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Everything posted by anchorman

  1. 4.1 Items TIMING BELT.pdf Front Suspension; FRONT SUSPENSION.pdf Rear Suspension; REAR SUSPENSION.pdf Brakes; brakes.pdf Wiring Diagrams; WIRING.pdf General Maintenance; MAINTENANCE.pdf Heater; HEATER.pdf Centre (3rd) Diff; CENTER DIFFERENTIAL LOCK.pdf Charging System; charging.pdf Replace 5th gear - see 4.2 section ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- General/Misc items SERVICE DATA SHEETS Uploading A New Avatar Image chatman Auto (ignition) Door Locking, This Procedure Worked. prince Uploading Pictures Into Forum Topics, Adding Pictures to Topics... chatman Clean Engine Bay anchorman How to tint windows andyf3854 Charlie Farlie's guide to machine polishing Charlie Farlie
  2. Oh sorry, I think you asked me about this before. The transfer box and the rear diff is done every second service or intervals of 20k miles. There is no requirement to change the oil in the box, one of these sealed for life jobbies. However, I will do mine about every 4th year. Use only the proper 75 grade oil and sit down before paying for it. I always take off the undershield to do the transmission oil. Take the plug out of the transfer box and let it drain (green circle). Don't bother with the level plug, there is a filler plug high up (blue arrow) which is easier to get at; 0.45 litres of GL5 80W/90 You might find one of these useful; OK, if you do choose to change the gearbox oil you need to remove the drain plug; Then the filler plug; But don't try to fill it through the front unless you have the above pump as you can't tip normal oil bottles up. Instead, take off the small access panel under the wing (2 clips) and fill from under there. It only takes 2.1 litres; OK now round the back of the vehicle and take out the drain plug (green circle - passenger side). Because of the internal clutch this will come out filthy; Now round to the drivers side and take out the level plug (blue circle). Fill with 0.55 litres of GL5 80W/90 and you will see why one of those pumps is a good investment - it is very awkward with an oil bottle!; PLEASE NOTE:- 2009 on models should use SX API GL5 85W/90 for the transfer box and diff' according to the data sheets. The only place I've managed to find this is from Toyota themselves.
  3. Difficulty - Medium Time - about 90 minutes Tools required - 12mm socket and spanner (various extentions etc). Flat blade screwdriver. Pliers. It is easier done off ramps or over a pit and the rest of the text assumes that the sump tray has been removed. Parts (supplied by Kingo); 45221-42080 - £143.60 inc VAT and delivery You may also need a new clip for the bottom of the steering column boot; 90460-64003 - £6 inc VAT and delivery These prices are of August 2012 and could change with time but it will give you a feel for the cost. Introduction Some RAVs suffer with a clunk when turning the steering wheel. The US guys refer to it as a "popping noise" but the ones I have come across have a definite clunk that can be heard more at low speed and curiously sometimes more going backwards. At the same time as the clunk you get the feel of it in the steering wheel. This is the car we worked on. A European diesel engined variant belonging to Bramley (access underneath may be different on the US gasoline engined variants); The problem was identified some time ago as the "steering intermediate shaft" and this called for No 1 and No 2 shaft to be replaced. These are precision parts and are not cheap. However, the latest instructions call for only the No 1 shaft to be replaced. This image shows the parts we are talking about. This is the new No 1 shaft alongside the old; This is the clip; In the UK there have been two bulletins on this subject but the latest shows that the part number has been changed once again following a slight change to the internal dimensions of No 1 shaft. Here is that bulletin; New steering TSB.pdf You can see that the changes are shown as a reduced internal diameter and swing range. Quite what the swing range is, I'm not sure but it could be something that is lost in translation between Japanese and English. I can tell you that visually there is very little difference between the two parts but there is no doubt that it cures the problem. The steering on our donor car is "as quiet as the grave" with the new part fitted. If you have already fitted one of the earlier revisions, don't feel that you have to replace it with this new part. My 2010 RAV is actually fitted with an earlier version and is not a problem. It is worth remembering that if you get a clunk within the warranty period that TGB will change the part FOC. There is no recall because the fault does not represent a safety issue. If you have the clunk but are broke or it doesn't bother you then simply leave it for another day. Procedure I did this off ramps out in the sunshine. There is a bit of preparation necessary before you start. It is vital that the steering wheel isn't turned while the shaft is disconnected. This is to avoid damaging the so called "clock spring" connection to the steering wheel air bag. I achieved this by using one of my big woodworking clamps fixed gently to the steering wheel and it rested under nothing more than its own weight onto the centre console (US guys will obviously be working backwards); For fine alignment the steering wheel hub was lined up with the switch cowl as shown here; OK, now ready to start proper. Inside the car, peel back the carpet to gain access to the lower column cover. It is held on with 2 finger tight plastic nuts; The cover is split to pull back over the shaft. With that removed you can see the clamp bolt that holds No 2 shaft to No 1. Use a 12mm socket to remove the bolt. The shaft can now be slid upwards. If it is stuck, just tap a stubby screwdriver or small chisel into the slot then wriggle it up. Move the shaft to one side; The boot (described as the steering column hole cover in the bulletin) needs unclipping next. Just ease the clip in the direction of the green arrow to release the bottom then slide it in the direction of the orange arrow to unhook it from the bulkhead; Now from under the car, reach up to remove the clip from the rubber boot. I will show you more about the clip later but to remove it, just use a screwdriver to gently ease the outer coil outwards. It will click and relax as the tension comes off; Now push the boot upwards, all the time bending and twisting it to ease it over the No 1 shaft; I used a dab of paint to just mark the position of the shaft. I used silver when red would have been better for you to see as the flash has bleached it out. It isn't vital that you get it back on exactly the same spline but it wants to be near to line the bolts up properly; I had trouble getting a socket to the bottom bolt but was able to get a spanner in to undo it. You can get your hand around the side of the subframe to help get a bit of force on it; With the bolt out you can push the shaft off the steering rack. Now we can look at the parts. The only damage I could see to the shaft was some corrosion and fretting of the spline. This doesn't tally with the TSB which talks about the inner spline but as far as I could see, it looked OK in there; Moving on to the stainless steel clip, you must fit a new one if the original is damaged. Do not be tempted to use a tie wrap or a hose clip for the sake of £6. This clip will stop water from entering the cabin if you wade the car to anywhere near the maximum of 500mm (20 inches). This special clip exerts even pressure over the whole circumference. I have seen in the past that it has outwitted some "techy's" and has been left off. Just to show you how it works I have shown how to set it. Using a pair of pliers, squeeze the clip gently on the two protrusions as shown by my trust assistant; The sections will slide in and click as you can see on this comparison. If you can't resist fiddling and set it in error just use a small screwdriver to unlatch it and then put it down before you do any more damage!!! What is important is that you fit it over the boot now as you will be really fed up if you fit the new shaft and then find you have forgotton it - it can't go on after. Start building it up. Put the No 1 shaft onto the steering rack making sure the spline is aligned with the paint mark and tighten the bolt. Next feed the boot complete with the clip over the shaft and manoeuvre down intil it engages the boss. There is a hole to help you align it. Set the clip with pliers as shown above. Go inside the car and fit the top of the boot. It hooks onto the body at the top then just pull it back until it clicks at the bottom. Now wriggle the No 2 shaft back down onto the No 1 shaft. As soon as it engages, check that the steering wheel hasn't moved. Push the shaft right down until you can feed the bolt into the hole and tighten it up. The torque for both clamp bolts is 35 Nm (25 ft/lbs). There is no way that I could get a torque wrench to the bottom one but you might if you have suitable universal socket joints. Feed the cover over the shaft and fix it finger tight with the two plastic nuts. Put the carpet back and remove the clamp from the steering wheel. Go underneath and replace the sump shield.
