Avalon

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Everything posted by Avalon

  1. £600?! Even if they did inner/outer brake hoses as well and flushed the system, that's obscene, and that's ignoring the bizarre 'upside down' claim.
  2. Avalon

    Poor mpg ?

    Terraclean 🤣 Lets start with the basics, diesels are quite thermally efficient and as such (relative to petrol engines) generally take a little longer to warm up, you don't get decent mpg until it's warm, so the division of town/motorway without context is pretty meaningless. Given it's currently still winter, we still have cold weather and winter fuel additive, this reduces mpg. Next up if you are measuring the mpg using the trip computer, give up now, unless you've got data for multiple necked tank fills to allow for fill variations etc. then you're wasting your time. Download 'Road Trip' or similar, it'll calculate mpg etc. for you and (assuming you put the data in) break it down by fuel type etc.
  3. Off the top of my head that’s boost solenoid, injector voltage and EGR voltage and MAF. I know you said you’d cleaned all of the sensors and EGR, now is probably a good time to invest in a VCI lead and start pricing up a new MAF Or swapping a known good one in, also check the EGR valve is actually operating/getting power, I’ve seen some horrible/stupid bodges over the years in attempts to stop it opening rather than just blanking it. Injector issues include this engine often tend to be the 5th injector in the exhaust, is it smoking?
  4. Following on from the budget OBD2 reader I posted about, here’s another budget friendly way to add a little insight into alternator/battery condition without digging out a multimeter or laptop and VCI. For about £17 (prices seem to fluctuate and are cheaper/slower direct from China vs UK sourced), you can buy what is marketed as a BM2 12v battery monitor. I say marketed as because the iOS/Android app is known as BM2, the adapter itself doesn’t seem to have a brand name, but they’ve sold them for years and it’s been on my shopping list since they were circa £50. Installation is simple, 10mm spanner to loosen the battery terminal nuts, connect the red to positive and black to negative, download the app and it syncs and will log battery %, cranking voltage, alternator output testing and journey time to give you an idea how long the engine has been charging the battery. One thing I would suggest is charging the battery fully before you install this - it makes getting accurate charge levels a lot easier or it takes a while to calibrate itself. Better yet it’ll send push notifications when the battery is low, obviously being bluetooth, range is a claimed 10m and things like walls reduce this, if you are out of range, the push notification is queued until you are in range. Having tested it back to back with the multimeter, the claimed accuracy of 0.02v is spot on as is the draw figure of 1mA. If I had this a few months back, I may have been aware that my alternator wasn’t charging the battery sufficiently before it died and left me in the outside lane of 3 at rush hour. For the relatively low price and ability to run multiple devices (cars, bikes etc.) and ability to move from one car to another if you change, it’s decent value. I have no link to any of the sellers on eBay/Amazon etc. selling them, but if anyone struggles to find one I can post a link.
  5. Just to confirm after doing the job, 100% no need to remove the full shaft/separate the ball joint, it’s a 10 min job to remove the intercooler, engine cover and rear support bracket/glow plug relay bracket. The one thing I wish I had to make life easier was a longer 14mm ratchet spanner, though the normal methods of extension work (pipe). Obvious rules apply, disconnect the battery and put it in charge - a duff alternator will run it down relatively quickly depending on if you were using lights etc. 1. Remove intercooler (3 bolts, loosen two worm drives), engine cover, rear support bracket (single bolt) and glow plug relay bracket (single bolt), you may also wish to remove the loom bracket (single 10mm bolt) on the rear left corner of the block. 2. Remove plastic cap by sliding it off (towards the wing), unscrew the alternator but *carefully* and put it in the new alternator for safe keeping. Undo the bottom 12mm bolt, it’s easy to find (look at the new alternator) and won’t be overly tight, 1/4” drive is perfect. 