Mat-O

Registered Member
  • Content Count

    252
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Mat-O

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Yaris T Sport
  1. Thankyou - copied and pasted from Gumtree which has the details elsewhere. Edited now.
  2. With a heavy heart it's time to move on from my Yaris TS. Based in Norwich area. Thunder Grey Yaris T Sport, 4 previous owners, Full Toyota Service History (except one at an independent 7 years ago), the seller has owned the car since 2007, good condition for its age. Slight dent on bonnet from hitting a pigeon. 96,500 miles. A reliable, economical, nippy hatchback. Air con, sports seats, sports suspension, 15" alloy wheels, CD/radio, fog lights, 4 Toyo Proxes tyres with good tread. MOT/service not due until December 2014. Tax until end of July. SOLD Thanks.
  3. Hi all, haven't posted in a while... I'm still running my 2001 T-Sport, and it seems that the exhaust has finally started blowing. (95K miles and 13 years isn't bad.) Looks like I'll need a cat back. I'm not sure how much longer I'll keep it, so I don't want to spend loads, but I'd like it to look and sound standard if possible. From reading around, it looks like a custom stainless exhaust, made to look standard will cost around £300, from someone like Powerflow, Longlife, MIJ, Tony Banks, Pipe Werx etc. I'm going to phone around for some quotes, but can anyone share any experience of this situation? Thanks!
  4. Thanks guys. The battery was ordered at the weekend as I need it regardless! My only worry was that I have no spare key in Hull if the immobilizer went !Removed! up, my spare key in in Norwich. That's a long walk, or worse, go in the girlfriend's Smart Car I'll give it a bash when the battery arrives, thanks for the advice
  5. Hi everyone, been a while since I posted! I have a 2001 TSport and the battery is starting to die (jn the keys, not the car)! I've heard that Toyota charge ~£20 for a battery change, so I popped my fob open and ordered myself a CR1616 (as it stated on the battery cover) off Amazon. To my surprise they were not 20 pounds sterling, they were 90 pence for an Energizer CR1616. That's some markup they've got going. Anywho, if I whip the old battery out and pop in the new one, will any problems with the alarm or immobilizer occur? Is there a reset procedure to follow? Normally I'd look this up in my Yaris book which they give you, but it's in Norwich and I'm in Hull! Couldn't find and answers on search either. Any help would be greatly appreciated, cheers guys!
  6. There's a video review somewhere which they test it against a £150 system, they're around the same results, they were also very similar results on the 1/4 mile as at a timed drag strip. I'll try and dig it out...
  7. For people who don't know, Dynolicious is an app for an iphone which calculates 0-60 times, quarter mile times a even gives an HP reading, you can get a graph of your results and email them to you etc. Reading around the reviews and apparently it's pretty accurate as these things go, and as accurate as a standalone 150 quid unit. Though I may as well give it a go as it's about £7; it gave some results which seemed reasonable to be honest. Yaris T Sport, completely standard except wider tires (Eagle F1). Note that the fuel tank was full to the brim and the conditions were wet. Acceleration 0-10 MPH: 1.28 sec 0-20 MPH: 2.51 sec 0-30 MPH: 3.59 sec 0-40 MPH: 5.37 sec 0-50 MPH: 7.01 sec 0-60 MPH: 9.47 sec 0-70 MPH: 11.99 sec 0-80 MPH: 15.80 sec Elapsed Time 60': 3.12 sec @ 24.6 MPH 330': 7.66 sec @ 51.5 MPH 1/8 mi: 11.38 sec @ 66.6 MPH 1000': 14.58 sec @ 76.7 MPH 1/4 mi: 17.29 sec @ 83.0 MPH Miscellaneous Max Speed: 84.6 MPH Max Acceleration: 0.50 G's Peak Horsepower: 84 HP Not convinced by the HP reading but it may be correct, note that it is at the wheels and not the fly, there's an option to put a drivetrain loss to calculate it at the fly, but i dunno what it is so can't. You have to put weight in, now I put the car weight and my weight, but didn't put any fuel weight in. I may try again when I'm running on vapours and see what happens. I'd be very interested in seeing some more results up here, so get on those iPhones lads, particularly those of you with stock Yaris T Sports, see how we compare! (I think it's available on a Blackberry too).
  8. Well have to say I'd struggle to not do the same in his position, but giving him a severe kicking and holding him for the police to sentence him would have been the thing to do, not smash him skull in with a bat. It's difficult, but to be honest the bugler is lucky to be alive, you can't be judge jury and executioner. I can see where you're coming from certainly, and like I say most of us would do the same thing if our families were threatened. I guess it's because the danger was over and he was running away.
  9. My drive just took 6.5 hours from Hull to Mulbarton (just outside Norwich) after getting stuck in blizzard conditions around 30 miles from Norwich. I got properly stuck after helping someone else out, in the end I had to get some peeps and a policeman to push me then let me follow the gritter til the worst affected area was gone. It wasn't too bad after that, fair bit of snow but driveable, before that it just wasn't, I couldn't even keep it in a straight line before I was stuck Any Yaris Tsport people on here with Eagle F1 tires, don't bother going out if it's a blizzard, that is NOT serious tire, at least not in Winter anyway.
  10. Mat-O

