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Everything posted by cozmo

  1. I meant to say that my Corolla is using one litre of oil, that's little bit below 1 quart of UK Gallon... not 0,9 of gallon (well it will be too much)
  2. That's regular Toyota thing with valve guides and valve stem seals. My car (1990 Corolla 1.3) is using about one litre (0,9 UK Gallons) per 700 miles. Compression is OK, nothing is blocked, engine is running fine (110.000 miles). The life of valve seals or guides depends on fuel, oil quality and type of driving. My car was used heavy in hot weather, always with temperatures little above normal, which shortens the life of valve stem seals... If you see puffing smoke at startup and when you pulling on from the stop, but NOT while driving - definitely valve guides or seals. Sometimes it is very difficult to see smoke - it appears only on startup and when you accelerate from the stop (1st or 2nd gear), not while driving. And it is not a big cloud of smoke, it puffs... Also, driving in the city drinks oil like mad if you have worn guides/seals... but driving on the highways not (my car uses oil only in city driving, very, very little on highway), because constant driving (at constant rpm's) will not cause temperature fluctuations which will distort bad valve seals (when they are bad they will not seal when there is a frequent change in engine temperature, because they will be stiff like a rock if the temperature goes high, and they will seal when the temp is normal). So, when I went to my mechanic and ask him where is my oil he just rev the engine 4-5 times after an little bit of idling, noticed puff of smoke, smiled and said drive, don't worry - seals are gone, check oil regulary, when you have money replace the seals and maybe guides - that's it. It can't do any damage to engine, just CHECK oil regulary, don't let it down on LOW mark or below. This is the case only if you don't have an leaking seal on engine:) regards!
  3. Yeah, I had the same sounds in my Toyota - and it was bad ball joint. I tought that something is bad with my CV joint, or wheel, or transmission... but it was ball joint. It was in very bad condition. I've replaced it and now my car is totaly quiet (it feels like I have a new suspension in front). You can check it by yourself. Grab the tire and shake it left-right, up and down and you will hear some clicking or clunking noises. Also when you lift the wheel and grab the tire - shake it up and down and you will see that it has some play in it. Best regards, Ivan
  4. Yeah, I have the same problem! (same engine) Flap is closed, I crank it, it starts, then dies. Then I crank it once more it starts instantly and engine is working normal, but if you rev it first 10-20 seconds it wil die again. After half of a minute it is ok. There is no difference in cold and hot weather, only when it is cold automatic choke will kick in (at least it is working). Also, when the temperature is below 0 degrees I do not have that problem! Engine starts instantly and choke is working, and idle and acceleration are OK. So, I've looked on the flap connections and I've noticed that that link that is holding the flap has one little spring - well that spring is very loose and the flap doesn't respond like it should. When I work the flap with my hand few times up and down and then start the cold engine it will start without any problem. Also my mechanic says that this spring must be changed and whole flap mechanism must be tightened and sprayed with some cleaning spray. Try this and also I crank it with my foot on the gas pedal - it will start instantly. You don't have to floor it, just a little bit. Hope this helps
  5. Thanks! Sound is very very quiet and I thinnk that it is some sort of ping, maybe when you change the gear and press gas pedal engine is under load so ping may occur. The sound is now almost gone, it doesn't happen every time (maybe few times during half hour driving). Mechanic says that maybe we could !Removed! timing a little bit, but he thinks that no damage will be done, because pinging detonation is occuring under heavy load (going uphill, acceleretaion) and it will be louder and it will last much more (I hear it just for a split of second, it is barely noticable from inside, from outside also but sounds like a little ping). My alternator, water pump, and belts are OK, no strange sounds, no clicking from the engine, engine is very very stable and you don't know if it is working or not (I CANNOT believe that after 150.000 kilometers this engine is still quiet like the first day). Well, OK I have valve seals that are showing age (it is using oil a little bit) but this is normal for 15 years of driving, compression is normal, there is no smoke, engine is dry, oil is always very clean, fuel consumption is very LOW (below 7,5 liters per 100 KM in city, and 5 liters - that's little bit over one galon - on highway). Or maybe it is the fuel (I've filled up with new fuel and sound is almost gone)... Regards, Ivan
