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    Avensis Vermont
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  1. Fair point about noticing the ABS ring & I was looking for a solution. However not sure what you'er trying to achieve here - trolling in your lunch break as it's obviously not to boost either Lindop's reputation or sales - You've clearly missed a sales opportunity here as I am obviously now looking for a new hub, I even said that I wasn't going to my local dealer as they didn't deserve it. You were too busy being right & scoring points to notice.
  2. I didn't say CPA have a better understanding the the manufacturer. I didn't say they were right & you were wrong, I said that in the past they'd been quite reliable. I've been let down by them & am now quite considerably out of pocket so your levity, oddly enough, didn't make me laugh. Your inability to see that shows how well Toyota's customer service programme works....nearly as well as their R&D. I was also exactly NOT advocating clobbering it. A lot of what is written on Forums is not correct procedure, but it is often resourceful workarounds by hard-pressed people trying to overcome the c**p that comes their way. I'm now faced with having to bin the part I've bought and buy either a new hub (not from Yeoman Toyota), as yet unidentified & certainly more than the kit I just bought, or getting one from a scrappy which I don't want to do. BTW, this is on top of buying an Ivor Searle engine to replace the one which suffered from the special undocumented feature of 'oil consumption' . This is sitting in a local garage where they're waiting for me to bring the car in. No wonder I'm having a sense of humour failure.
  3. Glad you think its funny. This is what I was offered by CPA, who have usually been pretty good. Looking online, the whole hub assemblies have a different inner end (black cap) to mine so they're not right, & this part-assembly is what comes up for my car/year Is this the official Toyota customer service approach - c**p on them? Must be because Yeoman Toyota down here are a byword for customer dissatisfaction.
  4. Having drilled out the broken stud, it turns out that it should have slid out. If you're going to attempt this, do it very carefully and take great pains to tap evenly. I used a long-legged hub puller & hit the underside of that, to produce the force like a slide hammer, which didn't work for me. You could try applying a blowtorch to the hub area then some ice on the abs wheel to try & contract it a bit.
  5. Please can anyone tell me how to remove the sensor wheel/cog from the hub carrier? Looks like this (attached) This one didn't slide off! Don't want to knacker the replacement I've got to buy.... Cheers
  6. Thanks for the confirmation, wouldn't dream of going less than 10.9, but it was the size & shape issue. Not so much the cost, more of a pain getting to the dealer (car's in pieces and dealer in next town) over having a jiffy bag land on my doormat. However, given the total lack of anything remotely tempting, the dealer it is. It's pretty sobering, looking at those 4 small bolts holding the hub assembly on.....
  7. Some of the bolt heads of the rear hub assembly took a bit of a pasting due to stiffness. I would rather replace these, and I've got the other side to do. I've rummaged around on the web a bit but can't find M7 10.9 bolts (mostly only even numbers) - Are they dealer parts or can anyone recommend a helpful supplier? Also, they've got a flange/built in washer (for extra friction or load-spreading?) whereas normal hex bolts don't have this. Cheers
  8. Hi, In the process of replacing n/s rear bearing. Most of what I have read states that the bearing assembly comes as a complete hub unit, but the motor factors seem to sell just the carrier, which is what I bought as I am a well-seasoned home mechanic with a reasonable inventory of tools. As the Haynes manual was as much use as a chocolate teapot, I was on my own here. I dismantled the unit with no obvious major problems and refitted the new one. However on reassembly I found that the ABS wheel wasn't an interference fit (I'd removed it with a slide hammer) as it had a sheared off bolt stub - the remainder being in the stub axle? I assume that this should have screwed out - can anyone confirm this? The car is booked in for a new engine next week & I would like to be able to drive it down there (1.5miles) - If I reassemble this without the ABS will this cause any problems, as I can't see how I can obtain a replacement in time. Has anyone done this bearing replacement and got any advice, esp with regard to the ABS wheel? Any chance of just getting the wheel? TIA J
  9. Beagh, I wouldn't chance a 2ndhand one for this. I just want a satisfactory solution to this shameful saga. If getting the engine rebored & re-pistoned is a better solution, then I'm up for that its's just that, regrettably, these days the labour charges tend to make repairs more expensive than replacement. What do you get if you take it to Mr T? a short block or a rebuild? As long as it is satisfactory and means the car tands a chance of matching our previous Carina then I'll go for it. Also, without a recommendation, how do I know that an engineering firm/independent is any good? I tend to do most work myself, but a local independent has done stuff I can't face/too busy to do, but this engine investment is in a different league from a new CV joint or whatever. This is going to cost nearly as much as I paid for the car, but if we have a sorted car, it will be worth it. That's why I was after a Jap specialist - someone who had done this before or someone who does this sort of thing all the time rather than a generalist who gets cars through the MOT. Igor, Thanks. Superb site. Gives me a definite price with which to judge quotes. Cheers Jonathan
  10. We have had our Our 2001 Avensis for a few months. I somehow didn't come across the oil problem in my research otherwise I'd have hung on to our Carina.... It is coming up for 60,000 miles (has stamps for all services, but not all dealer stamps) and burns more oil than it should. I presume at this age Toyota won't help, even though the mileage is low? Even if they did, presumably the high rates they charge would offset any contribution they made? I am looking at getting new short engine - does anyone have an idea of the cost of this? Can I entrust this to a independent garage? Can anyone recommend one within 50 miles or so of Eastbourne, pref. a jap specialist? Cheers
  11. Fourty, If you have no luck with your dealer and if you mean the A5 sized book that lives in the glovebox, I can scan you some pages. Not sure I'd want to scan the whole thing though as our scanner is sloooow. Jonathan
  12. Outrageous! I got a quote for £17 inc postage for a thing the size of a couple of dice- a new one only costs £12 (when they eventually get it right) I had a similar experience with one of these portals where they quoted sixty something pounds for an oil pump & the new Toyota one was seventy something. Obviously a resource to reserve for desperate times J
  13. Cheers Gazza, I've sent off a request. Jono
  14. Hello, After replacing my water pump on my 96 Carina E ( 3hour job???? more on this in another post) I found that the 100Amp fusible link had blown. Found it was a Toyota dealer item. After much toing & froing the dealer managed to identify it & ordered it (2 days....) When it eventally turned up and having parted with over £12, it turned out to be too big. The dealer maintains there is only 1 100A listed & has gone away to look again (he wouldn't have it, until I faxed him a scan of the old & new side by side). Anyway, it has gone quiet at their end & I was wondering where else I might be able to obtain this mighty fuse. My original has lugs about 11mm wide, the replacement was nearer 16mm. Other dimensions are the same. Our local car breaker minces Toyotas straightaway, so no chance of getting one from there. Can anyone recommend either preferably an independent supplier who carries this sort of thing anywhere on the globe, or a competent Toyota dealer, or a workaround? Presumably other Far-Eastern cars might use these fuses? In the meantime, the car is stuck on the drive as this is the Mother Of All Fuses & the charging circuit doesn't work without it. Thanks in advance Jonathan
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