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Everything posted by anchorman

  1. Difficulty - Medium Time - The are 2 stages, one to adjust the brakes themselves and the other to adjust the cable. Cable 10 minutes Including brakes 1 hour. Tools - Jack and wheel brace, flat blade screwdriver, phillips No2 screwdriver, 10mm socket and suitable driver. Trim tool if available. 2 X 10mm spanners. Introduction The handbrake on all 4.2 RAVs is of the "drum in hat/exclusive" type. This consists of a small diameter drum brake which is positioned in the boss of the rear brake disc. Although a handbrake could be incorporated into the disc brake, these are becoming less popular because they rely entirely upon clamping force which requires high actuation force and are exposed to contamination if the vehicle should be used off road. Although the parking brake is efficient, it should be remembered that it is solely a static brake and should never be used dynamically because it is at a huge mecanical disadvantage - a tiny brake inside a large wheel. Even applying it just as the wheels are coming to a stand will eventually cause excessive wear of the components. As it is a static brake the linings should last indefinitely and the brake requires little maintenance. Once adjusted after the linings have bedded to the drum it should normally not be required again for the life of the vehicle. Occasionally the drum brakes may become inefficient due to lack of use, a build up of contaminants or incorrect use. If the linings have become wet (when the vehicle is waded to the depth of 300 - 500mm) the brake will be submerged and can be dried by applying the handbrake with a force of 10kgs for a distance not exceeding 400m at 30mph. If the linings have been replaced they can be bedded by using the same procedure but repeating the process after a cooling period of 1 minute a number of times as required. In this case the brake should be re-adjusted when completed. Once the brakes have been adjusted for the first time, any subsequent adjustment required is likely to be as a result of cable stretch. If you have no reason to suspect the brakes need further adjustment (you haven't renewed the linings etc) then it is acceptable to adjust the cable only. The cost for having the handbrake adjusted can vary. I have heard reports ranging from £25 - £65 which I presume depends on whether the foundation drum brakes have been adjusted or only the cable. Procedure To adjust the foundation parking brake shoes; Working on level ground safely chock the front wheels and release the hand brake. Observing all the usual precautions, jack up and remove one rear wheel. Ideally the vehicle should be jacked and supported on axle stands but if the supplied vehicle jack is used under no circumstances place any part of your body under the vehicle. As the disc is not fixed to the hub it is necessary to secure it by taking two of the wheel nuts and running them up to the disc. The hand brake adjuster is accessible through a rubber bung in the disc. Using a screwdriver, prize out the bung and rotate the disc (it will be stiff as you have to turn the transmission) until the toothed adjuster is visible - it will be somewhere near the bottom ; Use the screwdriver to engage the teeth of the adjuster; To adjust the brake you need to turn the adjuster as shown to expand the shoes; Turn the adjuster until it is no longer possible to move the disc then turn it backwards until the disc is just free. It is OK to hear it rubbing but it should not be tight. Turn the disc a full revolution to make sure there are no tight spots. When complete refit the rubber bung and the roadwheel. Go around and repeat the process at the other wheel but when finished do not lower the wheel to the ground. To adjust the hand brake cable; Go inside the car and use a trim tool or screwdriver to prize the back of the gear stick gaiter upward; The front of the gaiter is hooked under the lower facia so just pull it back to disengage and lift it up over the gearstick but do not try to remove it. Use the phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws from the front of the centre console; Fold down the back of the console and remove the cup holders to reveal the 2 fixing bolts. Use a 10mm socket and extension to remove the bolts then lift off the console. Note - it will be necessary to reach under and unplug the wire from the cigar lighter. Now with the console removed the handbrake and cable is very easy to see; Use the 2 X 10mm spanners to unlock the adjusting nut. Hold the bottom nut still and undo the top nut anti clockwise. This photo is from a 4.3 but it is the same; Now turn the bottom nut clockwise to tension the cable. The specification calls for 7 - 9 clicks with a pulling force of 20kgs (44 lbs) - thats a heavy pull! The main thing is not to over adjust it so you should still feel some free play at the bottom of the lever travel. Keep adjusting and testing little by little. If you start at the bottom and pull, you should not feel any resistance until about the third click. As a check go back to the jacked up wheel and check that it turns freely. Replace all of the trim in the reverse order remembering to re-connect that cigar lighter. Lower the remaining wheel and don't forget to finally tighten the road wheel nuts to the specified torque of 76 ft/lbs. As a final check take the vehicle to an incline where it would normally just roll and check to see that it does so in both directions. For those that might prefer the handbrake to be on with just one click don't forget that if it binds it will get hot and cause a lot of damage so whatever happens make sure you do these checks to make sure it is free.
