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Everything posted by Unklian

  1. I used the above document when my old Aygo MMT had jerky changes. Transformed the car to as new condition. I believe the clutch actuator is always traveling the same short part of it's travel. As part of the procedure, it travels its full length before relearning its new position. It truly transformed the car.
  2. When my wife & I had Aygos, we used the flat Aero blades, they were brilliant. With the Yaris's attachment, I can't use the same brand. They have to be the "Hybrid" type. My replacement will probably be from here...... https://www.wiperblades.co.uk/search?keyword=hybrid
  3. Our 2016 Yaris has only one wiper. Like all Aygos...... Normal these days.
  4. https://www.reddit.com/r/IdiotsInCars/comments/dt5e35/i_have_no_words_for_this_level_of_stupidity/
  5. The Negative or Earth is always disconnected first for a good reason. If you are removing the positive connection using a spanner and the other end touches the bodywork, The spanner will short circuit and will be very, very hot in less than a second. If you are spannering on the Earth side and touch bodywork......so what. Years ago, a mate was working on a starter solenoid on a Mini. Working on the positive side, spanner earthed through his wedding ring. It glowed. Pulled the ring off with a lot of skin. A lesson hard learned.
  6. We had the same problem. 2016 Yaris 1.33. 8000 miles on the clock. It was the 41st vehicle I'd owned. After owning it for a grand total of 8 weeks, I traded it in for another car. I pride myself in being a reasonable driver. Driving many cars, bikes & lorries. I'm an IAM member, I'm surely capable of driving a Yaris?......No...... This was the first car I've ever owned that I stalled constantly. My wife's Aygo 1.0 was never stalled in about 4 years of ownership. Every hill start became a challenge, the clutch biting point just seemed to assume a new "random" position. Never known a car like it. It was like being a learner again. It became so annoying I traded it in and lost £2000. I was glad to be shut of it. NOT glad of the £2000 though. It is not "just you". Ian.
  7. The volume for the speed camera is in the settings......However......if you press the "volume up" button on the steering wheel as the announcement is being made, that also works. This feature has caused me problems. e.g. Music is playing as I'm driving along......I press and hold down the "volume down" button to reduce the volume. Just as I do this, a speed limit announcement is made. The navigation volume will now be reduced. I now have the option of going into settings and turning it back up or...... pressing the "volume up" button on the steering wheel as the next announcement is being made, It annoys me.
  8. Yes, I'm doing that...... Satnav set at 3, music at 20. If I then turn up the music......Say 35...... Satnav announcement is VERY loud. Can this "link" be removed?
  9. There seems to be a problem with mine too...... Set the Nav. volume to 3 with music set at 20......Everything perfect. Music on or off, Nav. is just right. Tune comes on I like......Turn music up to 35......Nav makes deafening announcements. I've tried all combinations, but they seem to be linked somehow.
  10. I stand corrected. I thought it would be just a swap-out at the dealerships, then inflator swap elsewhere. Didn't realise they could do that.
  11. Burrows Rotherham suggested they needed the car for 1.5 hours...... Glad I'm not paying 1.5 hours for this...... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qi5OzZl42OQ
  12. Bit late replying but...... Your "problem" I suspect isn't a problem at all. The bottom hose on a car (in winter or cool weather) never gets hot until the engine is fully up to temperature and then allowed to sit stationary with the engine running and heater off, so thereis no air passing over the radiator. The thermostat usually has a tiny bypass hole to allow the passage of a miniscule amount of water all the time so that the thermostat is ready to open as soon as necessary. In the current climate, even at walking pace, the very efficient aluminium radiator will instantly cool any water passing through it. Probably the only way to test it is a swift run up the motorway. Leave the engine running with heater off, the radiator will quickly get hot from top (first) to bottom. By the time the bottom hose is hot, the radiator fan will cut in and ensure water returning to the engine is cooled. In winter (now) our blue light takes about a mile to go out. in summer, about half that. I think your car is perfectly normal. Ian.
  13. Hi All. 2015 MK3 Yaris. I'd like to access the rear of my cigarette lighter / power socket for a 12 volt feed. Before I snap barbs off plastic interior fittings trying to do this, could somebody please tell me which bits to pull / push, location of any hidden screws. Do I need to remove the gear lever surround / centre console first? Cheers. Ian.
  14. Ensure the car is parked on exactly level ground. If there is no "twist" in the anti roll bar, it will be completely safe. As you loosen the brackets, the bar will be very easy to move up & down.
  15. Hi everybody. As the title...... Is fitting power fold mirrors as easy as buying 2 mirrors and the switch? Is all the wiring / fuses already in place or...... Is it a wiring loom job? Cheers. Ian.
  16. Can't remember where I found this info but I bought one of these and it fits correctly. You will also need to source a bolt / handwheel to secure it in the boot. "All models can use a space saver spare 15" wheel 15x4b with 125/70/15 tyre Yaris 1.3 2007" http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-YARIS-MK2-5DR-SPARE-WHEEL-SPACE-SAVER-T125-70-D15-2006-2011-/222379654631?hash=item33c6dc3de7:g:m8kAAOSw44BYfJ5n Ian.
