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alfiejts

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Everything posted by alfiejts

  1. As I understand it, air expands and contracts as it gets warmer and cooler, so your tyre pressures will vary very slightly depending upon the outside temperature and also - as you drive your car - the pressures will rise as you drive faster and the friction of the air inside the tyre causes it to heat up slightly. So that's why racing teams use nitroigen - because pure nitrogen doesn't expand and contract as much, so the tyre pressures stay the same both at the start of a race and all the way through it. So the garages sell nitrogen because F1 teams use it and people will pay extra for it. In theory it means that your pressures stay the same and don't increase as you drive the car on a journey. But then think about this a bit more; the manufacturers recommended pressures are quoted "cold" - so that when you check your pressures, you have a "stable reference point". (If they quoted "hot" pressures and you checked them after a long journey, you can never tell just how much they've warmed up so it would be difficult to quote a pressure to check because you wouldn't know how warm they were and people wouldn't always be checking at the same temperature (town drives won't warm the tyres up as much as a motorway drive). But - that means that the "cold" pressure that the manufacturers check aren't the actual pressures that the manufacturers think the tyres should be at when warm - because the manufacturers allow for the extra two or three PSI pressure that gets increased as the tyre warms up to operating temperature. If you fill with Nitrogen - and set the pressure to the manufacturer quoted "cold" pressure - then on a long journey when the tyres warm up, because the pressure won't increase, you'll actually be running them at a lower pressure than the manufacturer has decided they should be run at. So what should you do? Increase your Nitrogen pressures by 2 or 3 psi over the "air" pressures, so that both pressures are the same when warm? Who knows - but given that the manufacturers have done a lot of work to test the cars on "air" and to tell you what pressure should be in them when cold, so that when you're running at 70mph on the motorway, they're at a "higher" but correct pressure, then I'll just stick with air so that I'm driving the car as the manufacturer designed it and not risk doing long motorway runs with a tyre pressure lower than they intended.
  2. Hi and welcome. We had a Mk1 1.0 for eight years and we've had two 1.3 Mk2s for the past four years..... The early 1.0 was a four cylinder engine, but it has the same power output as the later 3 cylinder engines - so the differences we found between the two probably equally apply to the later 1.0s... We did 64000 miles in the 1.0 and it was perfectly fine. We used it mainly round town and locally, but it did several 200 mile round trips to Sheffield over snake pass without any complaint.... Over the whole 64000 miles, it averaged 44mpg. Many times of course we saw up to 65mpg on the computer but tracking the fuel over every full tankful gives the real figure. The 3 cyl 1.0 should be better on fuel.... Over the first 20000 miles and the last four years, the 1.3 has averaged 38.5 mpg. Again, mainly town use and again, we often see the trip computer saying that its averaging 50-55 mpg over a trip bt again, when you average it out overall, its 38.5.... Having driven both, we'd get the 1.3 again. Around town, you don't notice it but if you use it on dual carriageways or motorways, then the 1.3 can keep up with the traffic and run happily at 75-85 all day with the rest of the traffic, just like any bigger car. The 1.0's OK on the motorway for the occasional trip, but for frequent motorway journeys, the 1.3's in its element. The 1.0 performs perfectly OK, but you know its not in its comfort zone.....
  3. I know that UK cars had this facility because I had one myself - but that doesn't necessarily mean that an Italian version would have the same feature. It may well do, in which case fine, but worth checking because if it doesn't, then it could be a big job to retrofit...
  4. what about MPH speedometer? Not sure if yours is digital or analogue, but I assume you need to be able to display your speed in MPH....
  5. Certainly not worn tyres on mine. I've just fitted my winter wheels & tyres and they've got about 5.5mm of tread all the way around, because I checked them before fitting.... I'm confident its something due to the overall front suspension alignment which is always a compromise in terms of caster, camber and toe-in, let alone the ackerman angle! :-) Unless there are any suspension designers on here, we're all just making educated guesses. But my 2008 SR has never been clouted, banged or tracking adjusted (because my wife daren't get within 18" of a kerb when parking for fear of damaging her alloys and suffering my wrath....) and its only done 19000 miles since new so the suspension isn't worn - and on a cold, damp slippery surface, at slow speed on full lock, I felt one wheel skip just once the other day - I'm sure that its just down to the suspension design and nothing to worry about. And lets face it, if anything was worn at all, they would have picked it up at its recent MOT and if the steering alignment was out at all, they tyres would have worn unevenly - and none of that has occured - so I conclude its all as it was deliberately designed....
