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Everything posted by peterc.lewis@blueyonder.co.uk

  1. I jacked the car up (but of course the whole front or it would have taken off across the drive with a driven wheel in contact with the ground. I couldn't see anything so am going to get a local mechanic to have a look and take it from there. If it is the gearbox then the car is dead, I'm not pouring a ton of cash in to a car that will no doubt die of oil consumption problems in the future. We'll see and I will feedback as I am grateful for people taking their time out and it's a way of filling in the gaps... Cheers folks.
  2. Good thinking! I have just had the tires changed but the noise was there beforehand. Hub or driveshaft would seem like a sensible place to look. I might take it to the local garage so he can chuck it on the rolling road. I suspect that this is one job I might be leaving to the garage if it is either of these two. Cheers
  3. Not noisier going round corners. I checked for stones and stuff (for reasons that would take far too long to explain but it involves an old mate of mine in Cardiff and the way his uncle checked mechanics out before he hired them). Straight line and the noise increases and decreases with over the ground speed. Not Rev's. Got me scratching my head ....
  4. As best as I can tell it is more likely transmission than engine as it speeds up and slows down with the car moving. Once stationary (speed zero) there is no noise. Also the noise does not seem to be directly related to the operation of the clutch. If I rev the engine while stopped and depress the clutch (out of gear) nothing. If I drive off and lift the clutch in gear there are no unusual noises. The only clear way I can describe it is it almost sounds like there's a blt sticking out of the side of the wheel and it is hitting something, just slightly , as the wheel rotated. No wheel rotation , no noise. Thanks again for the prompt responses, appreciated.
  5. Cheers for the prompt responses. I keep an eye on the oil like a hawk, it's a vvti :) What I forgot to mention is that the noise seems to not be engine related. I could be wrong though. I have actually switched the engine off and coasted down a long hill and you can still hear the clattering with the engine switched off (yeah I know , brakes etc :) ). I thought it was engine related until I thought it's not related to engine revs at all,but the speed the car is actually rolling at. The engine runs sweet. You are right though , I need to get that leak traced.
  6. Me again, long time no look in. I've now got a X reg 1.8 VVTI with around 74000 miles on the clock. Because I usually drive around with the stereo on I hadn't noticed a noise till my wife pointed it out and since then I can't miss it. At first it sounded like pinking as it was most evident (or appeared to be) when you put you foot down in a high gear and loud the engine. Change of plugs was due anyway and I put in injector cleaner and higher octane fuel to see if that made any difference. Nope. Checked the fluid levels (including the manual transmission level) and all is well , or as well as it could be, I seem to have a general oil leak as the bottom of the engine is wet with oil , though not flowing with the stuff. I took my foot off the gas and pushed in the clutch. Sound remained (though less noticable , still there). As I pulled up to stop I noticed that the frequency of the noise was speed dependant. Faster you went the quicker the sound got. It is also not rev dependant. It sounds to me like something is clattering or clicking against something else and I was after some ideas. Cheers, Pete.
  7. From what I understand it's quite common for the tanks on these to spring a leak. Had one for ages on my 1998 R 1.8. Finally tracked it down to a pinprick corrosion hole just above the seam . Used a leak fix compund and a small self tapping screw. Thoroughly cleaned the area down to bare metal, smeared the leak fix stuff on the screw and screwed it in to the hole. Then built a mound of sealant round the screw. Job done and it's been fine (leak wise) ever since.
  8. Just gone to do an oil change on the "new" vvti and the sump plug is WAY too tight and is going to take some force to remove. Optimistically it will just come off , but in preperation for the threads stripping.... Does anyone know if an oversize plug or repair plug is available for a 2001 (X) 1.8 VVTI GS Avensis. If so what size ? I just hate forcing things as it nearly always points to something wrong but I have GOT to change the oil at some point so need to bite the bullet. Cheers.
  9. Don't leave your keys in the car. No seriously, I always assume the !Removed! thing will do something daft so make sure I have the key on me (watch the post to say I locked myself in). My 2000 had a problem with the tail gate light that I tracked to a couple of severed wires in the boot lid shoe. I made a repair but due to a lack of space decided I did not need the boot light. So it does not come on. If I unlock it and put the keys in the boot then about ten seconds later the whole car relocks. Don't leave your keys in a car EVER is the rule I go by, unless I've wound the window down that is.
  10. There's a saga on here about my 1998 1.8 GS and it's starting issues. In the end replacing the crankshaft sensor appears to have solved the problem and she starts again even when cold as ice. Have you tried bump starting it and jump starting it ? Mine was fine till it very suddenly started really playing up. Turned but would not fire. Until the garage got it then it would start every time. Ahh! (1.8 GS in 1998 was 7AFE rather than VVTI but worth a check). Have you managed to get any engine managament codes off it ? This could give you at least some ideas. All the best. Pete.
  11. I'd make absolutely sure it is the ECU first. I had at least one garage say ECU and it turned out to be the crank shaft sensor (well I replaced it and it worked). It's not a cheap option as the ECU is keyed to the car. IF it is though I know at least one person who has used ECU Doctor on the internet but not for Toyota. All the best.
