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Everything posted by Avalon

  1. Avalon

    parts catalog

    You can buy the full parts catalogue in electronic form from ebay or the toyota tech site will allow you access on a paid basis, but paying Toyota for a single bolt is dubious when it's not something where tensile strength or specific engineering characteristics are required. Take one off and visit an ironmongers, be prepared to walk away with a handful of them for not much more than Toyota likely want for one, but in fairness if one has given up, it's likely the others aren't far behind anyway.
  2. Appreciate the confirmation Mike, that's pretty much what my tester said when I asked him in 2015 - it's been 4 years and zero issues with them removed. I happened to find them 'cheap' yesterday and figured it was worth mentioning - if only so people who were presented with the issue were aware of it.
  3. Just to follow up from this, genuine Toyota parts are now available on eBay for £229.95 delivered (or best offer). Given i've run without for nearly 4 years, i'll survive without, but less than half list price seems slightly more realistic.
  4. Fitting a HU is pretty similar no matter what brand/model, generally you need an ISO harness adapter (which converts the OEM pin-out/connector to the industry standard) and a SWC adapter depending on if you have SWC. On some cars you also need a fascia kit as it's become fashionable in some cases to have plastics beyond the DIN space connected to the OEM HU. Either way wherever sells you a HU should be able to advise you.
  5. Avalon

    Oh deer!

