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Everything posted by camrys84GL86GLi

  1. Hi Dave, I have 1984 1.8GL and 1986 2.0GLi both manual gearbox The best I've managed on a long run with the 1.8 is about 38mpg,with about 30mpg around town.I would say his figures are pretty typical and would be very acceptable particularly on an Automatic. Obviously the higher you cruise above 55mph the less you will get in my experience.Certainly keep below 70mph otherwise it wil drink fuel. Changing gear at 2000rpm around town has given me the best consumption as I'm not in too much of a hurry usually. I change into 5th between 35-40mph on the flat as long as this doesn't cause the engine to labour or pink.Although with your Auto you won't have the luxury ofthe last two points. Always good to make sure the timing is set accurately and that the tyre pressures are correct.I use standard unleaded which has proved perfectly satisfactory. Hope this helps Graham(Bournemouth)
  2. Hi there, Find it hard to believe that a top of the range Camry gearbox would fail after such low mileage whether used for short journeys or not.Although maybe not relevant I know of at least two earlier Camry's mine and a friends albeit manual that have covered 100k + used for short journeys with no problems and on the original clutches. More likely to be the clutch needing replacing(as the autos get more use) or the gearshift linkages need adjusting.(details in the Haynes workshop manual ) Was the clutch slipping prior to failure, i.e. was car losing power going up hills? Any sign of hydraulic fluid leaks? Seems a shame to scrap if rest of car is good.Why not try getting a Toyota garage to look at it. A second hand box might not be so easy to come by and could be expensive to have fitted to make it economical.Probably not worth spending more than about £500. Let me know how you get on? Good luck Graham from Bournemouth>
  3. Hi, Darren. I don't know if this is your problem but I had an intermittant starting problem. It was diagnosed by the AA as a problem in the ignition coil area. It turned out to be a faulty igniter(ignition module)My friend had the same problem.We both own early Toyota Camry's,1984 & 1983. Information about checking the igniter can be found in the Haynes workshop manuals. Even the garage didn't diagnose the problem till it finally gave up the ghost.They are not cheap about £100 - £130 but relatively easy to fit(see Haynes manual)The igniter is a small electrical component in the electronic ignition and contains a power transistor which is probably the item that fails but can be intermittant.Hope this helps? Good luck Graham(Bournemouth)
  4. Hi there, I have a Camry 2.0 GLI sv11 D reg with 55,000 on the clock had it about 6 months.Has most of the Mot's from new. Owned for many years from new by a doctor in Wales for a similar time.It is a rather attractive and unusual two tone blue colour.It is in excellent condition inside and out,must have been garaged.What colour is yours and any chance of sending a picture to grahamcutler@waitrose.com.Do you still have it and are you thinking of selling it in the near future? Many thanks Graham.
  5. Hi there, I have had a cambelt go on a 1984 Camry didn't do any damage.Either the design allows eneough clearance or it broke when none of pistons was at top of stroke.It might be worth changing the idler pulleys at the same time depending on there condition,can get a bit noisy after about 70k.Certainly change the power steering belt and alternator belt if you haven't done so already as the rubber could now be getting brittle.Makes sense to change the water pump and the tensioner return springs while is is stripped down. Good luck Graham(Bournemouth UK)
  6. Hi again, You didn't say whether you had fixed the hole in the reservoir tank and whether the electric cooling fan was working OK when warmed up? When you fill the cooling system you need to have the heater controls in the fully hot position.The lack of anti freeze will not cause it to overheat only encourage sludge to form which might block the radiator and increase the risk of freezing and subsequent blowing of the core plugs.By the way is there any sign of leaking from the core plugs or the cylinder head?Again I suggest you check the radiator cap as even new ones can prove faulty.Check that there is slight movement when pressed from cold.Put in saucepan and bring water to boil and see if there is any movement.Also are there any blockages in the heating system or pipes.The whole system may need a good flush.Once you have sorted out the problem I suggest you fill with Toyota Forlife coolant for maximum engine protection. Good luck Graham.
