FoxX

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Everything posted by FoxX

  1. Its the same engine, remember that at one point TTE actually sold the TTE supercharger kits for the 2ZZ-GE engines. The fuel air mix will be controlled by the ECU changes in that model. From what i can see from old images the kit seems to include the charger, intercooler and associated pipes and engine covers. Wouldnt suprise me though if the throttle body and injectors are slightly different, but you could salvage these from your old engine as i'm sure they are in perfect working order. You could always drop fensport or a toyota specialist a cheecky email to check. Probably worth finding out whats wrong with it first mind, these engines aren't too cheap.
  2. Dont buy Good Year efficient grip though, they may be grippy and cheap but they have side walls of jelly which makes taking corners at any speed interesting. Made that mistake. For a pre-facelift you want something with a fairly stiff sidewall, will make the ride a little harsher but will reduce the roll if you havent already lowered the suspension or added extra roll bars. I've had Toyo T1rs and they were excellent in grip and handling and cheap too, but they dont last more than 6000 miles on the front before the corners rub off. Suprinsgly found that Avon ZV5's seem to be a good all rounder and mid range in terms of price, stiffness and grip/handling. Running 205,55 R16 at the moment, little bit cheaper but they do bulge a little, but protects the alloy from curbing at least.
  3. Yea drivers side would be the aux belt, good call old codger. Check this before taking your wheels off. If you can't hear it squeeling on idle, give it a few revs with the clutch in to see if it is that.
  4. Both front wheels or just the one side? Check your brakes first, look at the sticky topics at the top for a few guides on how to replace. Sounds like its either your brakes pads have worn down to the wear indicator causing constant screeching or your dust protector plate is rubbing against your disc (you can bend this back), or there is a problem with one of your spring clips touching the disc on rotation. I doubt sticky caliper or stuck slider pins would cause a constant screech but at least lube the slider pins. You need a 12mm socket to get the calliper off, just rest it carefully on something when you take it off and don't let it dangle on the brake line. If its not brakes, then possibly a wheel bearing or something but I've not known those to screech when they have gone. When its jacked up, spin the front wheel out of gear before you take it off to see if you can hear anything.
  5. So long as the thickness is ok and is not below the minimum which is I believe 8mm and the discs aren't heavily scored or show any signs of cracking or strange vibration under braking when at speed then they should be fine. Don't look noticeably bad from the front, taking them off is the best way to check but you can probably get away with running your fingers down the back while rotating to check for anything deep grooves that might cause failure.
  6. FoxX

