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Everything posted by shcm

  1. I had the same thought. I suggest you undo the foam thing fixing and lift the foam thing. The foam thing is covering what I assume is the rear motor HT 3 phase drive, as I found out a few days ago. Not a great photo below, but you get the idea. I don't thing a spare will fit nicely with that lump there.
  2. They were these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lockwood-Compatible-Released-Stainless-Protectors/dp/B09XFBLCQD Only on ebay. Not fitted yet, got quite a few tasks I want to do, so they are on the list. They look pretty good. Not checked the fit yet. I like the fact there are some small rear ones too with this set, but they are probably not that useful in reality. Also have a set of these to go in: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Smabee-Anti-Slip-Toyota-Accessories-Non-Slip/dp/B096S4J6F7 which should smarten up things like the cup holders a bit. Numbered fitting ref in pictures here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wcnsxs-Accessories-Rubber-Toyota-Anti-Slip/dp/B09D3VK1C9
  3. The alternative to a "pouch" is to put the key into low power mode. The key will then no longer respond to "pings" from the car. i.e. in low power mode, keyless is effectively disabled and the radio relaying stealing hack will be ineffective. Pull the car door handle with the key on you and with the key in low power mode and nothing will happen. The car won't unlock. Pressing the unlock button on the key, brings the key out of low power mode. It's an easy and convenient alternative to "permanent" changes via diagnostic kit. This doesn't work for earlier Toyota systems (certainly up to about 2011/12), but does seem to work for 2016 systems onwards (possibly earlier). It does work on yaris cross. It is detailed in the car handbook for at least the cross, but basically: Hold the key lock button in and while holding lock, press unlock twice. The key led should flash 4 times to indicate low power mode. If the second key gets very little use, low power mode is also useful for prolonging the battery life of the second key, by putting the second key into low power mode. (Note, the above is different to some cars going into "low power" mode and disabling keyless, which it does if the car's not been unlocked for approx 7 to 14 days (model and year dependant). You then have to unlock the car by pressing the key unlock button).
  4. I did do B9017->T180 many years ago for a friend. A few signals needed swapping between connectors to get everything like mic/steering controls etc to work. I'm used to backing wire crimps out of automotive connectors without damage, so that's the route that was taken. It wasn't too tricky to work out, but being so long ago, I no longer have the info instantly to hand (or easily accessible in my head!). The wiring diagrams can certainly be downloaded for a small fee from here: https://www.toyota-tech.eu ...by now you may find them elsewhere for "free" on the web. Cheers
  5. Wish I could help. My part-ex was going that route, but it's now going to a friend, which is beneficial to both of us. I advised Toyota online this *may* happen and they said "fine" if it did (just pay total cost), so I expect I may still get contacted about a part-ex inspection. That contact possibly may be in the next week(s) or so (I hope!). I'll advise when it happens, so you have an idea of timings. The new vehicle allegedly arrived @ the Derbyshire hub yesterday after Zeebrugge, Grimsby etc. There's obvious things like present your part-ex as well as you can. I expect they will try to knock the part-ex value down, but you never know. I know for example, increased offers on inspection, from people like WBAC, do happen sometimes. When I looked at this, the Toyota valuation was about 10% better than WBAC for me. Remember, while used car prices are possibly not as high as they were, I believe trade-in should still really be giving a little bit extra than the "norm". If of interest: The VIN has been visible in the myToyota account data since the vehicle left the factory. The VIN is recognised by the Toyota tecdoc site: https://www.toyota-tech.eu/euro5search/VehicleSpecifications and allegedly everything it should have, is fitted! 😀 The "estimatedDeliveryToFinalDestination" improved a little from 27/05/22 to 24/05/22. Since allegedly arriving in Derbyshire (Burnaston), that date now shows as "1900-01-01"! This tracking information is very useful, but I often get the feeling the underlying system needed more testing! 😀 Just gone through the 26 week mark from order. The original estimate was 34 weeks delivery.