  4. Difficulty - Medium Time - Allow 60 minutes per side. Tools required - A pair of 8mm bolts, screwdriver, spring release tool (can be manufactured), some coppergrease or HM grease and a selection of usual mechanics tools. Introduction Most 4.2 and 4.3 RAVs employ a rear disc brake and combine a drum parking brake into the design. The rear disc brake (foot brake) is a simple single piston design with a reacting bridge to the outer pad. In this design, when the inner pad touches the disc and cannot move any further, the outer pad is applied when the bridge is slid along guide pins with an equal and opposite force. Changing the rear discs and changing the handbrake shoes goes hand in hand. Only when the shoes are in near perfect condition does it make sense not to change them. The handbrake is a "static brake", in other words it should only ever be operated when the vehicle is at a stand. For this reason, in theory it should never wear out. However, if new shoes are fitted with an old disc or vice versa, it follows that no "bedding" can take place and this is the reason that you should normally fit new with new. Having said that, there is a procedure for bedding a combination of old and new but this must be done with great care and is shown in a later pdf. I won't pretend this is the easiest job in the world but in my opinion it is much easier than the 4.2. If you are only changing the pads then you will be able to pick out the information that applies to you but you should not change the discs without changing the pads and the handbrake shoes unless they are virtually unworn. This tutorial is showing the right hand rear brake (drivers side UK, passenger side US) CLICK THE IMAGES TO ENLARGE THEM! I will start by showing you how I lifted and supported the car as this gets asked from time to time. I lift under the lower suspension arm; I support the vehicle under the front of the trailing arm (have you noticed the exhaust leak!); If you are only changing the pads, undo the lower 14mm headed bolt and swing the caliper up. As I was removing the disc I undid both and removed the caliper. It sits nicely on the suspension arm at the back. Now just prize out the pads with a screwdriver (for changing the pads only, jump forward to pushing the piston in); Now undo the two 17mm headed bolts and remove the carrier from the hub; By using a screwdriver through the wheel studs, rotate the disc until the hole in the disc is aligned with the adjuster; Then use a screwdriver to de-adjust the shoes inside. Look at the diagram for handbrake adjustment to see which way to turn. Now a drop of WD40 in the threaded holes and use a pair of 8mm bolts to draw the disc off; Now you can see inside OK and it will be grubby to say the least. I will show you how the springs go after so don't worry about them just now. The hub has a number of cut outs which are your best friend. Rotate the hub to give more access to the brake parts. They don't look much but trust me they really make it easier. You can use a pair of pliers to remove the front spring; ........and I just popped the rear spring off with a screwdriver. Each shoe has a hold down clip. I put my finger on the back of the pin and then with a pair of pliers, push the clip in and grip the head. Turn it 90 degrees and it will pop off. Now from under the brake, unhook the lower spring and pull the shoes off. There is a metal link which acts a compensating arm at the top. When this drops off, the handbrake lever will pop right off. Leave it attached to the handbrake cable. This will all make sense when you see it. Ok, now time to have a clean up. I washed it all down with soluble degreaser and wiped clean with a rag. Now wash the brake parts off. I have assembled them here so you can see how the springs go. You can see the compensating plate at the top which as well as acting as a bell crank to apply the opposite shoe, holds the handbrake lever in position. The threaded part of the adjuster goes to the back and the two top springs hook onto the backplate when assembled. You can also see that I use special ceratec grease which is specially for brakes. You can use high melting point grease but use copper grease as a last resort as it congeals with age. The retaining clips face down as shown when fitted. OK now back to the car. Wipe a smear of grease onto the contact points on the backplate - where the shoes rub. You also want some on the round abutments and each end of the adjuster - everywhere there is metal to metal contact. First hook the front shoe onto the brake. Put the retaining clip on. It's a fiddle but while holding the head of the pin, align the cut out and push the clip on and then turn the head 90 degrees. Now put the compensating plate in the top and hook the front shoe spring to the anchor on the back plate. Now after greasing the hand brake lever pin, insert it into the shoe and locate it into the compensating plate. Hook the spring into the plate and then anchor it onto the backplate. Now attach the retaining clip into the rear shoe and that will stop the hand brake lever from keep trying to pop off. Now fit the adjuster underneath. Hook the long side of the spring into the rear shoe first and then hook it into the front shoe so it is all assembled as the picture above. When done correctly it will look like this from above; ........and this from underneath; After washing the protective compound off the disc, fit it with two wheel nuts. Now working inside the car, completely de-adjust the handbrake cable. Now adjust the parking brake shoes following the link to the tutorial above. OK, now fit the caliper carrier (pop out the slide pins and clean and grease them). Lie the old pads against the new ones and transfer the wear indicators and the shims onto the new ones. Apply a smear of grease onto the contact points and fit the pads to the carrier. Now use a clamp to push the piston back in; and then fit the caliper. Do both sides then adjust the cable inside the car. Press the brake pedal a couple of times and expect it to go to the floor until the pads contact the disc. Follow the pinned instructions for settling the shoes and do not over adjust the handbrake. Torque settings; Caliper carrier - 88Nm (65 ft/lbs) Caliper retaining bolts - 26.5 Nm (20 ft/lbs) Wheel nuts - 103 Nm (76 ft/lbs)
  5. I was recently reminded by our good friend Fujisan that as some 4.3s will be due for the first MOT this year that it might be a good idea to review this subject and I will pin it for future use. The VSC is such that if you use conventional means to test the brakes (brake roller tester with one wheel being tested at a time) it will pick that up as the vehicle out of control as one wheel is turning and three are not. The system cannot detect that the vehicle is stationary because there is a speed sensor on each wheel (used for vehicle speed detection rather than ABS operation - very unusual). The one turning wheel will fool the system into thinking that the vehicle is in motion. For this reason the VSC MUST be disabled otherwise when the first wheel turns in isolation from the others it will try to lock up the transmission in 4WD and the brake tester will force the wheel to turn against the locked transmission. Serious damage could result as you will be trying to haul a ton and a half of RAV out of the brake roller by one wheel against partially applied brakes because the tester is pressing the brake pedal!!! It is a potential RAV transmission/VSC infighting thing! A main dealer should know what has to be done and will install his DLC3 tester and set it to "brake test" which will disable the VSC/Traction Control. However, I for one will not be going to the dealer for MOT (purely as a matter of convenience) and if anyone else has similar plans then the VSC has to be disabled. It is extremely risky to assume that the independent tester knows about this very unusual system and wouldn't just go ahead and test it in the normal way. There are three ways to ensure the test is conducted without risk. You personally don't have to do it yourself but it would be wise to print this out and take it to the MOT station and make sure they are very aware. Here are the three methods; 1. Use the press brake/hand brake method described here; Begin with the parking brake off and the engine off. Start engine. Apply parking brake and press the foot brake twice then let the parking brake off again. Press the foot brake and pull the parking brake on and off twice then let the foot brake off again. Finally pull the parking brake on and press the brake twice. The VSC light will now come on and stay on until you switch the ignition off again after which the VSC defaults to on again. 2. Use a piece of wire to short out the pins 4 and 12 of the DLC plug shown here; Here is a photo of the plug just by the bonnet pull; 3. Raising the vehicle off the ground Then there is this method but it is labour intensive and the MOT tester isn't likely to thank you for it! It requires the other wheels to be allowed to turn while the individual brakes are tested (albeit fail safe as no damage can be done). It means the car has to be lifted to get the remaining wheels off the ground and the handbrake off so that all wheels can turn freely when the transmission locks up - like this; Remember that this also has to be done when testing the rear wheels and the tester is going to love that too! The easiest way is in disabling the VSC as described in either 1. or 2. above. The first is easy enough with a bit of practice and the second needs a bit of confidence but is also easy. I printed the first procedure and left it in the glove box. Just remember that when taking the car for test to have it disabled and don't worry - the first time the ignition is switched off the VSC will reset itself so do that before leaving.
  6. I was recently reminded by our good friend Fujisan that as some 4.3s will be due for the first MOT this year that it might be a good idea to review this subject and I will pin it for future use. The VSC is such that if you use conventional means to test the brakes (brake roller tester with one wheel being tested at a time) it will pick that up as the vehicle out of control as one wheel is turning and three are not. The system cannot detect that the vehicle is stationary because there is a speed sensor on each wheel (used for vehicle speed detection rather than ABS operation - very unusual). The one turning wheel will fool the system into thinking that the vehicle is in motion. For this reason the VSC MUST be disabled otherwise when the first wheel turns in isolation from the others it will try to lock up the transmission in 4WD and the brake tester will force the wheel to turn against the locked transmission. Serious damage could result as you will be trying to haul a ton and a half of RAV out of the brake roller by one wheel against partially applied brakes because the tester is pressing the brake pedal!!! It is a potential RAV transmission/VSC infighting thing! A main dealer should know what has to be done and will install his DLC3 tester and set it to "brake test" which will disable the VSC/Traction Control. However, I for one will not be going to the dealer for MOT (purely as a matter of convenience) and if anyone else has similar plans then the VSC has to be disabled. It is extremely risky to assume that the independent tester knows about this very unusual system and wouldn't just go ahead and test it in the normal way. There are three ways to ensure the test is conducted without risk. You personally don't have to do it yourself but it would be wise to print this out and take it to the MOT station and make sure they are very aware. Here are the three methods; 1. Use the press brake/hand brake method described here; Begin with the parking brake off and the engine off. Start engine. Apply parking brake and press the foot brake twice then let the parking brake off again. Press the foot brake and pull the parking brake on and off twice then let the foot brake off again. Finally pull the parking brake on and press the brake twice. The VSC light will now come on and stay on until you switch the ignition off again after which the VSC defaults to on again. 2. Use a piece of wire to short out the pins 4 and 12 of the DLC plug shown here; Here is a photo of the plug just by the bonnet pull; 3. Raising the vehicle off the ground Then there is this method but it is labour intensive and the MOT tester isn't likely to thank you for it! It requires the other wheels to be allowed to turn while the individual brakes are tested (albeit fail safe as no damage can be done). It means the car has to be lifted to get the remaining wheels off the ground and the handbrake off so that all wheels can turn freely when the transmission locks up - like this; Remember that this also has to be done when testing the rear wheels and the tester is going to love that too! The easiest way is in disabling the VSC as described in either 1. or 2. above. The first is easy enough with a bit of practice and the second needs a bit of confidence but is also easy. I printed the first procedure and left it in the glove box. Just remember that when taking the car for test to have it disabled and don't worry - the first time the ignition is switched off the VSC will reset itself so do that before leaving.
  7. Difficulty - Easy Time - about 5 minutes Tools - Small screwdriver, coin or similar implement Parts - 2016 battery (98p from Screwfix) Introduction The battery in the key should be changed periodically (not more than 2 years) and this tutorial shows how to conduct this easy job. Procedure Remove any key rings and use a small screwdriver to open the outer case in the slot provided as shown; Now use the same screwdriver to carefully prize the battery module out of the outer casing; Set aside the outer casing and use a coin or similar implement to open the battery module in the position shown; Now with the inner case open use the small screwdriver to pop the battery out; When you open the new battery use some clean tissue or kitchen roll to carefully wipe it and remove the protective coating. Take extra care not to hold the battery accross the flat sides but only on the edge. Holding it on the flat sides will discharge it through your fingers in seconds; Put the battery back into the case and assemble the various parts by snapping them together. There is no need to reprogram the key but test it to ensure it works.
