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Everything posted by Chris81

  1. Thanks thats a useful site. What I don't understand is it how it lists several wheel/tyre options for the car. So my Yaris says 185/55/15 or 195/50/15 however if I were to fit either of these on my 15" t-sport wheel, the rolling radius would be different so wouldn't it knock the speedo out? I always thought the list of options equated to the same e.g. 155/80/13, 175/65/14 were exactly the same rolling radius, but obviously if there are multiple options for a 15" rim they can't all add up to the same???
  2. Does anyone know if corolla alloys will fit on a mk1 yaris t-sport without any spacing or offset or other issues? These are the alloys in question, a 15" rim, same as the yaris standard t-sport https://www.gumtree.com/p/wheel-rims-tyres/toyota-corolla-alloy-wheel-spare-wheel-15-inch/1138004382 I think these corolla alloys came with 195 60 15 as standard, so to keep them in line with the yaris t sport (185/55/15) I presume it's best to fit 195/55/15 to these corolla tyres or would that be a problem?
  3. Ebay just brings up a load of rusty old tat so I'm wondering if anyone on here has a set (or part of a set) of T-Sport alloys for sale. Buying new (at £230+ per wheel) isn't an option.
  4. It's good practice not to use the handbrake when you're leaving the car standing for more than a week or so. Just ask any breakdown service based near an airport. Call outs to hammer the back drums with a screwdriver keeps these guys in work.
  5. So the car was sold with a minimum 3mm on the tyres and 4000 miles later they were an advisory on an MOT. Sounds perfectly normal to me that they'd gone down to borderline legal limit in that time. Other than that, a paperwork error and air con (which may not be covered under the warranty terms). It's hardly cause to dismiss a whole brand. Your beef is with the dealer by the sounds of it, not Nissan at large.
  6. No need to overreact! No cheap belts. Genuine Toyota ones fitted by Toyota mechanics. It's just the way these cars are. And if they're glazed already then blame Toyota. You may have a point but if you ask a mechanic to check all those things you know he'll just laugh when you're back's turned and fit some new belts.
  7. Out of curiosity, is the auxiliary belt meant to do that or does it mean there's a problem with it? Well they're not designed to squeak/chirp/flutter, but they can do when they're cold. I had new belts put on mine a year ago but they soon began to chirp again when cold. Many many cars do it, as I can evidence in my work car park at home time on a cold damp day!
  8. Quite possibly the auxilliary drivebelt. Were weather conditions wet/damp at the time? Could you only hear it at idle? If you increased the revs to 2000rpm (ish) did it go away? Timing chains can rattle on older cars but yours is new!
  9. Is the heater control set fully to the Blue (Cold) setting? If so, is the warm air coming through when the car is moving? I had a similar problem on a Fiesta I once owned. It was a stuck heater control valve, although I've never heard of this happenning on a Yaris.
  10. Another reason not to buy a car with pointless gimmicky technology. Keyless-entry, stop-start. More-to-go-wrong.
  11. Cheers that's good to know. I bet your retired old neighbour is thinking about getting rid of it before it happens again. Ah the joys of second hand cars. Like a wise man once said to me, 'you're just buying other peoples problems'.
  12. Did he tell you what the problem was exactly? Was it the head gasket? I've heard of timing chain problems on the mk 1 Fabias (pre 2007) but thought this was sorted on the newer models. I can't imagine the dealer admitting it was a common problem.
  13. The 1.0 Yaris of that age is a 3 cylinder engine isn't it? Might explain the different engine note. As as aside, what are people's views on 3 cylinder engines? We're looking at the Skoda Fabia 1.2 12V around 2008/09 which makes 70bhp and is probably similarly priced to the Yaris of that age but is much more practical with a bigger boot and 5 doors as standard. 'Bigsmall' my eye!
  14. I've had one for years and I'd say quite a lot of parts are specific to the model. Exhaust and suspension is different to the lesser models. Pattern parts are widely available though so you shouldn't have any trouble maintaining it. It's got a lot more grunt than the 1.3 so I'd say go for it.
  15. Can you remap a normally aspirated car and expect any sort of gain? I thought re-mapping only had any real benefit in cars fitted with a turbo. If you want to squeeze a few more horses out of it you'd be better off trying to get it to breathe better, so look into air filters and exhausts. However, you're still only looking at slight gains, nothing significant.
  16. I've never had my key fob battery changed yet, despite having had 3 Full services off my dealer. I think I'll do it myself - straightforward is it not?
  17. I still have first hand experience with the mk 1 Yaris (my t-sport and a friend's 1.0) and even in the extreme weather of winter 2009/10 when the outside temp was down to -10, the blue light goes out pretty quickly. In fact, I've noticed it go out whilst the car is sitting idling for 15 mins or so as it warms up, with the heater on full heat, blower on full and pointing at the windscreen to defrost it. The 'blue light' turns off when the coolant reaches a set temperature, dictated of course primarily by the engine internals. On the 2 mk1 Yarises I know, the blue light goes out after a couple of miles of driving regardless of the outside temperature, so if it's still on after a 20 mile run, then something's wrong somewhere.
  18. I know this man is a moderator but why does he post such nonsense all the time. None of this is correct at all.
  19. I sometimes notice this on my old shape yaris but put it down to the road surface. The CV joints on your driveshafts can cause an audible clicking noise and you can feel a 'rumble' through the steering wheel if they're damaged. Does it do it in both directions - i.e. full lock right and full lock left? Have you owned the car since new? Has it just started doing it?
  20. You say the car lost all forward momentum but what do you mean? Sounds like you mean it was as if the clutch was depressed rather than the brakes being applied (i.e. gradually slowing down rather than suddenly decelerating). Whilst not ideal, the car behind should have had plenty time to react and not just drive into the back of her. It doesn't make a lot of sense but if you're adamant that it was nothing to do with mats or driver error (as Geoff points out) then I'd be pushing for a more thorough examination by the Toyota teenagers (sorry, technicians) and the provision of a written report. Where's the car at now? You say you towed her to RMB so presumably the car is damaged. Is it going to get the bodywork repaired somewhere else?
  21. Whoever they are are a bunch of cowboys. The fact the light came on during your test drive should have rung alarm bells. They'd obviously just turned it off and hoped you wouldn't notice. If anything you should have got your garage to find out what the error code was, then you'd know if they were telling the truth about the timing chain. Regardless, they obviously couldn't be bothered to address whatever the code related to so they just took the bulb out, which is of course, nothing short of despicable. You should probably contact trading standards or post something up on money saving expert motoring forum - they'll give you some advice. You have certain rights when buying from a dealer.
  22. So when you let go of the steering wheel is it pointing straight ahead or does it point to the right ("5 past") as well?
  23. The OP asked them to swap the tyres on the first service. Anyway, I've had more than my fair share of alignment issues with the Yaris. I will bet it is down to your tyres. No 2 tyres are the same, due to manufacturing process they'll all pull in ever so slightly different directions*. If you swap the tyres back to the original positions then I bet it will drive straight. On my Yaris, every time I've had new tyres fitted I've had to have the alignment done. It's PITA and not something I've ever had on any other motor I've owned. My conclusion is the Yaris is hugely oversensitive to tyres. On mine, if you let go of the steering wheel, the car drives straight and true, but the steering wheel was slightly off the centre position e.g. rather than bang on 12 o click, it was more like 5 to. If you held the wheel straight, then the car would of course veer off to the right. OP what happens if you let go of the steering wheel does the car drive straight? * http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=165 this describes it better...
  24. Yes but it's Toyota paint, so it's the best paint money can buy
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