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Everything posted by 4afte

  1. almost looks factory fresh (needs more glass)
  2. the 3S-GTE in front wheel drive guise is surprisingly stable in this chassis, lots of pome and still corners very well given the extra weight.
  3. i have attempted to tune the SR's 4A-FE and let me say that it is far easier cheaper and less soul destroying to find another powerplant, be it and old mr2 4A-GE engine or the newer levin's 20v 4A-GE, both of these are relatively painless swaps that the chassis will have no problem taking. I would not advise turboing the 4A-FE as there are more gains to be had and development potential from an engine swap (cheaper in the long run).
  4. those pictures are brilliant useful. i've gone the whole hog and have no spare wheel well now. the power steering rack picture is good to to know that i'll clear that. the thing that concerns me know is my standard front and rear anit-roll bars. the 4wd ones look very different. those prop shaft mounting tips are very useful too. many thanks. oh and the suzuki looks very cool
  5. might well be the shims for the inlet side. measure them with a feeler gauge and find out if they are still intolerance.
  6. i always find it easiest to take out the whole engine/gearbox arrangement when replacing clutches (but that's just me)
  7. that's a steal at that price dawsey! what are you up to? what conversion have you got the works, an st215 engine? for the mid engine conversion perhaps?
  8. tried the o2 sensor in the exhaust. these can screw with a cars idle all to well.
  9. just look for LED's that say 'no canbus error' they've been made with a resistor in series to simulate the same load as a lamp
  10. 3s-fe with gte internals? are the big ends on the crank shaft the right size?
  11. whilst having the head of after oil consumption i would have swapped the pistons rings for a fresh set. it sounds like oil is getting past the rings and has clogged up/damaged the o2 sensor. if it were me, id replace the piston rings and hone the cylinder bores before refitting the pistons. then see what that does to oil consumption
  12. TD04 is the replacement turbo of choice, it'll work on the standard engine internals (with a little help from a piggy back ecu) provided you don't put too much boost through it. plus they are cheap and readily available. only you can't just swap the turbo, your have to get a downpipe and manifold done as well.
  13. yep, the corolla g6 gearbox would go straight onto your engine with no problem and will fit straight back in. you sera originally had a 5E-FE engine in it which is the same as the paseo's one.
  14. lowering a glanza or starlet is the same as a paseo/cynos or other tercel based vehicle. this should be useful to you: basic lowering guide
  15. or buy the REV 2 engine and spec it up to REV 3, that's what i did: ST185 engine ST183 camshafts (closer duration to ST205 than ST185) ST205 injector REV3 MR2 ECU if you want to run a FMIC (also removed the TVIS and smoothed it out for better port entry)
  16. yes but john your 4WD is a little bit different. i know this as it's my 4WD too, i'v been working on it for almost a year and a half on and off (work allowing), i'll up date in a while. the ARP studs look a treat, good to be kept updated. my question to you is does the transfer box clear the power steering rack and did you have to use 4WD anti roll bars or were the g6 ones fine?