  8. Difficulty - Easy Time - about 45 minutes. Frequency - 10,000 miles or 12 Months Tools required - 14mm socket and ratchet with extension bar. Filter wrench (examples shown below). Drain container. Jug or measure to re-fill oil. If you decide to remove the sump shield you will need the 10mm socket and a trim tool or screwdriver to pop out the fixing studs. A phillips screwdriver to remove the clips in the access flaps. A torque wrench if you have one. Parts - 5.9 litres of 5W/30 Semi Synthetic oil (I paid £12.97+VAT for 5 litres). I only use Morris's oil; 1 oil filter - 04152-31060, later part No 01452-OR010 - £9.60 inc VAT (See Kingo for discounted price delivered to home address). This is the proper oil filter socket with cut outs to engage the lugs on the filter housing. Either Google or search ebay and type in "Lexus oil filter socket". Laser do a cheaper pressed steel version. Introduction The oil not only has the job of lubricating the many moving parts of the engine it also accounts for about 30% of the cooling and has many other functions. These include anti foaming agents and suspension additives that stop dirt from settling and detergents to keep the inside of the engine clean. The viscosity or "thickness" of the oil is determined by a viscosity index number. Thin oil starts at zero and the higher the number the thicker it gets. The oil for the 2.2 D4D is stated as 5W/30. This means that the oil is thin when cold (5W - winter viscosity) and 30 for summer or warm. The oil is able to change its viscosity with temperature as it is fortified with a structure that bulks up as the temperature rises and maintains its lubricating qualities through a wide temperature range. The oil is in an extremely hostile environment. Inside the engine it is subject to extremes of pressure and temperature. It becomes contaminated with carbon and fuel which escapes in small quantities past the pistons and as the engine cycles through temperature it produces significant amounts of condensation which is also suspended in the oil. Over time these contaminants create quite a corrosive cocktail and so must be renewed periodically to maintain engine life. Healthy oil will significantly improve the lifespan of seals, gaskets and timing chains in addition to major engine components. If there is one piece of advice that you will benefit from more than any other it is to change the oil at least as specified if not sooner. My RAV has done just less than 13k and is not 2 years old until September but because of the low mileage I have changed the oil 3 times in this period. Generally the lower the mileage the more water gets into the oil and frequent changes are adviseable. Those vehicles doing 10-12k per year or more are less vunerable and can comfortably be left the full year or 10k whichever comes first. The oil and filter change forms the basis of the intermediate service. Even if you have to buy some items to get set up you can then change your own oil and ask your Toyota Centre to do the rest of the service which will cost considerably less. In summary the oil is the life blood of the engine. If you neglect anything else you risk damage. If you neglect the oil you will definitely ruin the engine. Procedure The oil becomes extremely hot so be sure to change the oil when the engine is warm. Warm oil will also drain out of the engine more thoroughly. To help with the clarity of the photos I put the car onto ramps but it is possible to do it on a level surface or to aid the process slightly you can drive it onto sturdy blocks of wood. Do not use concrete blocks or bricks as they can crumble under the weight. It is possible to gain extra access by driving the drivers side wheel onto a convenient kirb. The onus on gaining more access safely is with you! If you have sensitive skin use barrier cream or disposable gloves and have a good supply of rags for any spillage. Accessing the sump plug and filter is done through 2 flaps in the sump shield. The left flap with the red arrow points to the filter and the right green arrow points to the sump plug. To undo the flaps unscrew the phillips screw carefully then pop out the stud with a trim tool or screw driver; You can see much better in this picture with the sump shield removed. Use the 14mm socket to remove the sump plug; and carefully position your container to catch the oil; While that is draining get ready to change the filter. The box comes with the new rubber O rings and also a drain adapter for draining the filter which would otherwise result in oil all over the place; Find a piece of hose or pipe to fit the adapter. Remove the plug in the filter case with the 14mm socket; then push the adapter and pipe into the filter which will lift a valve and drain the oil into your container; When the oil has drained remove the adapter which will automatically withdraw the old sealing ring> Use a socket or filter wrench to unscrew the filter housing; Remove the housing and filter and I worked in a tray on the bench. Drain and wipe out the filter housing with clean rags. Remove the old sealing ring and fit the new one. When you fit the new one do not roll it on but stretch carefully over the filter housing then work your way down to the groove. A twisted seal may leak oil; Lightly oil the new ring with clean engine oil. Clean out the housing on the engine with clean rags. Fit the new filter then screw the assembly back onto the engine. The torque is 40Nm or 30ft/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench the filter needs to be nipped up tight but don't go mad! Clean the filter plug and fit the new O ring. Lightly oil the ring with clean engine oil and screw the plug back into the filter housing. The torque is 12.5 Nm or 9ft/lbs. Again if you do not have a torque wrench this only needs nipping with a short socket bar or 14mm spanner. Clean the sump plug and refit it to the sump. If the sealing washer is damaged in any way fit a new one (ask Kingo for a new one when ordering the filter). The torque for the plug is 38Nm or 28 ft/lbs or again if you don't have a torque wrench tighten it securely with the 14mm socket and ratchet. Fill the engine with 5.9 litres of 5W/30 semi Synthetic oil. In this photo I have removed the engine cover (it just pulls off) for clarity; With the oil added ensure the gearbox is in neutral and start the engine. Watch the dash board to see that no engine warnings are displayed. When the oil pressure rises in the engine you will hear the engine note change. Go back underneath and check the filter and sump plug are not leaking. Leave the engine running for 5 minutes then check again for leaks. If all is OK refit the flaps. Newer engines will use more oil than older ones so check the oil frequently with the dip stick until consumption has been established. To reset the oil service indicator do as follows; Set the multi-information display to TRIP A. Turn the ignition switch off. Press and hold the ODO / TRIP switch, and turn the ignition switch on (IG). After turning the ignition switch on (IG), keep holding the switch for at least 5 seconds. The reset procedure is complete. Dispose of the oil considerately. All local authority waste disposal sites will take waste oil so will most local garages if you have a good relationship with one. The oily rags and old filter should be disposed of in the same way.
  9. In addition to the information supplied in the owner's manual, here is some information on the vehicle jacking points for the RAV 4.3. Please remember: Don't jack up a heavily loaded vehicle. If you're removing a heavy part (e.g. engine), the centre of gravity of the vehicle is likely to shift as you do it. Don't work under a vehicle just supported by the jack - it's not worth the risk. Use correctly placed wheel chocks if appropriate. Above all, always follow the appropriate safety precautions. If you have side steps fitted, there is some information on side jacking points here: Click Here - Jacking with Side Steps The central jacking positions for the 4.3 are: Front: Engine under cover Rear: Body lower back panel - You'll need a long reach jack. The rear lower back panel 4.3 jacking area: A slighly out of focus, 4.3 front jacking area: The information is supplied in good faith, but TOC and any of its members accept no liability for any damage, injury or loss sustained through use of the information provided. Please work safely.
  10. Difficulty - Medium Time - The are 2 stages, one to adjust the brakes themselves and the other to adjust the cable. Cable 10 minutes Including brakes 1 hour. Tools - Jack and wheel brace, flat blade screwdriver, phillips No2 screwdriver, 10mm socket and suitable driver. Trim tool if available. 2 X 10mm spanners. Introduction The handbrake on all 4.3 RAVs is of the "drum in hat/exclusive" type. This consists of a small diameter drum brake which is positioned in the boss of the rear brake disc. Although a handbrake could be incorporated into the disc brake, these are becoming less popular because they rely entirely upon clamping force which requires high actuation force and are exposed to contamination if the vehicle should be used off road. Although the parking brake is efficient, it should be remembered that it is solely a static brake and should never be used dynamically because it is at a huge mecanical disadvantage - a tiny brake inside a large wheel. Even applying it just as the wheels are coming to a stand will eventually cause excessive wear of the components. As it is a static brake the linings should last indefinitely and the brake requires little maintenance. Once adjusted after the linings have bedded to the drum it should normally not be required again for the life of the vehicle. Occasionally the drum brakes may become inefficient due to lack of use, a build up of contaminants or incorrect use. If the linings have become wet (when the vehicle is waded to the depth of 300 - 500mm) the brake will be submerged and can be dried by applying the handbrake with a force of 10kgs for a distance not exceeding 400m at 30mph. If the linings have been replaced they can be bedded by using the same procedure but repeating the process after a cooling period of 1 minute a number of times as required. In this case the brake should be re-adjusted when completed. Once the brakes have been adjusted for the first time, any subsequent adjustment required is likely to be as a result of cable stretch. If you have no reason to suspect the brakes need further adjustment (you haven't renewed the linings etc) then it is acceptable to adjust the cable only. The cost for having the handbrake adjusted can vary. I have heard reports ranging from £25 - £65 which I presume depends on whether the foundation drum brakes have been adjusted or only the cable. Procedure To adjust the foundation parking brake shoes; Working on level ground safely chock the front wheels and release the hand brake. Observing all the usual precautions, jack up and remove one rear wheel. Ideally the vehicle should be jacked and supported on axle stands but if the supplied vehicle jack is used under no circumstances place any part of your body under the vehicle. As the disc is not fixed to the hub it is necessary to secure it by taking two of the wheel nuts and running them up to the disc. The hand brake adjuster is accessible through a rubber bung in the disc. Using a screwdriver, prize out the bung and rotate the disc (it will be stiff as you have to turn the transmission) until the toothed adjuster is visible - it will be somewhere near the bottom. Note - the photos of the disc are Wollastons 4.2 but for the purposes of this exercise they are the same; Use the screwdriver to engage the teeth of the adjuster; To adjust the brake you need to turn the adjuster as shown to expand the shoes; Turn the adjuster until it is no longer possible to move the disc then turn it backwards until the disc is just free. It is OK to hear it rubbing but it should not be tight. Turn the disc a full revolution to make sure there are no tight spots. When complete refit the rubber bung and the roadwheel. Go around and repeat the process at the other wheel but when finished do not lower the wheel to the ground. To adjust the hand brake cable; Go inside the car and use a trim tool or screwdriver to prize off the trim at the side of the gearstick. If you have not done this before you will think that you are going to break it but it is designed to come off. However, take care starting at the rear and as it comes up keep moving the tool under and towards the front to get a better purchase; There are 4 clips, three on the bottom and one facing forward at the front so lift it up at the back first then as soon as the bottom clips are free pull it back; Now get your lever under the gear lever gaiter and gently prize it up; Lift the gaiter over the gearstick out of the way but do not attempt to remove it. Now open the centre storage lid and prize off the panel that holds the mirror controls. This is the entire panel which goes around the gearstick - the mirror controls are on a smaller panel on it. The are no screws only clips; From under the panel squeeze the clips gently and push out the mirror control panel. Then press the clip and remove the wires; Remove these items to access the cable adjuster. Use the 2 X 10mm spanners to unlock the adjusting nut. Hold the bottom nut still and undo the top nut anti clockwise; Now turn the bottom nut clockwise to tension the cable. The specification calls for 7 - 9 clicks with a pulling force of 20kgs (44 lbs) - thats a heavy pull! The main thing is not to over adjust it so you should still feel some free play at the bottom of the lever travel. Keep adjusting and testing little by little. If you start at the bottom and pull, you should not feel any resistance until about the third click. As a check go back to the jacked up wheel and check that it turns freely. Replace all of the trim in the reverse order remembering to re-connect that cigar lighter. Lower the remaining wheel and don't forget to finally tighten the road wheel nuts to the specified torque of 76 ft/lbs. As a final check take the vehicle to an incline where it would normally just roll and check to see that it does so in both directions. For those that might prefer the handbrake to be on with just one click don't forget that if it binds it will get hot and cause a lot of damage so whatever happens make sure you do these checks to make sure it is free.
