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rolfharris

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Everything posted by rolfharris

  1. Cheers!! I'm going to be purchasing one in the next day or two I'll keep everyone posted on the outcome..
  2. Just got an email back from this guy.. I asked what the lowest price he'd sell me one .. said £925.00 would be shipped straight to me with 12 months warranty also would be in a metal storage case.. INTERESTED also noted that if I was to pay via paypal I have all the buyer's protection of PayPal guarantee's...
  3. It's the same tool that the dealers use... Like the idea of never having to be ripped of by them again! my last repair was injectors on my rav... with this tool and my good friend that works in a garage could of saved me a load of cash.. my mate said he couldn't do the job as something about injector compensation... needed the factory tool! also program my own keys!
  4. That's hitting the "Rev Limiter" ... normal for your Tsport
  5. Hi Guys This looks like a deal, came across this when I was browsing for a Scan Tool for my 01MR2 and 05Rav4 Toyota Scan Tool What do you guys think? should I buy one? Cheers Rolfy
  6. Hi Justin Do you have a full service history for this car? And I'f it's non Toyota service stamps (Independents) can you show Toyota Parts were fitted? Has your friend looked into the extended Engine Warranty from Toyota?
  7. Hi Lee Have a quick read of this then go to a post T3x 2.2 D4d 55 Plate, Engine Noise & Blue Smoke Help PM me if you have any questions... Carl Hi Lee I've been advised to remove the TSB's from public view, just PM me for the info.... Thanks Carl
  8. Hi Lee Have a quick read of this then go to a post T3x 2.2 D4d 55 Plate, Engine Noise & Blue Smoke Help PM me if you have any questions... Carl
  9. OK Darren Have a look at this..... As long as your vehicle is within the range of avensis (dont have your car details) I bet you this will fix your car.. I've seen Avensis's kick out loads of blue smoke when the Injectors are bad.. Sorry about the "Rough" copy I've used this paper work a lot! You will need the Toyota Intelligent Tester II (same the main dealers have) to complete the Injector compensation procedure.. I have all the equipment to complete this repair.. email or PM any time.. Hi Darren I have emailed you some info.. As you Avensis has the 2ADFTV engine you will have to check if the Injectors are the new or old type... This can be done as described on the 1st page of the TSB.. OR if you want to email or post a GOOD quality picture of the top of one injector I will be able to tell you... This is a picture from the Toyota EPC Notice the part number of the injector.... see that it matches the injector part number of the old type in the TSB above.. This will supersede to the new part number when ordered from Toyota I have complete this repair many times, the Injectors (if needed) to be replaced then the "Injector Compensation" Procedure needs to be completed after the new injectors are installed... Thanks Carl
  10. OK Darren Have a look at this..... As long as your vehicle is within the range of avensis (dont have your car details) I bet you this will fix your car.. I've seen Avensis's kick out loads of blue smoke when the Injectors are bad.. Sorry about the "Rough" copy I've used this paper work a lot! You will need the Toyota Intelligent Tester II (same the main dealers have) to complete the Injector compensation procedure.. I have all the equipment to complete this repair.. email or PM any time..
  11. The symptoms that lead to the fault would kill a non interference engine. When a cooling system full of only water freezes it forms ice ( who's volume is greater than that of the water it came from ). As the Ice forms and expands it cracks the internal channels ( oil, coolant etc ) within the engine block so they all bleed into each other - no compression, no cooling/lubricating. Engine condemned ! Interference engine or not , if it's frozen inside it's hoofed In the event this happens the the core plugs normal "pop" as these are designed to do that , like I said get a correct complete diagnoses 1st before condemning an engine.
