Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Registered Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by celicacity

  1. I'm sure I have one, I'll check my store at the weekend. Is it just the actual lock mechanism that bolts into the end of the door, or do you want the whole thing complete with interior release?
  2. 8valve Twin-Cam from TA22GT or TA23GT, any condition considered, provided it's capable of being revived and not a rusty collection of broken bits. Thanks
  3. I've got one. Its rare, especially if its an early round headlight model. Check the rear arches, sills and under the the fuel filler door. Tailgate (front and back edge), doors (top and bottom) and bonnet front edge, front valance, bottom of wings, under the rear hatch rubber seal. They don't rust that much structurally, and engine compartment/inner wing/floor pan rust is almost unheard of. That's about it. Sills are hard to get hold of, but are relatively easy to have made up. Rear arches can be had for a price if you know where to look, same for wings, bonnets, doors, hatches. Rear valances are near impossible to find. If it's a late model, check the headlight housings, as the chrome retaining rings are spring loaded shut and after 25 or 30 years, they're starting to break. Mechanically they're dull but almost bullet-proof, but the engine (18R) needs leaded fuel......An 18R-G twin-cam conversion is virtually a drop-in operation, requiring some rewiring and a new throttle set-up and that's unleaded too. Finding one in good order is another matter. Wheels should be 14 inch Alloys, but with a 4.5 inch /114.5mm PCD, there's no problem with finding something else if you don't like 'em. Interior trim is unique to the XT and early models differ from late models. I've three pic of any early XT and a late one, with a pic of the (unique to) XT door trim just for fun. Enjoy!
  4. my main gripe is the dreadful lack of interest from Toyota in probably the oldest Toyota in Dorset still left in daily use, As the guys have pointed out, Toyota GB and its dealers are sales focused - if you don't want a new car at regular intervals, most dealers don't want to know. However, if you had asked questions on the board BEFORE getting rid of the car, you might just have found what you needed, without all the moaning and whinging. Geoff, the parts manager at Autobase Bristol is interested and knowledgeable when to comes to vintage Toyotas. Failing that there are a number of 'networks' out there who if they don't have what you want, might just know someone who does. And Oldest Toyota in Dorset still in daily use? You should get out more - oh, you can't now can you.
  5. Well, the 18R-G is probably best as its the easiest & probably cheapest way to bring a smile to your face....good choice! This was supposed to be a hobby I started to off-set the stresses of my day job. Every car I have completed brings more phone calls and emails and at this point, working evenings and weekends, I have enough work booked to keep me occupied until November/December. After that, assuming no more work is booked in, (fat chance) I have a yard with another 18 elderly Celicas (and a Levin) of my own to work on. Bored I am not. Still working on getting pictures posted somewhere...this site doesn't make it easy...
  6. OK Apologies for the long silence - spending 6 hours in a 22GT going to and from Castle Coombe last weekend left me with a trapped nerve in my back - I could stand up and lie down, but sitting in front of a computer has not been a possibility, until now. And it was the car journey, not, as some have suggested, leaping from the wardrobes / mantlepiece / fireplace in a moment of unbridled passion. That was last Christmas. Anyhow, alternative engines. I am currently preparing a TA22 to receive a 4-AGZE - fits right in, no problems. I also have an upcoming project to fit a Rover Vitesse V8 into an unsuspecting TA23. The engine currently lives in a TA22, but it's a very tight fit. The extra room in a 23 (or 28) will make it a much more practical proposition. There are other engines - 3T-GTE, 1G-EU etc which will fit, but finding them is another matter. M series engines from MA60/MA70 Supras can be made to fit which much fiddling around (radiators in the boot and so on), and even the twin turbo unit from the JZA80s can be made to fit, but only if you want to rebuild the front of the car. The only problem with the latter is that it is pretty much uncharted waters, and you may just end up paying a lot of money for something that might be a dog to drive - it may be more satisfying to just buy a JZA80. The 18R-G will run on unleaded, as will all early Celica engines except the SOHC 18R, which lacks the necessary hardened valve seats. As for Castle Coombe, the only unusual things there where Chris, Me, Chris's 22GT and a rather fine white TA23 which was 4 cars ahead in the queue to get in. Despite the queues, the hale, not meeting anyone else from the TOC, the police and spending 2 hours in the wrong car park, it was a great day. There was some very interesting stuff happening on the track - Manic Starlet, 240Zs etc, and lots of interesting stuff to look at on the stands and in the car parks, once you got past 4 million Subarus. As soon as we parked up in the right place, lots of people, including Banzai magazine, took a shine to the 22 and took lots of pictures, asking us penetrating questions like 'Wotisit then?' No one under 25 believed it was a Celica (there was nearly a fight at one point, because as we all know, Celicas are front wheel drive....) and called us 'Yo, Retro Duuuuuudes!' which we got used to in the end. Many thanks to Steve for the Stand Pass. Finally, I have taken pictures of the 28 and various other projects that are under way, and as soon as I can figure out how to post them somewhere, I will!
