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alfiejts

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  • First Name
    Graham
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    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Yaris 1.3 SR Nav (was 2000 1.0 CDX)
  • Toyota Year
    2008
  • Location
    Lancashire

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  1. As I understand it, air expands and contracts as it gets warmer and cooler, so your tyre pressures will vary very slightly depending upon the outside temperature and also - as you drive your car - the pressures will rise as you drive faster and the friction of the air inside the tyre causes it to heat up slightly. So that's why racing teams use nitroigen - because pure nitrogen doesn't expand and contract as much, so the tyre pressures stay the same both at the start of a race and all the way through it. So the garages sell nitrogen because F1 teams use it and people will pay extra for it. In theory it means that your pressures stay the same and don't increase as you drive the car on a journey. But then think about this a bit more; the manufacturers recommended pressures are quoted "cold" - so that when you check your pressures, you have a "stable reference point". (If they quoted "hot" pressures and you checked them after a long journey, you can never tell just how much they've warmed up so it would be difficult to quote a pressure to check because you wouldn't know how warm they were and people wouldn't always be checking at the same temperature (town drives won't warm the tyres up as much as a motorway drive). But - that means that the "cold" pressure that the manufacturers check aren't the actual pressures that the manufacturers think the tyres should be at when warm - because the manufacturers allow for the extra two or three PSI pressure that gets increased as the tyre warms up to operating temperature. If you fill with Nitrogen - and set the pressure to the manufacturer quoted "cold" pressure - then on a long journey when the tyres warm up, because the pressure won't increase, you'll actually be running them at a lower pressure than the manufacturer has decided they should be run at. So what should you do? Increase your Nitrogen pressures by 2 or 3 psi over the "air" pressures, so that both pressures are the same when warm? Who knows - but given that the manufacturers have done a lot of work to test the cars on "air" and to tell you what pressure should be in them when cold, so that when you're running at 70mph on the motorway, they're at a "higher" but correct pressure, then I'll just stick with air so that I'm driving the car as the manufacturer designed it and not risk doing long motorway runs with a tyre pressure lower than they intended.
  2. Hi and welcome. We had a Mk1 1.0 for eight years and we've had two 1.3 Mk2s for the past four years..... The early 1.0 was a four cylinder engine, but it has the same power output as the later 3 cylinder engines - so the differences we found between the two probably equally apply to the later 1.0s... We did 64000 miles in the 1.0 and it was perfectly fine. We used it mainly round town and locally, but it did several 200 mile round trips to Sheffield over snake pass without any complaint.... Over the whole 64000 miles, it averaged 44mpg. Many times of course we saw up to 65mpg on the computer but tracking the fuel over every full tankful gives the real figure. The 3 cyl 1.0 should be better on fuel.... Over the first 20000 miles and the last four years, the 1.3 has averaged 38.5 mpg. Again, mainly town use and again, we often see the trip computer saying that its averaging 50-55 mpg over a trip bt again, when you average it out overall, its 38.5.... Having driven both, we'd get the 1.3 again. Around town, you don't notice it but if you use it on dual carriageways or motorways, then the 1.3 can keep up with the traffic and run happily at 75-85 all day with the rest of the traffic, just like any bigger car. The 1.0's OK on the motorway for the occasional trip, but for frequent motorway journeys, the 1.3's in its element. The 1.0 performs perfectly OK, but you know its not in its comfort zone.....
  3. I know that UK cars had this facility because I had one myself - but that doesn't necessarily mean that an Italian version would have the same feature. It may well do, in which case fine, but worth checking because if it doesn't, then it could be a big job to retrofit...
  4. what about MPH speedometer? Not sure if yours is digital or analogue, but I assume you need to be able to display your speed in MPH....
  5. Certainly not worn tyres on mine. I've just fitted my winter wheels & tyres and they've got about 5.5mm of tread all the way around, because I checked them before fitting.... I'm confident its something due to the overall front suspension alignment which is always a compromise in terms of caster, camber and toe-in, let alone the ackerman angle! :-) Unless there are any suspension designers on here, we're all just making educated guesses. But my 2008 SR has never been clouted, banged or tracking adjusted (because my wife daren't get within 18" of a kerb when parking for fear of damaging her alloys and suffering my wrath....) and its only done 19000 miles since new so the suspension isn't worn - and on a cold, damp slippery surface, at slow speed on full lock, I felt one wheel skip just once the other day - I'm sure that its just down to the suspension design and nothing to worry about. And lets face it, if anything was worn at all, they would have picked it up at its recent MOT and if the steering alignment was out at all, they tyres would have worn unevenly - and none of that has occured - so I conclude its all as it was deliberately designed....
