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APS

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Everything posted by APS

  1. First of all, I'm assuming you are talking about the car in your profile, a '92 Camry? Are you saying it's stalling, or maybe almost stalling? Is this while idling or while moving (coasting or braking?)? Is it manual or auto? Give us more details.
  2. Would be useful with a more detailed description. You say you can hear it when breaking. Is it a single knock? Or repeated? If repeated, does it change in proportion to vehicle speed? If it's repeating, it could be your brake discs or it could be drive shafts. If it's a single knock then more likely a joint (rod end: inner or outer)
  3. I'm assuming this only happens after running the engine (driving) long enough for it to warm up properly? Or does it happen more or less as soon as you start the engine? What does the temp gauge in the car read when the coolant is escaping? Is it above normal? Does the cooling fan come on? What you are seeing could happen if the engine overheats. Photo's or video would be helpful.
  4. As far as I know, the Honda 2.2 i-DTEC (N22B - euro 5) is a tried and tested unit with good characteristics. Those I know who've had one did not have any problems.
  5. APS

    Dipstick

    The 1NZ-FE engines with plastic dipsticks have crosshatching.
  6. And include all observations you've made. What makes you believe it escapes through the expansion vessel? Is it bubbling? How quickly does it disappear?
  7. +1 on Toyota bad experiences and two different VW dealerships. Lexus has always served us well ...so far I'm not sure sales reps realise how big a difference they can make to customers' experience and eventual decision.
  8. That's a really nice selection of colours. Plus, only the Trueno blue and Steel grey get diamond cut rims. The rest are normal, solid colour. Thumbs up from me!
  9. Yeah, that's worrying as this is not something that develops over a single year. Looking at the corrosion in your photo I stand by my first assessment that this is caused by acidic corrosion - probably a result of a combination of sea salt and road salt. The pitting that's shown on the vertical part of the suspension arm is typical. I bet if you hammer at it, it will feel pretty solid but eventually break off revealing black rust. I'm sure it's perfectly fixable. But I can also imagine that all the nuts and bolts may also be quite nicely stuck, making the work that little bit extra "enjoyable". Keep us posted.
  10. Wow! Not seen one with actual holes in it. Are you near the coast perhaps? The salt in the air can be exceptionally aggressive. I once bought a car with low miles that had lived not far from the coast and you didn't need a prop for the bonnet as the hinges were so seized up! Anyway, those torsion beams can hold dirt and moisture which accelerates the rot. I'm sure there are plenty of second hand ones. I don't think it's a 'known issue'.
  11. It's so easy to overthink these choices. You seem to have a fairly clear idea of what you want. Just get what's available within your budget where you are. Both mk1 and mk2 are good cars that can be had in fairly basic spec.
  12. OK - I'll be that Mr Killjoy. Nothing that's legal will significantly improve your headlights. I've tried all the increased light output ones like the Osram Night Breakers, Philips, Halfords etc.. At best they make a small improvement. But it's hardly like night and day difference and, as you say, they don't last. Not half as long as a standard bulb. Standard bulbs and keep your lights clean. You can add on some extra lights (rally style). But they will only be of any use if you can do part of your journey on high beam.
  13. Moved away from the Lexus specific Yokohama's on the CT200 a couple of years go and put Michelin CrossClimate on all four corners. Best upgrade I've done to that car. Great all-round, all-year tyre. Much better, steering feel and a quieter drive compared to the Yokohama's. Good grip in the wet too. Oh, and they're cheaper (not cheap).
  14. Regarding rust; From my experience it's pretty good and mostly plagued the earlier year cars. I'll let this photo of the underside of our 2003 T-Sport (Japan built) speak for itself. One lady owner, daily driver, never garaged.
  15. I don't think it warrants any angry letters... yet. These are computer systems and as such may 'crash' or lock up from time to time. You've done the right thing to note down what you did. Should it happen again, make another note of what you did. Whether you should report this or not is really a matter of frequency and how much it interferes with driving. An in-car system that locks up once a year or less, you can probably live with. But, if it's every other journey, then definitely blow the angry horn. Keep your notes so you can pass them on to Toyota should it be required.
  16. We've tried several. Halfords appear to be good quality, waterproof and long-lasting. It has a felt inside to protect the paintwork. Currently on sale too. https://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-accessories/car-covers-tarpaulins/halfords-all-seasons-car-cover-m-268806.html
  17. Ohh, the dreaded oil topic 🙂 First of all, by the looks of your profile I'm assuming you are talking about a Corolla T Sport with the 2ZZ engine? The C3 grade could be used but it's a low SAPS, catalyst 'compatible' oil. I'd stay with A/B grade. Viscosity is more important. Stay with 5w30 it's fine. If you do track days or drive harder, increase the warm viscosity and go with something like 5w40. But, more importantly, make sure you change the oil regularly.
  18. Here's the link to the same article without the marketing tracking: https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/analysis-can-new-toyota-aygo-x-save-cheap-city-car In its announcement of its electrified lineup, Toyota did include a small electrified city car. However, they also made it very clear that it would sacrifice range over weight, to make it more efficient. This means that the small Aygo can serve suburban customers who also need a car to venture a bit further, beyond the city limits. Personally, I'm no fan (at all) of high riding cross-overs or SUVs, but this is what sells nowadays. So, it makes sense from a business perspective. It's quite impressive that Toyota has the clout to go it alone and continue to pursue the A-segment.
  19. Yes - I did no go to LED but stayed with filament.
  20. I doubt any Toyota engine made (designed) in the last 15 years have a belt (is there is one, I'd be curious to know). It's all chain nowadays. The hybrid engines definitely are all chain driven.
  21. Update: I've now replaced the two bulbs in the HVAC controls. It's a straightforward job that doesn't really require any tools. You may want to use some needle nose pliers to twist and remove the bulbs. Otherwise everything is just snap-in plastics. Even the control wires. The bulbs are T509s and can be sourced from Halfords. Note; These bulbs appear to have no clear standard reference and may be sold as T5 286/ 509T / 206T / 286TC / B8.5D - depending on whether they refer to the bulb size, holder type or size. If I find the time, I may post some photos of how to do this. As I mentioned, it's quite easy.
  22. Hi all, Has anyone replaced the bulbs for the heating and AC controls in the Aygo? The illumination for the HVAC controls in our 2014 Aygo has partially died. I've pulled off the front cover and loosened the contrlols, but they are still attached by the control wires, which makes it harder to access. Before I start pulling things to bits further and risk breaking something, I'd appreciate any tips from someone who's already done this. YouTube only seem to have videos for the mk1.
  23. Following this. Seems to be a distinct lack of info on this topic. @Ian J R If it's of any comfort, you appear to at least have a newer 'Audio' version than I do (0810) in our 2014 Aygo. OS is the same though.
  24. Why would it not adjust? Have you maxed out the adjustment? If the clutch isn't slipping, badly juddering, and the release bearing is reasonably quiet, then keep driving. We've done 85k in our newer Aygo and clutch shows no sign of giving up. I do not expect having to replace it in the near future.
  25. What about the software updates, do they also need to be done vie the SD card? I know this was not the original question of this thread but, I'm curious as there appear to be a mechanism to perform updates built-in to the interface.
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