  6. Yeah, hopefully good news for you, on the face of it. There are intermediate dates populated for mine. The first @ TMMF for 13/04/22, so possibly will go into build next week, but I'm not taking it as gospel. We'll see. Based on the other estimated populated dates, it seems to get stuck @ Zeebrugge for about 2 weeks, but I expect Easter gets in the way.
  7. Some of the cheaper USB J2534 pass-thru VIMs seem incapable of writing the TPMS data properly via techstream. e.g. This type will work with techstream, but when it comes to programming TPMS sensor IDs, it will fail: https://www.cardiagtool.co.uk/cheapest-mini-vci-for-toyota.html This one does program TPMS: https://www.eobdtool.co.uk/wholesale/vxdiag-vcx-nano-toyota-diagnostic-tool.html I know I have both. First type failed to program TPMS on A RAV via TS. Second type worked.
  8. Well, that's interesting. Exactly the same has just happened for me. Co-incidence or IT system bug fix........I do wonder. ...and logging into my Toyota, there are now 2 "panes". 1. The one that's always been there for the original order, with online format order number and ORCA number and........ 2. Another one containing the tracking info associated with the order number that appears in myT and that looks more like a dealer format order number rather than an online order number format. EDIT: and extracting info - estimatedDeliveryToFinalDestination: "2022-05-19"
  9. Thanks for that. 👍 Many thanks for the info. It's useful to know I'm not the only one with an order in this odd looking state. If it's a case of only changing to a "Processing Order" state and appearing in the app etc, once production is scheduled (maybe when a VIN is allocated), I'd be quite OK with Toyota telling me that. Instead they don't seem to have much clue how the system works (well, at least in the communication I've had with them). As I said above, I do know of a Dynamic AWD that was ordered very early 2022 (a couple of months after mine) and that does appear with the usual "Processing Order" etc tracking information. That was a dealer order. So, I do wonder whether this "waiting list" state in the online account and the order not appearing in the phone app, is applicable to online orders only. Or maybe this Dynamic order picked up a vehicle that was already scheduled for build, but with no customer allocated at the time. Be nice to fully understand what's going on, but I suspect that won't happen. 🙂
  10. Thanks for that info. 👍 At least that time scale is similar to what I'm being told. Just wondering what the specs are of those reported going into build now and ordered around the same time as mine.
  11. Could I ask which spec you ordered please? I ordered a Premiere AWD at the start of November 21 but delivery estimate has varied between early May and Late June. I get the fact that spec may determine when the vehicle gets allocated a production slot, so just wondering what you ordered? I also know of a Dynamic AWD order that in theory is a delivery for April and was ordered after mine but that still shows "Processing Order". As background info, I'm a bit "twitchy" about my order at the moment. This was an "Toyota Buy Online" order via the website. At the time of ordering there was no apparent discount to be had (at least not for me), so it appeared to make no difference whether I went the dealer route or online and online appeared easy. I can only see the order on my web account and that only says "The Toyota team will contact you soon via email to advise the next steps". No "Processing order", nothing. The order doesn't even appear in my "myT" app. I've questioned this several times with Toyota, but it just gets handed off by the "Buy Online team" to Toyota Customer Relations, who in this instance have been about as useful as the famous chocolate tea pot. The last communication was "There appears to be an underlying data issue". That's a great help and slightly worrying. I do get delivery estimate updates though and I have been told verbally that the order all looks OK and the vehicle has a number allocated to it. (Unique Reference Number, URN?) I wouldn't expect it to get a VIN until a production slot had been planned. Also now, since about the start of March, it is no longer possible to order a Premier AWD on the website. FWD only. This has had the effect of some of the details of the order (e.g. car icons etc) disappearing from what I can see of the order in my web account. Again, on questioning, I've been told verbally by the "Buy Online Team" that I will get the spec I ordered. You can perhaps understand then why I'm a bit "twitchy". I'm not bothered about the length of time for delivery, but I won't be particularly pleased if this order has been messed up in some way and nobody @ Toyota can be bothered to sort it out properly....Or if the vehicle turns up with the wrong spec. .....and I get the reason for length delivery more than most. I work for a global electronic automotive component supplier, so I'm only too aware of the current issues. Next time, I'll probably stick with the dealer route. Perhaps I should be old and wise enough to know better. In 20 years of being a Toyota customer, some dealers have been better than others, but at the moment, all of them seemed to handle things better than this online route. Thanks!