  12. Hi My 1st instinct reading about your problem is on the safety issue.. If you are checking spark at the plugs and I presume your doing this with the spark plug in the end of the lead earthed against the vale cover and you have a fuel leak in the fuel rail... you know where I'm going with this... Please be careful! That aside Yes the fuel leak with have a major effect on the running capability of your engine. 1st replace any leaking "O" ring on the fuel rail then once the engine is running and if it is still poor disconnect 1 injector at a time and see if there is any difference in the idling as you disconnect the injector. If you find 1 that doesn't make a difference then see if you can get hold of a noide light and place in the injector connector, this will flash when the ecu is sending a signal to the injector. Let me know how you get on.. can PM me anytime. Hi Chap! Yeah Fuel and sparks.. agreed I am certinaly keeping careful! I have found something! please see photos. the 1st is the shot of the engine bay.. the second is of a nut with two red arrows. When the engine tries to start 3-5 drops of fuel come from one of the two arrows.. i cant see where exactly and i cant tighten the nut... This is definately the problem!!!!! this coincides with poor fuel economy and the no running option. How can i fix this? btw, i have spent the last 10 years of my life with MR2's .. I have done engine changes before, so im not a novice, but with todays modern higher pressure fuel lines im a little cautios. In this case i find this valve impossible to remove. so i cant check the precise location of the leak. Rolf assistance would be REALLY helpful!!! :) http://www.sportsdykker.com/vf101/phpbb2/e...73_dsc01691.jpg http://www.sportsdykker.com/vf101/phpbb2/e...3_dsc01692a.jpg Hi Kurt Could you PM me your registration and Chassis number and I'll have a look at the Toyota EPC and see if that union is part of the fuel rail.. Thanks Carl
  13. Hi 1st thing 1st What car has your friend got... As a lot of Toyota engines are non Interference Engines (Valves cant hit the pistons) Once we have established that lets diagnose the fault correctly with out condemning the engine 1st.. Can PM me any time.. Carl
  14. Hi 1st check is turn the ignition on.. Does the engine malfunction light illuminate Should be solid. If this is OK I would start looking at the VVTi controller or the VVTi gear or the Engine ECU... Quick question when was the last oil change, if the oil is old and "Slugged" this can effect the VVTi controller. The 2 diagnostic codes you need to address 1st is the P1215 and P1656 I will find a couple of TSB's on these can PM me anytime. Carl Here's a check for the P1656 DTC this is for a 1ZZ-FE Engine
  15. Hi 1st check is turn the ignition on.. Does the engine malfunction light illuminate Should be solid. If this is OK I would start looking at the VVTi controller or the VVTi gear or the Engine ECU... Quick question when was the last oil change, if the oil is old and "Slugged" this can effect the VVTi controller. The 2 diagnostic codes you need to address 1st is the P1215 and P1656 I will find a couple of TSB's on these can PM me anytime. Carl
  16. Hi Why not have someone complete a Combustion Leak Detection test, It's checking to see if there any Hydrocarbons in the cooling system, Very quick and easy test.. Your mechanic could do this for you. Can pm me anytime. Carl
  17. Hi Could be a possible turbo But a quick inspection is this: Remove the airbox top and boot from the turbo. with a long screwdriver and a torch, shine the torch in to the turbo and notice the turbo shaft, with the long screwdriver see if you can move the turbo shaft laterally, If you can feel play in the shaft then the turbo is starting to wear. Do you have any performance issues? How does it start in the mornings? excessive smoke? Have you had an oil consumption test performed? if so how much oil was used and in what mileage? what tests have your dealer performed? you can pm me any time.. let me know..
  18. Hi My 1st instinct reading about your problem is on the safety issue.. If you are checking spark at the plugs and I presume your doing this with the spark plug in the end of the lead earthed against the vale cover and you have a fuel leak in the fuel rail... you know where I'm going with this... Please be careful! That aside Yes the fuel leak with have a major effect on the running capability of your engine. 1st replace any leaking "O" ring on the fuel rail then once the engine is running and if it is still poor disconnect 1 injector at a time and see if there is any difference in the idling as you disconnect the injector. If you find 1 that doesn't make a difference then see if you can get hold of a noide light and place in the injector connector, this will flash when the ecu is sending a signal to the injector. Let me know how you get on.. can PM me anytime.
  19. With the Toyota website that's listed as well, when used... could save yourself a fortune.. Would be good for a Toyota Repair shop ... Rolfy
  20. Hi All Was looking for a code reader on eBay and found this.. eBay Listing Have seen this tool used at my Local Toyota Main Dealer.. Would love to have it!! Rolfy
  21. Hi All What model of Toyota's Europe and USA use the Ignition Key with the 4D Chip in it. The key has no buttons on it .. Is there a lot of UK models with it? Cheers Rolfy
  22. Hi Ian Yes you are correct, it's a bulb behind the "D" that blows. No it'll be OK for MOT Good Luck Carl
  23. Hi John It's more than likely going to be the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve which is under the throttle body; I have replaced some of these when I was working for Toyota in California, Now back in the UK :) You can remove this and clean it out does get carbon deposits in the bottom of it this does help.. Hope you get it sorted mate.. Carl
  24. Hi parts king Can I use the www.toyota-tech.eu web site and integrate it with the new techstream Toyota scan tool? see here same as TIS techstream in the USA? cheers Rolfy
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