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Avalon

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Avalon last won the day on June 17 2019

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About Avalon

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Alex
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    RAV4 XTR 5dr 2.0 D4D (55) Gen 4.2
  • Toyota Year
    2005
  • Location
    Tyne & Wear

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  1. All the EGR does is put a % of hot exhaust gas back through the engine to be burnt again rather than fresh air, I can’t see an obvious reason why not doing so would increase the engine temperature in any meaningful way.
  2. Save your money, Terraclean effects are short lived and will in no way shape or form improve your combustion process enough to offset the cost. It's easy to strip the EGR and clean it, but if the RAC blocked it off (not really legal to do) and it's running OK then i'd not be overly concerned. EGR blanking plates are a thing and they actually improve the running of your engine because you aren't feeding in exhaust gas to re-burn it, smoother running, better idle and a slight improvement in MPG should follow.
  3. That also links to the issue on my parents 14 plate, just buy the bush and have it replaced, Toyota won’t sell them to you, but they are easy to obtain from 3rd party sellers and any reasonable garage can press the old one out and new ones in for what should be a minimal labour charge.
  4. Your locksmith is taking the proverbial. If you read the manual (I know, the shame!), it tells you how to code in an additional key from memory, I remember having to do it on the XTR before I rescued it. I nicked the transponder/remote out of an old RAV key from ebay, followed the pairing process, had a new blade cut using a photo of the key by an online key cutting place (Timpsons is about £12 if you are in a hurry) and away you go. Total bill was just over £20 from memory. To do this you need a working master key, not the valet key. In extreme cases ‘other’ options exist.
  5. ECP is rarely the cheapest source for anything, often they are horrifically expensive, then use ‘sale’ marketing to justify the ‘Amazing’ discounts. Please don’t fall for it.
  6. Ironically it’s the newest car with the lowest mileage that’s suffered a failure, the ‘08 4.3 shares the same bush design as the ‘14 4.4, but despite having done more miles and being twice as old, it’s had no bush issues. It could be luck, or it could be something changed in the supply chain, time will tell. Compare that to my ‘05 4.2, 15 years old and just under 130k, still running factory bushes. I had expected to do a full overhaul when I did the suspension, but everything was OK.
  7. If the oil is over filled, that’s not likely to be due to a failing turbo, but a ham fisted seller. If it were a diesel, I would be worried the seller is trying to hide excessive oil consumption by over filling it, but that’s another story. It’s easy enough to drain a little of you don’t mind getting your hands dirty, failing that any reputable garage will be happy to change the oil for you - it’s not going to be thy expensive and at least you know it’s been done.
  8. My parents 2014 likely did the same from around 2017/18 working back through the data I have (tyre wore through only a few weeks after the MOT). 2-3 years service life suggests the design or manufacturing is not fit for purpose. Hopefully it’s not as bad as the VW console bush fiasco, we had at least 4 versions of those to fix an obvious design flaw and Powerflex/Superpro/PBS etc. made a small fortune. https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/195980-uneven-tire-wear/
  9. It depends where the corrosion is taking place and how bad, a photo would really help. In general the swept areas would stay clean with use, the edge may lip/corrode if the pad doesn’t sweep all the way to the outer edge. That said, if for example you live by the sea etc. that may play a factor. A decent independent factor should be significantly cheaper than Toyota if it comes down to it.
  10. I know this is an old issue that has come up occasionally over the years, but it’s a thing and I suspect one that will crop up more often as the 4.2’s need bulbs replacing over the years. My 05’s p/s went about 6 years ago (prior to me getting it), the break happens - I suspect - due to metal fatigue on the bend, my reasoning is simple, the far end with the deflection cup on is heavy and the weight will cause stress at that point as the front end deals with our wonderful road surfaces etc. Fast forward 130k, 15 years and the bend snaps. Anyway the other side has failed some time in the last 12
  11. For anyone who has this issue in the future, the answer was the rear control arm bushes, they look OK, but pressure applied from a pry bar tells a different story. Toyota (apparently) don’t sell just the bushes - why am I not surprised? Instead preferring something north of £300 a side for the full control arm and bushes... £746 fully fitted. Compare that with the full set of bushes for both sides (single solid metal cases inner and a two part outer per side) for the grand total of £77.50 delivered. Even paying an hours labour at the local garage saves over £600. Why in this day and age when
  12. Avalon

    Toyota RAV4

    What’s going on is whoever diagnosed the injector/turbo failure either didn’t do a good job, or you are amazingly unlucky and have been dragged into some sort of ‘throw money at it and hope for the best’ style of diagnosis, for the sake of your sanity/bank balance, stop. First question has to be how did the injector failure get diagnosed? Doesn’t the 2.2 have a 5th injector for DPF? Were the four injectors supplied new or at least cleaned/tested and ideally you were given a test report for them? Next up how did the turbo diagnosis happen? Have you checked the old turbo for obvious signs o
  13. Going from 17” to 18” certainly won’t improve the situation, but I’d check the rear springs/shocks if it’s as noticeable as you suggest. Depending on miles/usage and maintenance, they may have seen better days. I just changed my rears after 15 years and nearly 130k, when I tested the old vs new for rebound rate, it was obvious the old ones were well past it, though they still functioned.
  14. Unless you have a way to lift the engine (hoist etc.) then I wouldn’t be in a hurry to remove the engine at home.
  15. BBA Reman - http://www.bba-reman.com They've been amazing every time anyone I know has had to use them.
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