  12. Do you have a sun roof ? Try opening and closing it. If you turn the interior light to door does it stay on when all the doors are shut? Check all fuses.
  13. Welcome to the world of the Toyota parts pricing world. Not very constructive I know, just a comment.
  14. Try wiggling the key a bit as you turn it. Idf this makes a difference it COULD be the ignition key. Check thoroughly as no options are ever cheap on an avensis ;(
  15. I had this on mine. Check the fuses near your leg. A 10A one had blown . It has nothing on it to suggest it is to do with the fans so you might not have checked it. If it's not 10A then check them all.
  16. When you say it starts , do it rev freely then just die ? Does the exhaust sound OK or is it possible it is blocked ? Is there a blockage in the air intake / filter area? How long has it done it ? Are you getting a strong spark ? Lots of questions but the more info you can give the more likely someone on here can help.
  17. It'll be an ODB2 socket but confusingly not OBD2. The sockets were fitted as the American market had full OBD much earlier than the UK market. 1999 I reckon you'll get flash codes rather than OBD2 and the readers will not read much if anything. Bent bit of paperclip, cheap as chips.
  18. Yep, fingers crossed and a great deal of thanks to people just like you for your advice. Cheers again Gooli.
  19. It's been a while as I was trying to source a crank sensor from a breaker. Got sick of waiting in the end and still waiting for a refund for one that sent the wrong part altogether and hasn't paid me back. I'll send them something in writing but if they don't respond then I might just name and shame. New sensor ordered from the ever reliable chaps in North Wales at Lindop. I have to say THEIR service is always swift and accurate. Installed and then put all the cam belt covers etc back on, all the belts , checked the plugs and attached the battery. Started with only the slightest hesitation and revved freely from the off (which it was not doing before). OK it's warm at the moment so I'm going to keep restarting her on and off on the drive till I've got her insured and can take her for a spin. Things are looking up though as even when she started before (in the warm) she wouldn't rev freely till totally warmed up. probably the plugs fouling. Thanks to everyone who posted, I know I went down some right blind alleys with this. The upshot is I now know a lot more about my car. Fingers crossed.
  20. Whoooaaaa!!! The filter does not sound like the one for the 7AFE. First thing I'd suggest is buying the Haynes manual for the car. My 1998 7AFE has a fuel filter metal cylinder attached to the bulk head. The top is a banjo bolt with the bottom a tube going in to the centre of the filter. It sounds to me like you have the filter for the 1.8 VVTI which is not the same at all having a plastic clip arrangement (I've got one of them now too :) ). They are not interchangeable. Removing fuel lines without depressurising the system will probably spray fuel everywhere and it is not something I would recommend. Haynes manual suggests disconnecting the wires to the fuel pump (under the rear seat) and running the car till it stalls , try it a couple of times till you are sure it will not run. Remove the filler cap too. If you are planning on doing any more work then get the haynes manual first. They aren't perfect but they do explain all you need by the sound of it. When you get the right filter make sure you line the hole in the filter with the hole in the banjo bolt too or you'll have "issues". Petrol spraying out anywhere at pressure is a major fire risk so please be careful.
  21. Don't get the wrong impression just because people post problems on here. My 1998 GS was great till it had a few problems at 150,000 miles. Keeping this in perspective it is an R' Reg so things are bound to wear out. Till this year it had been an ultra reliable and dependable family car that covered huge numbers of miles faithfully. IF the problem proves to be the crank sensor then I'm hoping it'll cover another 150,000 miles, even if I sell it.
  22. Oh this is wierd because I am having trouble with the tailgate on my newer VVTI and it's down to a loose wire by the looks. Which door switch were you pressing ? If it is just that one then my bet is it's the switch or the wire to it that has gone. CAREFULLY undo the switch and take it out bearing in mind there is a wire attached (or should be) to the back and see if the wire is frayed. Of course if it's ANY door then have a look at the fuses , possibly the dome one which (if memory serves me right) can affect central locking.
  23. Ordered a Crank position sensor from a "national" network of breakers. It is evidently NOT the right part as it is too long. I know because I've got the timing belt covers off and it is touching the toothed wheel before the o-ring is even starting to go in the hole. The one I broke off has something stamped on the side , it reads : TOYOTA 90919-05011 029600-0211 4t15 The one they sent has TOYOTA 90919-05030 029600-0755 4f22 Does anyone know a. Which is the part number on the one I took off b. out of interest what car the sensor they have sent me belongs to. c. the one sent is dented on the face where someone has pushed it out of the housing . Would this have broken it ? Cheers, Pete.
  24. OBDII was compulsory in the US from 1996. The MK1 Avensis has a 16 pin slot but is OBD1 not OBD2. You can flash the codes from a 1998 by bridging pins . This will make the engine light flash and indicate an engine code one flash gap four flashes would be 14. Have a hunt round to see if this applies to your model as I have a feeling that OBD2 was not available on models till 2003 in the UK. 16 pin plug IS there but you can't read it on mine (1998). Hope that helps.
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