (hence potential cutting risk) corner. Worth checking if you've not done it before. Cleaned up some rust in the bay by the battery and applied some Kurust to it. A few other areas that might need some more work. Fitted a new (used) D/S foglight. Cleaned the light connectors and regreased all the bulb seals and fittings - much easier to refit and hopefully sealing better. Added some foam to the black air guide to the left of the radiator as this was rattling slightly. Now nice and quiet. Fiddlier than expected especially as the bumper mounting clip in the wheelarch was damaged - next project to repair properly. Sorry i didnt get a 'before' shot. Lighting is certainly improved
  9. Hi Terry, i think you can swop the fob internals over and then re-pair the key to the ecu. Means you keep the same mechanical part of the key. All the best - i know you're going to solve this!
  10. How is it running at present? Hopefully it has been solved but if not, any chance of swopping the injectors over to replicate the issue? With P0100, if you delete, run the car and rescan does it come back? Might be worth spraying the connector with contact cleaner first as well as giving the MAF a good blast. Leave to dry properly and then reinstall.
  11. i may have missed this, but did you swop the coilpacks around at all? Eg swop coilpack 3 with 1 and take it for a drive and see if you still get the fault on 3 or on 1. If its still 3 then the fault is not the coilpack its further upstream. Also when you checked continuity of the harness did you shake the individual wires per loom of the harness? Are the connections to the ecu all clean and making good contact? Can you make up a connector and pulse each injector with direct power and see if its opening properly? Just wondering if the injector on 3 is clogged? I salute your patience at sticking with it, hopefully a solution is not far away
  12. thats pretty good Paul! On that kind of trip mine will give a maximum of 40mpg if i really try. Invariably its around 34-37, but its always tempting to boot it every so often if only to hear the fruity exhaust note.. My old 1.3CDX used to give around 39 around town and 43 on the motorway - we had this from new and ensured it was properly maintained.
  13. I'm inclined to think its related to the pivot lengths from the fulcrum and the available extension from the clutch slave. It seems that a full push of the pedal to the floor only just allows the fork to release, so this should be increased further to allow a clean release. The problem will then be that on releasing the pedal the fork will not go all the way back resulting in clutch wear. Catch 22... Just another thought though, adjusting the clutch pedal rod by opening the end fitting by a turn or so and then also moving the clutch pedal stop back by about the same amount 'might' be a way around it. The issue would then be that the pedal will be slightly higher than the brake pedal...
  14. I think you can loosen the clutch pedal locknut and wind the fitting out a turn or so. Should give a little bit more movement at the gearbox end for the same pedal travel. I need to do this too. Its one of my real hates on the yaris. My old one had the same issue. It seems its a yaris querk..
  15. i would loosen each UJ clamp in turn. Just a turn or so to relax the pressure on the spindle. Drop some oil onto the spindle splines and then tighten up. I've not removed the steering UJ on the yaris but you may be able to separate it completely. If so, mark the fitted position on each part with tippex or something similar, remove, clean and then apply some grease to the joint. Refit, lining the two pieces in the old position. Then tighten up. Metal to metal contact often causes noises and creaks. Alternatively, you can use a light oil on the splines, ensuring its gone through all of them, and then apply some heavier oil which will get drawn in by gravity and capillary action. Means you don't have to separate the joint.
  16. Is there a colour code, or a good colour match for the interior plastic trim on the tsport? Mine has some scratches which I'm looking to spray, or otherwise correct. Thanks
  17. If its the splines, you can either remove the joint, clean and relube or more easily use a small syringe and thin needle and squirt some oil in between the grooves of the splines
  18. You can get a disinfecting spray which you leave open for a while with the fan running and windows closed. Exact instructions on the can. I thinks it's about £5 per can Alternatively you can use a handheld steamer and blast it through the vents changing the direction control as appropriate
  19. i wonder how different it is to the Mk1 Yaris. On mine, it was a single (10mm?) removed from the front using a flat ratchet spanner. Not enough space for a socket though.
  20. Check the slider pins for uneven wear and if necessary rub them with some emery cloth. When reassembling, use some red rubber grease (designed to use in applications where rubber boots etc may swell) as opposed to any other 'standard' lithium grease
  21. well done for finding this and for the persistence in sorting. These things really do a make a difference in terms of enjoying the drive. I need to sort the back seat rattling, so will need to dismantle the seat to look at the locking points.
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