Avalon

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Everything posted by Avalon

  1. Asking prices for the same unit is largely irrelevant when you suspect yours is faulty, generally you find they’ll read CD’s when they won’t read DVD’s, if you want a guide as to the value, look at what they’ve sold for, but it’s ultimately only worth what someone will pay for it.
  2. The 4.2 up to a certain build date had an issue with 5th gear, beyond that date, it’s not the same issue and would need investigating accordingly.
  3. Knowing a few testers personally, I would disagree 😂 Ironically my Dad took the 4.3 that’s been relegated to dog walking duties/tip runs for it’s MOT Monday last, clean pass, no advisory. This Monday, after doing all of 20 miles since the test, the rear tyre blew... it was down to the canvas/belts in two places on the inner edge, the other side was almost as bad.
  4. This unfortunately is one of those ‘how long is a bit of string’ type questions. My first thought is turbo, but without actually investigating, that’s just me assuming the worst based on a very limited description.
  5. I’ll just leave this here for reference.
  6. The EGR is supposed to be covered in soot/carbon, the MAF should never have soot/carbon on it unless something is very wrong. Unfortunately mechanics in franchise dealers have been reduced to following guided diagnostics, this generally consists of plugging the car in and hoping it tells you what part to swap out, if not, you’re SOL.
  7. It’ll likely be fine and stuck to a ferrous metal object, but it’s still a good idea to find it/remove it if possible.
  8. https://www.wd40.com/myths-legends-fun-facts/ WHAT A FISH STORY! Myth: WD-40® contains fish oil. Fact: Consumers have told us over the years that they have caught some of the biggest fish ever after protecting their fish hooks and lures with WD-40®. We believe this legend came from folks assuming that the product must contain fish oil since it appears to attract fish. Sorry Charlie®, it just ain’t so. WD-40 Company has taken steps to respect and conserve the environment, and encourages its users to do the same. While WD-40® can be used to help protect fishing equipment from rust and corrosion, WD-40 Company does not recommend using WD-40® to attract fish. ....you were saying? Water Dispersant 40 is not something you want near brakes, silicon grease or red rubber grease are the only two products that should be used unless specifically stated otherwise by the OEM. I understand you mean well, but please consider that times have changed, we’ve taken heavy metals and asbestos out of brake parts, we’ve also stopped using copper slip.
  9. JapParts/NipParts/BluePrint are either OE level suppliers to most of the Jap brands or buy from the JDM producers who are and re-sell under umbrella brands in the EU. Your local independent factor or the internet is your friend 😉
  10. Silent and effective: Pimoroni fan shim
  11. Over enthusiastic application of silicon grease to the front lower guide pin can cause the rubber seal to form a vacuum which prevents the normal free movement of the calliper and pads, which is capable of producing what you describe. Strip/clean the calliper and pins. Copper slip has its place, but it’s petroleum based and technically could cause galvanic corrosion, but more importantly will dry out, silicon has replaced it for brake work and is supplied as part of the guide pin kits for a reason. WD40 is a dispersant, not a lubricant, it also has no place anywhere near the piston - it’s only £40 for a fully refurbished OE calliper inc bleed nipple or £8ish for the piston kit - I know which approach I would take...
  12. It works perfectly with the official cable/charger or any other non e marked (dumb) cable. While it’s the latest in an unfortunate series of blunders in pi history, it’s one that can very easily be avoided.
  13. As per the thread I bumped a few weeks back with the price update/eBay availability, just do as seemingly everyone else already does and run without them. It’s ironically cheaper to import them from Japan inc. duties/VAT than source them from a franchise dealer.
  14. UK RAV’s are produced in Japan and shipped to the UK, this takes time. Also as a completely new model it’s likely not being produced at full speed and is prone to production issues being identified (eg the brake fix). Demand (pre-orders) obviously outstrip supply initially and will for some time, add in all the delivered stock needing corrective work done before it can be sold, and it’s obvious that if you want a new RAV, it’ll take time, and the date is more likely to get pushed back than brought forward. You can also probably get a cracking deal on the previous generation if you push the dealer and not wait more than a few days. @marlinleg I’m just grateful that most of them use the lay-by’s, it used to be they’d park in residential areas overnight which was even more annoying.
  15. Only if you use a cable that you probably shouldn’t be using - the dumb ones work perfectly afaik. The heat issue is a different matter, i’m not really convinced the firmware update makes a big enough difference and that probably needs active cooling to fix, which isn’t ideal.
  16. In fairness, it’s a convenience rather than a necessity. If it really bothers you, then a full new cap is £13 delivered on eBay, a used one is about half that.
  17. You mean brake shoes? All the usual suspects produce them and they’re cheap (£12 upwards depending on brand), grab a spring/clip kit while you’re at if the existing ones are past it as again they’re cheap (£8+). Are you sure they actually need replacing? It’s just I have 120K in my existing set and they still have loads of life left as they literally clamp to the inner disc hub so shouldn’t really wear.
  18. ... Unless you have the keys in your hand, they can change it.
  19. I’m currently playing with a Pi install based on Crankshaft/OpenAuto to test vs a full android HU, unfortunately the Pi foundation decided now was the time to release the Pi4 and that will complicate things slightly as it’s new hardware. It’s the modern carputer that some of us were building/running 15? years ago.
  20. I’ve not bothered to try spotify in the 17 plate in the family, but I would suggest checking the phone/app volume first.
  21. Would now be a bad time to suggest CarPlay - while drastically improved recently - is over rated? Or that android auto is only marginally better? Just saying 😂
  22. The DMX7017 and the Pioneer 130/230 are both credible options, the 130 is a nicer unit with a capacitive screen, but is iOS only (no android auto), the 230 resistive screen puts me off and The DMX is the same, also it’s lack of firmware updates to fix known issues in the beginning (it’s only had one) were a concern.
  23. Try ’Roadtrip’ for iOS and Android, not only does it do all this and more, but it also exports to a csv if you want to use the data for anything else.
  24. Avalon

    Rav4 issues

    A valid point and one I considered before starting the overhaul on my 4.2. For me it came down to ‘better the devil you know’. I work in the basis that my car is worth very little, it can therefore depreciate very little. If I spent £6K on a newer car, i’d see depreciation on it and in that kind of bracket likely be buying something that would need similar work done sooner rather than later. I would rather roll the dice on £1500 of parts and do the work myself knowing the work done means it’s very unlikely that i’ll need to touch those parts again for several years, than be guaranteed to loose a similar amount in depreciation over the same period on a car who’s history I don’t know and then likely have to do similar work anyway. As you say a point exists where the opposite is true, but for me, this wasn’t it. That said, i’d have probably not have spent £1600 on an engine rebuild and just fitted a used part for 1/4 of the price which obviously changes the equation quite a lot.
  25. I really like the Viofo A119v2 (not had a v3 yet) and A129 kits, for the money it’s frankly amazing spec wise and Viofo keep the updates/support coming. I would personally opt for the floor route, it’s the side the fuse box is on and in my case (4.2), it’s the side that the cable conduit goes to the rear door. Either way it shouldn’t cause issues with DAB. Also make sure you get the ACC hard wire kit so it drops the camera into park mode.