    Battery

    You will just loose your preset radio settings and you windows will probably switch from automatic up/down to manual. I think to set the windows back you just hold the window button down when starting the engine and it sets it back to automatic. Did mine a few weeks ago as I was getting 5amps on start and then it died.
  7. Standard clutch kits, bought separately range from £100 - £200, like of blueprint, LUK, Exedy. Chances are if you have a fitting from a non Toyota fitter they will put one of these in rather than Toyota's preferred clutch. Fitting including parts is probably going to be in the region of £350 (minimum) and upward depending where you go, but worth ringing around. Toyota prices seem to vary from area to area. It might be just an adjustment you need if its not slipping.. i.e. its not fully releasing. Mine tends to smell especially when held under load on an incline with too many revs, doesn't slip though and its jittery as hell when changing at low speeds so have to be especially careful.
  8. Gearbox Oil is 75w90 , most of us have changed it on here at some point. There is a sticky on changing it if you look at the top. Gearbox is a noisy one anyway, especially decelerating so anything you can do to shut it up is a plus so buy the good stuff. Timing Chain needs to be checked at 100k for wear and tension. Brake pads are the same size as the 2.0D Corolla, but as mentioned above any decent site has a registration check you can do to bring up the correct parts. I've had all sorts on mine, EBC, Mintex etc, but to be honest a decent standard set of cheap pads on the rear is fine as it doesn't do that much braking. Worth doing it yourself as it only takes 30 mins per wheel (inc pushing the caliper piston back in), but its worth spending an hour and regreasing the sliders with red rubber grease as they tend to seize leading to annoying rubbing noises over time. Check the colour of the coolant, if its pink it should be long life and last 100k and might not need changing. If its green and its not in the log book then perhaps consider changing it, but don't mix them. Any coolant will do. Probably also worth changing the spark plugs for a fresh set of iridium's if they are the originals, they are also supposed to last 100k but I think 60k is probably a better bet. Have fun!
  9. Not sure if the 1.4 has rev limit protection for a cold engine like the t sport. But on the t sport the ECU doesn't let you rev passed 7k when cold. Perhaps something similar but I assume this is when your engine is warm, i.e. needle half way. Otherwise not sure what that could be other than ECU issues unless its drive by wire (electronic throttle, not cable) and that's playing up.
  10. If you read the forums, quite a few of the guys have had problems replacing the shocks as they tend to leak on this model and TTE don't make them any more so I believe. Also a lot of people have had problems with the exhaust system collapsing and a lot of people seem to replace them with a custom exhaust. So if your going to check things out check these things. Also make sure you do an oil check on the supercharger, a phew on inspection have been done dry. If you search the forum on these points you should find some results. Good luck!
  11. You have to drive most twin cams to the ragged edge, that's the price of decent fuel economy at the low rev end and performance at the top end. It does unfortunately mean that for showing off with fast overtaking you do have to work the gears more and make sure its close to or on the sports cam, when I'm wanting to be in a position to accelerate quickly I tend to hover over the 4k rev mark as I tend to want to feel the lift engage at 6.2k for the extra smile factor. Obviously knowing the gears and the maximum speeds is quite important when down shifting as sometimes you will want to drop from 6th to 3rd or even 2nd. The car can quite happily cruise on the flat in 6th at 35mph without labouring the engine. I don't tend to like keeping it in 2nd from over 15mph, its just too noisy and jittery. You can with fast shifting off the line change from 1st to 2nd to 3rd while keeping on the sports cam (in lift), 1st to 2nd is a little tricky but be warned it probably wont help your clutch or gearbox if you don't do it smoothly. It does mean though you have to take it up to its 8250rpm to give you enough time to change. unfortunately the peak torque I believe is actually around 7800rpm so passed this there isn't really much gain in terms of acceleration.
  12. Mine will need doing eventually too, bit worn in certain places :) Just unscrew the gear knob and take it off, then unclip the gearbox/handbrake surround and lift the gear gaiter over the gear lever. Then you just need to find a suitable replacement.
  13. Don't think those discs will fit your current setup as they are larger than your current size, the 2.0 D4D and T Sport brakes are interchangeable as the D4D needs the extra stopping power for the weight it bears. Your pads will be offset, that's even if your able to fit the caliper back on and bolt it up. Not great on lowering springs but I'd imagine there wouldn't be a difference in that aspect.
  14. Doesn't look too bad, see here page 218 (same engine) http://2zzge.com/library/Celica%202ZZGE/Repair%20Manual/volume2.pdf I think the question is probably access to it and tools, if it were me I'd probably have a go myself if I thought I could get the bolts out. It does say in the guide you don't need to get the alternator out, although I'm not sure if its placed slightly differently in the Celica. Not sure about the price though sorry.
  15. The noise insulation is really good on the corolla, but sorry I'll contradict and say the T Sport is loud at 75/80mph (around 4k rpm) imo compared to most cars I've driven. Its quiet as a mouse below 55 in 6th when cruising and its difficult to hear the engine running when stationary. 50 miles a day not stopping and a light foot I'll guestimate around 35-36mpg. The problem is its very tempting to put your foot down because you get addicted to the noise of the engine. I only do about 70 miles a week as I cycle to work and use company cars .. so I average about 30mpg with a heavy foot ;) If you go for a test drive and consider buying one always warm it up and take it into lift to ensure its all working ok.
  16. Clutch squeak is very common, I have to lube mine once per year with white grease.. lots of info in this post towards the end .. http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/103022-clutch-squeak/page-4 Did mine again about 2 weeks ago, ignore my earlier posts.. learnt a lot about this car since 2009.
  17. FoxX