    I've got a butcher on speed dial as this used to happen several times a year within the family when we were all in a rural location 😄 On the up-side everyone walked away unharmed, that's a lot better than it could have been.
  6. Let's consider how fuel is refined, the base stock in (almost) all cases is exactly the same no matter what brand you buy. Imagine you have a single jug of water and you make 3 glasses of squash using Asda value, Kiora and Robinsons squash, but you only put 20ml of each concentrate in each glass. The Asda stuff is less concentrated, it tastes weak, but it's drinkable, the Kiora tastes OK as does the Robinsons. This is essentially the same as the UK fuel market, brands don't generally own a refinery and supply it's own stations, multiple brands are distributed from the same refinery, the difference between BP, Shell, Asda, Sainsbury's and everyone else is simply down to the blend and amount of additives dispensed as the tanker is filled, this used to be controlled by the tanker driver swiping a card prior to being filled. Generally, supermarket fuels have lower levels of detergent in them, one in particular is reputed to have less in than it's peers, it still meets the standard, but it's not likely to burn as cleanly and that will usually manifest in the exhaust side of things, BP have produced several examples of running engines on premium fuel and showing before/after photo's and in one case ran two different tanks fo fuel, one to each half of the engine, so when you buy a branded fuel, you are buying the additional additive package, the base stock doesn't change*. The exception(s): Shell Vpower or whatever they rebranded it to this time is bunkered separately, it uses a different base stock and therefore is not the same fuel with octane enhancers added like most premium petrol. Shell have also begun experimenting with gas to liquid (GTL), they blended it into the premium diesel and rolled out 100% fleet tests at Liverpool docks about a year ago from memory. What do I use? Costco Premium diesel, it's cheaper than Asda locally and seems to prevent the dreaded variable vane system clogging up, I recently resorted to supermarket fuel for 2,000 miles and the issue came back after several years without any problems. I also rate Shell/BP standard diesel, petrol is a very similar story, on the car's I have that were mapped for 97+ RON I got better results with Shell, though i've nit really tested Costco's premium which has apparently reverted from 99RON to 97 recently.
  7. For the avoidance of doubt go easy on it, literally a metal polishing block or very fine wet and dry lightly over each side of the break, you just need to expose some bare metal so you have a decent surface to conduct from and to, not get the angle grinder out and cut a trench 😄
  8. I’ve used OBD2 code readers for approaching two decades, my current ‘generic’ kit is an Innovate OT-2 usually used with Logworks, unfortunately since the company behind it changed ownership a while back the new owners have made it clear they have zero interest in supporting existing users and removed forum/iOS support altogether. This basically makes it a laptop interface or you have to put up with the not quite so smooth support in Dash Commander (which has also changed ownership recently). Also the OT-2 is a physically big interface with a long extension cable and large control box with inputs for external sensors, it’s not small or discrete and can’t easily be left in place for driving. For this reason I decided to look for something more suitable for the RAV and my criteria was simple: iOS and android support - I use iOS mobile devices generally, but I have a longer term project in mind that will be android based. Low power/supports sleep mode - I normally use my car daily, but on the odd occasion it doesn’t get used for a week, i’d prefer not to have to jump start it. Small - Needs to be plugged in 24/7 and not obtrusive/obvious while driving. With such basic requirements I wasn’t looking to pay major brand interface money, I have specific interfaces for other jobs (VCDS, VCI etc.), but basic OBD functions should easily be possible with a generic Elm327 set-up. So for £9.99 delivered (£14.99 if you prefer Amazon), l had this shipped from Jersey, negotiations are still ongoing about my free cow, seller is having non of it 😞. The big selling point here was it was smaller than my OT-2’s OBD plug, had a on/off switch and claimed to support android/iOS/Windows. Installation is simple, the connector will only fit in one way round and it’s small enough that it can’t interfere with operating peddles etc. as nothing hangs down. It’s picked up easily by Dash Commander and Car Scanner on iOS and can pull fault codes and clear DTC’s as well as access live sensor data (some features are premium/paid on certain apps). You can of course pay a lot more, Scantool for example offer some really good hardware at about 8x the price, Bluetool offer similar hardware but with SRS/AB functions and (paid) coding for things like BMW/VAG functions as an alternative to VCDS for similar money, something like Carista also has some nice features for under £30, but lacks 3rd party support. If you aren’t a fan of smartphone + app based solutions then the Launch V+ is a hand held OBD2 reader for under £30 that has an impressive feature set. Either way something like this will pay for itself in a single use vs. paying a garage to do it.
  9. Given you’ve had the bumper off, i’m going with a loose connection or you’ve pushed a sensor in. As a side note any reversing sensor kit worth using should be ‘intelligent’ which in simple terms means it’s capable of recognising and ignoring objects they remain a constant distance from the sensor when others move, eg tow bars and spare wheel covers, this is especially relevant to RAV’s with rear mounted spare wheels.
  10. When you repaired the traces did you sand back the traces to reveal bare metal before painting? I only ask as i’ve seen people slap paint on and expect it to work. They were usually disappointed.
  11. The issue is it's a bit of a rabbit hole. Resistive vs capacitive screens, branded vs Chinese, hardwired CarPlay vs wireless, TPMS/OBD2/reversing camera/TV support, do you value custom ROM's and an active community or the abandonware that is many of the big name brands? Personally I suspect my next HU will be fully Chinese rather than just made in China, but my usage scenario is more car-PC than HU, something intel based by Joying generally has the best support, but i'm a few months away from buying anything as other work will take priority. Branded options such as the Pioneer SPH-DA130DAB or the 230 for a slightly larger screen are cheap and easy to live with, the resistive screen puts me off, but it's acceptable in real world usage, Kenwood 7017DABS is another option for similar money, you'll be able to retain the steering wheel remote functions with a suitable adapter.
  12. Time to re-visit this again, my 'temporary' solution lasted 28 months and 20k+... Costco Premium Diesel, cheaper than supermarket fuel, but with higher grade detergent package that I presume lead to a cleaner burn and a little carbon scarification. Unfortunately a change in driving pattern/route means I don't go past daily any more and my only local options were Jet/Sainsbury, guess what happened? Yep, back to limp mode, as it took over 2K of 'normal' fuel to get the issue back, I figured i'd make the most of it and go back and test other cleaning options again. Initially actuating the turbo by hand was met with resistance, it didn't ease off after several cycles over a few days and I could still provoke limp mode at will. My weapon of choice this time round is 'Forte Turbo Diesel Cleaner' at £12.50 for 400ml from my local factor and a few pence cheaper on Amazon/eBay, it's not as expensive as other options such as AR6400D or BG244, neither of which had any obvious benefit in my case, but at what is in effect £31.25/ltr, I wouldn't call it cheap. The advice on the back of the bottle is to run two bottles through if you've had a problem. After considering my lifestyle choices I grabbed two bottles and took a detour to neck the tank with Costco's finest. I only had short runs for the next few days, and unfortunately within 15 miles I was back to limp mode. After clearing the code I drove it as normal and by 50 miles, the car felt slightly smoother, the turbo spooled up cleanly and despite my best efforts, I couldn't provoke limp mode. The actuator arm moves a little easier as well, so far it seems to be living up to the claims/feedback. As previously pointed out, non of this will magically fix the root cause, diesel engines produce carbon/soot and carbon loves to stick to carbon, my intention is to avoid dismantling an otherwise mechanically serviceable turbo (120K/14yrs) simply because it's dirty, if I can strike a happy balance of decent fuel and say a bottle or two of Forte every service, then to me at least, that's an acceptable outcome. I appreciate the arguments for replacing it and getting another 5-10+ years of trouble free motoring, but the cost to do so would be several times what i'd spend on treatment and I doubt i'll still be running this particular RAV in 10 years with 250K on it.
  13. TBH I prefer the flip option, for the extra few pence. Even ignoring the material/design advantages and the not being stabbed in the leg/holes in the pocket points... flip keys don’t look like they belong in the 90’s. Besides, I have tried some of the improved clone shells with mixed results. The blade cutting point is interesting though, I have my key code which allows me to have a blade cut by number by an auto locksmith, most normal key places on the high street aren’t set-up to do this, so it’s jigged (or put simply: traced from the original key blade). I used to run a company that did mechanical engraving amongst many other things as many independent key/cobbler places do, as such I know my local guy quite well as we shared suppliers for many years and both have common history in the motor trade and a I have a habit of bringing him interesting high security locks to cut blanks for. As the RAV OE shell is curved, he can’t run a clean pass on the jig other than on an angle, which means the blank will be cut on an angle, which isn’t something i’d suggest is a good idea and certainly not something that will end well if you need a copy of a copy made as the results just get worse and worse. The solution ideal is to destroy the old fob to get the blade out so it will sit flat, while I personally have no problem at all doing that as a I know I have options, Timpson’s tend to run newer jigs and are slightly better suited to curved fob bodies. Either way £2.50 is cheap and my guy is honest enough to tell me to go and be ripped off by his competition when it’s in my best interest 😉
  14. Avalon

