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shcm

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shcm last won the day on December 2 2011

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About shcm

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    shcm
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  1. .....................Continued from Part 1 This is for XT5, the t180 could use a different camera and fit into the rear door where it was designed for near your number plate. I was behind a Lexus RX300 and it had a very small and discreet rear view camera fitted at the number plate, which would probably be ideal for T180. If anyone requires any more help I can make some more plugs and send to them without a cable. Jim. Darkside's T180 Install Here goes then, to any T180 owners mad as hell (like me) that Toyota did not fit a camera from the off. For T180
  2. This installation refers to 4.3 XT5 and T180 models fitted with the "B9004" full screen Sat Nav head unit. These are vehicles from start of production to at least present date (Nov 2007) and probably beyond. Background The B9004 has the capability to display the image from a rear view camera or any other PAL/NTSC video source. The XT5 and T180 models also have the camera harness wiring already installed from the head unit to the inside of the rear door. There are six signals to/from the head unit which are involved. The six signals at the rear connectors of the head unit are:
  3. In addition to the information supplied in the owner's manual, here is some information on the vehicle jacking points for the RAV 4.2. Please remember: Don't jack up a heavily loaded vehicle. If you're removing a heavy part (e.g. engine), the centre of gravity of the vehicle is likely to shift as you do it. Don't work under a vehicle just supported by the jack - it's not worth the risk. Use correctly placed wheel chocks if appropriate. Above all, always follow the appropriate safety precautions. Note: the central rear jacking position for
  4. Sorry, that sounds a little confused to me. The oil maintenance message can be cleared without resorting to a generic EOBD reader. The procedure is here: http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/115132-oil-maintenance-warning-light-43-xt5-d-4d/#entry1041679 You should also see a countdown, I think with 5 or so "dashes" on the display, if I remember correctly. If your "check engine lamp" is on, (The yellow engine symbol), that is something entirely different and is the engine ECU trying to tell you that it thinks that there is a fault. That can be cleared with a standard OBD reader, but wil
  5. Kev, For the point at which the oil maintenance message comes on, the engine ECU is supposed to do a rough engine oil soot content calculation as well as being based on the distance driven. I expect if you are doing a lot of short journeys and/or with a fair bit of heavy acceleration, that would probably make it come on earlier. However, there's a maximum driven distance, after which the message will be displayed anyway. This is reported to be 30000 km or about 18750 miles, which does not fit with Toyota UK's recommended service intervals. If It came on roughly 1200 miles early, say for your
  6. shcm

    Scotland

    Perhaps steer clear of the chicken tava next time then.
  7. On a RAV with a multifunctional display (i.e. probably most if not all EU ones), there should be no oil related warning lights. It is all done with messages on the display. There is no low oil pressure light before engine crank. Unless they put it back on 2011 models! So, which light is flickering????? Something else doesn't stack up...........
  8. Except if you are washing the vehicle in a hard water area. Much as it pains me big boy, I have to agree with you on this :P ;). It is a nice fine rinsing mist. I usually find the "back pressure" from the lance helps keep the rotary head thingy well away from the bodywork anyway.
  9. The RAV section is having a debate on whether posts/topics should be moved, when the topic originator has clearly asked them not to be. This post is just an example of how easy it would be to link to a topic in another section, thus trying to prevent any potential bad feeling between members and moderators. The topic stays where it is, there is no duplication of topics/threads and people visiting the general section get to know about it. Surely everybody wins? There may even be a better way for moderators to do links that I don't know about perhaps??????? The debate is here (click on link): ht
  10. Good, that's as it should be. Above statement must have been a measurement error. You can't have both conditions being true. (The above measurements and the last post measurements). Unless the ECU FPR coil drive is intermittent. Did the engine start normally without the problem?
  11. OK thanks. Good in one sense, It's what I was expecting. At least nothing else is holding that point up. Sorry, but based on your previous statements & measurements, it's beginning to sound like the FPR coil driver stage in the ECU is giving notice. Could double check, by measuring the voltage at point B with respect to ground, with the relay back in and engine running. Based on figures from your previous posts, I'm expecting it to be around 7V-ish. I really think it should be 0V-ish.
  12. Nothing stopping using a switch. Which is why I was suggesting pulling the relay coil ( point B ) to ground in an earlier post, with a piece of wire. If the voltage @ E7 pin3 really is that high, I'm surprised the ECU isn't seeing it as a short circuit detect and shutting down the drive. Perhaps it doesn't have that capability. EDIT: humour me. Remove the fuel pump relay. Turn the ignition switch to position 2, so that everything is powered up, but don't try to start (well, it won't anyway). Measure the voltage between point B (on the relay socket) and ground (chassis). Report back please. Whi
  13. I don't have wiring diagrams for the 1AZ-FE from before 07/2003. Let's hope they are the same. You said you'd measured 4.76V across the fuel pump relay coil ( Across points A & B ) If that's correct, I'm 99% certain that is a fault. The driver transistor in the ECU will almost certainly be set up to act like a switch. See the diagram above. When the fuel pump is supposed to be on, there should be about 12V across the relay coil (across points A & B ). Or put it another way - point B, measured from ground, should be about 0V. (It will probably be a little higher by a fraction of a volt
  14. I think you're barking up the wrong tree with that one. Don't worry, it won't be anything to do with headunit. I probably need to draw some diagrams to try to explain what it could possibly be, so just bear with me a little while.
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