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88 & 92 Camry

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  1. Good guess, ariman! I had identical symptoms on my '88 Camry -- found 11 broken or nearly broken wires in the bundle of about 20 between the door and body. The location of the problem was easy to determine ... sometimes things worked, sometimes not, and often with door partially open. Fixing it was no fun. Remove door panel, completely disconnect/unclamp/unsnap wire harness, fight with the rubber boot, pulling boot/wires/connectors out of body hole and boot/wires out of door hole. Pull wires out of boot (I had to slit body end of boot to do this, so connectors could go inside). Splice about 2" of new wire into all bad ones (must use crimp-type connectors). Pull HARD on spliced wires, make sure they don't come apart. Push boot back over wires. Pull on wires again, individually. Poke connectors/wires/boot thru body hole -- use pliers under dash to pull boot into place. Plug in connectors. Wrestle with boot, get it back into door hole -- screwdriver on the outside, fingers on the inside required. Reconnect wire harness inside door, but don't clamp/snap it into place just yet. Temporarily connect door-panel control box, make sure everything works -- with door open, closed and in-between. Open/close door many times, then test again. Fasten all clamps/snaps on door wire harness. Replace door panel, test again. Hold slit in rubber boot together with electrical tape, seal it with "Liquid Tape", let dry overnight. However ... a solid, non-intermittent failure could be caused by a bad circuit breaker or relay on the fuse block behind driver's kick panel. Or a bad connector. Or maybe a bad driver's door-panel control box. If you have schematics and a multimeter, and know how to troubleshoot with them, do that first. Good luck, mr2boi !!
  2. My 1992 Camry would randomly die, most often when accelerating from a stop. After replacing everything imaginable, the problem was found. Bad engine temperature sensor. At a certain temperature, it put out bogus data to the computer, which adjusted everything wrong and stalled the engine. A few minutes later, as the engine temp changed, the sensor worked and the car would start. Good luck!
  3. It was a royal pain, but I did successfully re-spool the cable on my '92 Camry (regulator is identical to the one on your '94). Yes, the cables will be under tension when properly assembled. I used two Vise-Grips to compress the tensioning springs where the cables feed into the motor assembly, wound the cables from the center of the spool outwards (in different directions), then fought the spool back into place. Took me several tries, and is not something I want to do again. My success was short-lived, however -- the cable snapped a couple of weeks later. No way was I going to try to find replacement cable and go thru respooling again! So I went web shopping for an assembly. How does $97.95 sound for a new unit? A1 Electric has them for $89.95 + $8.00 shipping. I replaced the driver's side regulator in early May; perfect fit and it's still working perfectly. So ..... when the passenger side unit went bad :( two weeks ago, I ordered that one from A1. Installed it yesterday - same good results. :D Here's the link: A1 Electric - Toyota Window Lift Motors & Regulators If the link doesn't work, just go to www.a1electric.com, click ONLINE CATALOG. Hope this helps!
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