    Tow bar

    In Ireland they're generally called trucks from what I remember, or at least the NI/IRE natives I know use 'truck', but then again they have at least three words for most things 😄 I also remember the joys of an MOT wash from my time in NI, the first time anyone said the car needed washing for it's test I laughed, when they said it was the underside of the car that needed washing I really thought it was a wind-up.
  15. Avalon

    Tow bar

    A station wagon is the term North America uses to describe an estate car, the term SUV is more commonly used to describe a RAV, either way it’s not a station wagon.
  16. It’s fair to say that the fob design for the 4.2 and 4.3 sucked, Toyota tried to address it with the change in plastic on the 4.3, but the same is true of most Toyota/Lexus remote fobs of the same vintage. The plastic loop for the split ring cracks, the joint where the blade is set into the shell cracks and eventually you have to replace the shell and have a new blade cut. Unfortunately you’ll have the same issue again in x years. The solution is cheap, inexpensive and Chinese, it also reduces the risk of getting holes in your pocket/purse. Go on eBay/Amazon etc. and spend £3-4ish on a flip key conversion kit. This looks similar to your average VW flip key and comes with a blank blade. Take it and your existing key to Timpsons and hand over £10 (other key places should be £5 ish) and they’ll cut the replacement blade to match in a matter of minutes. After that undo the screw on your existing fob, the two screws on the new fob and pop the remote out, place it into the new shell and replace the two screws. Congratulations, you now have a significantly stronger/durable and more pocket friendly flip fob that’s better than Toyota’s design. I’ve done a few now, the only issue is in some of the 4.2’s the ignition pickup coil doesn’t register the fob and intermittently won’t disarm the immobiliser, the trick to this is to use a pin to remove the IMMO chip (it just slides out the side on the 4.2 fob) and use a dab of glue to place it on the edge closest to the ignition when the key is used as per the pic. Hopefully this is of use to someone, I have lost track of the number of Toyota fob’s i’ve replaced in the last 14 years due to cracking, this design works so much more effectively. It also works for any other compatible Toyota key of a similar vintage and other versions are available for the 4.3 and later.
  17. Diesel probably isn’t ideally suitable for your usage, the engine will take longer to reach the correct thermal condition to operate efficiently, a short cold run isn’t going to do that.
  18. Avalon