3. Alternator bolt is held in a C cup on the wing side, 14mm ratchet spanner from the rear is the easiest way, unless you have a long ratchet spanner or a very long 1/4” breaker and 14mm socket. Once loose the bolt is too long to remove, so just slide it out as far as you can to release the far end. 4. Tensioner pulley is again 14mm, I put the spanner in and then used cord over the end and hooked it over the bonnet close bracket, this allows finer control over how much tension to take off, especially if you are doing this solo. Lift the belt off and the alternator will pivot free. 5. Wiggle the alternator free and be careful not to drop it.... having dropped it, pick it up and bring up past the engine and out through the top. Yes, it’s tight, you will need to move the large flexi pipe to the right and the injector loom/glow relay loom out the way. 6. Compare the two alternators, including the p/n, my 05 D4D XTR uses a 130amp, but one manufacturer was happy to try and sell me a 100amp unit, also pay attention to the sleeve in the (large) pivot bolt aperture, it likely needs tapping back as flush as it’ll go, or you’ll have to take it out and start again because it won’t fit. 7.Reverse of 5, I found it easier to loosely put the lower bolt in first, it allows you to approximately line up the rest. I had to combine a pry bar and the ratchet spanner to get enough pressure on the pivot bolt to get the taper to start into the thread. 8. If replacing the belt (it’s £7 from ECP and likely less at your local factor) then route it accordingly, I took it off the tensioner pulley and put it over the alternator as this was easier due to the ridges. Tensioner is again realistically a lot easier from top pulling the spanner upwards as you have a better range of movement, cord trick makes life easy. Check that the belt is sitting in the grooves at the top and the bottom (no need to remove the arch liner, it’ll pull back far enough to see). Put the rest back together and remember your battery probably isn’t fully charged, especially if you ignored the bit about charging it at the start. After that check the voltages, but the lack of warning lights is usually a good start (I got them whenever RPM was below 1500). Cost wise this isn’t a bad job, you can get remanufactured units for as little as £100. Personally I paid £148 for a Remy with 3 years warranty, expect to pay a surcharge of £25-50 unless you’re in very good terms with your factor, for comparison ECP is just over £251 + surcharge.
  6. Tensioner/pulley/pump/alternator, should be easier to pinpoint in person. When was the timing belt last done and was the pump changed?
  7. Devil is in the detail, if the DPF is excluded in the warranty terms, then they may not have to honour it. For example I was able to claim for the RAV I have now for alloy wheel corrosion (5 new wheels after 2.5 years due to paint issue), but my other RAV was on Toyota approved used warranty which excluded it. Realistically the regulations now require that if a DPF was fitted as standard or after a certain date, then it is required to be present and functional to pass an MOT and be road legal, so removal isn’t an option. That leaves stripping and cleaning, cleaning in situ or replacement. Realistically the only one a franchise dealer will present to you is going to be replacement because they’re not interested in other options. The issue however is usually because people are using a car in a manner that it’s not designed for, a diesel is generally not a good choice for short runs, a DPF equipped diesel is a really bad choice for short runs.
  8. Even ignoring that it’s unlikely to have caused a serious issue if run to the point the engine cuts out, such minor differences could be down to fill variation, cold weather, winter fuel package, under inflated tyres, running heater/AC more, change in driving route/style etc. Unless you have a few years of data to compare to, it’s a storm in a tea cup. I say this as the 4.2 I currently run was filled with petrol (not by me) and run to the point it died, that was over 60,000 miles and a decade ago. Tank was drained, filter replaced and fresh fuel flushed through, no related issues since.
  9. Apparently this just made it to the top of my list of jobs to do after ending up stranded in the outside of 3 lanes at rush hour with about 30 seconds warning. I managed to jump it using a battery pack and make it to safety, but not my idea of fun. After the original made it to 125K I can’t complain that much. My reaction to the accepted logic of dropping the shaft etc. was ‘Hadaway and .....’. Going via the top looks a much easier route initially, also one that’s less likely to result in me replacing a drive shaft, ball joint and TRE and possibly having to have tracking done just because at this stage it’s not worth putting old parts back if disassembling/reassembling.
  10. Sadly at this stage ‘acceptable’ LED’s for retrofitting to reflectors are few and far between, the industry has made significant improvements, but we’re still in a situation where the majority of cheap kits shouldn’t be fitted to a car (and that’s ignoring the requirement for e marking).
  11. Most of the cheap LED set-ups are pretty awful. Have a look at some of the reviews and pray your MOT tester is blind or DGAF. https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/blog/are-led-headlight-bulbs-the-brightest/
  12. Presumably before spending on that lot you read the fault codes? Is it all the time, or just occasionally?
  13. Avalon