  6. Mine also does this occasionally (2008 SR) - usually when pulling out of the drive on full lock and when the surface is damp so not as grippy as usual. Its just down to the steering geometry. We've had ours from new and the front wheels have never been kerbed or banged to knock the geometry out. Its just down to the design of the Yaris front suspension & steering geometry. Don't forget - this is at full luck (or nearly) whilst manouvering at slow speed, so isn't dangerous and you'll never be anywhere near this amount of steering lock when moving at speed (well if you are, you're really in trouble....... :-) )
  7. Brake material and clutch material smell the same when overheated. So I suspect its the brakes that are the cause of the deceleration rather than the clutch - after all, as others say, just depressing the clutch wouldn't result in sudden deceleration. So my favoured suggestion is that your sister accidentally left the handbrake on (maybe just slightly). That would cause the rear brakes to cook and if she simply lifted off the accelerator as you would do many times under normal driving, the car would slow down quickly due to the effect of the handbrake. (And I'm no expert in thermodynamics and the coefficient of friction of a cast iron brake drum, but its just possible that as the brakes were overheating and getting hotter and hotter, the cast iron brake drum and the steel brake components could have expanded at different rates and braking effect could increase from when they were cold...) So I really think from all the posts here that the handbrake was left on slightly causing a drag that initially may not have been noticed, but then caused the slowing effect when the driver simply lifted off the accelerator without actually pressing the brake pedal. The alternative would be for some other issue to have caused the brakes to come on and "drag" but that would have to be a fault somewhere rather than a simple oversight...
  8. Have you double checked that you haven't left your mother-in-law in there? I used to get an irritating noise from the passenger seat in my 2008 Yaris.......
  9. Does anyone have any definitive info on the grade of oil to use in a 2008 1.3 Yaris manual gearbox? Given the early life gearbox crunch issues which are now sorted with the selector mod, I want to change the gearbox oil to remove any metal filings that have been deposited. I'm aware that most gearbox bearing failures are as a result of metal swarf because the oil normally never gets changed so for the sake of 2l of oil, I'm going to change it.... The manual specifies a straight 75W grade but websites are quoting a 75w-90 multigrade being the right oil for the 1.3 Yaris. I'm also aware that some dealers have been using "different" oil specs to try and make the gearchange sweeter, so I don't know if there's been a general move away from the 75W in my manual to 75w-90 or whether the internet sites are simply wrong.... Has anyone got any info to clarify which grade to get?
  10. Ebay was my saviour..... If you're not in a desperate rush keep checking regularly.... I got a full set of brand new 15" Corolla wheels that are the same size and fitment as the Yaris for just £120 off eBay a while ago when looking for some spare wheels to put winter tyres on......
  11. That's an awful lot of money. For all we've been extollign PIAA, that seems too much to spend.... The standard Audi aero wipers on my A3 use an ordinary blade within them, so I've been buying PIAA refills and fitting them into the aero housings. For all I've been preaching about PIAA blades for the visibility they give, I've seen that many people are really happy with some of the new treatments such as Aquapel. They had Aquapel in Costco recently so I got some for my daughter's new TTS because she didn't want to bin the Audi blades - and the results are just as good as PIAA. They reckon one coat lasts about six months. There's certainly no smearing when you use the wiper which you do get with Rain-X.... So I'll be using Aquapel on my new A5 when it arrives next month and I'll let you guys know what I find....
  12. Where did everyone go? I used to come onto this forum almost every evening, but then it all went quiet...... Now I only pop on once a month or so to see if anything's going on and nothing much ever seems to be..... Perhaps its because the Yaris is so reliable tat there's nothing much to discuss.... Good to see some of the old timers are still active though.
  13. Don't forget that you also need to check the "bore" which is the size of the hole in the middle, as this sits on the hub sharing the load. Looking on the internet, it suggests the Yaris fitment is: 4x100 PCD. ET (offset) 35-45 Bore 54.1mm If the bore is too big, you can get "rings" to make it smaller from aftermarket alloy shops, but I've never gone down that route myself....
  14. lol.... Just came onto the forum to see what was going on and found this thread still going strong.... I am the man who brought PIAA wipers to the TOC forum all those years ago..... Glad to see this thread still going and a few converts still backing them. I too use the refills more than buying the full wipers - especially as I can get PIAA refills into my "Aero" blades on my A3 yet PIAA themselves don't do an Aero blade (at least they didn't last time I looked...). The PIAA wipers I fitted to our Yaris when new in 2008 are still going strong.....
  15. Here's the guide... http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=116755&hl=eclipse&fromsearch=1
  16. Sorry - Haven't been on the forum much recently...... Yes - They were the correct cable and worked perfectly. I did a full installation guide in a separate post that you should be able to find with a search....
  17. Suggest you try the various internet brokers. This was how we got our Yaris. Just Google "car broker" or "discount new cars", go onto the broker web sites and see what prices they quote. They'll put you in touch with the cheapest main dealer they can find and if you like the quote, you buy at that price from the main dealer they put you in touch with. Some will deliver anywhere in the country - we went down to the midlands to collect ours from a toyota dealership there. It was over £1000 cheaper than the best price our local dealer would offer, so £30 in petrol for a round trip to collect it was no trouble at all...
  18. I get over 57 regularly on the computer display for many runs in the 1.3 - used to get mid 60s on the trip display in the 1.0 around town, but when you calculate it out over a whole tankful (and then maintain it over several tankfulls, because unless you fill it right up to the brim visibly, even calculating over a tankful isn't totally reliable) it comes out at the real figures I mentioned... My Audi A3 TDI says I regularly get over 60mpg on trips on its computer and I can average over 50mpg over a 420mile return trip to Bristol (according to the computer) but again, when measured over several tankfulls it really comes out at just 44mpg overall since I bought it 52000 miles ago.....