    Tow bar

    No - they’re different generations of RAV, a 99 is a 4.1 and a 04 is a 4.2, also neither are wagons.
  19. May help if you gave us some idea of what you want from the upgrade? Eg DAB? CarPlay support etc?
  20. Engine wise buy what’s in the best overall condition within your budget, the diesel ‘hate’ is largely misplaced if you aren’t averse to a little work and follow some basic common sense. I say that having owned two diesel 4.2’s that each saw out 100k without any engine issues and something close to 350k total on 4.2 & 4.3 diesels in the family and the 4.3 2.2D has known issues. My current 55 plate XTR from November (so the last production run) has been pretty reliable since new, a DMF/Clutch at 80K? was nothing to get excited about and Toyota picked up a decent chunk of it as goodwill without being asked, the SCV’s were free even out of warranty, yes it needs a timing belt every 5yrs/60K, but even the main dealer fixed price isn’t unreasonable (£275). Everyone worries about turbo’s, but if you follow basic common sense (the kind of thing anyone who has ever owned a turbo’d car should do anyway) then they seem to hold up well. The biggest issue is oil starvation followed by carbon buildup on the control rings leading to hesitation/surging. The former is mitigated by regular oil changes using a decent quality oil, drop the sump every 10yrs and check/clean and replace the pickup if you’re genuinely concerned, the latter takes me about 60 seconds to alleviate at each service by manually actuating the mechanism and avoiding supermarket diesel and using millers eco seems to helps minimise/reduce carbon buildup. I say that with the original turbo on 120K, so I like to think I must be doing something right? EGR issues are easily preventable, again use quality fuel, and every few years clean the thing, £2 for brake cleaner and an old toothbrush + 30 minutes of your time isn’t that bad. Even after 95k when I first did my current RAV’s EGR (ran on Shell most of its life), the buildup was very minimal. The 4.2 2.0 D4D lacks a DPF, so no worries on that score. Cheap and reliable at this age are highly subjective terms for a car that has been round the earth four times (100k), by this age/mileage irrespective of engine type, rust and general wear and tear come into play, not so much on the body/chassis (though if you work on your own car, it’s likely at the point where preventative maintenance is a good idea), but things will be starting to wear out and any work that is required, usually leads to more work as parts don’t dismantle as easily and it’s sometimes a false economy to put them back on without renewing them. For example this month I started overhauling my RAV, it has an MOT and no significant issues other than needing a shock absorber and a diff seal, I initially eyeballed the first phase of work at £4-500 for parts including £190 on tyres. By the time I finish, i’ll likely be 50% over the top end of that, unless you look closely and get underneath it, you really won’t see much obvious to show that money has been spent. I could have done things cheaper if I used lesser brands/used parts or just done the bare minimum to keep it road legal, but my point is expect to get your hands dirty - or pay someone else to - sooner rather than later. Rav’s are generally pretty reliable/well built and easy to get along with - we’re on our 4th in the family so far 😉
  21. The guy I used seemed to distribute 3rd party software/tools to the industry - he had a site doing so last a I looked - most of it was nothing more than reselling cloned hardware with restrictions bypassed for 1/2 price, at one point I needed a WinStar set-up and that’s where I remembered his details from. TBH I was slightly desperate as the situation was I only had a valet key, i’d been told years earlier by a Toyota senior tech who had to come and see a previous RAV to authorise a few grand of work (instrument cluster replacement) that the security ECU swap wouldn’t be needed as he could reset it, but on calling Toyota this time round I was fobbed off with a 1.5K quote. In my case the alarm was active and while driving anywhere was fine, it required the alarm to sound every time I parked up/ignition off, or unlocked and started up, not popular with neighbours if you work antisocial hours. He turned up, pulled the key code, cut two new master keys (yes, they open the glove box), coded in two immo chips, synced the remote fob’s and left £200 better off 45 mins later, I swapped one over to a flip key recently as Toyota keys have a nasty habit of cracking the plastic over time and this is one occasion where China has a much better product than Toyota.
  22. I didn’t actually bother to stand and watch him, but Techstream will code keys, you can do it yourself, you just need a laptop running it, OBD lead and to source the key parts, know your 5 digit key code and find someone willing/able to cut a blade from it. You’ll also need the remote/immo chip but they’re easily sourced on eBay etc. On a side note, spend £4 on a 3rd party flip fob case while you’re at it - they’re much more durable than the Toyota and cloned Toyota versions.
  23. It’s really not that complex. If you have a master key, you can (usually) code in another master key using the process above. If you have a valet key, you can’t code anything in from it (you wouldn’t want a valet key that allows coding, it defeats the purpose of a valet key). If you need to code new master keys when you only have a valet key, then you need to have blades cut from the Toyota key code and someone with the ability to remove existing master key’s immo’s from the security ECU and code new ones in. I resorted to paying someone £200 to do the job from start to finish.
  24. Technically you have to inform your insurance company of any deviation from the manufacturers specification. In this case the insurer may or may not care, but cover will likely be restricted to restoring it to standard and not current condition in the unlikely event of a claim and premium increased anyway, which makes little sense. Also because it’s classed as a temporary change DVLA aren’t interested.