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johnan last won the day on August 23 2013

johnan had the most liked content!

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About johnan

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    Aygo Xclusive, was CH-R, iQ2 manual, Aygo MK1. Also MG Midget.
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  1. That will be a spring insulator, which helps to cushion the spring while in use. It needs to be put back before it falls out completely. You could jack the car up, take the wheel off and you might find the compression is lessened enough for you to prise it back into place, or if it hasn't you could use a couple of spring compressors to compress the spring a little so you can get it back into place. Or speak nicely to a garage is not a big job, or shouldn't be. By the way, some MOT testers are not keen on spring assisters (ref. your other post) while others don't care. I am not sure on the latest rules about them, but it may be worth checking if you have a friendly MOT place.
  2. As Kisbel suggested, are there any warning lights telling you there is something wrong? Do they all come on and go out when the engine starts? If there is no “oil pressure low” warning light lit while driving or at idle, then the bearings in the engine are probably OK, and if it is not burning oil the cylinder bores are probably OK too. Water pumps and alternator bearings can make strange noises when worn. keep an eye on the oil level, and see how it goes. These wee engines are noisy in an off beat three cylinder sort of way, when accelerating briskly, which can sound odd if you are not used to it!
  3. Although it was supposed to be a private sale, he was probably a shady dealer working from home. There are some awful people out there. These engines go on forever if looked after, ie regular oil changes and level checks. You could buy a second hand one but a few months warranty from a private person or even a dodgy dealer sounds a bit iffy..if it goes wrong you are back where you started. I would trade it in and get rid to a dealer so if he decides to sell it on he should have the facilities to repair it or sort it out somehow for the next owner but he should just scrap it, but that is up to him. If he gives you a decent trade in deal jump at it! The weak point on these cars is usually the clutch, make sure it works ok but it is not the end of the world if it needs adjusting or even replacing...keep away from the automatics though.. By the way, these engines don't have timing or cam belts, they use a chain which is basically maintenance reason I chose an Aygo! Good luck, I am sorry to hear of your bad fortune with the car.
  4. Apart from the pump perhaps not running , the replacement tank could have had dirt or rust in it that has become disturbed and blocked the outflow to the pump, although there is usually an in tank filter in most cars. Can you blow back down the fuel pipe from the engine end? Whatever was causing the tank not to be able to be filled is an interesting question, was the fuel filler just cutting off as if the tank was full or was something else causing the problem?
  5. I would like to change it to UK format too, but it doesn't look like it is possible with the options available in the built in menus.
  6. johnan

    Engine rattle

    A worn, damaged or loose engine mounting can cause very nasty engine shakes when a clutch is being engaged.
  7. johnan

    Engine rattle

    That is good thinking about it being a clutch fault...those symptoms do sound like a problem clutch but as it is an “auto” I didn’t really consider it as a possible cause, but of course there is a clutch in there somewhere!
  8. As furtula says you can buy sensors for MUCH less than what Toyota want. My first action would be to have the sensor changed, either by yourself or get a mechanic to get one and fit it, and see what happens to the light. If it goes off and stays off, problem solved. That should not be too dear.
  9. Changing the sensor would take a local garage very little time as it is easily accessible once the car is raised, so I don’t think that could cost too much. The sensors themselves , from limited research, don’t seem too dear either. The catalytic converters on Argos seem to last well, at least there does not appear to be much forum activity discussing them which normally is a sign of a recurring problem component. If the cat. has failed the emissions will be not acceptable for MOT standards, but if only the sensor has failed I don’t think that will be the case. I would find a reliable, friendly local garage/mechanic and have a chat is a common problem with older cars. 50,000miles on a Toyota 1,0 litre engine is not a big mileage, they seem to go on for ever if looked after! I hope you have a successful outcome. By the way, I think £850 for a clutch fitted at a Toyota dealer is a good deal!
  10. These sensors do fail sometimes , not necessarily Toyota ones, which will be supplied by Bosch or some other company that specialise in such things. Last year I had the same EML fault code come up on an MG TF at 45.000miles. In my case the problem appeared to be that the catalytic converter had fallen apart inside and wasn't cleaning the exhaust gasses as it should and hence the EML light and O2 sensor fault code. I tapped the body of the cat. with a hammer and could hear loose bits and pieces inside! I am not sure if others with Aygos have reported failed cats. in the past, or if it is a recurring would think it would appear in the forum if it was/is a common issue. I obviously changed the cat. converter and I also changed the O2 sensor while I was at it, and the EML light has not returned. Neither item was very expensive but I was lucky to have the nuts and bolts relatively easy to undo, which was a bonus.
  11. They may have somehow disconnected the wire that attaches to the sensor during the clutch repair, perhaps? That would have been apparent during a post clutch repair road test I would have thought, by the EML coming on...maybe the driver didn’t notice it! i don’t see how there can be any other reason for an O2 sensor fault being related to a clutch job, other than it failed coincidentally as the clutch work was being done. An O2 sensor replacement is a straightforward job, unscrew and replace, (removal of the old one can be difficult due to seizing of the threads in the exhaust pipe, though) so if that is all that is required it should not be too expensive. Although of course, Toyota may change a silly amount for it. Any “local” garage could do it.
  12. My first 2009 IQ had no vibration problems, or my previous Aygo (same basic engine) for that matter, up until I traded it in in 2011. My next IQ , which was the updated 2011 model has never had a vibration problem. The lack of power and clean pickup at low speeds is due to the well known EGR troubles of the earlier models, perhaps this also has an effect on the likelyhood of rough running as the engine builds up deposits etc, with age. They changed quite a bit from the first models to the second generation ones (2011 on), the redesigned EGR valve being one example of this.
  13. johnan

    My First Iq Puncture

    I always carry a spare, it is just too much hassle not to, both during the immediate trauma of the puncture and then later when you find no-one will repair it and you have to buy a new tyre.
  14. johnan

    Full Service

    In all my years of IQ ownership, and service plans, I have never had an a/c filter checked or changed by MrT, even though it is supposed to have been at least checked. I know this because I have had a piece of anti rattle wadding blocking the filter removal, which has not been touched. I have bought my own filter and changed it myself. So if you didn't know to do that, some time down the line the system would become in operative and you would have to take it to MrT to fix it.......ching, ching... It really is quite depressing how unreliable dealer servicing has become, yet is supposed to be a necessity.