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The Tvis Kid

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  1. Rough figures from what i've read are: GT4 Gen 5 (ST185?), 185 bhp UK/200bhp JDM 0-60 7 secs top speed 145ish GT4 Gen 6 (St205), 250Bhp, 0-60 6 secs top speed 150ish Mr2 Mk1, 124bhp 0-60 8 secs top speed 122 Mr2 Mk2 N/A (depending on revision), 154bhp/168bhp 0-60 7.2/7.7 and top speed 135ish Mr2 Turbo rev 1/2 220bhp 0-60 6 secs, top speed 150ishmph Mr2 Turbo rev 3+ 0-60 5.5 secs top speed 160ishmph So what your really want is a mk1.5 0-60 4.9, top speed 160ish.
  2. I think they are group 12 or 13 insurance. Only mk1b (86 onwards) have central locking from the key as already said. They make great daily drivers or track cars . IMO i would get a t-bar, ok its not quite as rigid as the sunroof one but gives you so many more smiles per miles in the summer months. The engne is suprisingly easy to work on and pretty bullet proof its just rust you need to look out for. Also don't be putoff by one thats had bodywork done as long as the arches have been repaired properly they will last a longtime. As a first car (i don't know your age) it will be quite expense to insure and RWD WILL catch you out at some point but saying that the cars handling and response is amazing for a 25yr old car and it gives you plenty of feed back through the wheel. I've never lost the back in the dry, my bottle always runs out before the grip and you just need to be sensible in the wet.
  3. Cheers for the responses guys. I'm on the look out for an old corolla still so i can just swap all the parts over as i think this will be the easiest route. I can just get the bits cut off and re welded to my car. I have another question though. My radiator has a bow in it and the oil cooler is a bit dented too. Neither of them have any leaks but i was wondering if other models of the corolla range have the same sized radiator and oil cooler? as i might as well change these too.
  4. Well its about time i get my Gti back up and road worthy. Its been off the road for a few months now and i want to use it over the winter. As some of your saw from my old posts i slide into the back of someone and destroyed my bumper, wingg, head lights and slam panel. There are two ways i can try and fix it, buy second hand bolt on parts like the wings and bonnet and then buy the slam panel new from a bodyshop and have it welded in. Or i can but an old 1.3 rolla and get the parts swapped over (although i don't know how hard this is to do). I won't be doin any of the work myself so need the most cost effective solution. Also i need to know if all the parts are interchangable across the corolla range. For example at the mo there is a rolla been broken but its a 1.3. Its the right colour and it has all the parts i need. But can i use the lights, wings, bonnet off a 1.3 a stick it on my gti?
  5. Thought this would be easy but i can't seem to get at the bulb. I thought it would just be behind the plastic cover in the boot but no.... just a piece of metal. I don't want to start prying bits off the car as there is probably some easy way to gain access. Now i wish i'd paid the £2.99 at halfords to get it fitted to. How embrassing!
  6. Its an AE92. Does anyone know if you can just unbolt all the bits of metal off the car and replace or will i need to get it re-straightened on a jig? As for selling it...well i'm not too sure on a price. The engine has 121K but a perfect service history so that should be worth £150 (esp as its a small port)? Then the rest of the car if broke up should be at least another £250, possibly more? So £300 - £400 for the whole car. Its MOT'd till May next year and has tax till november. I'm not sure on the legalities of driving withought a bumper etc but it can still be drives.
  7. So a month or so ago i crashed my corrolla into the back of a ford focus! The damage was very superfical to the focus (a cracked bumper) but the rolla really took a beating. It still runs but i will definatly need a new front wing, two headlights, a bumper and a bonnet not to mention all the other bits of metal supports that are at the front of the engine. Now i'm not exactly sure what parts that are damaged are needed for the structurual integrity of the car. I have taken some pics after i removed the bumper and lights. Does it look like this is worth the money or not to get it fixed? The downside is i (well it was my girlfriends) was only on 3rd party insurance so have lost everything at the moment. Is it worth trying to fix or should i just sell it as spares or repairs. We bought the car about 3 months ago and it is in really good condition with hardly any rust and the engines is the sweetest 4age i've ever driven. There must be some people who can use the engine in a kit car. However i can't really just take the engine out so wanted to sell the car alogether. What do you think i could get for it?