  11. Difficulty - Medium Time - About an hour Tools - trim tool (example here) - or screwdriver with taped blade, 10mm socket and suitable driver, 30mm hole cutter or forstner bit and suitable drill. Introduction This procedure follows the fitting of the genuine Toyota interface which is available at a special price via Lindop Bros Toyota. It allows the use of the existing steering wheel controls and repeats some data on the radio display. It is also compatible with the latest generation 3 Ipod Nano NOTE; The £37 additonal Y loom is only necessary if something is already plugged into the external CD changer socket. In most cases this isn't the case so only buy it if you really need it. Procedure The full Toyota fitting instructions in full are here; First disconnect the battery; Then remove the glove box by releasing the damper; and squeezing the stops to allow the glove box to drop down; Allow the glove box to drop roughly level then just pull it to remove. Next carfully prize off the bottom of the radio bezel to remove it and press the clip on the plugs to remove the wires from the hazard warning and diff lock switches; Remove the 4 bolts that are holding the radio in and pull the radio forward. Remove the plugs and aerial from the back and remove the radio. Install the interface and loom. The instructions show that you place the interface behind the centre console forward trim. You remove it by pulling it out into the footwell as shown and then withdraw it back towards the seat; However, because of the soundproofing and trim I couldn't easily locate it there so I placed it up above the glovebox as shown. Use the supplied adhesive pad but use a tie wrap to secure it; Re-fit the radio and plug in all the connectors and aerial. The ipod interface loom also plugs in and it only fits in one socket so you cant go wrong. Next, use a 30mm drill to make a hole in the bottom of the upper cubby hole. I used a sharp forstner woodworking bit but any hole saw will do. The instructions show that you centre the hole 25mm from the back and the side of the cubby hole base but due to the support bracket it is not possible. I drilled in this location and it works OK; Make a good job of clipping the wires up. Insert the grommet as shown and the ipod connects as shown. With the battery lead re-connected turn the radio on and press the "disc" button twice to activate the external CD plug to which the ipod is connected. The ipod will show the Toyota logo and is then isolated as all functions are controlled from the radio head unit; How good is it? The reproduction is crystal clear and the tone and stereo separation is excellent. You can play each playlist and each track within the playlist. The track info is shown on the radio but you cannot search via artist, title or album name, the tracks are played alphabetically or randomly;
  12. Difficulty - Easy Time - 5 minutes. Tools - None Frequency - Normal Conditions: 14000 miles Dusty conditions: 12 months or 9000 miles UK Part No and price TBA by Lindop Brothers Toyota in subsequent post. Additional information - Further diagrams can be found on page 276/279 of the Owners Handbook (LHD shown). Filter may not be fitted to models with manual air conditioning. Introduction To improve the environment inside the car, a clean air filter is fitted to the heater intake. This is intended to remove dust and particles that would otherwise enter the car. The filter fitted to the RAV is a particulate filter which has been electrostatically charged to capture the finest particles that are also positive or negatively charged and attracted to the filter. New filters are snow white but soon become blackened by the volume of tiny particles trapped within them. The result as well as a fresher interior is cleaner interior and air vents etc. A filter that is becoming clogged will also starve the interior of fresh air and windows will quickly steam up so it is very important to replace the filter as at the correct interval or more frequently under dusty conditions. Replacement filters with an activated carbon core may become available which also remove odours that may occur for instance in heavy traffic. The filter will soon become clogged with flies and leaves etc. The blackening is due to dust and pollen (even smaller than the pores in the filter) that have been attracted to the filter fibres. It is very easy to access this filter so I recommend that you remove and clean the filter at least every 12 months and if it looks clogged, replace it. Procedure 1. Working from the passenger side, empty the glove box and remove the damper from the left hand side; 2. Squeeze the stops at either side of the glove box to allow it to drop down; 3. Drop the glove box to just below level to expose the mounting hinges and pull the glove box back towards the seat in order to detach it. With the glove box removed the white plastic access cover is clearly visible on the heater case. Press the clip on the left side to remove the cover outwards; 4. Withdraw the filter from the heater intake; 5. It can be seen in this photo how much debris has been trapped in 10 months/7500 miles (Note, the cleaner filter in this photo has been fitted for about a month and is already beginning to discolour). As an interim measure it is acceptable to turn the filter upside down and tap out the large objects onto a hard surface and vacuum the fine particles from the dirty side only. Avoid breathing the dust. It is unwise to leave replacement beyond the recommended intervals and essential not to leave the filter out all together. 6. To refit a new filter place it into the heater intake with the "UP" arrow positioned accordingly. Replace the cover, glovebox and glovebox damper.
  13. Difficulty - Easy Time - About 10 minutes per side Tools - Small screwdriver, clear or black silicone Introduction There is a small access cover under each door mirror which is invariably not a tight fit and will cause quite a considerable amount of rattling at various speeds or wind conditions. The fix is easy and involves adding a small amount of silicone to the cover. Procedure This is the cover under the mirror. If you tap it you will find it loose and rattles. Use a small screwdriver to pop off the cover. Sometimes only one side rattles but while you are doing that you might as well do the other! Take care not to damage the paint or stick that screwdriver in yourself. Take the covers to the bench and apply 3 small beads of silicone to the cover as shown. Do not apply a full bead as you will stop water draining from the mirror and make future removal of the covers extremely difficult. Now go back and pop the covers back into their housing. The car can be driven immediately.
  14. Difficulty - Medium Time - about 90 minutes Tools required - Trim tool (example here) or similar lever. Phillips screwdriver, 10 and 14mm sockets and drivers. Drill and jig saw or similar cutting tool. Introduction The boot light is attached to the rear door which is not much good when the door is open. I got an additional light from a scrap yard and wired it in to come on with the existing switch so that it comes on automatically when the door is opened. Procedure First obtain a suitable light. I got this one from a scrap yard but the supplier could not be sure which kind of car it came from however it does say GM on it so it could be a Vectra or similar. In obtaining a light try to get one that has simple male spade terminals and it is probably best to avoid having a switched one but not essential. This probably came from a boot, glovebox or sunvisor so you can have a look around complete cars to find something suitable. If the wires to it have a unique plug, try to get the plug and about 75mm of wire to ease fitting. Here I am measuring the light to see what size hole I need to cut in the panel; There is a limit of how many photos can be attached to a post so follow the instructions in this pdf file to show how to get the rear quarter panel off. You will need to follow items 1,2 and 3 on page 8. Then items 6,7 and 8 on page 10 then the instructions on page 10 if you are going to do just the drivers side or both page 10 and 11 if you want to do the passenger side or both sides. It doesn't matter which side you put the light in, I did the drivers side but you could do the other or better still both if you can find 2 matching lights. When you have the panel off it will look like this; Look at the panel and find a location that is fairly high up but will not foul anything at the back. I chose a location just forward of the top of the removable panel. Mark the position of the light; Cut out a piece of card the same size as the opening determined earlier. If anything make the opening on the small side and you can always open it up later if the light is tight. Centre the card on the marked position and then draw around it; Drill a hole then cut the aperture for the light. Don't have it too tight - keep making adjustments until just right. Now look inside the door frame on the hinge side where the rubber umbilical trunking carries the wires from the door. There are 2 plugs. You are working with the lower one and here I have disconnected it to show which wires you need to splice into; The wires are the ones nearest the camera marked in red. Peel back some of the protective sheath and run a length of twin core wire that is long enough to run to the chosen location. I don't like scotch locks in anything other than an entirely weather free location so I have used them here to splice into the two marked wires. Attach male spade terminals to the other end or the piece of wire attached to the plug if you got one with the light. Now is a good time to re-attach the battery earth lead and just test the light; Although I haven't got a second light I took this opportunity to run two looped in wires to the other side of the boot so that fitting a second one will only need me to take one panel off; Now you can refit all of the panels by reversing the instructions in the pdf file. Be sure to very securely clip up all of the wires and insulate any connections. Finally attach the wires to the light and pop the light into the panel;
  15. Difficulty - Easy Time - About 30 minutes Tools - Trim removal tool (example here) or flat blade screwdrivers, 10mm socket and spanner Introduction In order to prevent the rear lights from being obscured by the spare wheel, RAVs are fitted with a check strap that limits the door opening to about 60 degrees. However a replacement that opens to a full 90 degrees can be fitted at the risk of the owner. This makes the load space far more practical. Part No 68650-42070 Price £60 inc delivery and VAT from Lindop Bros Toyota Procedure To acces the check strap it is necessary to remove all of the plastic trim from the rear door. If you have never done this you will think you are going to break it but don't worry it is designed to come off! Open the rear door and start with the trim above the rear window. Carefully push the trim tool or similar lever between the right hand side of the trim and the door. If necessary lever off a piece of card to avoid damaging the paint. Prize down towards the floor; As soon as you have enough room work across to the left side by putting your fingers between and easing the trim downward. There are 4 studs to pop off spaced roughly at quarters along the trim. Next move to the side trims by levering from inside the exposed opening at the top; Now the big panel at the bottom comes off. It is held on only by pop studs so again put the lever between and ease the panel out away from the door; As soon as you can get your fingers behind, start to work your way around the panel progressively popping the panel off. When it comes away, squeeze the catch on the wiring connector and pull the wires off the light; This picture shows all of the trim off so you can see the location of the pop studs; Inevitably some studs will stay in the door In this case ease them out with the trim tool or 2 screwdrivers and slide them back into the relevant location; Now carefully separate the polythene liner from the door. Try not to damage it as this stops condensation from forming on the inside of the panel in cold weather; Now undo the 2 10mm nuts; and the 10mm bolt that hold the check strap on; Do not let the door swing about or it could be damaged. Manoeuvre the check strap out from inside the door; Put the new strap in and refit the fixing nuts and bolt. Replace the polythene liner (avoid getting that black adhesive on your hands!) and pop the lower panel back on not forgetting to first plug in the light. Re-fit the side and top trim by poping them on. Finally apply a drop of oil to the pivot point but not to the strap itself as it is self lubricating.