  12. .....................Continued from Part 1 This is for XT5, the t180 could use a different camera and fit into the rear door where it was designed for near your number plate. I was behind a Lexus RX300 and it had a very small and discreet rear view camera fitted at the number plate, which would probably be ideal for T180. If anyone requires any more help I can make some more plugs and send to them without a cable. Jim. Darkside's T180 Install Here goes then, to any T180 owners mad as hell (like me) that Toyota did not fit a camera from the off. For T180 owners, I bought the following camera: Camera The info by Schm & JHRC further up show the connections to the camera connector. Below is where I positioned the camera on the back door: and close up: In order to fit where shown you have to remove that trim/numberplate light housing from the rear door. This is done by removing the three nuts on the inside of the rear door panel. This picture shows two of the the said blighters: Then you need to drill and fix the camera: Run the power and video through the back door (existing grommet for number plate light cable) - stanley knife and patience! you can see the access point in the bolt picture above. Then connect up the camera wire (see JHRC) I ran the power cable along the existing harness through the rear door and through the flexible connector (JHRC again) Once through into the access panel earth the cable as shown below. The power needs to be tapped in to the reverse light. In the harness in front of you are a number of wires. There are two red wires-one is the reverse light circuit, one permanent live. Use a tester (and a helper to put the car in & out of reverse) to locate the correct one. Connect in with a scotchlok, after I took the picture below I ran the cable into the harness to finish off the job. and that is it, T180 as it should have been from day one!! Final Note Of course, you install at your own risk, but shcm, JHRC and Darkside wish you a successful install. Enjoy!
  13. This installation refers to 4.3 XT5 and T180 models fitted with the "B9004" full screen Sat Nav head unit. These are vehicles from start of production to at least present date (Nov 2007) and probably beyond. Background The B9004 has the capability to display the image from a rear view camera or any other PAL/NTSC video source. The XT5 and T180 models also have the camera harness wiring already installed from the head unit to the inside of the rear door. There are six signals to/from the head unit which are involved. The six signals at the rear connectors of the head unit are: BTCY : back door courtesy switch on pin 1 of 24 way head unit connector E54 (light green wire) REV : reverse gear select on pin 5 of 5 way head unit connector E57 (red wire) CGND : camera supply ground on pin 21 of E54 (red wire) V+ : camera video signal on pin 22 of E54 (white wire) V- : camera video signal gnd on pin 23 of E54 (a screen/braid wire) CA+ : camera positive supply on pin 24 of E54 (a black wire) More importantly, four of these signals appear on a connector called S7 inside the rear door. The S7 connector is shown below: S7 is a 6 way connector. Those signals that connect to S7 from the head unit are: CGND : connects to CGND on S7 (pin 3) V+ : connects to CV+ on S7 (pin 2) V- : connects to CV- on S7 (pin 1) CA+ : connects to CB+ on S7 (pin 4) pins 5 and 6 on S7 are unused. The Toyota part number for S7 is 90980-12382. So far we have not managed to source the other mating half of the S7 connector, so alternative connectors have been home-made (see installs below). When reverse gear selection is detected via REV, 6 Volts is supplied from the head unit to the camera via CA+ (CB+) and CGND. The camera video signal is input to the head unit via V+ and V-. If the back door is detected open via BTCY, then if reverse is also selected at the time, a door open message is displayed on the head unit in place of the camera video signal. For a non-Toyota after-market camera, it is likely to require a 12V supply and not the 6V supply that the Toyota camera would appear to accept. A suggested place to pick up the 12V is from the reversing light supply (see Darkside's installation below). V- should also be connected to CGND. Although the B9004 unit appears to accept both a NTSC and PAL video input, a NTSC camera is recommended. Don't forget you might also want a reversed image camera and one that works in low light conditions or has infra red LEDs for