  17. obviously you aren't interested in the front shocker bit. also the best place to buy a fresh set of shocks, either on it's own or as a pair (always recommend doing them as a pair otherwise you get un-even wear and they tire out faster) is from camskill. look up the starlet section of the website and buy some EP91/82 rear shocks. they are exactly the saem part as the paseo, i checked on the KYB catalogue website for part numbers before i bought some for mine. hope this helps
  18. this might help you: Right so this is a two fold thread: the results of dropping my paseo on teins and a basic step by step guide to fitting lowering springs. Firstly you'll need some of these: and one of these: (other vehicles are available) You may also need some tools, here's a rough list of the ones i used: metric sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 19mm socket ratchet adjustable spanner breaker bar (i used 24" 1/2 size one after breaking two 12" 3/8) hammer metric spanners: 14mm, 19mm axle stands spring compressors jack WD-40 (or other penetrating fluid) you'll need lots. I started with the front (because if you only manage to do one half of the car a low front doesn't look as bad as a high front). jack the car up, hand brake on firmly, and remove the wheel (i recommend loosening the wheel nuts while the car is on the floor). WD-40 the lower strut bolts ans any bolts attaching brake hoses or drop links to the strut. Important: remove brake hoses first, ensuring the stay clear and don't present a snagging hazard later on (they are very important). Whilst the strut is still bolted the on loosen the top mount bolts but don't completely undo them. Now you can undo the lower strut bolts (they will be very hard to free so use lots of WD-40 and the large breaker bar). Once removed roll the hub forward to allow the strut to come away more easily. Now you can remove the top mount bolts and lower the whole spring and strut assembly out of the turret. Pictured here with spring compressor attached. I recommend loosening shock absorber top nut at this point. Tighten the spring compressors until there is slight play in the spring between the top mount and the lower dish of the strut. Now fully undo the shock absorber top nut and remove the top mount. With the top mount removed take off the top strut dish followed by the spring, the rubber/plastic boot will probably come off with it, this isn’t a problem. Clean the gunk that has built up at the top on the shock and marvel at the difference between you old rusty shock and the shiny new one. Remove the spring compressor and fit the to the new spring, I put a rag down whilst tighten the compressor to avoid damaging the Teins too much. When you have tighten them sufficiently you’ll be able to slide the spring on followed by the rubber/plastic boot, then the strut top dish finally followed by the top mount. If you have tighten the spring enough you’ll but able to do up the shock top nut with any too much difficulty, do not tighten the shock top nut completely. Before releasing the spring compressors line up the springs with the indent’s in the top and bottom strut dishes. Now you can remove the springs compressors and put the strut and spring assembly back in, being careful to ensure the top mount goes in the correct way round. It’s easy to rotate providing you left the shock top nut loose. Tighten the top mount bolts then refit the hub to the base of the strut. It is advisable to clean the bolts and nuts if you are re-using the old one as there may be damage to the threads otherwise. Don’t forget to re-attach any drop links or brake hoses you may have removed. Now repeat for the other side. Next is the rear suspension, this can differ greatly from car to car, in this instance (the paseo) me have trailing arms with a panhard rod and spring over shock arrangement (this is exactly the same as the starlet). Remove the interior trim as necessary to access the rear strut top mounts. Loosen the top mount nuts whilst it’s still fitted and WD-40 the shock top nut Now WD-40 the lower shock bolt and remove it, using the hammer gently tap out the strut and spring assembly (don’t get to aggressive as it may damaged the shock). Now fully undo the top mount bolts and remove the strut spring assembly. Spring compressors on again and squash the spring until there is play between the top and bottom strut dishes. Using the adjustable spanner and a regular spanner (or another adjustable) undo and remove the shock top nut. Remove washer, top mount and rubber/plastic boot along with the spring, then compare. This is the rear strut assembly broken down into its components. Using the spring compressors squash the new spring until you can fit the rubber/plastic boot, top mount, washer and nut. Not forgetting to position the spring correctly in the lower dish (the top is not so important on this rear strut, others may require correct positioning though). Do not fully tighten the shock top nut just yet, refit the strut and spring assembly. With the strut back in bolt the bottom onto the trailing arms, I recommend using a spanner or similar the lever the bottom of the strut into position. Tighten the top mount bolts and now fully tighten the strut top bolt. Now repeat on the other side. Once finished lower return you car to the road, have a cup of tea/beer/something stronger. Oh and enjoy you lowered ride!
  19. yep, i agree, no point in nice suspension of a car that doesn't move.
  20. awesome video and you are right, it was well overdue, what ECU have you gone with?
  21. i ran a profile of 205/50 r16 and the car was lowered by 35mm
  22. the ECU regulates the fuel delivery dependent on the coolant temperature, it sounds there may be a problem with it. is there a Fuel Cut Defender wired in or something similar? if not you might consider getting a second ECU to try it.
  23. i still think it could go lower :P very tasty
  24. looks very impressive, good to see what can be done to the non frog-eye e11
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