  8. My gen 5 celicas oil warning light keeps coming on and off. Its the orange one by the rev counter, it has a wavey line underneath it. I assumed this was an oil level warning light but when i checked the dip stick there was plenty in there. This leads me to think that either the dip stick is crap for reading (although can't really see why), the sensor has gone faulty or the light means something else. There is also another red oil can light that comes on when you start the car, i think this one is for oil pressure? but it goes off after asecond or so. The oil was last changed around 5K ago so i was gonna change it and see if that made a difference but can't really see why it would. If it is the sensor, how hard is it to replace?
  9. The Tvis Kid


    I have to side with the mk1 as well. It gives you plenty of smiles per miles, is much cheaper to insure (group 12), is cheaper to run and fix. Only downside is the bodywork but there are plenty of good examples left out there. It also looks better IMO. Power wise up to 60-80 mph its not that far off a mk2 and its easier to handle round the corners. The engine is also feels revier with a larger power band than the mk2. Talking about perfomance you have to remember the mk2 is a 2.0ltr enegine so you should really compare it with other larger engine cars where as the mk1 is only a 1.6. Back in the 80's the 4age engine was (and still is) one of the most powerful N/A engines available. It was only the likes of Honda who were producing equally good engines (possibly better when they started using Vtec). Best otion is to get a drive in both, even as a passenger and see what you prefer.
  10. If the car hasn't been moved in the past 8 months then the brakes could be seized (especially if it was stored with the hand brake on). The only other things i would check for is damage to any pipework, basically check for leaks etc. 8 months isn't too long so a good service should sort it out.
  11. The mr2 will be about the same as i think they are about the same weight. I have heard of some early mk2's with a decat and filter making 60 in under 7secs with the perfect launch and running quicker quater miles than clio 182's and CTRs although i have never seen this myself. The reason for the difference in times is due to the extra bits and bobs the later mr2 got (rev 3 onwards), side impact bars, airbags etc all make a difference. Also if you buy a T-bar it will be slightly slower due to the extra supports they put in the doors etc. i would go for a rev 2 as it has better suspension and brakes than the early ones, also comes with 15" wheels as standard. One thing is for sure the mr2 will always feel faster due to the engine screaming behind your head and the fact your lower to the ground.
  12. They weigh around 1000kg, later models have the non-tvis small port engine(aka hi torque) with 129bhp and do sixty in around 8 secs, 125mph top speed (thast about 135mph on the speedo). I would imagaine it is very closely match to th 1.6i crx. My one complaint is the power steering is too light and the feel is not as good as it should be, however i'm sure uprated shocks would help this. Same tuning as crx, exhaust and filter will give you 5-10 bhp more then cams etc but this is pricey. As for engine swaps you can get a 4agze, a supercharged version of the engine. Around 150bhp as standard but a bucket load more torque. This can easily be uprated to around 180bhp with a shorter pully. For somthing a bit more mad try a 3sgte conversion from an mr2 urbo. 220-240bhp as standard will make an awesome street sleeper (there is a guy on here with one).
  13. The mr2 has a quicker 0-60 due to the mid engine RWD layout. You can launch them at much higher revs without sufferng from piles of wheel spin. The earlier mk2 mr2 (rev 1 and 2) have an even quicker 0-60 of 7.2secs although they are down 20 odd bhp on the later models. As stated above the cars are very different to drive, the celica is more of a tourer and is soft, comfatable and eats up the miles where as the mr2 is a great drivers car that keeps you invloved. No doubt it will but a bigger smile on your face. However, my own personal choice is the mk1 mr2. Its a bit slower to 60 (circa 8secs) but what it lacks in speed it more than makes up for in handling and character. It is looks better (IMO) and is cheaper to run.
  14. Got distracted by something on the side of the road and didn't see the car in front brake till it was too late. I slide into the back of a focus and wrecked the Gti. Thankfullly i was only going slow and no one as hurt (bar a stiff neck for a couple of days) but the rolla looks like she has taken a real beating. It'll need a new wing, bonnet, bumper and light fitting as well as the front bit of the engine bay. Thankfully they look like they all just bolt on so i will hopefully find someone who is breaking a car and swap the parts over. i don't think there is any structual damage. The only damage to the other car was a few scratches and a crack in the bumper. If anyone is breaking a grey gti let me know, i will rip all the parts off mine when i get a free weekend and hopfully fix this car up.
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