  2. Part 2 Discs On this car I changed the discs. In this case, remove the upper caliper bolt; remove the caliper and hang it off the spring. Do not allow it to hang on the brake pipe; Then undo the retaining bolts and remove the carrier; If you intend using the disc again you should use 2 - 8mm bolts in the extraction holes as shown on this rear disc; Wind the bolts in until they apply pressure then gently tap the disc from behind. If you don't have a hide or rubber mallet use a piece of wood against the disc and then hit that with the lump hammer. In this case they were scrap so a swift smack with a lump hanner from the back side will knock them off. Clean the disc with white spirit; ......and the hub mating face with a wire brush; Then degreaser to get the hub as clean as you can you can; Clean the carrier; Then put the disc on the hub and refit the carrier - 98Nm (72ft/lbs) The discs are not fixed, they are trapped between the wheel and the hub. If you have problems with them trying to fall off use a couple of wheel nuts backwards to hold them in position while you work (rear disc shown); Now reassemble the caliper and pads as shown in part 1.
  3. Difficulty - Medium Time - about 40 minutes per side. Tools required - After lifting and securing the vehicle you need a 14mm and 17mm spanner, large screwdriver, g clamp, Coppaslip or similar copper based grease. The very best standard road going pads (and more than a match for most web available "performance" pads) are genuine Toyota which are available at a discounted price from Lindop Bros. Pm Parts_King for details. Introduction The front caliper is of the reaction type and is very simple to work on. When the brake is pressed, the piston pushes the inner pad into contact with the disc. When the inner pad has contacted the disc an equal and opposite force pushes the caliper (which is free to slide on guide pins) backwards and this in turn is connected to the outer pad via the caliper bridge. The outer pad is then brought into contact with the disc under equal pressure and the brake is applied. There are no return springs to release the brake. Only deformation of the piston seals and the action of the disc clearing the pads allows the brake to release. In a similar way there is no adjustment of the brake as the wear is compensated for by the piston travel and the caliper sliding on the guide pins. As the pads wear, fluid is displaced from the master cylinder reservoir and there is enough capacity of fluid to cater for fully worn front and rear pads. When new pads are fitted, the fluid is pushed back into the reservoir and for this reason the fluid should not be topped up between brake pad changes unless the fluid drops below the "MIN" mark or the warning light indicates that a leak has occurred and this case the fault should be investigated immediately. The only time the fluid should be topped up is at the two year service interval when it should be changed. Specifications Minimum pad thickness - 1.0mm Minimum disc thickness - 23mm Note; There will almost always be a lip of rust around the outer diameter of the disc and the greatest wear will always be on the wear path around 15mm from the outer edge of the disc. This is because there is a higher rotational speed at the outside diameter and also there is some "off brake" contact as the hub bearing allows some swaying movement of the disc when cornering. Brake Fluid - SAE J1703 DOT3 Note; TGB are currently supplying DOT 5.1 which can be mixed. Procedure You are responsible for making sure the car is safe. For best results use a trolley jack and axle stands. If you do use the supplied jack, remember that it is only a very temporary device for changing a wheel and under no circumstances should you risk putting any part of your body under the vehicle. You can make things a little easier by turning the lock as I have done in these photos. The steering should only be turned when the vehicle is on an axle stand and turning the wheel while using the supplied jack will possibly result in the vehicle falling to the ground - don't risk it! To change only the pads, undo the bottom retaining bolt with a 14mm spanner. If the back nut turns just use a 17mm spanner to hold it; Use a screwdriver to prize the caliper outwards; .......and swivel it upwards; If you are only changing the pads use the g clamp at this stage to carefully push the piston back into the caliper; If somebody has topped up the brake fluid it will be pushed out of the top of the reservoir. Either syphon some fluid out, collect as much as you can with rags or