  6. Hello to all! I know how the engine pinging sounds, but either my pinging is strange either I am crazy. I hear this sound for a split second (it sounds like ping or valve chatter) only when I change the gear from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th gear (I have an EE90 Japanese Corolla, 2E engine). I've tried my engine under heavy load - I've tried to go uphill in 3rd gear almost from start and there is no pinging, also on acceleration and under extreme speeding (when pinging should occur) there is no pinging. Only when I release clutch pedal and press gas pedal. And only for a split second. Remember, it does sound like pinging (or valves chatter). Clutch is working fine, no strange sounds, gears are OK... engine is in very good condition... What is it? Does anybody knows? Regards to all, Ivan
  7. Hmmm... I am driving my car some 10,000 miles with bad valve seals... but there is no difference or change in engine sound or whatever. Only when it is cold (in wintertime)... when I start the engine for the FIRST and only the FIRST second when the engine is started it sounds louder then after that (only one second) it sounds normal (on cold start idle)... no high revings up and down... no knocking, pinging, ticking, rumble-tumble... With bad valve seals you only must check oil regulary and fill it up if necessary... it cannot be any damage, well maybe your plugs will be little bit olied, but when the engine warms up the oil will be burned (oil is for cleaning not for dirting the engine) and then you see a smoke on startup... or sometimes when you accelerate hard... The damage is done when you are out of oil or if you are driving hard in warm weather with oil on LOW mark... And ALL COLD starts damage the engine a little bit - but it will shorten engine life maybe 1000-2000 miles... that is nothing. COLD start cannot be prevented. In EVERY car oil comes back in crankcase - only when it is cold outside it takes few seconds more for oil to fill up the engine... If that is not the case, then the problem is different... From what you described your noise stays too long... it is not good... And one thing more for bad valve seals... oil will pass through them only when the engine is working... (when you turn engine off pressure will also pull some of oil in the ignition chamber) and the smoke on startup is the oil residues in the ignition chamber - in ALL engines oil comes back down in crankase when you are turn off the engine... if the oil does not back in the crankcase it IS NOT GOOD - oil MUST be (99% of oil) in crancase... if the oil stays too much in camshaft area it is not good - something is blocking oil passes. Normally, camshaft is oiled with thin layer of oil which is normal, but if it swims in oil... that's not good - maybe the other engine parts are dry! Check everything... regards, Ivan
  8. Hm! I have a corolla (Japanese sedan model from 1990), and it has around 80.000 miles on it... When it is cold outside, for example, 15 deg. celzius or bellow when you start the car (BUT only if car is not driven for 1-2 days) engine will sound a little louder (no rattling, jut rough louder sound) but ONLY for a second (my oil light goes off in a half of a second when I start it, hope it will stay that way for a long time ).. but only for a second, not longer, but you cannot hear that outside, just inside the car, it is not that loud... after that second my engine sounds normal, no rattling, no anything... just smooth sound... I think it is maybe so called - cold start, when it is cold, it takes more time for oil pressure to build up and it takes much more time for the engine to reach it's operating temperature... my, borther who is mechanic, says that oil light MUST NOT stay ON longer than two seconds... and during those 2-3 seconds you may hear louder engine sounds... because in cold weather oil takes a little bit more time to reach all engine components... but don't worry - it is normal, it will not harm the engine - just don't step hard on a gas pedal on cold starts - let it shake if it is shaking, but don't push the pedal... that will harm the engine on cold start But if you hear that sound for 30-60 seconds or more... that can be a some problem... he says that usually (in winter) it will take 2-3 seconds more for oil to cover all areas in the engine (it is not so noticable when it is warm outside) and in that period engine can be louder (shaking a little bit is normal... it is cold)... Also... it doesn't matter if you are low on oil (maybe if you are well bellow low oil mark)... but when the oil is between LOW and FULL mark engine HAS all lubrication it needs (on my corolla you have 2,9 litres of oil, or 2,1 - 2,2 on LOW mark, so the engine is designed for that). Maybe, maybe if you are out of oil you can hear rattling, on start and even when the engine is hot...