night time use. OK, that's enough theory, what you really want is the installation. The following is JHRC's installation into a XT5. JHRC's XT5 Install I cut some circuit board that you can buy from Maplin, the pin I got from a burnt out interface unit from my work, but I am sure you can buy them from Maplin, the video cable came from accessories that come with your home DVD player, solder the pins onto circuit board cut one of the plugs of the video cable and bare back the cable, solder to the circuit board. I then used rubber sleeves to insulate the plug. I used 6 pins but you only need 4, I haven't mentioned what position you solder the wire to, as shcm already covered this. Connect the plug to S7 socket secure video cable and feed it down to the wiring that comes into rear door, right hand corner, push video plug through flexible rubber into where right hand light cluster is, this has an access cover for changing bulbs. My 12v supply come presently from the rear accessories socket, but will try to take this from reversing lights, earth is bolted to body using a 6mm eye crimp. Now the camera I bought various ones CMOS and CCD sensors, PAL or NTSC from Ebay, but ended up using a NTSC camera with a Sharp 1/3 CCD image sensor from Ebay (Backupeyes from Baldwin Education) this a UK company with very fast delivery, Prices approx. £40, Rear view CCD camera, night vision reversing camera, (#330182485033) This was fitted below the bumper on right hand side of number plate, 2 X 4mm hole were drilled into bumper to secure camera bracket and the camera cable was fed behind bumper to the right and tied to existing cables. On the right hand corner below bumper above exhaust tail pipe there is a vent flap which you feed the cable into and comes in near light cluster, this is where to connect the video and power cable. Continued in Part 2.................................
  14. In addition to the information supplied in the owner's manual, here is some information on the vehicle jacking points for the RAV 4.2. Please remember: Don't jack up a heavily loaded vehicle. If you're removing a heavy part (e.g. engine), the centre of gravity of the vehicle is likely to shift as you do it. Don't work under a vehicle just supported by the jack - it's not worth the risk. Use correctly placed wheel chocks if appropriate. Above all, always follow the appropriate safety precautions. Note: the central rear jacking position for the 4.2 is the diff carrier and not the diff itself. The information is supplied in good faith, but TOC and any of its members accept no liability for any damage, injury or loss sustained through use of the information provided. Please work safely.
  15. Sorry, that sounds a little confused to me. The oil maintenance message can be cleared without resorting to a generic EOBD reader. The procedure is here: http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/115132-oil-maintenance-warning-light-43-xt5-d-4d/#entry1041679 You should also see a countdown, I think with 5 or so "dashes" on the display, if I remember correctly. If your "check engine lamp" is on, (The yellow engine symbol), that is something entirely different and is the engine ECU trying to tell you that it thinks that there is a fault. That can be cleared with a standard OBD reader, but will come back on if the fault is still present. You may possibly be able to reset the "oil maintenance required" message, with a reader connected to the OBD port, but I expect it has to be one (compatible with/similar to) toyota techstream types, which if it is a legally aquired system, is usually a fair bit more expensive than the generic £30 or so ones. Does that clear things up?
  16. Kev, For the point at which the oil maintenance message comes on, the engine ECU is supposed to do a rough engine oil soot content calculation as well as being based on the distance driven. I expect if you are doing a lot of short journeys and/or with a fair bit of heavy acceleration, that would probably make it come on earlier. However, there's a maximum driven distance, after which the message will be displayed anyway. This is reported to be 30000 km or about 18750 miles, which does not fit with Toyota UK's recommended service intervals. If It came on roughly 1200 miles early, say for your 20k service, I expect it was never reset @ the 10000 miles service and just came on at the 18750 miles (30000 km) mark.
  17. shcm


    Perhaps steer clear of the chicken tava next time then.