  7. The standard UK 22ST has the 2T-B engine with two Aisan twin-choke down-draught carbs, so yes. Good luck!
  8. It's usually known as a backing plate or sometimes, a dust guard.
  9. Well, the 18R-G has limited possibilities compared to a more modern unit, but you can start by changing the cams and using Webers instead of the standard Mikini-Solex (the advantage is that a greater range of jets are available for the Weber). After that its valves, pistons, timing gear etc - its all basic engineering, bolting bits on - (No ECUs here....) A good 18R-G should be good for up to 200BHP before they become high-maintenance. If you want more power than that you would be better off investing in a different engine. I've never put a screen in a 28, but I'd welcome the challenge - the dash is a true mid 70s slab of plastic wood and well, plastic, but there are possibilites with the glove box or centre console! Both cars are that b#o#dy awful insipid yellow at present - the plan is to respray both in a strong chrome yellow, but of course it can be anything you want. anything now
  10. Both cars have been stripped and welded throughout, both have new sills (gen Toyota) and new rear arches, the 22 has a new rear panel. Good interiors have been sourced and the RA28 has a 18R-G and P51 box ready to go in, whilst the 22 is waiting for a 2T-B rebuild. Replacement panels are being prepared now, and both shells need preparing and painting. Both are rolling, but I will be stripping and rebuilding both front and rear suspensions before letting them go. On the downside - the 22 has a webasto roof which needs restoring, but I havn't made up my mind to do that or to put in a new roof. If you wanted different engines, particular colour or even a choice of interiors in the case of the 22 it can be done! I will post .jpgs but I have a busy weekend coming - Castle Coombe etc, so please be patient.
  11. I have an RA28 and a TA22 shell which I am currently building up, neither have homes to go to when they're finished.... Let me know if you're interested.
  12. What you have is a standard RA61, but a very early car. There are plenty of pictures on the web and the version with the covered lights is just a facelift. On an X plate it would have been amongst the very first RA61s into the UK, and as the UK got the first cars off the line, it may well have a very low chassis number, possibly even be an ex-Toyota demonstrator. Either way it's a rare survivor and worth fixing. Haynes do a manual - number 1135, which regularly appears on eBay for not much. Good Luck.
  13. The entire front end from the screen forward is different apart from the inner wings up to and including the strut tops. You will need to rework the scuttle, cut off everything forward of the struts and replace it, fit new wings, radiator, bonnet, grill, headlight baffle panels, front valence, bumpers, bumper irons and lights. Please, just buy a late model...
  14. Should be no problem, Toyota reliability was already a legend when the 28 came along - I run a '76 TA23GT as a daily driver. Parts are mostly OK - if you can't get service items and mechanical parts from Toyota, there is a network of people who can find the more difficult stuff for you. Just don't ask for doors or a tailgate.....
  15. I have an RA28 which is under restoration and should be finished around Feb/March next year. The shell has been stripped, new sills/ arches fitted and is currently awaiting final finishing and fitting before painting. Let me know if you're interested.
  16. Most went to the US but there is at least one in the UK - a red one was at JAE 2004 on the Saturday morning!
  17. Thats just coincidence! The 1600 ST 13" wheels had black centres, whilst the 14" wheels had red ones....
  18. All the caps I have seen for these wheels have a had a red laquer finish in the centre, which seems to have worn quite quickly, leaving just plain alloy. if yours are blue, then chances are they're not original.
  19. No problem The reason I was interested in the reg is that the 'S' reg cars where usually dealer models and differ from all the other 40s in some of the small details, like having the word LIFTBACK on the panel between the front and rear windows, instead of CELICA. Celicas usually took 5 - 9 months to get to the UK by sea, but the first 40 series where flown in, which means that they got here before the last 23s and 28s, which is why you see 'S' reg 40s and 'T' plate 23s and 28s! There are very few left in really good condition, so its good to hear of another survivor. Be interesting to find out whcih dealer it came from.
  20. TA40 Celica coupes share the rear brake parts (unless you've got a GT in which case the shoes are a harder compound. I bought a set of wheel cylinders just before Christmas for my 40 with no problems, maybe your factor isn't trying hard enough - the Blue Print part numbers are:- Rear Shoes ADT34102 Cylinders ADT34403 '77 is early for a 40 - is it 'S' reg?
  21. I've no idea on price yet, but if I can't produce them at a price people will pay I'll be wasting my time, so it won't be silly. And yes I am looking at reproducing wings and other panels as well as arches and spoilers. The easiest way to cure the understeer problem is to uprate the springs to the max - ie the car doesn't move, let alone bounce, when you lean on the wing! It should make the car very uncomfortable to drive, but it doesn't - the ride is firm but very acceptable and understeer comes in much later on hard cornering. Add adjustable shocks to the rear, renew the rear axle bushes and it will work very well with stock or near-stock engines. Next route is to fit AE86 front struts, which gives you vented discs as well - you just need to swap the top plates, the rest fits right in. If you intend to run serious bhp, AE86 brakes won't do - MA61 Celica Supra struts will fit, but you will need to adapt bottom arms and control rods. replacing the !Removed! awful steering with a rack also helps considerably - Mk2 Cavaliers area very close fit although again if you're running huge rubber, you may need something stronger.
  22. Thats two Celicas and two Corollas. I've posted three more RAC pictures in the Misc. Gallery pages 112 & 113. The first is the Anderson/Phillips car from 72 or 73, the second is another from 75 whilst the third is an RA20 (not TA22 as I called it) from 76. I have original TRD fibreglass arches for 22/23/28s along with front and rear spoilers. If there's enough interest I will make some reproductions this June/July. The only problem with the arches is that there's plenty of room under there already, so you need 7"- 8" wheels just to fill them! Marcus
  23. The most comprehensive site for early Celica types - right down to individual chassis number production dates is - http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/stepho/ Good luck! Marcus
  24. Its been sat in various garages for around ten years, but the bores where filled with redex before it was stored and it has been turned over every six - nine months or so since. I'd want £100 for it. If thats too much I do have another which is in an RA28 I bought for spares, so I'm not so sure of its condition other than it does turn over freely - you can have it for £40. Marcus
  • Create New...