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    Gen 6 Celica GT & Gen 6 Celica GT-Four

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edamduke's Achievements

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  1. I am selling a few bits for an ST205 to make room in my shed. Please see the links to my ebay items below: Forge Turbo Actuator http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...me=STRK:MESE:IT Rad Fans http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...me=STRK:MESE:IT Fuel Pump Holder http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...me=STRK:MESE:IT
  2. I am selling a pair of working rad fans on ebay. They came from my ST205. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...me=STRK:MESE:IT Cheers, Ben
  3. But your GT is not an ST202 is it? A lot of people make the change from a 202 GT to a 205 but for you the jump will be a big one. They are a lot older and require more attention than your Gen 7. I can't speak much for imports as I've never owned one, although I think I have been convinced of the benefits of better condition/lower mileage etc. I think you could find a mint UK 96 205 for little over £5k. My '96 was one of the last ones made for the UK market and was in good nick. I only paid £4k a year ago. In answer to your questions, Imports will almost certainly cheaper, White can look very nice, you can get an electronic boost controller for anything from £160. Makiwa: The 2nd picture is the older pre-facelift <95. They can also have different side skirts and spoilers. As I said, for me the most obvious visual indication of an import is the rear number plate. But the most accurate way is to check the VIN.
  4. Booster is correct. The pictures are of pre and post facelift models. These are the same regardless of import/export. The quickest visual reminder of an import is its square rear number plate. Personally I have stuck to UK models which made finding my Four tricky. Others swear by imports. Although, I think I would look more seriously at imports if I bought another GT-Four.
  5. There are loads of subtle differences but none that really affect performance or any that will change your life on a daily basis. There are pros and cons to each. This has been discussed to death many times. Examples of factory differences include specs such as air con and sunroofs, some of the interior switch gear and steering wheel etc. and the ECU's tune which is mapped for different RON fuels. If you really want to know differences there are many people here that could give you a precise list as long as your leg!
  6. Deamon tweeks have plenty of stuff. I want to do mine but the stuff is so expensive I find it hard to justify. Do you really think it will make much of a difference?
  7. If you are getting it done at a garage, then no not really. Is it the 1st or second replacement cambelt? ie 60k or 120k miles? A lot of people say to replace the idler pulleys and the tensioner but personally I wouldn't bother unless they really needed doing. A good mechanic should be able to tell you this. These parts can really bump up the costs.
  8. Convertibles are actually very different, especially towards the rear. These are based on the American sedan Celica (ie not liftback). The rear strut almost certainly wouldn't fit unfortunately. Like all verts, the chassis will be beefed up to compensate from the loss of stiffness gained by the roof.
  9. Couldn't say for certain on the brakes and suspension. As already said, some of the JDM 202s have the super strut late SS-II and SS-III I think. I can't imagine these models being drastically different so I don't see why they couldn't fit with a a few other components changed. The brakes physically won't fit under stock rims but I'd assume you will plan to change these anyway. Front strut brace is identical. Rear strut is a straight forward bolt on and I would recommend this in the top 5mods on any ST202. Wheel base is the same AFAIK.
  10. As you correctly pointed out there are some obvious differences. The 4 main ones are, Turbo (+ associated systems), Drivetrain, Suspension and Brakes. There are obviously many more differences but they are mostly due to the 4 above. However, the majority of the car is the same and many of the components are interchangeable. Did you have any in mind?
  11. Good choice. Like you I'd only had Nissans until I got the Celica. Like most Jap cars they are fairly similar and there isn't anything specific to look for really. Which model are you thinking of? In the UK line up, the main models are 1.8 ST, 2.0 GT or GT-Four. I would personally go for the GT. It is a fantastic all rounder and relatively cheap to buy and run. If you are set on the GT-Four, you need to do much more research as owning one is much more of a challenge. You can pick a perfect GT up for less than £3k and it will last you for years with no troubles. Check all the usual things, service history, rust, HPI, tyres, brakes and suspension. The only common things that go wrong with the Celica are the power aerial and the alarm. Also, check the cambelt has been replaced as this is very important. Meant to be done every 60k or 5 years but I'd ignore the latter. There are many more cheaper imports on the market and these can have many advantages and disadvantages. Like the GT-Four, I'd do a little more research before buying one of these. Let us know how you get on :D
  12. It's a tricky decision to be honest and you're not the 1st to make it. The Celica will be cheaper in almost all ways and as I have no experience with the Mazda, I would be slightly biased (even if gen7s are the enemy ;) ). IMO the RX8s actually look quite dated too. Still, they are awesome cars. Get what you think will suit you best. If you are hoping someone will convince you to get a 190 then I think your decision has already been made. Plus if you get bored of the power, you can easily supercharge it and it will ***** all over the RX8.
  13. You will find it extremely difficult to find a good UK one. They are also very expensive. You'd be looking at around a min. of £7k, probably closer to £10k for a decent one.
  14. You are right, the compression is high on this engine but as I said, as long as you take sensible precautions, there is always room for more air/fuel mix. 6-8psi I a relatively low level of boost compared with that produced by big turbos. The main concern with any forced induction motor is det. (pre-ignition). There will be extra stresses on components but we're only talking about a power increase of 20% or so. These engines are easily capable of taking this sort of increase without any danger. Cost can vary immensely depending on the kit chosen, supplier and tuner. Also, most people will tell you you need to match other parts of the car eg, brakes, suspension etc. and come up with figures around £5k. The truth of the matter is that the SC kit will cost around £1.5k but this comes with everything including all hardware, new 440cc injectors and an eManage piggy back ECU! Bargain! You will need to get a boost gauge and a good wide band O2 sensor, fitting and tuning. All in, it would be roughly £2-3k depending on how much you do yourself.
  15. edamduke


    Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the club. Look at the link and click on "How to.." "Fit a dump valve" gtfours :D Hope this helps.
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