  19. Yep - 38 is about right. We've averaged 38.4 in our 1.3 over 3 years and 15000 miles. 90% town driving with the occasional run. Best "tankful" average was 44mpg, worst "tankful" average was 34mpg. Our original 1.0 averaged 44.1 over 8 years and 64000 miles doing the same mainly-town driving. Our daughter was getting about 5mpg more out of her 1.3 (about 43 overall) but she was doing a lot more main road and motorway driving....
  20. My figures suggest it works out like this..... New Yaris TR. 1.33 does 52.3mpg officially, 1.4D does 72.4mpg. Whether you'll actually get either of those figures in real driving is debatable, but to suggest that the diesel does 20mpg more than the petrol doesn't sound unreasonable and if you use the official figures, at least they're a genuine comparison between the two engines when theyre doing the same work.... So using those figures and the current cost of fuel, over 6000 miles, a petrol Yaris will cost you £687 in fuel and a diesel Yaris will cost you £530 in fuel - so that's £157 extra per year fuel costs. But - the diesel model costs £1500 extra. That means it will take you over 9.5 years just to recoup your extra outlay on the new car price.... Even if you do 10000 miles per year - it will still take you nearly 5 years to just revover your extra outlay on the new car price.... That's why we bought our 1.3 petrol when we changed our Yaris back in 2008..... OK - I've not factored in any difference in road fund tax and some people may prefer the low down pulling power of a diesel engine - also if you buy secondhand, the extra price premium may not be as much - but it still illustrates the point very well that you need to be doing high mileage to justify a diesel car purely as a financial transaction....
  21. Agree with the post above that its often a compromise between grip and durability - also fully agree that as the tyres are the only thing holding you onto the road, its worth paying for a quality brand. I'd suggest going onto an online tyre shop such as mytyres and putting in your tyre size. That will bring up a wide selection of tyres that fit your car all priced up - with links to tests for each. That way you can see what sort of target price you should be aiming for at whereever you go locally to buy them and also you can research the various tests to make sure the tyres you select have decent test reviews.... I always swap mine from front to back as they wear, as the front wear out quicker on front wheel drive cars. That way, the tyres last longer before they need changing. I realise that means that you then have to fork out for all four tyres at the same time - but I prefer to do that anyway, to make sure that all four tyres are always identical. After all - all the handling and suspension design was done on a car where each corner of the car had the same level of grip in every circumstance. As soon as you have a mixture of tyres - you're in a situation for cornering,and front-rear grip nbalance where the car isn't quite working as the manufacturer designed it.... Its obviously not an issue to most of the population because I'm sure that most people don't care, But if you're cornering with different tyres from to back and you hit a slippery patch on a corner - the front or rear will break away differently than if you have both ends on the same tyres. That's can't be the best situation to be in....
  22. This site suplies parts by mail order. I don't know the year of your car, but taking a 2002 model as an example, the centre pipe and rear pipes are each under £30 to but incl VAT.... http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/exhausts-buy.php Yaris 1.0 i 321497 CAT+FR Pipe-Type Approved Cost : £96.67 + vat 401568 CAT Fit Kit Cost : £16.70 + vat TY581H Box+Tail Pipe Cost : £24.30 + vat TY597J Box+Centre Pipe Cost : £22.13 + vat
  23. Don't know the pricing but hopefully its just the rear silencer as that's a separatelly replaceable part.... http://www.catalogue.bosal.com/pages/exh_system_list.php?query_nr=5&make=TOYOTA&model=Yaris&body=All%20body%20types&cartype=1.0&fuel=B Suggest you ring arund a few of the quick-fit exhaust outlets for quotes....
  24. agree - sounds like the wheel bearing but the garage should have spotted thet when you had it in investigating the noise.... Does the droning alter at all when you go around left or right corners? That's a sure sign of a wheel bearing - it gets worse as you go round a bend one way but not the other....
  25. The rear drums have an automatic adjuster that works on a rather coubik series of knotches on a gear - so as the rear brake shoes wear, as the adjuster clicks on a notch, there may be a slight rubbing on one side that's not quite the same on the other - and whilst you may be able to tell that its "scuffing" slightly when turning the wheel, I woudn't expect that it was loud enought to hear it inside the car.... We had a problem in our first Yaris that if you braked hard from high speed, the car pulled to the left slightly. After changing all the front brake pads and disks, it was no better. Eventually we realised that it was the back brakes causing the issue. If you pulled the handbrake on (keeping the button pressed in) from above 50, you could feel the car pulling to one side.... Not sure to this day what the real cause was. Stripping all the back brakes down and reassembling them resolved the issue.... Whether we'd got one of the springs on slightly wrong that hold the shoes together, I don't know... Suggest that you try braking with just the handbrake to see if the car slows stright - if so, at least you know that the brakes are both working properly even if they're noisy...
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