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anchorman

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anchorman last won the day on June 1 2018

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About anchorman

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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Don
  • Contributor
    5
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    RAV 4 SR 2.2 D4D 150 in Decuma Grey and Daihatsu Sirion 2008 with Yaris mechanics.
  • Toyota Year
    2012
  • Location
    Derbyshire

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  1. Anchorman... hows it going... you still about with the old Rav4 crew or have we all dispersed over the years?

  2. Hi anchorman, just joined up, and new to this, recently bought 2007 RAV4 XT5 2.2D-4D, with 3 months warranty on it, I picked out a few problems with it mainly starting after standing overnight, which has been sorted under warranty from sales garage, the other one I noticed and have read about this morning is slight knocking at slow speed turning left and right, (indications are intermediate steering shafts) which the garage I bought it off and gave warranty cover with the sale are saying it’s not covered, only engine is covered, but are willing to fix it at a cost, I don’t have much in way of detail with warranty other than verbally and can’t find out to much on their website either, only had the car a week or two when I notified them of problems, it was supplied with full mot and vehicle check before the sale, so I wrongly presumed it was a fairly good buy. Any advice I’d appreciate thanks in advance. J

    1. anchorman

      anchorman

      Hi JIm

       

      I don’t have that much to do with RAV4s now but my mate Rob Mears does.  You can send him a pm on this Facebook page;

       

      https://www.facebook.com/groups/986641494788704/

       

      I hope you get sorted.

       

      REgards

       

      Don.

    2. J keeper

      J keeper

      Cheers don, bear it it mind, surprisingly during the course of the day the dealer has sorted the problem under warranty, so fair do’s to them 👍

  3. Have you a diagram/ info to help replace a parking sensor on rear of my 3 door RAV4 55

    I can feel the wires and some joker had twisted the supply wires together and covered it in tape. 
    looking to remove duff one and make off connections or run new harness etc. 
    what’s best. 
    problem is really access. 
    thanks

  4. Hi Anchorman 

    55 old shape rav4. Do you know the air gap setting for the ac compressor clutch?

    thanks

  5. Hi Anchorman, I've just bought a 2005 2.0 d4d rav and could do with some advise. It drove fine and pulled well but the other day the engine management light came on and it went into limp mode, i switched it off for a couple of mins and restarted it and it drove fine again but the mil light stayed on. I've had the codes read and it came up with "P1251 Step motor for turbocharger control circuit ( intermittent)" I erased  the fault and it came back on again, iv checked the vacuum to the turbo actuator and that seems fine but have noticed a slight whistle at 2000rpm.

    Any help would be appreciated, many thanks

  6. Hello Anchorman. Thank you for all the advice that you have provided us here. I really need your help as an experienced mechanic.

    I own a 2007 Rav4. 2.2 l diesel engine. 2AD-FTV.

    It has these symptoms.

    We cleaned the EGR valve and the intake manifold. The manifold had signs of oil in it. When we used a carbon cleaner for the intake valves,the mechanic told me that the turbocharger was blowing oil. Since the car was working fine,I planned to check the turbo after the vacations. I did around 200 km without any kind of problems but what I did notice was the last 100. When my RPM was around 1200-2200 and when i was driving in a mauntin road,I saw a loooot of fumes coming out from my tailpipe grey to blak (dont know if this is the correct word). Over 2200 rpm and in normal conditiones there is no smoke visible from my mirrors. I stoped the car at the hotel and after the engine was cold i checked the level of the oil and the antifrize. Oil level was ok,or slightly lower,probably less than 100 ml. But for my surprize i found oil in my antifrize reservoir. It was not a lot. Also in the cap of the reservour i found traces of milky oil (I know,probably head gasket)

    My questions are:

    1.Since the fumes/gases are only when turbo is suposed to work and it seems that i don't have anymore the power of the turbo when accelerating are these signs of a blown turbo?

    2.is it possible that i have not a blown headgasket ,just the oil cooler mixing oil with antifrize? (A friend of mine had the same symptom once at it was its oil cooler)

     

    I live in Albania/europe and to be honest I don't think that here we can do a compression test. Also the mechanics tends to rip off. Even if it was just the headgasket and the turbo,i would finish paying for a lot of other things.

    Thank you man,for your time.