undo the bleed nipple on the caliper and allow the fluid to be displaced. If you do the latter, follow the instructions for bleeding the brake. Easiest way for future reference is do not top up between fluid changes as indicated above! Note the position of the pads and shims. They are a slightly different shape to each other and the kit comes with 2 pairs of different shaped pads. If you get them mixed up, look at the back of the old pads and you will see the shape of the piston on the inner pad - they can't really go in wrong. Use the screwdriver to ease them out of the carrier. Clean the shims and place them onto the new pads with the arrows pointing in the direction of rotation. You can apply a thin film of coppaslip between each of the contact areas as this will act as a squeal dampener. Just to clarify, the owner supplied these pads and I would always recommend the genuine Toyota ones. There is no need to apply anything to the genuine Toyota pads as they will be silent in operation; Clean the stainless steel locating carriers. These easily come out but to avoid being confused about where they go, keep them to their relative locations, if necessary doing them one at a time. This is a first class idea which allows the pads to slide on a low friction stainless steel abutment rather than directly in the cast iron carrier which often corrodes and can cause the pads to stick and wear unevenly. Clean them as best you can - a bit of wire wool works grand; If you are only doing the pads, place them into the caliper. One has a bent piece of metal which acts as a wear indicator by squealing when wear allows the pad to contact the disc; This goes at the inside and at the top; Here is an exploded view of the whole assembly; Drop the caliper back down, pushing the guide pins back to allow alignment and fit the bottom bolt - 26Nm (20ft/lbs). Important; press the brake pedal until it goes hard as this pushes the piston/pads out to the disc. Don't wait until you move the car as when the pedal goes to the floor you will panic and make a mess of the seat! If you do forget - don't forget you have a hand brake!!! Refit the wheel and lower the car - wheel nut torque - 103 Nm (76 ft/lbs) See part 2 to change the discs.
  4. Note - 4.3 Cabin Filter is shown seperately Difficulty - Easy Time - 5 minutes. Tools - None Frequency - Normal Conditions: 18000 miles or 2 years Dusty conditions: As needed UK Part No and price TBA by Lindop Brothers Toyota in subsequent post. Introduction To improve the environment inside the car, a clean air filter is fitted to the heater intake. This is intended to remove dust and particles that would otherwise enter the car. The filter fitted to the RAV is a particulate filter which has been electrostatically charged to capture the finest particles that are also positive or negatively charged and attracted to the filter. New filters are snow white but soon become blackened by the volume of tiny particles trapped within them. The result as well as a fresher interior is cleaner interior and air vents etc. A filter that is becoming clogged will also starve the interior of fresh air and windows will quickly steam up so it is very important to replace the filter as at the correct interval or more frequently under dusty conditions. Replacement filters with an activated carbon core may become available which also remove odours that may occur for instance in heavy traffic. The filter will soon become clogged with flies and leaves etc. The blackening is due to dust and pollen (even smaller than the pores in the filter) that have been attracted to the filter fibres. It is very easy to access this filter so I recommend that you remove and clean the filter at least every 12 months and if it looks clogged, replace it. Procedure Working from inside the passenger side, empty the glove box and squeeze the two stops to allow the glove box to swing down; You can now see the white plastic cover of the filter housing; Squeeze the plastic retainer.......; .........and withdraw the filter housing; Take a moment to study how the filter is located into the housing. Now push the filter element out of the and re-install the new one. Make sure the filter is correctly located under the retaining lugs; Now slide the housing back until it clicks; Lift the glove box up and push the stops back past the aperture into position and re-load the glove box. Thanks to Wollaston for the use of his 4.2
