Uncle Bob

This is the toyota genuine item, I feel mine is a little stronger :) .

The secret to making your own parcel shelf is to have a good template, I spent some time cutting and re-cutting a carboard one , untill I was happy it was a good fit all round. This I then transferred onto the timber, cut round it with a jigsaw and test fitted in position 3 or 4 time, just to check and trim any areas not 100 %. This was the basic timber cut to shape.... Then it was covered in 2oz wadding, followed by Jersey material in fleck grey, luck on the colour, it was the only choice in the shop ! With much stretching and stapling the shelf was covered, then out to the Rav4 to test fit it... I was so pleased with the fit, I've left it in place.... job done. The genuine Toyota shelf as some Velcro strips to hold it in but I found that was not needed, as the seats kept it tight in place. I now have a degree of security with the shelf fitted, strange why Toyota never included one from new .

Hi Red as you've clearly seen, yes I've made up a parcel shelf, I was looking to buy one of EBay but lost out on that, then I looked up on Toyota's technical site how the shelf is fitted, and though , I could make my own :)

Guess what? Took it to the dealership for a diagnostic... Ignition coil 4. Replaced the coil and it runs better than it has since she purchased it. Moral of the story, if your car has a mystery problem like this take it in for a dealership diagnostic. So maybe it could have been cheaper in the long run, and a faster diagnosis, to have used the dealership in the first place.....hey we all live and learn :)

Hello Red, thank you for the positive comments, my last car was a Lexus Is 300 and belong to the LEXUS OWNERS CLUB. Now I'm back in the fold of Toyota's and the RAV4, I'm happy to spend time on the TOYOTA OWNERS CLUB, the new RAV4 DRIVERS CLUB,and the not so new RAV4WORLD :) We are all free to join all the clubs, as there is space for all of us in internet land . I hope to continue to post progress of my Rav4 without restriction over the coming months :).

Sounds like you have covered most items, not sure what I can add....although just a though ,check all the earthing points, ones to the ECU, engine block, chassis, sometimes faults can be as basic as that. Also, of all the jobs you have done, have you ever checked the compression of the pistons ? Maybe if your problems is not electrical, you could have a sticky engine valve or lifter ?

The early Rav4.1 VX had a strut brace highlighted in red in the engine bay, I've always liked that so decided to replicate that with my 4.2, fair bit bit of work getting it out....involves, wipers off, plastic windscreen panel, wiper motor and linkage , water channel etc, anyway after a few coats of toyota super red paint, I'm pleased with the effect, not to everyone's taste...but I'm easy pleased :) Also had a tinker with cam cover polishing, rather hard work by hand , does look a little brighter but now needs to be kept up, or is just dulls over.

Nice write-up .....so what's the sound like now ? :)

Have replaced the rear shock absorbers, KYB was my choice, they have a good reputation and fair on price.

There is a wide spectrum of discoloured headlamps from different manufactures, French and German cars seem to suffer badly, on the other hand the Rav4 2001-2005, seems to suffer yellowing just along the top edge, my car was just the same, 10 years old and starting to go yellow. This was the product that done it for me, it's more of a motor trade item, used in bodyshops, it's very gritty, but the more you rub it in, it gets finer just don't let it dry out on the cloth. . I done my headlamps with it a few months back, and can just see the yellow returning, it is an ongoing problem, short of buying new headlamps as £200 ago ( genuine ) £80 pattern, so at that expense, I'm happy to buff them up every few months :)

Yes I also lost the plot with a 2004 Rav4 CVT :(

Ok a few pointers for replacing the battery standard or otherwise, first....off with the windscreen/ battery plastic small cover, then the push in clips in the larger plastic pop up with the aid of a small screwdriver, they ( should) stay in the plastic panel,as you lift it up. Now as in the photo above, you can see the battery and it's clamp, loosen the two 10mm nuts on the long threaded rods, not all the way off just 5-10mm, look down the rod and see the hook at the bottom, then wiggle it out of its slot. Clamp now removed, two 10 mm bolts to loosen on the battery terminals and remove black first then red ( my preference) and the battery is free, make sure your path is clear and lift battery out and onto the floor. Now If just fitting the standard battery, it's a reversal of the above. If doing the same as me, a little more work is needed, the battery clamp threaded rods are moved to the outer holes, then the the guide brackets also on the battery clamp are moved to the holes the rods were in, this now allows the wider battery to be clamped. The threaded rods now fit to the outer edges of the battery tray ( some patients is required to locate the hooks) ...the battery tray has the outline of the two sizes of battery, so the bigger one fits straight in, now it's a reversal to refit. During the removal and refitting I had a 6 hr gap and in that time the alarm never went off ( I believe it has a battery back up system ? ), once the battery was reconnect, Red first followed by black, you will need to reset clock and your radio stations Some details...... My old battery spec.. 12V, 48AH, 420A....size 235mm L, 125mm W, 200mm H. Fitted battery spec... 12V, 70AH, 570A.....size 258mm L, 173mm W, 225mm H. Note..they also make a battery that's 303mm long, seems to be the space but the wiring cables get pushed tight around the back of the battery . So the battery I've fitted is a YUASA YBX3031 and comes with a 4 year warrenty. Original battery........

Another job that caught me by surprise , was the battery going flat a few weeks after purchase, yes I know it just one of those things, so after checking the alternator was charging, it was time to look for a replacement battery. I've alway buy Bosch when I can, no real reason just like the brand. It was always my plan that if the battery failed I would upgrade to the diesel models battery, mine being a petrol has a battery almost half the size, this was when my loyalty to Bosch faded ! Very expensive from Bosch but found an equally fair quality unit from Yuasa , this I purchased from a local motor factors and to be honest, it looked too big to fit in the space. Old and new batteries... ...and new battery in place, battery clamp and fitting rods need to be changed position to fit..

If it's in first and reverse it could be a problem further down the transmission, ie transfer box or even maybe propshaft centre bearing, although all theses suggestions are just possible problems, best pop into your dealer and let them have a road test,maybe go with them to highlight when the noise happens.

Hi , is that just in first gear or in reverse as well ?, if its both it could be a problem after the gearbox, ie transfer box or front differential. ...and sorry to ask the obvious, have you checked the auto gearbox level ? If gearbox level is fine, a trip to the dealer or an independent garage for an second opinion :)