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Everything posted by flash22

  1. Its part of the bearing only other thing that springs to mind is the caliper is hanging up and slowing 1 wheel quicker that the rest
  2. ah, the gaiter has become unclipped pop the silver trim off (start at the pointy end), clip the silver trim on to the gaiter, reinstall random pic off google (LHD)
  3. A quick look, the wipers use the same 2 plugs - headlights/indicator are completely different the Mk2 it's all low current BCM controlled, the Mk1 is old style mechanical with high current contacts imho leave the stalks well alone
  4. Audio controls will work, there is no CC on the 1.0 1KRFE just a speed limiter on the Mk2, the spline on the column should be the same but the clockspring (spiral cable) is different you are talking multiple systems across many diagrams, without looking at the diagrams for both models side by side I could not tell you the connector pinouts, 06 is an early aygo, and it depends on what year the part's car is
  5. 2/3 bulbs not sure if they are soldered or socketed Take it apart, take photos as you go I have tried looking for the lamp part number, but can't find much, more than likely 0.9w 12v panel bulbs at a guess Edit. Looking at the diagram, they are run at 5-6.5v https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/h4vh88u8dlh88hvd162w8/toyota_cn-ts0371a.pdf?rlkey=r66kddxz11kca09yb6fzipnem&dl=0 Before you do that check for 12V on pin 17 (18 pin connector) with the lights on
  6. Misshaped as in square off or scrubbed, yes that can cause an ABS issue
  7. As previously posted 58393-0D010 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385580449601 looks like a clip or 2
  8. CT23TY75 is clearly not correct even tho it's listed as for the E180 and strangely listed for E210, but if you look at the Metra Catalogue it lists it for the 15 up Sienna and 17-19 corolla (US spec) 99-8250 and 95-8262HG, oddly incartec list the same part under their own number for the auris I have come across this a few times, the later Avensis can be a pain too
  9. Do the above test and see if it brings back anything do you have matching tires on the front if so how old are they (it's marked on the side wall) are your tire pressures correct, has the car ever had the alignment checked
  10. Sorry for the delay 85530-0D020 85535-52040 rubber cover fairly standard part used for lots of years, around 50 euros new (580-700kr)
  11. That is not clearly not right !!! Does the pioneer outer bezel make it fit any better ? CT23TY106
  12. Metra is a US company so not sure what that will be listed for, so they must use it as equivalent to the connects2 item I will have to do a bit of digging try rotating it 180º so the thin edge is at the bottom
  13. Double din is 178mm, will the radio go through the fascia ? Is it a proper connects2 item (should have come in a connects2 sealed bag)
  14. There's a few on eBay and a complete door 2 door, 4 door or wagon ?
  15. Looks like you have it too far to the left Edit. Not sure on this model, but some have a removable bezel
  16. the award goes to the 20 year old thread dug up a few weeks ago As for Maz's question go and buy the car you want, fair less headaches, there are some major differences between the 1.0 and 1.3 brakes, suspension and exhaust are just the tip of the iceberg if you really want to do an engine swap, go for the 1.5 or 1.8, the hardest job is the electrical and immobilizer, It's nowhere near plug and play whatever you think it will cost, double or triple it
  17. you can unplug the pressure switch and link it out, only do this for a short period of time tho here are the fuses, 2 light green and 1 pink (square Jcase iirc)
  18. If you google Scion IQ there is a far bigger modding scene state side with a lot more aftermarket support Coilover wise BC racing https://eu.bc-racing.co.uk/applications/toyota/toyota-iq/toyota-iq-kgj10ngj10-08-15.html I will drop you a PM shortly with technical stuff Fensport - https://www.fensport.co.uk/collections/toyota-iq-1-33-ngj10-07-09 DC performance - https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/
  19. The switch will not do a thing unless the HTR relay is energized, the A/C amp is powered, and the A/C pressure switch is closed
  20. Correct, but you can physically move the switches and the caps still fit I have come across many an oddity another one was an issue with gear selection - turned out the OP had previous ankle surgery and wasn't pressing the clutch down all the way
  21. HTR relay feeds the A/C clutch https://fuse-box.info/toyota/toyota-aygo-ab10-2005-2014-fuses-and-relay Relay box No5. what's up under the dash (ignore the red arrow) the A/C and HTR fuses are located on the rear of the dash, not the sides Note. The blue and white relays (this is Relay box No.5) above the red circle (immobilizer)
  22. Stranger things have happened, like the rear defrost and A/C switches being swapped (press the defrost button to turn the A/C on) the A/C is controlled by the A/C amplifier, if wiring has been pulled it's likely a broken wire/connector that feeds the A/C clutch The switch just tells the A/C amp to turn the system on I have diagrams if required, check the 3 fuses 40a HTR, 10a Back-up and the 7.5a A/C fuse, Then the HTR relay and the wiring and connector by the compressor
  23. 30-70% is prime recharge percentage either side, and you end up with slower charging, Maybe if/when tesla open their chargers up it will give a few more options For going the distance, Hybrid is the best bet at this time, in the future maybe leaning more towards the EV side as tech progresses, battery tech is still not matured, and the infrastructure is not in place
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