  5. Difficulty - Easy but fiddly Time - About 10 minutes Tools - None Frequency - As required. They will probably start to degrade and streak by about 6 months and will certainly benefit from being changed by about 10000 miles or 12 months. Price and part Nos to be supplied by Lindop Bros Toyota Thanks to Wollaston for his assistance and the use of his 4.2. Introduction. If your car is fitted with the original Toyota wiper blades it makes good economic sense to change only the rubbers instead of the whole blade. The original blades are very well made. They are powder coated rust resistant steel and you will notice how heavy they are. Just look at these steel pins through the joints; Often, replacement wipers are plastic (even the expensive ones) and after 12 months are starting to wear at these joints. The result is that they will start to flip at each end of the stroke causing a characteristic clunk, clunk during operation. As they continue to wear there is a high risk that the backing spine or pins will contact the glass leaving an arched scratch that will render the windscreen unacceptable for MOT test. To summarise:- If the wipers are the original steel ones replace only the rubbers with genuine Toyota ones. If they have been replaced with plastic replace the whole wiper blade with genuine Toyota ones and then subsequently just the rubbers. If the genuine wipers have been fitted for more than 3 years check them to make sure the pins are not worn and allow the wipers to flop from side to side. Don't run the wipers for long periods on a dry screen as this will cause unnecessary wear of the pins and blade. It will also reduce the life of the wiper motor. Always use the correct screen wash as this will reduce degredation of the rubber, resist freezing and not damage the paintwork. Never ever use anti-freeze as this will damage paintwork. A small amount of washing up liquid is acceptable in summer as this will assist in the rmoval of insects but it will also de-wax the car so avoid using it if you are not regularly polishing. Procedure To remove the blade, lift the arm and squeeze the plastic clip where the fitting attaches to the wiper arm; While squeezing the clip push the blade back toward the windscreen and when it clears the end of the arm then thread it under the hooked arm and clear; CAUTION - THE WIPER ARM IS HEAVILY SPRING LOADED. IT WILL STAY IN THE UP POSITION BUT IF IT FLIRTS BACK IT WILL CRACK THE WINDSCREEN. FOR THIS REASON IT IS WISE TO PUT A FLATTENED CARDBOARD BOX AT THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDSCREEN OR SIMPLY CAREFULLY LOWER THE ARM BACK TO LAY ON THE GLASS. Now take the blade to a suitable work surface. Look how the new wiper is shaped with a groove right at the top for the tension springs and a groove just underneath for the blade hooks. This what I refer to as the anchor end of the blade with a stopped recess; To remove the rubber, grip it at the anchor end shown in the above photos and pull quite hard to force it out of the stopped anchor location; Carefully slide the rubber complete with the stainless steel tension springs out fron all of the arm hooks. Look at the direction it is being withdrawn in relation to the blade fitting above Wollastons thumb; Now remove the tension springs out of the wiper rubber noting that there is a notch in each one designed to engage a matching lug in the rubber; Now carefully engage the tension springs into the new rubber making sure that the notches line up with the lugs and that the springs arch up in the middle so the wipers will be concave; Once the springs are fitted to the rubber you can slide it back one by one through the blade hooks. They are correctly fitted from the bottom of the blade i.e. if you look at the mounting adapter where it hooks onto the wiper arm it is pivoted. Feed the rubber in from the opposite end to the pivot. Make sure the rubber engages every hook of the blade and it will eventually come to the anchor end. At this stage carefully force the rubber just a little bit further until it pops through and locates in the anchor position (as in picture No 4 above). Now refit the complete assembly back onto the arm. If you haven't done this before it can be quite confusing but remember the other one is still fitted for you to look at! Lift the arm off the glass into the upright position. Position the blade under the arm so that the adapter faces the same direction as the hook as in the third photo above. Now lift the adapter so it is slightly inclined and manoeuvre the blade back and under the hook then up and forward to engage the hook. Pull it fully forward until it clicks. Carefully lower the arm onto the screen. It will now be streak and noise free.