  16. Difficulty - Medium Time - about 1 hour Tools needed - 14mm spanner and a 12mm spanner if the brackets have to be changed (see text). Introduction The standard horns fitted to the RAV are of the vibrating disc type and they are not as good as some people would like. To upgrade them to electric wind tone horns is not difficult but it is fiddly. Windtone horns give a sound that is associated more with up-market vehicles like BMW or Jaguar. This picture shows the difference between the two types; The wind tone horn on the left is one of a kit of two bought from an accessory shop complete with fittings but they are available singly from most motor factors. If you buy them as singles be sure to check that you have a high and a low tone indicated by "L" and "H" stamped on the body of the horn. Also horns come with one or two connectors - single or double pole. For simplicity, try to get single pole but if you can only get double just follow the instructions later in the text. Procedure To start with the plastic panel mounted accross the front of the grille has to come off; Getting it off is very easy. There are nine trim studs that are removed simply by using a pointed (but not sharp) implement. The tip of the ignition key is good enough but I've used a small screwdriver here to push the centre down. Press gently and the centre will click down by about 5mm; Now remove the nine studs and slide the panel back towards the engine just slightly to remove it. Now the horns are clearly visible; This closer view shows the left hand horn, the fixing nut and the single wire to it; Reach down and squeeze the clip on the horn plug to pull the connector off; Now using a 14mm spanner, undo the centre nut to release the horn. You are working close to a bank of three cooling radiators here which are delicate so take care not to damage them; Lift out the horn. Now the next operation can be the tricky bit! When I attempted to fit the new horn to the old bracket, the trumpet part fouled the inside of the radiator grille so I decided to change to the bracket that was supplied with the horn and I had to modify that slightly by bending it in the vice. If you are lucky yours will be a straight swap. To change the bracket you have to either remove the ront bumper which is quite a big job or reach behind the mounting cross rail with a 12mm spanner; You have to reach behind the cross rail and get the bolts with your finger tips. Transfer the new horn/bracket assembly to the rail and re-fit the bolt. Depending on where the wiring connector is on the new horn, you may have to do as I did and cut the horn wire free from the mounting clips at the bottom of the bumper (they are just fixed with insulation tape) and re locate them to the top of the radiator. The orientation of the horns is important. Don't turn the trumpet upwards to facilitate making the wire reach. The horns should be positioned with the trumpet at the bottom or in the lower quarter turn to avoid water getting into them. If the new horn has two connectors you will need to connect a new wire from one of the connectors to a good earth point. The nut that holds the horn to the bracket is fine. My new horns had only one connector so it is simple. This photo shows the horns installed and the new location of the wire. Test them before refitting the top panel; Now re-fit the top panel. The studs that hold the panel on need to be prepared, To do so, spread the legs of the outer clip and push the pin back up so that it stands proud of the top of the outer body; Slide the panel back under the locations on the back of the grill and drop the studs back into the nine holes. Only when all the studs are in place can you gently press the top of the stud so that the centre pin clicks flush with the top of the stud.
  17. Difficulty - Easy Time - about 20 minutes. Tools required - Torx T20 driver, 10mm spanner, pair of pliers, Flat blade screwdriver to lever roof panel down. US Part No - 00016 - 42116 inc compass (UK refer to Lindop Bros) Price - US $174.71 (about £96) UK £300 discounted from Lindop Bros. Introduction This post details the fitment of a photochromic (automatically dipping mirror) in place of the standard manual type as fitted to XT4 models and lower. The UK price I believe may be for the standard replacement photochromic mirror and not an accessory kit. Maybe Parts King can negotiate with TGB to get it introduced as an accessory kit at a reasonable price. Procedure Gently prize off the plastic cover on the mirror to screen mount. If necessary use a piece of card to protect the screen. It does come off quite easily; Next push the mirror up at the same rake as the screen in order to detach it. No tools here just push but it is quite stiff. Be sure to keep hold of the mirror!; Now with the mirror off, carefully prize the lighting panel down starting at one side and working around. Let the panel hang on the lighting wires - it isn't heavy! Locate the plug on the sunroof motor. Squeeze the clip and remove the plug from the sunroof motor. Use the supplied connector and attach it to the thin blue wire; That takes care of the ignition feed. If there is no sun roof, there is easily enough wire to run down the "A" pillar to the fuse box. The earth is slightly tricky because the bolts that are in clear view are insulated. So look into the aperture towards the passenger side and you will see this earth point (effectively over the passenger seat). There is a nut on it but I didn't try to get it off I just found another 6mm nut and used that to attach the earth wire. That white plastic tube is the drive cable for the sun roof. Don't allow the earth eyelet to put any pressure on it!; Now feed the wiring plug through the front of the headcloth and attach it to the mirror. The mirror comes with a very nice extendable conduit for you to hide the wire against the windscreen; Now while pulling back the slack in the wire drop the new mirror onto the mounting plate. This time it fits by tightening the T20 torx screw. Don't overtighten this screw!; Position the extending conduit so that it fits just under the headcloth then neatly bundle and clip the excess wire in the front of the lighting aperture using the tie wraps supplied with the kit. Next carefully push the lighting panel back into the headcloth. There are 4 plastic poppers plus metal guiders to locate the headcloth. Test the mirror by switching the ignition on. The green light will illuminate and if fitted, the compass will show "C". This indicates that the compass needs to be calibrated. To do this drive the vehicle through a 360 degree circle and the display will then show the heading; Temporarily attach a piece of black tape to the sensor on the screen side of the mirror then shine a light in the sensor on the mirror frame. The glass and the compass will very quickly darken to a dark green/grey tint; The Central Florida Parts Dept have offered to supply this part for the above price plus US postage (probably about £120 inc postage). I can provide the details if necessary but wait until Kingo has looked at it.
  18. Difficulty: Easy-ish Time: About 1 hour Tools: Two 17mm spanners - ring and open. Long spanners may help. As the chart below shows, it's quite normal for a shock absorber to have traces of oil around the top. However leaks like level 3 to 1 mean the shock absorber (SA) needs replacing. Probably a good idea to replace in pairs. As always, apply hand-brake, chock the opposite front wheel and without the vehicle raised, slightly slacken off the road wheel nuts. Jack the vehicle up and place on an axle stand: (note to self - it's a good idea to secure the stand with the split pin on the chain!) 2009 and beyond models are fitted with superdooperGoFasterAerodynamicFuelSaverGizmos to the rear suspension arms on each side. It makes things a bit easier, by removing this. Easily done with a 10mm socket. Support the suspension arm with the jack and remove the road wheel. Place a piece of wood between the jack head and the suspension arm, to prevent damage to the arm: (No the drive doesn't slope, must have had too much vino, picture is on the tilt). The vehicle should feel firmly supported now. Don't gamble with this - it's not worth it. The shock absorber is attached top and bottom with bolts and nuts. Shown here with nuts and bolts partly and fully removed. The bottom bolt is not too bad to access, the top is the worst, which is where you may need the open ended spanner. Obviously hold the bolt head with one spanner, while releasing the nut with the other. The bottom bolt attaches through a carrier, which in turn is attached to the wheel "hub" assembly. The bottom SA bolt will not come out unless this carrier is removed. The suspension arm is in the way and prevents the bolt coming fully out. If the bolt was inserted the opposite way around, there would be no problem and the bolt would come out, without removing the carrier. I suspect it is done like this so that if the bolt should come loose, it cannot drop out completely. Look underneath the "hub" and you will see two bolts: These attach the carrier to the "hub". Although I couldn't see how there could possibly be any relative movement, it's not a bad idea to place match marks before removing anything suspension related. It can save a whole heap of re-alignment later. In fact, the carrier doesn't have to be removed, slacking the bolts off a little and lowering the carrier, as shown, is enough to remove the bottom SA bolt. Once you have the top and bottom SA bolts out, the SA itself should come out easily: At time of writing part number is 48531-42240. Same part is used for both sides (no surprise really). Always check that the part number hasn't been updated. When refitting, the piece of metal welded to the lower part of the SA, goes towards the front of the vehicle. Some out of focus, installed SA pictures: Replace the top and bottom SA bolts and nuts. Torque up the SA carrier bolts to 80lbft. The top and bottom SA bolts are also 80 lbft. The bottom SA bolt is easy, but the top one is difficult to get a torque wrench to (At least with my kit), so I used "mechanicing judgement" on that one. Replace the road wheel and the superdooperGoFasterAerodynamicFuelSaverGizmo. Lower the vehicle. Road wheel nuts are 76 lbft. If you, can bounce the suspension a bit. Toyota procedure calls for the rear suspension alignment to be checked at this point. Unless there is other suspension damage repair, or tyres are scrubbing, I don't see that it is necessary. It's quite an involved process too. So, there you are. Next time the spotty "youf" in Kwikfit or wherever, tells you your shocks need replacing, thank him kindly for the advise, then check yourself and if necessary, replace them yourself.