  9. Hi to everybody! I have a 1990. Corolla (carburetor model), sedan version, and recently I've drove the car over VERY VERY bumpy road - so now I have strange "clung" sound coming from right rear wheel area. I've heard that sound before that but very quiet and rare... now it's louder and I hear "clunk, clunk" when car hits bigger bumps on road. I've checked and noticed that my rear right shock absorber is leaking. Is it possible that shock absorber develops that kind of sound? Also when I hit bigger bumps, righ rear wheel will swing a little if I drive very fast, but otherwise - car is very stable (I have no problems when I hit the brakes hard - no swings and bumping). It sounds like metal on metal "clunk", but the springs and everything else looks very good - only shock absorber is leaking. Mechanic says that leaking shock absorbers can be very loud if the piston inside is broke or loose. Is it true? maybe is something else Best regards to all, Ivan
  10. Hi! It happened to me on my Corrola (same thing like yours, when I stop, for example on red light, or when the engine is on the idle it will stall and stop). It was igniter module. Check igniter and ignition coil. On my car, igniter couldn't transmit strong enough spark for spark plugs, but when you rev it up it will "woke up" and transmit the sparks on plugs). I've changed igniter and now everything is fine. But, sometimes ignition coil will do the same thing. And remember: check both, because broke ignition coil will damage the new ignition module very very fast. best regards, Ivan
  11. Hi! Toyota 1.3 and 1.6 litre engines are known to drink a lot of oil because of the stiff valve seals - during the years engine is operating in various temperature ranges and these conditions (usualy frequent city driving with a lot of stop-go) can burn your valve seals so they can not seal the valves any more and then oil slips through the valve guides into the cylinders. If you se blue smoke during start up or when you are, for example, accelerate after a stop that indicates that yours valve seals are gone in the wind. But, if you see a lots of blue smoke DURING driving, all the time, that can be sign that the piston oil rings are broke and maybe you need a new valves. Check compression and spark plugs. If the compression test is OK, you have good valves and piston rings in normal condition - so you can only replace the valve seals (it is not so expensive). Bad thing is if you have low or non-equal compression and if you have too much oil on your spark plugs. That can indicate serious problems... best regards, Ivan
  12. Hi everybody! We have a guy here in Belgrade who is doing 600.000 km and still driving 1990. Japanese Toyota Corrola with small 1.3 2E engine. He only replaced head gasket and valve seals at 500.000 km. Other than that - only a regular maintenance. It's a record here. For first 12 years of driving he had an original toyota cooling fluid in the system!! What a guy! regards, Ivan
  13. Hi! I think that the best solution is to talk to dealer again. I know that my oil filter is holding up oil inside, and I never fill oil to the maximum - even when I am changing the filter. It happened to me two times in the beginning and everytime I overfilled (let's say 100 gramms), engine burned that oil in matter of 10-20 miles! So - it is not good. From my experience (I have many friends with the same Corolla, from year 1990, they always put oil little bit above half between LOW and FULL, and never let it get down to LOW, lowest is, from our experience 5mm above LOW - this will not damage engine in any way). Maybe your dealer didn't changed your oil filter, so there was oil left in it? I've change oil and filter every 3000 miles, even if my car is burning about 1 litre of oil per 1,000-1,500 miles due to old valve seals. Always change oil - even if you add it every day - I know one guy who drove Corolla for almost 300.000 miles - he added almost one litre of oil per two days - but regulary changed the oil and filter - and he changed only valve seals and head gasket and engine is like a new one! (Mirracle, isn't it). That's a record in this country. He even had, for 13 years ORIGINAL Toyota cooling fluid in system - he never changed it for 300.000 miles, and the head gasket only went down when his thermostat stuck. And he is doing now almost 350.000 miles. Crazy stuff.
  14. Hi! My e-mail is: ivan@burda.co.yu Regards, Ivan
  15. Hi! If it's Japanese (like mine) and it's built after 1988 it is the last one: 2E SOHC 3 85 1295 74@6200 76@4200 73 77.4 They are the same engines, slight difference is due to catalysator and rating of power between the countries. I have no catalysator - it is removed by Toyota here in Belgrade, because in 1990, in former Yugoslavia nobody used unleaded fuel. You have redesigned body model, mine it's manufactured from 1988-1992. They used reinforced valve seals in engine after that, because they discovered that 90% of engines manufactured from 1988-1992 had weak valve seals (it was a fault of a company who delivered seals to Toyota). So, I think you don't have to worry about that :) I have a new maintenance specs, I can send you to e-mail if you want :) regards, Ivan
