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Everything posted by halek

  1. lol, notice how he's misspelt 'cilica' in his profile....knob
  2. It's a pretty straight forward coversion, the man to talk to is Lee of Se7en motorsports who's done loads of these. Off the top of my head you'll need a 2ZZ-GE engine (obviously), gearbox - the 140 gearbox will fit but the gear ratios are different, exhaust, one engine mount,engine wiring loom, ECU + a matching key (for the imobiliser) & a 190 intrument cluster. Best is to buy a written off 190/T-sport & break it yourself so you have all the parts you neeed to hand, then you can recoup a bit of cash selling the bits you don't use + your old 140 engine & box.
  3. It quite a common fault to have water leakage from around the rear lights, it appears that some cars were assembled with the gaskets not placed correctly + a couple with no seal at all. Look in the boot access panels used for replacing rear bulbs & you'll see three 10mm nuts holding each tail light cluster on. Take off each light & check the foam gasket is present & not creased up or anything, a 15min job at most
  4. No overdrive I just have the manual 6 speed box on mine. I'm not totally sure if they actually officially sold an automatic trans T-sport with the 'tiptronic' function in the UK, it may well just be a JDM thing.
  5. The red button by your gearshift is a 'shift lock override'. When your in 'park' with the car turned off ordinarily you can't move the autobox out of park without starting the engine. Press the red button & it'll let you put it into neutral with the engine off - for if you need a tow for instance. I have a manual 190 & they are a bit thirsty if you rag them, I get 36 at best on a steady run but it can drop down to 22 when I give it some. Yours being an auto will probably be a bit worse I'd imagine.
  6. Yes you have to pull all the boot plastics out to reach the topmounts. When I did mine I found it easier to drop the rear suspension arms (3 bolts fixing each arm to the chassis) to get the struts out. Have a look at this pdf. LoweringspringsTTEAIM0003260PZ4391072100.pdf
  7. It ain't that simple unfortunately ;) Se7en put a 2zz-ge in his mates MRS giddlepin ... it's a full engine transplant with the 2zz ecu & a custom engine mount but they bolt right in, I'd love to drive one :)
  8. You need to change the SMT leds mounted behind the fuel/mileage display to change the LCD colour to which ever colour you fancy. I've done mine blue which seems to be a common choice but I've seen lots of different colours used before, white looks good imo. You do need basic soldering skills tbh but it's well within most peoples capabilities. Have a look HERE for a diy guide, it also shows which leds need to be swapped for the speedo & tach, these are orange as stock but need to be changed to white if you fit a custom gauge face (there's a group buy running for these on c-cuk incidently). I changed the speedo/tach ones to blue which look white at night through the oem orange gaugeface & a couple of red ones to light up the redline. The stock SMT (surface mount) leds are 3528's so just buy whatever colour you want from a led supplier or ebay, cheap as chips ;) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/50PCS-3528-PLCC-2-SM...#ht_2256wt_1046
  9. What induction kit do you have? From memory when I fitted my blitz sus you unplug the electrical connector at the bottom of the airbox as that's not needed anymore + lose all the pipes that go to the volume control valve (the flappy thing in the airbox). Make sure you block the hole up in the intake manifold, there should be a bung in the kit for this + any other left over pipes should be blocked off. I've probably missed a few bits as my car is a preface JDM without all the air injection <the spuds of lurrrrvve>s that later cars came with - have a look HERE as they deal with all the extra pipes that my car didn't have.
  10. Also make sure there's nothing metallic (coins etc) in the centre consol cup holders as that'll trip the alarm every time.
  11. You need to take the front bumper/nosecone off to get at them I'm affraid - it is possible to do it from under the car by removing the undertray but unless you have access to a ramp it's easier to whip the bumper off. http://plaza.umin.ac.jp/~satoshi/mod0A2en.html
  12. Best bet is to pull the error codes & start from there, either buy a OBD2 code reader (cheap ones £30 on ebay) or take it to a garage & have the fault codes read. What sort of/how heavy an accident has the car been in? It's possible something in the engine/drivetrain has been damaged & the ECU has gone into 'survival' mode & limited your revs to 3k. It maybe something as little as a knackered sensor or broken wire but you wont know until you read the fault codes.
  13. You can disable it if it really bugs you by snipping a wire at the back of the instrument cluster. http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showpost.p...amp;postcount=1
  14. Nothing to worry about mate they all do that although I only really noticed it on mine after fitting an induction kit.
  15. It's way easier & neater to just get an ISO connector as scarlett says, pick up a Toyota specific one for a few quid from ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-Stereo-ISO-Wi...id=p3286.c0.m14 but if you really want to rewire it yourself:
  16. I got mine directly from BLUFLAME but you'll find it's cheaper to buy from one of their stockists. Keep an eye on ebay as well as they do crop up occasionally.
  17. I think I paid around 250ish but that was a couple of years ago now. Be warned though, if you want a loud pipe these aren't for you. It sounds much nicer than stock but if you want something a bit more raucous look at apexi or blitz.
  18. FENSPORT will be able to get you a TRD pipe but they're not cheap. I have a blueflame which is based on the TRD design but half the price, not much louder than the stock exhaust either + loads lighter. I had them supply a different tailpipe trim from their TVR Cebera exhaust as I wasn't too keen on the one that came with it originally.
  19. Yeah there'll be a short somewhere, pull the gearstick surround off - the part that the !Removed! lighter is mounted into, just pull up either side of the gearstick n it'll pop off & have a look for anything obvious, loose connection, cut wire etc. It's also possible the !Removed! lighter socket itself could be the problem, if you have a meter check that out.
  20. Most likely to be the fuse mate. There are two fuse blocks in your car one under the bonnet & one inside the car, you want the one inside the car. There is a panel on the side of the centre consol by the drivers left knee, pull this off to access the fuses. Cig lighter fuse is no.1 - (bottom row nearest the gearstick). Print off the attached file for future ref. ARTICLE_FUSEBLOCK_DIAGRAM.pdf
  21. The butterfly or volume control valve is fitted in the airbox between your air filter & the airbox's air inlet, it's just slotted in & pulls out easily but make sure you plug up the rubber pipe that operates it or your car will run like crap. Image courtesy of hawker.
  22. lift bolts (or flange bolts as Toyota call them) are 90105-06293 The rocker cover gasket can be reused but they can get a bit hard with age & not seal up properly so probably best to fit a new one. part no. is 15338-22010
  23. 4300k are the most efficient for light output, that's why cars that come with HIDs from the factory all have this temp bulbs fitted. Basically the higher temp (bluer) bulb you go for, the less light they put out. I have 4300k & swear but them - have a look at THIS post for some more info.
  24. Sadly no one makes a turbo kit for a RHD gen7. There are a few LHD kits out there but the exhaust/turbo manifold fouls the steering colomn on RHD cars. Mabbs is correct, the only way to get any decent power out of the 1zz-ge (140) without spending a stupid amount of money is to supercharge it. They can't be chipped as the stock ECU will 'unlearn' any changes the chip makes + an induction kit/exhaust will only give you negligable gains if any. You could consider an engine swap to a 2zz (190 / t-sport), would probably be the most cost effective way to more power.
  25. Glad you got it fixed without having to take it into the garage storm. LEDs draw far less current than conventional bulbs, so much so that the ecu will think that it has blown & flag an error. I had a similar problem when I fitted LED brakelight bulbs in my car but with mine the ABS light just stayed on all the time.
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