Registered Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Perfection last won the day on July 9 2018

Perfection had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

27 Excellent

About Perfection

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Toyota Model
    Verso 2.0 D4D (2010 non-DPF): Auris Hybrid (2014): Ex Yaris 1.4 (2010 DPF), replaced with Honda Jazz (2016 1.3 SE)
  • Toyota Year
  • Location
    West Midlands

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. My Toyota Verso 2.0 diesel clutch was replaced at 80k miles. The DMF was also replaced, but it wasn't worn. The clutch was slipping on mine. After the clutch and dmf was replaced, every is good as original.
  2. I think you need someone to be able to read the loading on the DPF on how blocked it is. I know you said it has been cleaned, but how certain are you that the filter is not clogged? When I had mine investigated by the Toyota dealer, they had provided me the loading values before and after the regen. It wasn't much different so they agreed that they replaced with a new DPF and that fixed the problem for another 40k miles.
  3. Ok. Can you check your engine oil level? Every time the DPF is regenerated Diesel is gets into the engine and the oil level raises. You might have excessive oil level and it could trigger the engine light. Mine came on with a spanner.
  4. The bottom line is you need a new DPF or properly cleaned by a specialist, not the sort of thinga offered by Halford. I have good experience of DPF issue. I used to have a Yaris from new and drives and drives on the motorway 95% of the times and at around 40k miles I noticed the DPF regenerate every 250miles then reduced to 30miles. This was reported to Toyota and they blamed the driving style. To cut long story short, I had a replacement and a new DPF was fitted and again when the car reached around 80k miles the same old story started again. I.e. it regenerate too often and I got rid of the car.
  5. The poster didn't say when the first sensor was replaced, did the fault cleared? He need to give more info.
  6. Make sure you have the correct part in the correct location. The heater circuit has to have the correct resistance range. The PCM checks for the current in the heater circuit.
  7. I am glad that the poster got his money back. The work carried out was not professional and it's like a cover up work. The underside doesn't look too bad for a 2007 car.
  8. I think some MOT tester may fail the inspection on the pipe if it is left as rough like using paint or grease to disgise the corrosion.
  9. To be honest you could have sand it down and use hammerite waxoly underside spray paint. I applied these to my previous RAV4 exhaust pipe and it lasted more than 18 years before the car was scrapped. I did the same with my current Toyota Verso. I paid my local garage for the ramp time and I cleaned / rub / sand visible rust and sprayed all the underside of the car. I had done it for 3 years now and I inspect it every year when it goes for MOT on the ramp and treat it again if there are any corrosion.
  10. It's look like 3 coats of paint on top of the rust! Did the person rub/sand the rust off before applying the pain to?
  11. Many years ago I had a Ford escort and the bonnet catch failed and I was traveling around 40mph and the windscreen was completely shattered and luckily no one was hurt. Whilst on this topic, I also noticed that on our current Toyota Verso bonnet catch is corroded so I have cleaned and hamerrite it with corrosion proof paint then applied plenty of grease to stop it rust again. Regarding MoT, I have never seen the tester check for the bonnet lock, catch in my 30 yrs of driving. So is this suppose to be part of their check list?
  12. Try to have the instrument cluster opened up and connect it up and power it up when you spray the freezer to look for any sign of life. BUT be careful not to short anything out.
  13. One thing you can do is to use a freezer spray and spray at the circuit board and components joint to see if it comes back to life. If it does, then you likely have confirmed there is a dry joint. You can just reheat the joint with an iron.
  14. I remember I bought one for my 2010 Yaris and it costed around £200 from dealer. So it's worth asking the price.
  15. I had the same problem on my 2010 6speed gear box at 80k miles. Transition from 1st to 2nd feel a gear clunk or bump as you described. I have replaced the oil and improved slightly. The clunk still there. What I do now is to adjust my gear engagement style. When shift from 1st to 2nd I leave the gear lever in neutral for about 1 second before I push in to 2nd. This avoid the clunk noise.