    RAV 4 Gone

    Good luck with the mini - I remember the hate that came free with the early ones, they were popular with driving instructors at one point, I remember watching an instructor have to get out of the car to pick up a wing mirror that fell off a new one, strangely enough they weren’t that popular a few years later.
  14. For run of the mill stuff any reputable garage should have multiple accounts with local motor factors and be able to have parts the same day (brakes, wipers, shafts, drop links, bearings, callipers, brake hoses, suspension etc.) - this is how the industry has worked for decades, ECP should be the source of last resort, don’t believe the rubbish about a ‘sale’, my factor is at least 20% cheaper on a front set of disc’s and pads vs the ECP ‘sale’ price.
  15. Check the fuel filter, also by any chance are you running a tubing box/remap? Remove it and the fault will disappear, alternatively if it’s adjustable reduce the offset slightly.
  16. Asking prices for the same unit is largely irrelevant when you suspect yours is faulty, generally you find they’ll read CD’s when they won’t read DVD’s, if you want a guide as to the value, look at what they’ve sold for, but it’s ultimately only worth what someone will pay for it.
  17. The 4.2 up to a certain build date had an issue with 5th gear, beyond that date, it’s not the same issue and would need investigating accordingly.
  18. Knowing a few testers personally, I would disagree 😂 Ironically my Dad took the 4.3 that’s been relegated to dog walking duties/tip runs for it’s MOT Monday last, clean pass, no advisory. This Monday, after doing all of 20 miles since the test, the rear tyre blew... it was down to the canvas/belts in two places on the inner edge, the other side was almost as bad.
  19. This unfortunately is one of those ‘how long is a bit of string’ type questions. My first thought is turbo, but without actually investigating, that’s just me assuming the worst based on a very limited description.
  20. I’ll just leave this here for reference.
  21. The EGR is supposed to be covered in soot/carbon, the MAF should never have soot/carbon on it unless something is very wrong. Unfortunately mechanics in franchise dealers have been reduced to following guided diagnostics, this generally consists of plugging the car in and hoping it tells you what part to swap out, if not, you’re SOL.
  22. It’ll likely be fine and stuck to a ferrous metal object, but it’s still a good idea to find it/remove it if possible.
  23. https://www.wd40.com/myths-legends-fun-facts/ WHAT A FISH STORY! Myth: WD-40® contains fish oil. Fact: Consumers have told us over the years that they have caught some of the biggest fish ever after protecting their fish hooks and lures with WD-40®. We believe this legend came from folks assuming that the product must contain fish oil since it appears to attract fish. Sorry Charlie®, it just ain’t so. WD-40 Company has taken steps to respect and conserve the environment, and encourages its users to do the same. While WD-40® can be used to help protect fishing equipment from rust and corrosion, WD-40 Company does not recommend using WD-40® to attract fish. ....you were saying? Water Dispersant 40 is not something you want near brakes, silicon grease or red rubber grease are the only two products that should be used unless specifically stated otherwise by the OEM. I understand you mean well, but please consider that times have changed, we’ve taken heavy metals and asbestos out of brake parts, we’ve also stopped using copper slip.
  24. JapParts/NipParts/BluePrint are either OE level suppliers to most of the Jap brands or buy from the JDM producers who are and re-sell under umbrella brands in the EU. Your local independent factor or the internet is your friend 😉
  25. Silent and effective: Pimoroni fan shim