Registered Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Avalon last won the day on June 17

Avalon had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

12 Good

About Avalon

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Gender*
  • Toyota Model
    RAV4 XTR 5dr 2.0 D4D (55) Gen 4.2
  • Toyota Year
  • Location
    Tyne & Wear

Recent Profile Visitors

2,337 profile views
  1. Presumably before spending on that lot you read the fault codes? Is it all the time, or just occasionally?
  2. Avalon

    RAV 4 Gone

    Good luck with the mini - I remember the hate that came free with the early ones, they were popular with driving instructors at one point, I remember watching an instructor have to get out of the car to pick up a wing mirror that fell off a new one, strangely enough they weren’t that popular a few years later.
  3. For run of the mill stuff any reputable garage should have multiple accounts with local motor factors and be able to have parts the same day (brakes, wipers, shafts, drop links, bearings, callipers, brake hoses, suspension etc.) - this is how the industry has worked for decades, ECP should be the source of last resort, don’t believe the rubbish about a ‘sale’, my factor is at least 20% cheaper on a front set of disc’s and pads vs the ECP ‘sale’ price.
  4. Check the fuel filter, also by any chance are you running a tubing box/remap? Remove it and the fault will disappear, alternatively if it’s adjustable reduce the offset slightly.
  5. Asking prices for the same unit is largely irrelevant when you suspect yours is faulty, generally you find they’ll read CD’s when they won’t read DVD’s, if you want a guide as to the value, look at what they’ve sold for, but it’s ultimately only worth what someone will pay for it.
  6. The 4.2 up to a certain build date had an issue with 5th gear, beyond that date, it’s not the same issue and would need investigating accordingly.
  7. Knowing a few testers personally, I would disagree 😂 Ironically my Dad took the 4.3 that’s been relegated to dog walking duties/tip runs for it’s MOT Monday last, clean pass, no advisory. This Monday, after doing all of 20 miles since the test, the rear tyre blew... it was down to the canvas/belts in two places on the inner edge, the other side was almost as bad.
  8. This unfortunately is one of those ‘how long is a bit of string’ type questions. My first thought is turbo, but without actually investigating, that’s just me assuming the worst based on a very limited description.
  9. I’ll just leave this here for reference.
  10. The EGR is supposed to be covered in soot/carbon, the MAF should never have soot/carbon on it unless something is very wrong. Unfortunately mechanics in franchise dealers have been reduced to following guided diagnostics, this generally consists of plugging the car in and hoping it tells you what part to swap out, if not, you’re SOL.
  11. It’ll likely be fine and stuck to a ferrous metal object, but it’s still a good idea to find it/remove it if possible.
  12. https://www.wd40.com/myths-legends-fun-facts/ WHAT A FISH STORY! Myth: WD-40® contains fish oil. Fact: Consumers have told us over the years that they have caught some of the biggest fish ever after protecting their fish hooks and lures with WD-40®. We believe this legend came from folks assuming that the product must contain fish oil since it appears to attract fish. Sorry Charlie®, it just ain’t so. WD-40 Company has taken steps to respect and conserve the environment, and encourages its users to do the same. While WD-40® can be used to help protect fishing equipment from rust and corrosion, WD-40 Company does not recommend using WD-40® to attract fish. ....you were saying? Water Dispersant 40 is not something you want near brakes, silicon grease or red rubber grease are the only two products that should be used unless specifically stated otherwise by the OEM. I understand you mean well, but please consider that times have changed, we’ve taken heavy metals and asbestos out of brake parts, we’ve also stopped using copper slip.
  13. JapParts/NipParts/BluePrint are either OE level suppliers to most of the Jap brands or buy from the JDM producers who are and re-sell under umbrella brands in the EU. Your local independent factor or the internet is your friend 😉
  14. Silent and effective: Pimoroni fan shim
  15. Over enthusiastic application of silicon grease to the front lower guide pin can cause the rubber seal to form a vacuum which prevents the normal free movement of the calliper and pads, which is capable of producing what you describe. Strip/clean the calliper and pins. Copper slip has its place, but it’s petroleum based and technically could cause galvanic corrosion, but more importantly will dry out, silicon has replaced it for brake work and is supplied as part of the guide pin kits for a reason. WD40 is a dispersant, not a lubricant, it also has no place anywhere near the piston - it’s only £40 for a fully refurbished OE calliper inc bleed nipple or £8ish for the piston kit - I know which approach I would take...