    Endri

     

  7. 4.1 Items TIMING BELT.pdf Front Suspension; FRONT SUSPENSION.pdf Rear Suspension; REAR SUSPENSION.pdf Brakes; brakes.pdf Wiring Diagrams; WIRING.pdf General Maintenance; MAINTENANCE.pdf Heater; HEATER.pdf Centre (3rd) Diff; CENTER DIFFERENTIAL LOCK.pdf Charging System; charging.pdf Replace 5th gear - see 4.2 section ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- General/Misc it
  8. Oh sorry, I think you asked me about this before. The transfer box and the rear diff is done every second service or intervals of 20k miles. There is no requirement to change the oil in the box, one of these sealed for life jobbies. However, I will do mine about every 4th year. Use only the proper 75 grade oil and sit down before paying for it. I always take off the undershield to do the transmission oil. Take the plug out of the transfer box and let it drain (green circle). Don't bother with the level plug, there is a filler plug high up (blue arrow) which is easier to get at;
  9. Difficulty - Medium Time - about 90 minutes Tools required - 12mm socket and spanner (various extentions etc). Flat blade screwdriver. Pliers. It is easier done off ramps or over a pit and the rest of the text assumes that the sump tray has been removed. Parts (supplied by Kingo); 45221-42080 - £143.60 inc VAT and delivery You may also need a new clip for the bottom of the steering column boot; 90460-64003 - £6 inc VAT and delivery These prices are of August 2012 and could change with time but it will give you a feel for the cost. Introduction Some
  10. Difficulty - Medium Time - Allow 60 minutes per side. Tools required - A pair of 8mm bolts, screwdriver, spring release tool (can be manufactured), some coppergrease or HM grease and a selection of usual mechanics tools. Introduction Most 4.2 and 4.3 RAVs employ a rear disc brake and combine a drum parking brake into the design. The rear disc brake (foot brake) is a simple single piston design with a reacting bridge to the outer pad. In this design, when the inner pad touches the disc and cannot move any further, the outer pad is applied when the bridge is slid along guide pins with an equ
  11. I was recently reminded by our good friend Fujisan that as some 4.3s will be due for the first MOT this year that it might be a good idea to review this subject and I will pin it for future use. The VSC is such that if you use conventional means to test the brakes (brake roller tester with one wheel being tested at a time) it will pick that up as the vehicle out of control as one wheel is turning and three are not. The system cannot detect that the vehicle is stationary because there is a speed sensor on each wheel (used for vehicle speed detection rather than ABS operation - very unusual
  12. I was recently reminded by our good friend Fujisan that as some 4.3s will be due for the first MOT this year that it might be a good idea to review this subject and I will pin it for future use. The VSC is such that if you use conventional means to test the brakes (brake roller tester with one wheel being tested at a time) it will pick that up as the vehicle out of control as one wheel is turning and three are not. The system cannot detect that the vehicle is stationary because there is a speed sensor on each wheel (used for vehicle speed detection rather than ABS operation - very unusual
  13. Difficulty - Easy Time - about 5 minutes Tools - Small screwdriver, coin or similar implement Parts - 2016 battery (98p from Screwfix) Introduction The battery in the key should be changed periodically (not more than 2 years) and this tutorial shows how to conduct this easy job. Procedure Remove any key rings and use a small screwdriver to open the outer case in the slot provided as shown; Now use the same screwdriver to carefully prize the battery module out of the outer casing; Set aside the outer casing and use a coin or similar impleme
  14. Difficulty - Easy Time - about 45 minutes. Frequency - 10,000 miles or 12 Months Tools required - 14mm socket and ratchet with extension bar. Filter wrench (examples shown below). Drain container. Jug or measure to re-fill oil. If you decide to remove the sump shield you will need the 10mm socket and a trim tool or screwdriver to pop out the fixing studs. A phillips screwdriver to remove the clips in the access flaps. A torque wrench if you have one. Parts - 5.9 litres of 5W/30 Semi Synthetic oil (I paid £12.97+VAT for 5 litres). I only use Morris's oil; http://ww
  15. In addition to the information supplied in the owner's manual, here is some information on the vehicle jacking points for the RAV 4.3. Please remember: Don't jack up a heavily loaded vehicle. If you're removing a heavy part (e.g. engine), the centre of gravity of the vehicle is likely to shift as you do it. Don't work under a vehicle just supported by the jack - it's not worth the risk. Use correctly placed wheel chocks if appropriate. Above all, always follow the appropriate safety precautions. If you have side steps fitted, there is some information on
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