  7. Hi, Sounds like the previous owner may have changed components which were thought mistakedly to be the cause of the problem. Myself and a friend both have Camry's, mine a 1984 his a 1983 model. Our radiators gave out at about 80,000 miles. We both had the Toyota Forlife special coolant in our cooling systems. This is used from new as a total protection fluid and must not be diluted.The normal or red type has a recommended life of if I remember rightly about 3 years. There are now other types of Forlife which will last longer and may have been supplied in the later Camry's.The trouble is quite often either due to the cost or neglect it doesn't get changed as per the recommended intervals. and turns brown. It is however an excellent product and would recommend it once you have sorted out your overheating problem.Indeed it seems likely that you have a serious leak somewhere to overheat on such short journeys. The obvious thing would be check that the hoses and the radiator drain plug are not leaking. Also get the car up to working temperature and make sure the electric fan is cutting in.Do this by allowing the car to idle for a while and the same time checking for leaks. However if all seems well the chances are like you say the loss of coolant is most likely from the reservoir.Maybe double check that the radiator pressure cap has some movement and is not faulty or seized shut.Also check that head gasket has not blown, tell tale signs of staining from anti freeze or oil on block or water droplets in the engine oil. Good luck Graham.
  8. Hi there, Sounds like the tracking might need adjusting. Might need full four wheel alignment. Have you hit any kerbs lately or has the car been in an accident? Graham(Bournemouth UK)
  9. thanks for the advice Graham, you are right in thinking that the head unit is a Toyota original, and the stack system has been added. I will get an audio engineer to disconnect it, it's worth a try. I will also put in a call to someone on the legal side, as they are banking on me not doing this regards, Julie Hi again Julie, Your response has got me thinking.Normally as far as I understand these matters the arrangement for compatibility reasons is for the head unit and the disc changer to be of the same make . The lead between the two will only fit that partcular brand be it Sony,JVC,Kenwood or whatever.Of course the Toyota head unit may simply be a rebadged popular make. Normally one has a cassette/receiver(i.e. radio) head unit that has an option for an add on disc changer via a connection socket at the back with the appropriate lead.The other option would be a receiver with its own dedicated disc changer supplied as a package factory fitted or two units of another make fitted later via a universal so called ISO lead for a particular make of car.However to have a 6 disc changer connected to a single disc receiver seems a rather odd arrangement.Be interested to hear how you get on with the disconnection tactic and the legal root.Good Luck Graham(Bournemouth)
  10. Hi, I'm only guessing but the fact it's had a 2nd hand engine might point me into thinking there could be some worn components in the flywheel or clutch area.Had a problem once where the bolts that go through the flywheel could not be tightened properly because the holes they went through had worn slightly oval maybe due to not being tightened properly in the past.Equallly could be a clutch problem.Was the clutch renewed before fitting the engine?Good luck Graham from Bournemouth.
  11. Hi, I'm only guessing but the fact it's had a 2nd hand engine might point me into thinking there could be some worn components in the flywheel or clutch area.Had a problem once where the bolts that go through the flywheel could not be tightened properly because the holes they went through had worn slightly oval maybe due to not being tightened properly in the past.Equallly could be a clutch problem.Was the clutch renewed before fitting the engine?Good luck Graham from Bournemouth.
  12. Hi, Suggest you go down the local car breakers and look in the glove box.Although some yards remove these in case they contain any personal information on the owners.Otherwise try ebay.Good luck Graham from Bournemouth.
  13. Hi Julie, It does seem a bit harsh that the garage is not being very helpful with your problem.Are they a member of any recognized motor traders organisation?If not are you a member of the RAC or AA as they could fill you in on your rights.Failing that why not try the local citizens advice or trading standards.I would imagine even though it may not be covered under warranty you are at least entitled to receive goods of merchantable quality and 2 weeks is an awfully short time for an item like this to go wrong.However if none of these prove fruitful what I would suggest is to get a qualified auto electrician to have a look.It may be the memory has locked up or something and the power needs to be dissconnected to reset it.You will need to get the security code to do this(usually 4 digit)If you have the manual you can do this yourself simply dissconnect the battery and follow the instructions.If you dont have the code go to your local Toyota dealer with your log book and they should have it on there records.Dont quite undersand why the head unit is a single unit is it the original factory fitted one and is the CD changer a non Toyota one added later?Maybe there is some sort of incompatibility between the two that has blown something.Be interested to know how you get on.Good luck Graham from Bournemouth.
