Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Registered Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


johnan last won the day on August 23 2013

johnan had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

41 Excellent

About johnan

  • Rank
    Guru Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Gender*
  • Toyota Model
    Aygo Xclusive, was CH-R, iQ2 manual, Aygo MK1. Also MG Midget.
  • Toyota Year
  • Location
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
    Road Trips
    Food & Drink
    Computers & Electronics
    Arts & Crafts
    Sports & Leisure
    Health & Beauty

Recent Profile Visitors

7,904 profile views
  1. johnan

    Dash cam

    I have always used the lighter/12v socket to power my dash cams mainly as it is a very convenient and easily removed installation, and personally I would not be too keen on someone like a Halfrauds fitter messing about with my car, as they are not expert on any particular make. I could hard wire them myself but it is not really worth the bother. It is simple enough to lead the wire across from the socket, hidden behind the panel under the steering wheel and then up behind the A pillar trim, across behind the front edge of the roof lining to the camera. Using wire ties as necessary to keep
  2. From a technical point of view, if the engine turns over for some time before it eventually starts, replacing the starter motor would not be the first thing I would do. It must surely be fuel supply, possible sensor issue not telling the ecu that an enriched fuel supply is needed for a cold start, or an ignition problem. The dealer should be checking these areas first , I would have thought. As it is such a new car, the problem could be down to just one component not working properly and possibly has never worked completely correctly from new...just a rogue part, due a to manufactur
  3. I think Gampla has the right idea..if the car is only used for short trips it could need what I think is called an "Italian tune up", that is drive it at quite high revs on the open road to get the cat nice and hot and hopefully blast any contaminants out of it so it starts working properly again. The cat could be beyond saving but it is worth a try first. That treatment certainly got one of my cars through the MOT after it had initially failed due to excess emissions. There are products like Cat Clean, I think, that could help too.
  4. No idea of price but I expect the button should be available to buy if you know the part number, and easy enough to fit into the hole...but connecting it up would be a nightmare I think, as the non key entry, comfort access or whatever it is called, is probably linked to it in some way as that is the standard X-clusive spec. Whole different wiring loom possibly?
  5. Is it just one clunk, or does it repeat as the wheels rotate? Could be some suspension component being loose and clunking , ie taking up play, in the opposite direction when the car goes the other way, so to speak. Needs to be checked. Whatever it is, it ought not to happen but the dealer should be able to identify and fix it easily enough...assuming you got some sort of warranty and you have not had it very long.
  6. As flash22 suggested, is it possible to check the crank position sensor output? I would think a OBD reader would report a fault with it but maybe not. That sensor would control the ignition timing, via the ECU. But again, you would think it would default to a get you home default mode if a fault was detected. Valve timing is by chain and would be very unlikely to have changed.
  7. Have you tried swapping the engine temperature sensor, as mentioned earlier?
  8. In the old days I would say the "choke" is not working ie the enrichment device you used to operate by pulling a knob on the dashboard to give a richer mixture, just for starting. However the enrichment needed for starting a cold engine these days is controlled by the ECU which responds to a signal from the engine temperature sensor to give a richer mixture when the engine is cold. If the sensor is faulty it could cause non starting, but...you have checked for error codes via the OBD port and if the sensor is faulty I would expect an error code to show up on the reader, which you say
  9. Aygo engines have a timing chain, not a belt. Alternator/ water pump drive belts ( used to be called fan belts but the fan on an Aygo is electrically driven) can make noise if tired or not as tight as they should be, especially when moving off or just after starting when the battery demands extra electrical charge. Should be checked when serviced but ask for it to be checked specifically or they may not bother to check the tension if the belt looks OK.
  10. I have an accurately calibrated Scangauge on my Aygo and on my normal runs it gives a reading of 54-56 mpg . If AC is on it is less and if the weather is cold, it is also less.
  11. I have no idea really but assuming no connections came adrift while you were doing your maintenance, then maybe you gave the ECU a fright when you were working with the battery earth and it has taken time to settle down. Depending on how sophisticated, or not, the computer in the ECU is, sometimes they behave strangely when batteries are disconnected. A few years ago I had a car that needed to go to dealer if the battery needed to be changed as a reset of something was required, probably not relevant in this case as Aygos are quite basic and I know people change their batteries without dr
  12. That will be a spring insulator, which helps to cushion the spring while in use. It needs to be put back before it falls out completely. You could jack the car up, take the wheel off and you might find the compression is lessened enough for you to prise it back into place, or if it hasn't you could use a couple of spring compressors to compress the spring a little so you can get it back into place. Or speak nicely to a garage ...it is not a big job, or shouldn't be. By the way, some MOT testers are not keen on spring assisters (ref. your other post) while others don't care.
  13. As Kisbel suggested, are there any warning lights telling you there is something wrong? Do they all come on and go out when the engine starts? If there is no “oil pressure low” warning light lit while driving or at idle, then the bearings in the engine are probably OK, and if it is not burning oil the cylinder bores are probably OK too. Water pumps and alternator bearings can make strange noises when worn. keep an eye on the oil level, and see how it goes. These wee engines are noisy in an off beat three cylinder sort of way, when accelerating briskly, which can sound odd i
  14. Although it was supposed to be a private sale, he was probably a shady dealer working from home. There are some awful people out there. These engines go on forever if looked after, ie regular oil changes and level checks. You could buy a second hand one but a few months warranty from a private person or even a dodgy dealer sounds a bit iffy..if it goes wrong you are back where you started. I would trade it in and get rid to a dealer so if he decides to sell it on he should have the facilities to repair it or sort it out somehow for the next owner but he should just scrap it, but tha
  15. Apart from the pump perhaps not running , the replacement tank could have had dirt or rust in it that has become disturbed and blocked the outflow to the pump, although there is usually an in tank filter in most cars. Can you blow back down the fuel pipe from the engine end? Whatever was causing the tank not to be able to be filled is an interesting question, was the fuel filler just cutting off as if the tank was full or was something else causing the problem?
  • Create New...