APS

If the oil was replaced in June, you don't need to replace it again. Of course, it won't do any harm, but it won't make much difference either. Make sure it is topped up. The colour is more indicative of short runs. Beyond a high biting point or slipping, they won't measure the clutch friction material at service. A long drive will do your car good. If you want to, you could replace the oil after the long drive. Then you have exactly six months to the next service.

Assuming you are asking about service life; as far as I can remember it is 10 years/100k from new, then 5 years/60k thereafter.

They have absolutely thought about this when they designed the system. It works through signal strength to determine proximity. As far as I'm aware there's no triangulation. There are low power transmitters in the front of the centre console and in the door handles. When you stand outside the car, the signal from the internal transmitter will be weaker than when you are inside. The signal from the door handle on the other hand, will be relatively stronger. A clear indicator that you are (the key is) outside the car. This will also help determine the location of the key should you hold it up at window level (glass has very low RF signal attenuation), or have the driver's door open. The boot is generally too far away from the centre console for the car to be started and will only be close to the transmitter in the boot handle. EDIT: I should have said, this is also how the car will prevent you from locking a remote key inside the car.

Out of curiosity - what model LC, year, mileage?

No, but the car won't start to begin with as you are standing outside (behind) the car. The key needs to be inside the car for it to start.

I'd leave them open. You want water to drain and the door to dry out as easily as possible.

Good to have you here Watkins. Assuming your MR2 is not a 2021 year model? (as per your profile)

Not tried them but that seems very reasonable. Considering it's been a while since you posted this, do you have an update? Did you rebuild it?

Try relevant FB groups.

Watch the video, assess if it's something you'd be capable of doing (consider space and tools, not just skills and time). Get quotes from other places to compare with. Shouldn't be a huge job.

Yes, looks like it is. YT video here

It's not pretty, but pretty funky looking 🤩 It's nice to see them pushing out braver designs. I'm a sucker for the rear lights with the backlit logo. It's all a bit 80's Bladerunner-esque.

The new app use the same user credentials as MyT but has none of my registered vehicles. That to me is a non-starter right there. If it can't tap in to the existing system, it should say so and explain why. This just seems like a hobby project by someone at Toyota and I won't bother. When compared to apps from the likes of BMW, Toyota/Lexus is so far behind. They should really take note and put some effort behind this.

I'd default to Thule as their products are usually among the best. I've had very good experience with their products so far. Looking at their site they don't list a version for Mirai but I've seen users commenting on them using Thule roof bar for their Mirai. Someone mentioned using Thule's Evo clamp kit 5082. You could also contact Thule direct to check what they recommend.

From what I recall it IS a question of replacing the headlight unit. There was a thread on here a while ago with some further explorations and alternative fixes.

API standards >> Check source

[posting this in the Aygo forum even though it isn't really model specific - Admin feel free to move as you see fit] I know many have discussed and considered using Lanoguard so I thought I'd give it a go on our 2014 2nd gen and share the process and outcome. The process is pretty straightforward: Get the car in the air, and the wheels off Pressure wash everything on the underside Poke, scrape, and wire brush off any loose rust. Let the car dry (best done by putting wheels back on, lower, and take for a spin) Apply the thick grease version of Lanoguard to the rustiest areas, nuts, bolts, seam welds. The grease needs heating to turn it liquid so you can brush it on. This is a bit of a PITA at this time of the year since the grease hardens as soon as you brush it on to cold metal. Likewise, the grease in the tub starts solidifying pretty quickly at these temperatures (about 7˚C). Probably better to do this when it's a bit warmer outside. Spray in cavities using the spray wand/lance I found that the lance doesn't produce a mist but essentially sprays mostly in two, opposite directions. This means you need to spray while rotating and going back and forth. Seems like you waste a bit of fluid doing this. Finally, spray everything with the thinner Lanoguard fluid. Very easy. Avoiding brake discs and any engine belts. Exhaust is OK. It just evaporates I found out. Before and after photos... Dirty Cleaned Treated Dirty Cleaned and treated Close up You can see the thick grease around the suspension arm bolt head, and brake unions. The brake unions had grease on them previously. Before After The lanolin forms a waxy coating that works on the principle of soaking the substrate and repelling moisture. You know how old cars never rusted around the engine and gearbox where it leaked and constantly soaked the surrounding bodywork in oil - this is like a deliberate version of that. Just stickier and all over the place. The process is a little messy. Particularly when you inject cavities since it starts dripping out of various places. Including on top of you. In the end, both the car and you will smell like a sheep farm - for that rustic country side feeling. Now the car needs to stand for a few days. We'll have to see how it fares over the course of a year.

The sad truth is that in the insurance algorithms, your spotless record is completely outweighed by your age. Once you pass retirement age (i.e. mid-60's) premiums start to climb. As far as I'm aware, there is no test you can do either, to prove your physical and mental fitness to insurance companies.

Sounds like a leaking slave / actuator cylinder. It sits on the bell housing and disengages the clutch when you press the clutch pedal. It could be the hydraulic line that connects the cylinder that's leaking. Take a look at your invoice to see if they've listed what they've changed.

Providing you have windscreenwash mixed, bottle placement makes little difference when it's cold. The problem is in the spray nozzles (there's a reason Volvo puts heaters in them). You need to have a strong mixture. I mix for -20 or so to cope with just a few degrees below freezing. To clear frozen over headlights you can pour undiluted windscreen wash on the lights.

It is a problem that manufacturers have been dodging for a while. When it's cold there just isn't enough heat given off to defrost the lights. It can also stop adaptive headlights from working. They may very well come up with heated headlights for cars sold in colder climates. Here in the UK I tend to just use the windscreen/headlight washers to clear them since I always have a strong mix during the winter season.

The HVAC controls on the mk1 are SO superior to the mk2. Big, chunky, clear, and intuitive. Backlit by a single bulb. Genius! <apologies for topic drift>

I think someone on the design team go the wrong end of the stick and rather than building a drain into the access hatch, they put it in the brake light 🙂

Ah! Got it. It's a Yaris. I guess "Luna Sport" is a grade label they use across multiple models.

Is that a Corolla in a Luna Sport grade? Oh, and welcome to the club!!