  16. Hi! First - it is not good for oil level to be above FULL mark. It can make a foam and excessive wear on the engine, because too much oil will "choke" the engine. If it's too low you know what happens. Oil filter on my Toyota Corolla (but it's the old one from 1990, but I think that they are usig the same technology) has the valve which is holding about 200-300 gramms of oil in the filter which is very, very helpfull during cold starts. Some other oil filters (not genuine Toyota) don't have that valve. So, check with the dealer again. Anyway, in my 2E engine if you replace the filter you put 3,1 - 3,2 liters of oil and it's on the FULL mark, and if you don't change oil filter - only 2,7 or 2,9 liters to be aproxx 5 milimeters BELLOW full mark, because there is 200-300 gramms still in the oil filter. And, for that engine IT IS NOT recommended for oil level to be above 5 milimeters bellow the FULL mark if you don't change the filter. When you change oil and filter and pour the oil to the full mark, it will drop 5 mm bellow full mark after engine start and it will stay on that mark - filter is sucked oil inside (When you change oil filter you will notice that it holds oil inside). But, my Toyota dealer is recommended that the oil level is best to be (again FOR MY ENGINE TYPE) on the half between the LOW and FULL, because Toyota engines are extreme sensitive for too much oil (above FULL). And don't let it get down bellow LOW mark. For 13 years of driving, and 100.000 miles with regular changing oil and filter I had no problems. There is no sludge in the engine (oil cap and valve cover are clean as a new one) - everything is dry and in good condition. Regards, Ivan
  17. Hi! I had same problem with my Corolla 1.3. First it had problems when it was lots of moisture in the air. And it get worse. You start up, it runs good till engine gets operating temp (about 10 minutes), and when you are at stop (idling) engine will stall, or even it will run alone when you turn off ignition key. Then it cannot be restarted, and I have to wait about 2-3 minutes and I can restart engine - and it runs great when you press the throttle pedal. But, when you are at idle engine will stall, sputter etc... and story goes again :) Problem was - igniter. It was 13 years old, and operating temperatures of engine, moisture, rain, snow did the job during the years. I've changed igniter and engine was like a new one! No problems since that - it starts great in every condition you may have :) Now it runs without vibrations on idle, engine is less noisy, consuming less fuel... etc. But, my mechanic said it is good to check igniter coil and distributor cap as well - it will produce almost the same problems. I've replaced only igniter and water pump in 13 years and almost 100.000 miles. Now it's time for valve stem seals - they are dead and engine is consuming about 1 litre of oil per 700-800 miles. It is normal for valve stem seals (because compression check is perfect and I have no cooling fluid losses in last 20.000 miles and fluid is clear without any oil inside). If you see the blue smoke during startup or when idling and if the smoke dissapear when you are driving - change valve seals. Many owners think that their car nead to repair engine - if you don't notice any decrease in performance and if the engine is clean and has compression in range - vlave seals are the reason for burning oil. It's a flaw on almost all Toyota engines - bad valve seals. regards, Ivan
  18. Hi! Is it leaking down (do you see oil spots bellow the car) or is it just wet around that spots? My Corolla (2E engine) is little wet around crankcase seal, but that's normal (13 years of driving)... crankase seal is showing age :) But, if it's really leaking down to the floor, check oil seals... Here in Belgrade, Serbia, Toyota oil seals are around 10-15 USD maximum price, and labour is about 10 USD for changing one seal (doesn't matter which oil seal is in question). I don't know the price for other countries. And I think it is better to replace the seals, because engine will be dirty - oil can sometimes smell very bad and it can produce smoke around engine which is little bit dangerous and your cooling performance will be reduced - clean engine is easier to cool than dirty one. Regards, Ivan
  19. Hi! I have Corolla with the same engine. Mine is from 1990, and there are slight differences on engine depending on year that car was built: Engine Type Valv/Cyl Year Disp. BHP Torque Bore Stroke CR stock boost+other remarks /angle [*=JIS] [lb ft] [mm or inches] 2E* SOHC 84 1295 65@6000 72@3800 2E SOHC 3 85- 1295* 82@6000 77@5200 73 77.4 9.3:1 2E SOHC 3 85 1295 74@6200 76@4200 73 77.4 When I was on my technical for car registration, empty car weighted aproxx. 900 kilograms (or about 1800 pounds) My engine is the last one with 74 HP, which was used in Europe models from 1988-1992. I have that car for 13 years and almost 100.000 miles on it, and the only problem with that engine are sensitive valve stem seals - engine can burn very big amount of oil because of valve seals (they are sensitive to stop and go city driving). But, Toyota released improved valve seals that will last minimum 150.000 miles with higher engine temps than normal. That's the only problem with that engine. (If you have blue smoke on start-up or when idling for a long time, but NOT while you driving it, that's the broken valve seals). I have manual so I can type some informations - just ask what you want to know. And I have updated servicing charts, so... ask:) BTW, for 13 years I've done only regular maintenance (oil and filter is a MUST on 3.000 miles), and I've only changed water pump after 70.000 miles... Regards, Ivan, Belgrade, Serbia
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