    Diecast Models

    Hello after a quick search I have found no information (other than some crazy Chinese person??). Does anyone know of anywhere at all which does a Yaris T Sport (or Vitz RS) diescast model in any scale at all?? I have browsed the internet, and came up with none which look remotely like my car. Any help would be great, cheers.
  11. Mat-O

    Yaris Spotting

    Hi that was me, i check on here every now and again. check out the other good info on both sites Cool, I may check that out then, can't hurt. Nice Yaris BTW, exhaust wasn't too OTT. What type was it? I'll just add I don't normally push into lanes, I just didn't know which lane I was supposed to be in, not from around those parts! I was going to Hull from Norwich. (Which took AGES, the A15 was shut, so I had to go practically to Doncaster...)
  12. Mat-O

    Yaris Spotting

    A Black P2 TSport let me change lanes while I was going through Lincoln. Had a big exhaust and a Yarisclub decal on the back. I'm not on Yarisclub or I'd post there, but I know a lot do both...
  13. My Mum's 1.0 Yaris can be driven too fast and unsafely, like everyone has said it's the driver who is the problem. NOS is a bit of a ridiculous example I think, we're not in 'The Fast & the Furious', how many cars on the road honestly have and use NOS; I doubt any of those '500' deaths were caused by Nitrous. Especially new drivers, my Yaris was £1700 in insurance in the first year; who could have a 300bhp+ first car with NOS???
  14. Mat-O

    hpim0187ar5.jpg

    Hello, cheers for the comment, I'll give you the details: I have 4 blue cold cathodes from eBuyer, they are about a quid a tube, take a minute to warm up, but there's no point spending 20 hard earned notes on some StreetGlow or Max Power stuff. I have a tube under the dash either side AND a tube under each seat, so the rear glows as well, you can see a little bit on the photo. Under the seats there is like a metal bar which is can clip to fair easily with a cable tie, passenger side with slightly more awkward as there is a tray there. Under the dash I can't remember exactly, but there are some kinds of bars under there, which they can go onto, just have a look under there there's plenty to go by. The wiring; now these come with a 2 white wires which go to a plug and plug into an inverter, all good. The then have a plug and wires which is supposed to go to a computer plug, so it has a load of yellow wires and that attached, they can all come off until you are left with just a red and black wire (I guessed that these were the 12v supply, so cut off the rest, and it works, it should be obvious how to do this once you get to it, I can't remember specifically) Now that I basically had 12v => Inverter => Neons I put the 12v wires into the back of the cigarette lighter. This is a bit fiddly to get too. The dash needs to be taken off practically. The speedo thing comes off, then the rest pulls forwards and the radio can be removed then you should get to the back of the 12v, I can't remember this specifically, I think there are guides how to get the dash off on the forum, or a Haynes manual will explain all. On the back of the 12v there are a couple of plugs which I just unplugged and put my wires into there. This of course means the 12v plug won't work. If you want this to work you could easily cut the wires and solder together the 3 parts, I didn't do this because 1) I'd prefer not to cut it, for ease of replacing when I sell the car, 2) to avoid overloading it, 3) I didn't care about the 12v supply. I'll just note as well that you will need to cut and extend some wires to get to the back, and you don't want to be extending the white wires too much, they don't work after the inverter, I guess the voltage/current isn't high enough to handle the resistance of the long wires. They are okay to extended a little though, but extend the 12v wires to the back of the car, and put your inverter hidden somewhere under the seat too. You'll find all these wires can be tucked under the trim, so you can't see a thing. Take the time to do the job properly too, don't just twist and tape them (like I did the first time) will just cause you problems, get them soldered. I also whacked in a switch (one comes with eh cold cathodes, which you can cut off and solder into the main 12v supply) All the 12v ends will have to meet and go into the supply together, it IS important which way around they go into the supply, so try them before you solder and put the dash back. Hope this helps :)