  6. Mine also does this occasionally (2008 SR) - usually when pulling out of the drive on full lock and when the surface is damp so not as grippy as usual. Its just down to the steering geometry. We've had ours from new and the front wheels have never been kerbed or banged to knock the geometry out. Its just down to the design of the Yaris front suspension & steering geometry. Don't forget - this is at full luck (or nearly) whilst manouvering at slow speed, so isn't dangerous and you'll never be anywhere near this amount of steering lock when moving at speed (well if you are, you're really in trouble....... :-) )
  7. Brake material and clutch material smell the same when overheated. So I suspect its the brakes that are the cause of the deceleration rather than the clutch - after all, as others say, just depressing the clutch wouldn't result in sudden deceleration. So my favoured suggestion is that your sister accidentally left the handbrake on (maybe just slightly). That would cause the rear brakes to cook and if she simply lifted off the accelerator as you would do many times under normal driving, the car would slow down quickly due to the effect of the handbrake. (And I'm no expert in thermodynamics and the coefficient of friction of a cast iron brake drum, but its just possible that as the brakes were overheating and getting hotter and hotter, the cast iron brake drum and the steel brake components could have expanded at different rates and braking effect could increase from when they were cold...) So I really think from all the posts here that the handbrake was left on slightly causing a drag that initially may not have been noticed, but then caused the slowing effect when the driver simply lifted off the accelerator without actually pressing the brake pedal. The alternative would be for some other issue to have caused the brakes to come on and "drag" but that would have to be a fault somewhere rather than a simple oversight...
  8. Have you double checked that you haven't left your mother-in-law in there? I used to get an irritating noise from the passenger seat in my 2008 Yaris.......
  9. Does anyone have any definitive info on the grade of oil to use in a 2008 1.3 Yaris manual gearbox? Given the early life gearbox crunch issues which are now sorted with the selector mod, I want to change the gearbox oil to remove any metal filings that have been deposited. I'm aware that most gearbox bearing failures are as a result of metal swarf because the oil normally never gets changed so for the sake of 2l of oil, I'm going to change it.... The manual specifies a straight 75W grade but websites are quoting a 75w-90 multigrade being the right oil for the 1.3 Yaris. I'm also aware that some dealers have been using "different" oil specs to try and make the gearchange sweeter, so I don't know if there's been a general move away from the 75W in my manual to 75w-90 or whether the internet sites are simply wrong.... Has anyone got any info to clarify which grade to get?
  10. Ebay was my saviour..... If you're not in a desperate rush keep checking regularly.... I got a full set of brand new 15" Corolla wheels that are the same size and fitment as the Yaris for just £120 off eBay a while ago when looking for some spare wheels to put winter tyres on......
  11. That's an awful lot of money. For all we've been extollign PIAA, that seems too much to spend.... The standard Audi aero wipers on my A3 use an ordinary blade within them, so I've been buying PIAA refills and fitting them into the aero housings. For all I've been preaching about PIAA blades for the visibility they give, I've seen that many people are really happy with some of the new treatments such as Aquapel. They had Aquapel in Costco recently so I got some for my daughter's new TTS because she didn't want to bin the Audi blades - and the results are just as good as PIAA. They reckon one coat lasts about six months. There's certainly no smearing when you use the wiper which you do get with Rain-X.... So I'll be using Aquapel on my new A5 when it arrives next month and I'll let you guys know what I find....
  12. Where did everyone go? I used to come onto this forum almost every evening, but then it all went quiet...... Now I only pop on once a month or so to see if anything's going on and nothing much ever seems to be..... Perhaps its because the Yaris is so reliable tat there's nothing much to discuss.... Good to see some of the old timers are still active though.
  13. Don't forget that you also need to check the "bore" which is the size of the hole in the middle, as this sits on the hub sharing the load. Looking on the internet, it suggests the Yaris fitment is: 4x100 PCD. ET (offset) 35-45 Bore 54.1mm If the bore is too big, you can get "rings" to make it smaller from aftermarket alloy shops, but I've never gone down that route myself....
  14. lol.... Just came onto the forum to see what was going on and found this thread still going strong.... I am the man who brought PIAA wipers to the TOC forum all those years ago..... Glad to see this thread still going and a few converts still backing them. I too use the refills more than buying the full wipers - especially as I can get PIAA refills into my "Aero" blades on my A3 yet PIAA themselves don't do an Aero blade (at least they didn't last time I looked...). The PIAA wipers I fitted to our Yaris when new in 2008 are still going strong.....
  15. Here's the guide... http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=116755&hl=eclipse&fromsearch=1
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