  6. anchorman

    Aygo SDS

    Brilliant. Thanks Frosty.
  7. anchorman

    Aygo SDS

    Hello. Has anybody got a service data sheet for said vehicle? Regards Ancs
  8. A lot has happened in the last few days. I suppose you could say that this all started when a moderator pointed out to Charlie the TOC rules regarding trading. He now posts regularly on another RAV forum. Hoovie also got banned by TOC Management as a result of the fallout.. I have resigned my post as a moderator as I cannot condone or agree to this action.
  9. Don't forget the 6 speed box has a synchro on reverse.
  10. There are 3 positions for the switch - off, on and door. It is set to door right?
  11. I don't see what can go while it is parked. I wonder if the HP pump or something fuel delivery has failed. I have heard engines miss and backfire down to fuel problems and fuel filters are back in the news. It can't harm to try one.
  12. Oh yes! For infor, the filter housing on the later 4.4 model is indeed plastic as Guy says!!!
  13. BK and me have the 0W/30 version which is much more expensive. It is what is fitted in the factory of the new "Optimal Drive" rated vehicles and these auto's need all the help they can get with fuel consumption. For anyone running a none Optimal Drive vehicle, the 5W/30 ESP is perfect. On the attached info sheet, click the tablets to navigate around the page. Kingo, what would you charge for the indicated 5l of 0W/30TGMO oil?
  14. I know where there is a red one for 6k.
  15. anchorman


    Sierra's were frightening on a windy day.
  16. Kev. I always lubricate the thread so the nut goes in with as little friction as possible - you want to measure the resistance of the seat and the resultant back pressure on the thread, not the crud making the nut tight on the thread. You can oil the face of a tapered nut but it will just push it out so I tend not to. On the F1 nuts, you oil between the washer and the nut but not the surface that contacts the wheel. This photo shows the washer and no, it isn't my fingers it is a pair of gloves! GJ I always brush a bit of grease around the hub spigot. I never use coppaslip crud.
  17. It might make a bit when dead cold but you will need a starter to cure it.
  18. Never known it without the stud being abused first. I am dead careful with wheel studs. The stud is well oiled and I oil between the captive washer and the nut so there is no friction there and I get a true torque setting. You don't need a super calibrated NASA torque wrench, it is more important to get them tightened equally. Tyre fitters tend to wang them up with a gun then click a torque wrench over them just for show. By that time the air gun has probably taken them to twice their recommended setting - brilliant.
  19. I know where there is a very nice 2006 RAV with a new engine and lots of toys ;-)
  20. The ESP is the very low ash. It stands for Emmission System Protection. I would highly recommend this for any D-CAT engine or later models (facelifted 4.3s from June 2010) as they have a DNPR.
  21. I have had discussions too. It seems this bulletin is more about stopping dealers from ripping a 150 engine out IF oil consumption were to be reported. In this case they would only add the newer pistons and rings from the 4.4 (although another set from the early 150 might cure it). Yes indeed, the 4.4 has different pistons and rings and looking at Guy's, it also has black plastic cam covers. Don't forget these 4.4 engines need to take this engine to Euro VI so minor tweeks are inevitable. It would also be unneccessary to change to a 3/4 engine on the 150 as it incorporates all the revisions and mods beyond the 3/4 engine. I once listed all the differences between the 136/177 and the 150 and the gate type EGR was in there. My contacts have never done any work whatsoever to a 150 engine. I wouldn't be so bold to say that any work has not been done on vehicles country wide. I would still be interested in what is going on with the OP's engine.
  22. Webley Mk4 is very nice for a girl webs. Well done.
  23. There you go. It gets curiouser and curiouser........
  24. ..........but your OIL has only done 6000 miles, so should be ok, no........?eh?