  14. Hi again I,m not very familiar with the exhaust emissions control system.However according to the Haynes manual which I would highly recommend getting a copy it states that if the EGR valve is 'sticking or clogged with heavy carbon deposits, replace it' Not sure its a good idea using brake fluid as it could get into the combustion chamber,not good news.Why not use petrol as a cleaning agent instead,which will evaporate. Have you read my comments on my experience with an ignition module(igniter) problem? Graham from Bournemouth UK
  15. Hi there. Please ignore my request about your location as I forgot to look at your profile before typing my reply.I see your from Pennsylvania USA, I'm from sunny Bournemouth in the UK myself.GOOD LUCK Graham.C.
  16. Hi there, These sort of faults are sometimes very difficult to trace.All I can do is give you and a friend of mine our experiences of a similar nature.We both have Camry 1.8GL's his a 1983 and mine a 1984,both with standard petrol engines without fuel injection. After about 55,000 miles mine started playing up with stalling then refusing to start unless left for a while then starting normally.I took it into the garage who kept it for a couple of days but could not replicate the fault.It eventually gave upon me whilst on an outing and I couldn't get it started again.The RAC,which is one of our major breakdown services diagnosed some sort of electrical problem probably in the distributor.It was relayed to the nearest Toyota garage.It was the ignition moduler(igniter)that had gone.This is a tiny electronic component in the distributor that affects the ht spark quality I beleive.Ironically my friend had exactly the same problem with his.It could be that the power transistor had failed inside the igniter but also from other postings it has been found to be a problem with the ignition coil.details on how to test both of these can be found in the Haynes manual for 1983 to 1991 gasolene engine models ISBN 1 56392 030 1.More detailed fault diagnosis can be found in Toyotas own Engine Repair Manual which covers the 1S,1S-E,2S,2S-C,2S-E,3S-FE,and 3S-GE engines,book Publication no RM051E Aug 1986 which may be a little bit early for your model unless it has one of the engines listed.The manuals are extremely extensive and are used by the garages themselves for fault diagnosis and are available to buy by the general public,and don't let anyone tell you otherwise. I think I paid about £30 sterling for mine back in 1993 mind you.Hope you find my comments useful.I would be very interested to see how you get on.Where are you from by the way,I don't mean in detail of course?All the best Graham.C.
  17. Hi, Your diagnosis seems spot on as both myself and a friend who both have Camry 1.8GL his a 1983 and mine a 1984 model.The intermittant fault was very difficult to diagnose.Car would suddenly cut out and refuse to start until left for a while.Was finally diagnosed when it finally gave up the ghost.Both cars had about 50k on the clock and showed the same symptoms maybe a common fault with ignitors from this era of Toyotas.This being the only fault that has let either of us down such as to render our cars immobile on the road in 100k + miles!Have managed to get a couple of spare ignitors cheap on ebay so will keep in our glove boxes just in case.
  18. Hi, Did you manage to get a valuation on your mum's corolla and has she sold it? I'm a new member like yourself just joined. I have two Toyota's both Camry's,my original one is a 1984 1.8GL which I have had since 1992.The only previous owner had done very low mileage like your mum's 22K in eight years.It was starting to get a bit tatty so I bought a slightly newer model a 1986 2.0GLI with 55k on the clock and in beautiful condition for it's age.The 1984 model still runs well with 110k now on the clock and would like it to go to a good home someone who can give it some tender TLC, anyone out there?I'm in the Bournemouth area.Many thanks Graham.
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