  19. What is a Dual Mass Flywheel? The flywheel is effectively a weight which is fastened to the end of the crankshaft of the engine. The power from the pistons tends to be created in "pulses" and the weight of the flywheel smoothes out these pulses by providing inertia to the rotating engine. As well as providing a weight the flywheel has a gear around its circumference on which the starter motor operates and is a convenient means of attaching the clutch which provides a variable connection to the transmission. Modern diesel engines generate high torque and as a result they need extra smoothing out or "damping". To help with this process a DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel) is fitted. This is effectively two flywheels that transmit the drive through a number of springs which cushion the drive to the transmission. Please look at the bottom of this post to see a description of what a flywheel does. Is DMF failure inevitable? No not necessarily. Some vehicles cover very high mileages and do not have any problems. Whether the DMF fails depends on what kind of duty the vehicle is subjected to and to some extent the way the vehicle is driven. What happens when the DMF fails? In practical terms, the first an owner will know is likely to be either a vibration and/or metallic jingling noise. The time these symptoms take to manifest themselves as a complete failure will vary dramatically. A complete failure will probably result in not being able to select any gears or in extreme cases a complete loss of drive. However, it is recommended that if any of the symptoms described are experienced that the vehicle is taken immediately to a suitably equipped workshop for further investigation. This may avoid the inconvenience of a roadside breakdown and the associated recovery costs. The DMF on early models (up to those produced in August 2002) could under certain conditions come loose. This is the statement form Toyota GB regarding this matter; "The issue regarding Dual Mass Flywheels relates to RAV4 CLA20 and CLA21 models (early diesel vehicles) and was found to be that under hard use (towing etc) the flywheel securing bolts were unable to provide sufficient tightness. This was remedied by an improved flywheel and revised fastening and tightening processes, which were introduced into RAV4 vehicle production from August 2002. The improvements were made from VIN numbers, JT EYG20V400009863 JT EHG20V600026183 JT EHG20V606013132 With our commitment to customer satisfaction the warranty was extended for a period outside of the normal 3 year or 60,000 mile warranty. Because a production line fix was introduced from August 2002 claims would only be accepted on vehicles manufactured prior to this date. This extended period ran for 5 years or 100,000 miles (whichever comes first) and as such would therefore have expired in August 2007. I have to confirm that no extra time or mileage will be added to this warranty extension and all Toyota Centres are aware of the above information. My recommendation would be that owners who experience a failure outside of this period should contact their Toyota Centre and if they feel it appropriate, contact would be made to our Customer Relations Department for their consideration." Some Toyota Centres have insisted that a new that I have the ECU changed as well as the DMF and this costs more. Why is this? If there is evidence of heat related damage the Service Department may recommend that a re-programmed ECU is fitted to reduce the possibility of damage due to clutch slip. The Toyota Centre will advise you if any of the cost of this work can be met under the terms of the warranty. Why is it so expensive to change the DMF? The DMF is quite a complex part of your vehicle and it is fitted between the engine and the gearbox. To change it requires all of the gearbox and transfer box oil to be drained, then the front to rear drive shaft, transfer box , gearbox and all of the clutch components need to be removed. The vehicle has to be elevated and there is quite a lot of labour involved. What are Toyota doing about this and are any extended warranties available? Toyota are committed to ensuring that their vehicles perform reliably throughout their life and have provided this statement; "It is always concerning to learn of any product failure and if this does occur then we do look to the reasons to understand why this has occurred and take steps to prevent this from happening again in the future. This usually follows a remedy to the source on the production line, along with a modified part (normally identified by a superseded part number). As you have correctly advised the issue regarding the failure of the Dual Mass Flywheel on Toyota RAV4's has involved a revised tightening procedure from August 2002 production along with a modified part now supplied to the Toyota Centre Network. Should an owner suspect their vehicle has a problem then our advice would always be to take this along to their Toyota Centre to be remedied. Toyota Centres are kept updated through our technical and warranty teams to ensure they are always aware of the very latest information in respect of our model range and be able to advise owners on a recommended course of action should this affect their vehicle. With any failures outside of the Toyota warranty, which is 3 years or 60,000 miles whichever comes sooner, and no extended warranty has been purchased, then this would be dealt with on an individual basis between that owner and their Toyota Centre. This would also include any requests for goodwill outside of the warranty period." Is this problem only applicable to Toyotas? Absolutely not. A large number of vehicles from all manufacturers employ dual mass flywheels. To some extent their use is a necessary requirement with the evolution of modern high powered diesel engines to provide smooth operation and prevent any damage being caused to any other parts of the vehicle. Do I have to take my RAV to a Toyota dealer for repair? No. You can take your Toyota to any suitably equipped workshop. However, you should be sure that you have past experience of them or they come well recommended as the job is rather long and complicated. You can be sure that a Toyota workshop has all the necessary facilities to complete the work properly and a Toyota Centre will have access to guaranteed Genuine Parts and any information regarding modified or improved parts and processes that may not be available elsewhere. I am thinking of buying a second hand RAV 4. Can I tell if the DMF is faulty? You can test drive the vehicle and make sure it does not suffer from any excessive vibration. It is highly unlikely that you could detect any problems unless the failure was imminent. If in any doubt take the vehicle to a suitably equipped workshop for a professional opinion. Most reputable dealers will provide a suitable warranty and motoring organisations will test the vehicle for a fee. Should the possibility of any problems stop me from buying a diesel engined RAV 4? No. These are generally a very reliable and highly regarded vehicle that will provide many years of trouble free service. This section gives more information on the role of the flywheel and the DMF The flywheel has to be heavy as it maintains the inertia of the engine. When the four pistons come down on the power stroke it is like they are being shot down the barrel of a cannon and they all take it in turns - 1,3,4,2. The trouble is that the next one in sequence does not start until the previous one as right at the bottom of the stroke so the turning moment on the crankshaft is very "lumpy". The crankshaft is like the pedals on a bicycle (except instead of two there are four in a row), it turns the reciprocating (up and down) motion of the pistons into rotary motion that is eventually connected to the wheels. In order to make the engine rotate smoothly, a flywheel which is nothing more than a very heavy round weight is bolted onto the rear of the crankshaft. When the mass of this flywheel gets spinning it helps to remove the "lumpyness" of when one piston gets to the botttom of a cylinder and the next one being fired from the top. In very old single and double cylinder engines it had to be huge to keep the engine turning. On this traction engine it is up by the driving cab; You can see it very clearly on this single cylinder steam engine; You can imagine that without this flywheel to carry the piston around to the next power stroke the engine would stop. In really big engines you need a really big flywheel and in this mill engine at Wigan Pier it weighs 70 tons; Its hard for you to get a feel for just how big that is but if you look to the lower right of the picture there is a large double doorway into the mill. The flywheel has to be massive because it drives thousands of machines in the factory and as it is a spinning mill it is important that they turn at a constant speed. Now we relate the role of the flywheel to the D4D engine. In most cars the flywheel would be a relatively simple affair - just a weight as already stated but these small modern diesels are phenominally powerful for their size and the power strokes are effectively very "lumpy". You can imagine that if you fired the pedals down on your bike with a cannon instead of pushing them with your legs then the bike would be very jerky! Of course you could fit an even bigger flywheel on an engine to smooth out the lumps but there are limitations because; They absorb more of the engines power, it would rev up slowly and also slow down slowly which effects performance and slows down the gear changing process by having to wait for the speeds of different gears to synchronise. They use more fuel. They are difficult to accommodate. So the way that modern diesels are smoothed out is with a Dual Mass Flywheel similar to the one in this diagram; You can see that the flywheel is in two pieces. One is connected to the pistons (and dont forget that there are four pistons) and then the other is connected to the transmission via a set of annular springs around the circumference of the flywheel. These springs absorb the lumpyness of the pistons and transmit smooth rotary motion to the transmission. It makes the car feel smoother to drive and almost eliminates any vibration that would cause knock on damage to the clutch and gearbox. In this picture of a failed DMF belonging to one of our members, you can see that the bolts have become loose and the resultant damage around the eight fixing holes as the flywheel eventually worked loose. This problem was addressed during August 2002 and should no longer occur. However, as the DMF is no longer a simple one piece design and has become more complex it is not impossible for it to fail in other ways. It should not be confused with clutch wear or failure which is considered a consumable wearing part. This short clip of a VW DMF shows the result of the drive springs failing; and this is a good one but note there is still some play; This is a very nice animation of how the DMF is assembled and how it turns big vibrations into small ones; ......and this from LUK on how to test one; Please follow this link to discuss;