    Stalling

    I'd perhaps see if you have an idle control valve that you can clean out with some carb cleaner ^_^ and clean the mass air flow sensor out as well. Sorry couldn't tell you where the idle control valve is located on your engine, mass air flow will but plugged into your air box.
  18. High bite point is a sign of wear usually, although both my T sports have had relatively high bite points and they have been absolutely fine. Its probably getting around the age for a replacement clutch mind at 77k. But yes I occasionally over-rev myself, particularly when I haven't driven it for a week or have been swapping cars. The only rattling I get is from the exhaust heat cover when I don't give the engine enough revs and it causes the manifold to shake under pressure. Doesn't seem to happen as much when hot, not sure if its a similar thing your talking about. Try a start in third and see if you get any slippage, you should be able to pull away without bouncing off the rev limiter. Note that you do tend to get a lot of deceleration noise through the gearbox, this is usually quite normal.. worse case scenario its the gearbox bearings that need renewing. With regards to engine management, I'd perhaps pull the two 30 amp fuses in the engine fuse box to reset the ECU before paying for a diagnostic. If the problem comes back, inspect all your fuses and then see if you can get a garage to read the code for you fairly cheaply. Unless its fairly obvious you have a problem component you wont know where to look until you have that code.
  19. Be nice if the government actually fed more tax back into the councils so they can actually fix all the pot holes, seem to spend all my time swerving over the road to avoid them at the moment. Worst thing is that even when they fix them the contractors that are actually patching the holes aren't even levelling the patch off around my area so you end up with a raised bit of tarmac which is just as bad as the sucken hole in the first place Maybe I should invest in a Citroen with air suspension
  20. Yea Mintex have a reputation on here for being pretty cheap and good. I have pagid fronts and rear disc/pads on my t sport at the moment, had them on for about 4 months and they are absolutely fine. The pads come with anti squeal shims as well and they don't make a sound. Bought mine from eurocarparts and they have a discount on currently, but it works out a little more than that deal.
  21. Yea its a chain, good for 100k before a tightness check. I don't really notice any gains for high octane fuel to be honest, probably a little smoother acceleration if you reset your ECU. Petrol's so expensive at the moment, the regular stuff is enough to put a smile on your face. Where-as with the super charged version you don't have much of a choice unless you like pinking noises. Not sure if there has been too much developed with regards to lift controllers, a lot of people have used power FC. You don't really get a huge amount of after markets parts for this car like with the Honda's. There are a least a few people on here that have uprated cam's for extra torque which seem to make quite a nice improvement, engine mod wise that's probably one of the cheaper options as turbo's / superchargers will cost. You can use the official TTE strut brace in the pre-facelift with a little bit of gentle pipe bending, but there are plenty of other options available. Maybe see a tiny tiny improvement from a panel filter, if you want proper gains you need a decent cold air intake. Some people remove the air snorkel, or change it to improve performance.. not tried this though so can't comment. Oil is 5w 30, 46k miles isn't really too bad. People have had over 100k without any major issues so long as you keep on top of the oil changes, putting the wrong oil in though as some poor people have found out recently is pretty disastrous for this engine.
  22. Na they should know what there doing, watch - pretty corny but explains a bit about it and I think its probably the easiest way to get your answer unless any of the guys on here have another idea ^_^
  23. Probably best taking it in to get it pressure tested, if you don't have a leak and you've topped it up then there should be enough refrigerant as it lasts for years. Although apparently too much refrigerant can cause warm air too. When you say the clutch engages, you looked in the engine bay and when the A/C is on you can see the central part of the AC unit spinning ok? if its not spinning then you may have low refrigerant or a problem with the pressure switch or clutch. Air/moisture in the system can also cause similar problems, I think they have to vacuum suck this out.
  24. That's interesting to know, I suppose you could take the car on a hot blast before taking it in just in case. Those stage 2 cams you have from what I've seen are pretty impressive, I saw a comparison on another site between two t sports and I was stunned at the extra low down torque you get. Safe to say the regular t sport couldn't keep up ^_^ quicker than a type R EP3 for sure.
  25. Hah that's sneaky, wouldn't it still fail on the CO2 emissions test though? or be touch and go at least.