  17. Riding the clutch...... Imagine you are driving along very, very slowly, less than walking pace. You can't do this with your foot off the clutch, even at tickover, the car will want to drive at about 5mph. You will have to hold the clutch about half-way down and let the clutch slip a bit to achieve the slow crawl. What this means is, the two parts of the clutch are slipping against each other at different speeds. They are designed to do this for short periods of time bit it generates a lot of heat & wear. If you had to drive up a very long hill in a traffic queue slipping the clutch all the time, it will heat to the stage it is burning and you can smell it. At this point, it is being killed. This is called riding the clutch and is very bad practice and will cost you money. The MMT gearbox / clutch can also do this. (But costs about £800 to replace at Toyota instead of £250 at......anywhere). (Cheats are available) ;-) To avoid this with MMT. Sit in traffic in Neutral. When a decent gap appears, pop it in "E". You will set off, the clutch will engage fully so it is not slipping. Move forward in the queue then come to a stop and back into neutral.......repeat. Hope this helps. Ian. A bit extreme, but you can destroy a clutch in less than a minute acting like a nobber. This bloke attempted a burnout. Instead, the clutch was slipping, not the tyres. Probably a couple of thousands of dollars worth of smoke here. Just re-read your post. Don't worry about your choice. Mine is now 9 years old and treated nicely, should last just fine. Munual or MMT, you can ruin it with abuse......see above......notice use of "F-word" at the end when he realises what he has done and the cost implications. Ian.
  18. With regards to number 2...... Swapping modes does no harm. I have had my 9 year old Aygo MMT from new and have changed modes whilst driving on every trip. When I see a hill approaching, rather than let the gearbox change up just as the slope begins, (which then requires an instant down change), I will pop it into Manual, climb the hill, then as I reach the brow, push across back into Easy. The gearstick on these cars is just a switch, use it freely. If possible, as has been suggested to you......don't let it ride the clutch. This is poor driving in a manual or MMT. Ian.
  19. Modern discs & pads wear very quickly. Treat them more as a service item. I drive my Aygo "Gently" but replaced the original discs / pads at 24000miles. These were replaced with EBC black pads and discs. My Aygo is now 9 years old and these too are about to be replaced at 57000miles. This time I will try Mintex pads & discs. Only about £60.00 and a morning to fit them carefully & properly. £60.00 for 4 years of bringing a car to a stop reliably in all weathers is very inexpensive I think. Modern discs rust incredibly quickly (overnight) if parked up wet or in a damp place. Ian.
  20. Turn on the ignition. Turn on the heated rear screen. Turn on the headlights. Wait about 10 seconds. Now start your car. Is it a squealing sound? Is it louder / worse than before. If it is, you may have a loose alternator belt? Ian.
  21. If you have no mechanical knowledge...... It maybe that you have only just noticed your air-conditioning compressor working. It also starts the cooling fan on the radiator. Tomorrow, make sure your air-conditioning is off. Start the Aygo. Let it sit for a few seconds. Turn on the heater fan......just on "1" will do. Listen carefully...... Press the air-con switch. Bit of a clunk then whirring fan noises? Is that the noise? It will stop after 30 seconds to a minute, then after a pause, start again. It will keep going on / off while the air-con is in use. If that IS the noise, your Aygo is behaving perfectly normally. Ian.
  22. I took the towing hook cover down to my local Toyota garage for them to colour match. I ordered a new bumper and one corner piece, they re-used the other. From memory, I think it was £280 ish. Not cheap but they did a lovely job with a perfect paint match. (As I bent my wife's car, it HAD to be right). Ian.
  23. Filling your front bumper will not work. The Aygo front bumper is very flexible. Filler......even flexible filler......will not move enough. Buy a used front bumper off ebay which needs no filler, just spraying. It will be a perfect fit as they all come from the same mold. With no rush, it can be sprayed while off the car (as mine was) then fitted later if your time is important to you. Or......buy a used one, have it sprayed & fit it yourself or have a friend help you. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-AYGO-05-08-FRONT-BUMPER-GENUINE-TOYOTA-PART-9-/121606035761?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c5048d931 A couple of novices could do it in a morning with very basic tools...... http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/99929-front-bumper-replacement/?hl=%2Bbumper+%2Breplacement Ian. (If you look at the damage on my wife's, I considered this too damaged to fill.)
  24. Because the Aygo clutch is so light, if it is incorrectly adjusted, it is difficult to discern where the free play ends and where you actually start to actuate the clutch. Adjust it "looser" AT THE GEARBOX END and suddenly, the free play at the pedal end becomes obvious. You can then press the pedal down with the tip of your little finger. If your clutch doesn't have any free play you can feel with just the lightest press, it is wrongly adjusted and actually has NO free play. ie, it is already partly "pressed". If it disengages after 1cm, you have NO free play. Introduce some slack, trust me, when you have genuine free play, it becomes obvious. Then adjust your new free play to 18mm. Ian.
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