  20. I have repaired my 5th gear problem (it used to keep popping out). This involved replacing the sleeve and the actual 5th gear as well as the components that make up the synchronizer mechanism. It is now extremely smooth - no rattles or vibrations - I think better than when I first bought the car.. I have also noticed that shifting into other gears especially reverse is now much smoother - without that notchy feeling. This could be down to the new gearbox oil that I put in. On a scale of 1 - 10 this job is about 5 in complexity, and the only special tools I needed was a puller (I used a harmonic pulley puller) (like this - ancs; - though I had to buy the M8 bolts that attached the puller to the synchro hub. These are standard HT M8s with a standard thread pitch (I obtained these at Halfords). The pusher (to push the hub back on) was fashioned out of a large socket - plus 2 ring spanners, a M12 bolt (100mm) with a fine thread pitch (1.5mm). The two spanners were used as spacers on the pusher as the M12 bolt's thread length was about 30mm only. Total time to do this job was about 6 hours all in - could be done quicker I guess but this was my first time. The information in R4W is valid for my model (RAV 4.2) - the gearbox looks identical. The only brainy bit that I had to worry about was putting the synchroniser back together - I used the exploded diagrams of the gearbox components that anchorman kindly pointed me at to help me here. When I looked at the replacement parts (Thanks Kingo! ) and compared them to what I pulled out of the gearbox the only visible difference I could see was between the gear teeth patterns on the 5th gear and the sleeve. These were quite different - and could be down to wear. I dont believe the synchro hub was the problem here - the components (Rings springs etc all looked fine) - however I changed these as well. I think I saved about £400 in labour. I took some pictures (of my pusher) as well as pictures that look like those on the site above..I can post those as well if anyone is interested. This is the parts list I used: T08826-00090 C106 SEAL PACKING (gasket maker) T33336-42030 N/STK FIFTH gear T90364-28023 N/STK NEEDEL BEARING T33397-28010 N/STK SYNCHRO-RING T33396-28010 N/STK SYNCHRO-RING T33395-42010 N/STK TRANS.HUB&SLEE T90179-20012 N/STK NUT T33398-12010 N/STK SYNCHRO-RING T33393-42010 N/STK TRANS.HUB&SLEE T33399-12011 N/STK SYNCHRO-RING T33392-12010 Q1074 SPRING, SHFTING T33392-12020 Q1074 SPRING, SHFTING -phil Later, Chris (Tech01) added this information; I've had the annoying gear lever buzz in 5th (only). It started about 18 months ago, and slowly became a hammering rattle, which no amount of light finger pressure on the gearstick would prevent. Following various folks' advice, I checked over the gearcables and their rubber bushing, and found no problem. I re-greased the gear lever's ball/socket and joint mechanism, and removed and greased up all the swivels and balljoints at the gearbox end of the shift cables (the bell-crank mechanism). This produced a small degree of muting, but no cure. The gearstick vibration continued, worst at full throttle and at 100-120kph (60-75mph), always and only in 5th. I concluded that I had a worn Fifth gear (the subject of TSB WS-3002, Dec.2003), and last week replaced the complete 5thgearcluster. The parts list above was right for my 2003 4.2, except for the second item: 33364-42020, instead of 33364-42030. (Also, Nut 90179-20012, I found I didn't need, as it wasn't necessary to remove the layshaft-mounted gear.) All in, about a four hour job, the only fiddly bit being the assembly of the synchro components. It is essential to make up a disc or plate puller, as suggested, to remove the gear assembly (after first tapping away the thick circlip on the shaft end). Do not try to use a hooked puller on the gear cluster assembly: it’s a very snug fit on the splined shaft, and you’ll break something if you try. Make up a puller, and use the three threaded holes with three suitable bolts. I know you’re going to replace all the bits, but, if they break up and fall out, you’ll never know what goes where. I speak from experience here! Refilled the box with 75W-80 (has always worked for me, and far better changes than with 75W-90), and it drives and shifts like new. No vibration whatsoever, and a nice positively-located feel to fifth gear. My local Toyota (main agent) mechanics (Malaga, Spain) say they have replaced countless fifth gear assemblies, on RAVs from late ‘90s onwards. New parts “always” cure the problem, they tell me. Cost of parts was 658 Euro, plus vat. It looks to me as if a buzzing gear lever is very likely an early-warning for a fifth gear wear problem of failure waiting to happen. By all means check the cable lubrication (both ends) and bushing, but don’t hold your breath. Chris I will add any relevant pdf's asap - ancs.
  21. Difficulty - Medium Time - Allow 60 minutes per side. Tools required - A pair of 8mm bolts, screwdriver, spring release tool (can be manufactured), some coppergrease or HM grease and a selection of usual mechanics tools. Introduction Most 4.2 and 4.3 RAVs employ a rear disc brake and combine a drum parking brake into the design. The rear disc brake (foot brake) is a simple single piston design with a reacting bridge to the outer pad. In this design, when the inner pad touches the disc and cannot move any further, the outer pad is applied when the bridge is slid along guide pins with an equal and opposite force. Changing the rear discs and changing the handbrake shoes goes hand in hand. Only when the shoes are in near perfect condition does it make sense not to change them. The handbrake is a "static brake", in other words it should only ever be operated when the vehicle is at a stand. For this reason, in theory it should never wear out. However, if new shoes are fitted with an old disc or vice versa, it follows that no "bedding" can take place and this is the reason that you should normally fit new with new. Having said that, there is a procedure for bedding a combination of old and new but this must be done with great care and is shown in a later pdf. Procedure You can see above how to remove the pads and caliper. Have a look at the handbrake instructions here to see how to de-adjust the brake. Then follow these instructions; Pay attention to the order of the shims and pins. You did absolutely right buying these off Kingo - they are often overlooked. hbrake parts.pdf With the handbrake off and the brake de-adjusted, try tapping the disc and it may come off. If you intend re-using the disc, hold a piece of timber against it and tap it with a heavy hammer or lump hammer. If it doesn't come loose, screw two 8mm bolts into the extraction holes and wind them in progressively by equal amounts; With the disc removed, you can see the shoes. Follow these instructions to remove the shoes but I will add a few photos for clarity. h brake.pdf hbrake2.pdf NOTE - the pdf shows the LH brake and my photos show the RH brake so keep that in mind! Trust me, the pdf makes it sound easier than it is. This is a fiddly little job and you have to work behind the hub. My advice is that you use a screwdriver to turn the hub (gearbox in neutral); line up the cut outs with those steady pins. I have the proper tool as you can see here; The idea is to press the cap in and twist it quarter turn to align the slotted hole at which time it will spring off. You can do it with pliers as shown here; Put your finger around the back of the brake and stop the pin from pushing through and then push and turn. You will drop the pliers many times and you will get a large collection of blood blisters but once you get the knack they will pop off. If you really struggle, ask an assistant to stop the pin pushing through while you use both hands on the pliers. When the steady posts have been removed you can see about unhooking the shoes. It is sometimes useful to take a few digital photos so you can see how they go back. Here you can see I have the proper tool but you can make one by bending an old coat hanger into a large hook and making a tiny hook on the end; When the return springs are off you can remove the front shoe but the rear shoe has the handbrake lever attached. To unhook it, pull it down past the hub............... ......and let go. Now use both hands to push the spring back up the cable and grip the cable with a pair of long nose pliers then slid the cable off the lever; Now you can clean everything up and remember, if you have any doubt about those shoes replace them. Here you can see I've cleaned the backplate and greased up all the contact points; Refitting is described in this pdf; hbrake3.pdf It is basically the reversal of removal but take your time and don't forget a second pair of hands might make things easier if you can find a willing assistant. You need the handbrake cable hooked on and then fit that rear shoe. You then need the other shoe and the shoe strut with all the little springs. Use these pdf's and you photos to check all is OK. If you didn't get blood blisters taking the steady posts off, don't worry you will get plenty putting them back :censor: Don't forget there is a cut out in the hub that will afford some more access but it isn't exactly spacious so if you get upset, have a brew and leave it a while. When it is back in one piece it should look like this; Now clean the linings with abrasive paper (avoid the dust) and eyeball the shoes to make sure they are concentric with the hub. Now would be a good time to apologise to your assistant for all the insults you made while fitting those steady posts - don't forget there is the other side to do. Pop the disc on and run a couple of wheel nuts up just while you adjust the shoes as shown in the handbrake instructions; Now build up the rest of the brake (caliper and pads). OK now if you mixed old and new you will have poor contact between the shoes and pads and as this is a static brake you will never get them to bed in. For this reason it is necessary to force bed them and think on you are working tiny brakes against a gigantic vehicle and you can soon do some damage so if in doubt to it little and often and only enough that the handbrake holds. It is acceptable to rub the handbrake with slight pressure for a few seconds from 30mph once every 6 months just to keep the linings clean. hand brake settling in procedure.pdf
  22. Difficulty - Hard Time - about 6 hours working over a pit in a well lit garage. It can be done outside over ramps if you choose a nice day and take suitable safety precautions. Tools required - After lifting and securing the vehicle you need a selection of spanners and sockets, a suitable light and various pliers and screwdrivers. We used a genuine Toyota timing belt which is available at a discounted price from Lindop Bros. Pm Parts-King for details. The mileage on this car was less than 60k but we had reached the 5 year period. You will see that the serpentine and alternator belt are in perfect condition but if this were the second belt change at 10 years or 120k miles I would change them as a matter of course. They need a visual inspection at every 1 year or 10k miles service. Introduction The 2.0 litre D4D engine in the RAV 4.2 has a belt driven camshaft with a service interval of 5 years or 60k miles. Don't take any chances with this if you have reached any of the time limits or if you have acquired the vehicle with no previous history as the engine will be wrecked if the belt breaks. Its not an easy job by any means as you have to work in a very restricted space but with labour rates as they are, providing you take your time and make sure you check everything there is no reason why you shouldn't have a go if you have a reasonable amount of practical experience. If you are a novice then it would be prudent to get some help or take it on the chin and pay for a garage to do it. Method I am breaking this down into bite size modules. 