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About ffidrac

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  • Toyota Model
    Red Yaris 1.0 T3 (56)
  1. Happy Birthday ffidrac!

  2. Are you sure about that? I thought it was blue on all models... My 56 reg 1.0 T3 has a GREEN cold engine light. Definitely GREEN. Digital dash, kind of bluey/green.
  3. Is anyone near you a radio HAM? high levels of RF could 'swamp' the receiver and stop it from working. (happens to me if I'm talking on my handheld and I try to unlock the car, letting go the PTT button on the handheld does the trick!)
  4. ffidrac

    Ignition Key

    Keys are often obtainable on eBay. I do have key prog details but have never tried. PM me for details
  5. 2CV had a flat twin aircooled unit IIRC. Anyway I've had a 3cyl 1L car previously (Perodua Kenari) and I found it very willing after a little gentle running in (5 000 miles of 'reasonable' driving) it would do 0-60 in just under 10 secs and its top speed was 'straight down' with the needle (markings stopped with 100MPH at the 5 o'clock position). Haven't tried with the Yaris yet but I will say that the electronics seem take over from what I tell it to do! (Yes I agree about the throttle 'hang/rev up' also see following) There is a hill I travel up regularly with a roundabout at the bottom. My Kenari would accellerate up it in 2nd from a rolling start and be doing 30 by the time it was half way up, the Yaris from a rolling start 'jogs' up the hill accellerating gradually and finally reaches 30 when I get to the top. Now I know the Yaris is a bit heavier but the engine isn't labouring, nor is it really trying (pedal is pegged to the floor!) I think the ecu measures load etc and 'works it all out'(inc actual throttle setting) so as not to strain the engine. (1st gear from the roundabout has me changing gear half way up at 30 MPH) The Kenari has a 'proper' cable for the throttle and sucks air in when the flap is open! I feel that the 1L Yaris is a bit sluggish @ low RPM, but I have adjusted my driving to suit. (I like the better fuel economy with the extra comfort and air con too! (It did get hot in the Kenari in summer!) PLUS the extra safty rating and cheaper Insurance)
  6. ffidrac

    Mmt Gearbox

    Diddn't pay VAT on mine anyway 8thou 6hun and something. 1L T3 manual Ah-ha!, if it's a red T3 in the Cardiff area (usually) and a wheelchair in the 'boot' (you'll see it as the parcel shelf has to come out) with a big red 'T3' (T made from hexagons ala Torchwood (excellent series) logo) in the back window then give me a wave! lol (not quite a pensioner yet but I am a Grandad!)
  7. ffidrac


    I beg to differ. My own (homemade) dictionary meaning: Universal (fitment) dicscriptive, something that will fit everything equally badly and will not fit anything properly.
  8. Engine uses CAN BUS system, I think auto 'box does as well for gear display. I discovered that the int lights (cabin & boot) use a non-standard system :- Boot is a "standard" feed 12v to lamp ground return via switch. Cabin uses a 5v sensing system with ground via door switches - all door switches have their own feed to the ECU behind the glove box, the rear door feeds are internally conected inside the ECU but the front doors stay seperate. Haven't checked the lighting circuits yet but the tech info I have looked at seems to say not.
  9. Funny that, I took out the starter button blanking plug on mine to fit a extra power socket for the sat nav! All you need to do is find the 'start' wire at the ignition switch (or anywhere that is handy (starter solenoid is one place but not that handy!)). Wire 1 side of the button to this wire and the other side of the button to a 'beefy enough' ignition live (on when key is on). I used to use an ignition live to feed a relay with the negitive side of the relay coil connected to the 'charge' light wire from the alternator. The relay switched a fused battery live to the button. This method made the button 'dead' when the engine is running (some alternator faults also made the button dead, but then you needed to change the alternator anyway or be stuck with a dead battery miles from anywhere! (pre mobile phone days!!) showing my age now!).
  10. Never had a VW. Had a Yaris from new (since beginning October 06) and the only problem I've found is that there aren't enough hours in the day to enjoy it! 5000+ miles in 3 months and I don't drive it to/from work!
  11. ffidrac

    A Pillars

    Okay Ricky, it's really easy (unless you have curtain air bags. see below) this will usually do the trick for most recent cars (not sure what model you have but this works on my 56 plate Yaris T3 {including air bag bit}, my Perodua Kenari & the Kia Pride I used to have {no curtains}). 1. Inspect the trim first to see if there are any obvious screw covers, if there are remove covers (usually prise out) and remove screws. 2. Open door, pull rubber door seal off of the A post and leave hanging (or remove trims {floor} and fully remove rubber seal). 3. Use a wide flat blade screwdriver with some tape wrapped around for protection and prise the pillar trim away from the post (usually held by plastic 'poppers') which can be quite hard to 'unpop' (if you find the trim is bowing outwards without popping off, move the screwdriver closer to the end of the bow, this is where the popper is, and try again). 4. Pull away from the top and lift out the bottom section where it meets the dash. IMPORTANT FOR CARS WITH SRS CURTAINS READ THIS FIRST!! On the 06 Yaris models with curtain air bags the top 'poppers' are designed to break (for the air bag, you will see SRS marked on the trim where the top popper is) and when you prise hard the clips WILL break requiring a trip to Mr T for new ones, here's how to save pennies! follow 2. & 3. but when you prise the trim away do it VERY carefully, it will move a small amount as the bottom popper unpops. I then managed to get my fingers behind the trim and rotate the top clip through 90 degrees (quarter turn), this lets you slide the rectangular lug out of the hole in the trim and the trim then comes off as in 4. Replacement is the reversal of removal, as they say: SRS curtain place the rectangular hole over the top clip then turn back through 90 degrees so they are in original position before pushing the trim back. The door seal just pushes back onto the lip around the door (I usually tap it back with the heel of my hand to ensure proper seating) Hope this helps. Brian
  12. You want 'blowing all over the road' try my Perodua Kenari, high sided, narrow track and light weight. The Yaris is a breeze ( :D ) compared to that! (but it is still FUN ) By the way, if you think a Transit gets blown about try the LWB Merc Sprinter, taller and narrower than a Tranny & when empty they can handle like an empty crisp bag in side winds!
  13. Which Donnington is that? TomTom lists 4
  14. Cardiff, would travel 50 miles ish
  15. From my handbook: (2006 model) "4 Driving Range The distance the vehicle can travel with the remaining fuel is calculated and displayed based on the quantity of remaining fuel and past fuel consumption. The driving range display indicates approximated distance you can drive ......" So short trips / heavy loads / soft tyres / many red trafficlights etc between fills will reduce the average mpg figure used for the calculation. The book goes on to mention driving habits/road conditions all contributing to the actual range. Personally I keep a 'weather eye' on the Instantaneous Fuel Consumption and try to keep it as high as possible whilst still making good progress and fill up when the last segment of the fuel indicator flashes. (I take the time at the pump to check average consuption and it is usually between 40 & 60 mpg).