  18. On a RAV with a multifunctional display (i.e. probably most if not all EU ones), there should be no oil related warning lights. It is all done with messages on the display. There is no low oil pressure light before engine crank. Unless they put it back on 2011 models! So, which light is flickering????? Something else doesn't stack up...........
  19. Except if you are washing the vehicle in a hard water area. Much as it pains me big boy, I have to agree with you on this :P ;). It is a nice fine rinsing mist. I usually find the "back pressure" from the lance helps keep the rotary head thingy well away from the bodywork anyway.
  20. The RAV section is having a debate on whether posts/topics should be moved, when the topic originator has clearly asked them not to be. This post is just an example of how easy it would be to link to a topic in another section, thus trying to prevent any potential bad feeling between members and moderators. The topic stays where it is, there is no duplication of topics/threads and people visiting the general section get to know about it. Surely everybody wins? There may even be a better way for moderators to do links that I don't know about perhaps??????? The debate is here (click on link): http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/153420-shunted-again/?view=getlastpost Please post any comments there and not as a reply to this thread.
  21. Good, that's as it should be. Above statement must have been a measurement error. You can't have both conditions being true. (The above measurements and the last post measurements). Unless the ECU FPR coil drive is intermittent. Did the engine start normally without the problem?
  22. OK thanks. Good in one sense, It's what I was expecting. At least nothing else is holding that point up. Sorry, but based on your previous statements & measurements, it's beginning to sound like the FPR coil driver stage in the ECU is giving notice. Could double check, by measuring the voltage at point B with respect to ground, with the relay back in and engine running. Based on figures from your previous posts, I'm expecting it to be around 7V-ish. I really think it should be 0V-ish.
  23. Nothing stopping using a switch. Which is why I was suggesting pulling the relay coil ( point B ) to ground in an earlier post, with a piece of wire. If the voltage @ E7 pin3 really is that high, I'm surprised the ECU isn't seeing it as a short circuit detect and shutting down the drive. Perhaps it doesn't have that capability. EDIT: humour me. Remove the fuel pump relay. Turn the ignition switch to position 2, so that everything is powered up, but don't try to start (well, it won't anyway). Measure the voltage between point B (on the relay socket) and ground (chassis). Report back please. While the relay is out, can you take the relay and measure its coil resistance, ( meter between the pins on the relay itself, that would plug into points A & B ).
  24. I don't have wiring diagrams for the 1AZ-FE from before 07/2003. Let's hope they are the same. You said you'd measured 4.76V across the fuel pump relay coil ( Across points A & B ) If that's correct, I'm 99% certain that is a fault. The driver transistor in the ECU will almost certainly be set up to act like a switch. See the diagram above. When the fuel pump is supposed to be on, there should be about 12V across the relay coil (across points A & B ). Or put it another way - point B, measured from ground, should be about 0V. (It will probably be a little higher by a fraction of a volt). When the pump is supposed to be off, there should be 0V across the the relay coil (no current flows, so A and B should be at the same potential). Or, measured with reference to ground, both point A and B should be at 12V (assuming that the 12V supply (battery) is still being applied to point A. It's supplied via the ignition switch). As it stands, there is barely enough voltage across the fuel pump relay coil, to give sufficient current to pull the relay switch closed. It's probably just about doing it. Once the switch is closed, most relays require less current to hold the switch closed. However, once the engine starts to crank, the battery voltage will dip. This may mean the relay switch is fluttering slightly, just barely held closed, with a relatively high switch resistance, so pump motor current would be affected. This would be worse with a cold engine, when the voltage cranking waveform would dip lower than with a warm engine. The relay control goes to pin 3 on ECU connector E7. Check that the harness from there to 1C ( point B ) is low resistance. Also check that the ECU earths like E01 and E02 E3 pins 21 and 31 are low resistance back to battery negative. Something is forcing the voltage on point B up, when it should be low impedance. It may be a faulty ECU, it may be quite a simple harness problem. It's probably quite simple, but much harder to diagnose via posts on a forum.
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