1. Preparation As you can see in this photo the car and the owner are ready for action. Some of you will know him as Wollaston - the fully qualified lady's hair dresser with his birthday on Christmas day (definitely no relation to you know who!). We have positioned the car with the pulley side over the pit and lifted one wheel on a trolley jack and axle stand. This allows us at a later stage to turn the engine by engaging 5th gear while looking at the timing marks. If you are working off ramps you will have to turn the engine with a spanner when the time comes. Here I am removing the screws and trim clips to remove the wheel arch cover; To make access easier, undo the brackets from the ABS pump; Follow the brake pipes along the inner wing towards the bulkhead and you will see 2 clips. Undo these clips and now there is enough flex in the brake pipes to lift the ABS unit up and to the side to give more access for working and to get at the engine mounting bracket later. Now you are ready to start with the Serpentine belt. Working under the car, look up and you will see the tensioner right at the front near the radiator. This is arguably the fiddliest part of the job as you have to undo the lock nut (blue arrow) in the centre of the pulley and then undo that tensioner bolt (green oval) or "jockey" adjuster to wind the tension off the belt. I carefully lubricated the adjuster bolt with WD40 (don't squirt it all over the belt) then used a slightly stepped ring spanner for the lock nut in the middle of the pulley and managed to get a ratchet ring spanner to start the adjuster but soon managed to turn it with my fingers. Only back it off far enough to be able to manoeuvre the belt off the pulleys. Mark the belt with chalk to show the direction of rotation and if there are any cracks or splits bin it trust me you don't want to do this at the side of the road! Upper timing belt cover Use long nose pliers to gently squeeze the clips that hold the wiring loom to the cover and ease them forward (circled) then remove the 10mm head bolts and remove the cover it is a fiddle. I tried to get Wollaston to wax his arms for the photo but "no". This cover is a tight fit and you may find it easier to remove the engine mounting bracket first as shown below. Alternator belt This is the second poly-v belt and is delightfully easy to remove. Just get a 14mm spanner and ease down on the spring loaded centre bolt and pop the belt off. Mark the D.O.R. with chalk and again if there are any signs of deterioration in the belt, bin it. Although this is easy to get off, don't forget the serpentine belt has to come off first. Lower timing belt cover. Fairly straight forward but you will have to remove the spring loaded tensioner for the alternator belt. Just turn the centre bolt anti-clockwise and the pulley pops right off. Engine Mounting Bracket. I used a scissor jack and a block of wood to support the engine. Working from the top, use a deep socket to undo the upward facing bolt then go underneath and undo the other two. You can then undo the hydraulic engine mounting off the inner wing and wriggle that up and out. There are then six bolts in the bracket which hold it on of which the front two (17mm) go through the power steering pump. They are tight and awkward to get at. In this photo you can see a way of locking two spanners together to get some more purchase. It isn't the best use of tools but it works. Take the remaining bolts out of the pump and slide it up and off the bracket. Now to remove the bracket, lift the engine by an inch or so and then get an assistant to lift the ABS pump well up out of the way while you manoeuvre the bracket out through the top. You are now ready to remove the timing belt which is shown in this pdf. Although it describes the process, it probably assumes that the engine doesn't have a car wrapped around it which is why I have described the items additionally; Timing belt 4.2.pdf Timing belt insp 4.2.pdf Timing belt rep 4.2.pdf We didn't bother removing the glow plugs. Remove the crankshaft bolt with a 22mm socket. I used a long breaker bar and got Wollaston to sit inside with the car in gear and his foot on the brake. With 5th gear still selected, I then turned the elevated wheel to bring the engine timing marks around to the positions shown in the pdf. If you can't see them very well, highlight them with tipex or touch up paint. Undo the two bolts in the tensioner body and allow it to swing to one side and slacken the belt. When the belt is off, check all the pulleys and water pump. It isn't necessary to change any of the pulleys unless they make a noise when you spin them or the water pump unless it feels rough or it shows signs of weeping. NOTE; It is not necessary to remove any of the timing toothed pulleys as shown, this is for engine overhaul purposes only. There are kits available which include the belt and all the main pulleys and a tensioner. Don't take risks as the engine will be wrecked if the belt breaks or comes off. The warning at the beginning of the pdf refers to turning the engine while the belt is off. Doing so risks the pistons contacting the valves and bending them so the simple advice is don't turn anything with the belt off. Take the tensioner to the vice and providing there are no signs of leaking or damage, carefully press the plunger in until you can insert an allen key or pop rivet in to restrain it. Insert it just far enough to restrain the plunger as it is very hard to remove under the extreme tension. When you are ready to fit the new belt, do it in the order shown and try to avoid any slack between the pulleys as you go. This is easier said than done and took me two attempts to get it right. When the belt is on carefully check the timing marks to see they haven't moved. If they have all you can do is take it off and try again but if you envisage where the belt would be if it were a tooth out you will see it will be obvious. If this takes you all day, you must get it right as the camshaft or fuel pump being one tooth out will at best cause it to run really rough. When you are satisfied you have it right, insert the bottom bolt in the tensioner and then turn it until the top one lines up and fit that too. Tighten the two bolts and then pull out the pin that you fitted in the vice it is very tight and you may need a blood transfusion when you have finished knocking your knuckles about! When the belt is tensioned you need to rotate the wheel to turn the engine or if you are working off ramps temporarily install the crankshaft bolt. Don't forget that little dished washer with the lip facing outwards. Turn the engine CLOCKWISE twice to allow the belt to settle then check those timing marks again. When you are satisfied everything is OK you can start to build it back up. Clean all the parts and add a drop of oil to the threads of all the bolts. With all these components, fit all of the bolts first then tighten them. Loosely fix the engine mounting bracket to the engine and then securely tighten them. Lower the engine and then wriggle that engine mounting back in and fit the bolts through the engine mounting bracket. Fit the lower and upper covers, the crankshaft pulley and the belts in reverse order. Note the D.O.R. of the belts and for the serpentine belt it should be firm but you should be able to twist it by near enough 90 degrees on the longest run between pulleys. Refit the ABS pump and the pipe clips then check everything again. Once you are satisfied everything is in place and tight you can start it up. If it whines, you probably have the serpentine belt too tight so check and adjust if necessary. Checking the belts; 4.2 serp insp.pdf Serpentine drive belt inspection AC-4.pdf alt belt.pdf http://www.toyotaown...&attach_id=7007
  23. You will spill a little diesel so place some rags or an old sheet of ply under the car. With the air filter in place you can't see the wood for the trees so whip that off! Undo the hose clips at each end of the inlet pipe; ....and the finger clips on the breather pipe; .....then lift the pipe out of the way; Unclip the air filter cover and unplug the wires from the air flow meter, remove the filter and now you can get at the bolts in the bottom of the filter casing. Remove the 10mm bolts; ......and now you can see what you are doing with the filter quite nicely. You shouldn't be able to mix up the fuel pipes but if in any doubt just mark one or put a bit of tape on it. Use a pair of pliers to squeeze the clips and slide it down the pipe a little; Wriggle the pipes to loosten then pull them down off the filter head. Now by squeezing the anchor clips, unplug those "suspect" wiring plugs from the heater; .....and the water ingress switch; Now you will have to prize the plugs off the inner wing. One broke on this car shown but there isn't much you can do to avoid it and you might have to use a tie wrap afterwards. You could try softening the plastic by carefully pouring very hot water on it but don't lose any sleep over it! With everything disconnected you can unbolt the housing off the bracket, however, if you don't have a vice just loosten the filter with a filter wrench now while it is still attached; Lift the assembly off and take it to the bench; CAREFULLY grip it in the vice and use water pump pliers to pop that water switch off; It is false economy not to fit a new filter at the same time so using all new seals lightly oiled with clean engine oil or diesel, screw the new filter to the new head and the water switch to the bottom of the filter. It might be an idea to do this with the filter in the upright position to make sure the seals do not get displaced. Assemble the parts loosely first making sure the seals don't twist then carefully grip the head in the vice and nip them all up. They only need to be hand tight - don't get carried away! On my photos it is just a filter change so the old head is refitted. Take the assembly back to the car and refit it. Connect both plugs, slide the pipes back on and reposition the clips. Now with everything back on you will need to prime the air out of the system. Simply pump that black plunger on the head until it becomes quite stiff; Now that is done you can refit the air filter and hose and don't forget that plug on the airflow meter. When you start the engine for the first time it might cough a little bit as the last remnants of air are purged but don't worry about that. .
  24. Difficulty - Medium Time - About an hour Tools - A 24mm or 15/16AF spanner or socket, a 10mm hex socket or allen key for the transfer box and rear diff', a suitable draining container, a supply of rags and either an oil pump or at least one half litre oil bottle with a filler nozzle as shown in the photos. Frequency - Every 20,000 miles or 2 years (every second service). To get about under my car I put the front on the ramps and the rear onto some wooden blocks. Do not use brick or concrete blocks as they can crumble without warning. It is not necessary to have the vehicle level (fill the unit to the level plug) if you measure the oil in and I find the best way is with those half litre bottles which have a scale on the side. The transfer box and the rear axle take 0.9 litres of oil. Don't beat yourself up about measuring this accurately as 0.1 of a litre is about a table spoon full. Try to get 2 half litre bottles in each one. You will find that it is easier to squeeze the oil out of a part full bottle than a nearly empty one so I order 2.5 litres and keep transfering fresh oil into a container noting how much is going in. It will make sense once you start! In these pictures you will see the use of an oil pump but half litre bottles are just as good. It is often cheaper to buy oil in 5 litre drums so be sure to check the prices first. I have saved some old half litre bottles and decant the oil into them for measuring and filling. Starting with the gearbox; So 3.4 litres of API GL5 75W/90 You can remove the filler plug first to let the air in; Then drain the oil into a suitable container; Clean all the plugs carefully. Keep them to the same place they came from as some are magnetic to attract the debris.; Here is that pump I was on about! Only the !Removed! go to so much trouble!!!; To do the transfer box approach the drain plug from the front and to get at the filler - under the drivers door; 0.9 litres of Hypoid API GL5 SAE 90 (very important to use this extreme pressure [EP] oil) goes back in; This is a better view of the filler; Now around to the back and drain the diff'. You need a 10mm allen key; Add some more of the same oil as the transfer box - 0.9 litres;
  25. Pictorial on fitting the Net/Dog Guard into the rear of the RAV4. Time: 5 minutes Ease: Very Easy to Fit Firstly you need to un-clip the caps on the roof lining location holes. There is one on the left and one on the right. Then feed the spring loaded metal bar into each side, once in it will click into place. Then fasten the hooks to the retaining points on the boot floor, and pull the straps tight... Once in place you cant then use the roller blind second part of the parcel shelf, as this cant access through the holes of the net. Make sure any valubale items are not left in the boot as they will now be seen.