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petemagsati

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  • Toyota Model
    Corolla E12 1.4 vvt-i

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  1. I wouldn't bother. Taking off the interior door trim is pretty easy, you just need to undo the screws and a connector for your electric window switches, then gently prise all the way round the panel (its got plastic things that just pop out and are easy to break if you do it unevenly.) The problem is you won't be able to do all that much with the window when you have that off, because there's a membrane and metal parts covering the juicy bits. Maybe you're adventurous but when I got that far I thought naaahhh. Take it to Mr. T and he'll take 20 minutes to tell you what's going on.
  2. Hi all P0420's seem to be a common post, and most of the answers say "yes, it's probably your cat". Well that's what Mr. Toyota told me when I got my diagnosis done. I didn't trust him for two reasons: (a) I had asked them to reset the alarm, and it was on as soon as I got back in the car. When I asked them they said they did reset it and it came on straight away. This is not possible as the drive cycle before the car self diagnoses can take a couple of weeks depending on how you drive. Just to check I reset by unhooking the battery and it took a few days to come on again. (B) They told me to replace both the cat and the front lambda sensor. It's either one or the other, so I suspected even they weren't sure. After questioning this they said " It's definitely the cat, but we always replace the o2 sensor at the same time. Price for both including fitting: €1300. Well, I just got my NCT done (Irish equivalent of the MOT), and the emission results came back as 0.00% CO and 0 ppm HC at low idle. I take this as meaning the cat is working perfectly. I would strongly recommend that anyone who has this alarm get's an emissions test done, because my impression is that garages will just throw parts at it at your expense. Just ordered the lambda sensor for €200, hope it does the job. Will post again when my light goes off!
  3. About the workshop manual thing..... I looked for one on the haynes website, but they didn't have one for the E12. However today I bought one in Halfords for July97 to Feb02 (P to 51reg), having realised the old corolla had the same 1.4 vvt-i engine (4ZZ-FE). Apart from very minor differences it seems to apply to the E12 very well. Also, if your engine is idling rough you should get a full service. If you don't want to fork out, use cleaning additives and replace your fuel filter. Shell V-power petrol can't hurt either.
  4. You're better off getting a whole new gearbox you know is in good nick, cause if fifth gear went its likely you'll get problems with your other gears down the line. Even if parts for the 5th gear job are cheap, the job itself takes ages and labour will cost you heaps. Labour will be cheaper for a new box, and you'll feel safer about your other gears.
  5. I've rust all over my brakes but they're fine. Get them cleaned at a dealership, or DIY it if you're tight and want to risk messing with your brakes. As for the nuts I'd get them all changed if I was you just to be sure. And don't jump on the wrench to make sure they're tight enough........
  6. I don't know but no-one else has posted yet so this can't hurt........... Your idle speed will be controlled by your ecu, so you'll have to mess with that unless you want to actually change some-thing physical in the car like a throttle body etc. Is there a problem with the speed? Should be around 600-700, or 1000+ from cold. As for workshop manual, ask a toyota garage.
  7. I just changed my battery in my E12 corolla 1.4, and the car was running fine for about 20 miles and then BOOM! engine warning light. I disconnected the battery and hooked it up again and the light was gone. After driving the car for another few miles the f****** ***** ***** came on again at the exact same place it had before; after a long straight at 60mph in 5th. I've heard about the "paperclip check" where you get the error codes by connecting 2 particular terminals on a "DLC1" plug, but anything I can find specific to my corolla only mentions the DLC3 plug under the dash and all the equipment that has to go with it. Does anyone know if there is a DLC1 plug somewhere in the engine bay and if so where? And if not, is it possible to get the codes from the DLC3 without some specialised device, ie by just connecting two terminals with a length of wire? I am flat broke, but I own a length of wire and am willing to get mildly electrocuted.
  8. I've had the same problem on the same car. I let it go for a week or two and then one day the car was completely dead (no warning lights or anything, not even the beep when you have the key in and the door open) after I'd been driving it the same day. Push started it and 70 miles later my power steering went in the middle of a fast corner, as soon as I stopped the car it was dead again. I reckon its the battery, I'm actually in the process of changing it right now! I recommend getting your battery checked/changed now, cause if its like mine it could go at any time and its really crap ringing people for jump leads for an 02 Toyota. I had to jump it off an old Fiat Brava yesterday............
  9. Just be careful around electrical connections with anything wet (particularly the battery). Even with the car off you could short something. Flash wipes/ car-cleaning wipes are good for getting it fairly clean, then use a cotton cloth (eg. old underpants) to prevent streaks on paintwork/plastic. I used car dashboard polish and the underpants for the engine cover and airbox. You may not be bothered with hoses/cables at first but that's what really makes the difference. Clean everything you can! MAKE SURE you don't spray dashboard polish on anything other than the engine cover/airbox, its flammable and could possibly be corrosive on some materials in the engine. You can probably get a special cleaning polish for engines anyway that may be safer. I was very careful to do it when the engine was cold and gave it time to dry completely before starting it.
  10. Just elbow grease, wish I had a better way available, it took ages!
  11. Before After Does anyone know how to clean the carpet type stuff at the rear of the engine bay? I tried soapy water but it still looks crap
  12. 70k (miles) was the mileage on the Yaris! The Corolla only has 44k miles on it. Yes it has been raped, unfortunately the guy before me was a fireman who used to start the car up and drive the hell out of it for about 30 seconds to the station near his house anytime there was a fire in his town. The gear oil was cold every time the car has been driven for the last 5000 miles! It goes into 3rd gear fine most of the time, its maybe 1 in 20 changes that just don't work and I have to let out a bit of clutch to get it in. You're right about the synchromesh too, because the gears are always connected to eachother, and when you shift you just connect one to the shaft with the synchromesh, nothing actually happens with the gears except more torque going through them. As for the matching revs thing, I'm used to doing it just to get smooth changes, but how I actually move the gearstick into 3rd seems to have more effect. I got the car for 2500 less than market price, so I'm gambling with whether the engine was strong enough to hold up to the abuse it got from the fireman. So far I'm pretty lucky, I'm told the inlet manifold thing is a common problem and nothing else has gone wrong mechanically. I'm crossing my fingers!
  13. 2002, you can tell on Irish cars by the number plate 02-DL = 2002 Donegal. It was originally a UK car but the previous owner imported it from Northern Ireland and registered it here.
  14. Hello everyone I'm from Ireland and just bought an E12 1.4 vvt-i with 43k miles on the clock. Mixed emotions so far, used to have a 1.0 yaris which was rock solid. The first thing (including minor stuff) that went wrong with that (that wasn't my fault!) was a water pump at 70k, and as for driving it was actually brilliant. Great off the line and around corners and connected to the road, but a bit small, ugly, girly and sluggish at high speeds. I loved that car but needed a change. Love the handling of the corolla, the power (when the throttle finally realises I'm stamping on it), the interior is pretty high quality, and it looks good, but there is a horrible noise coming from the intake manifold (baffle broken/loose). My driver side electric window check strap needed changing 800 miles after I got the car (110 Euros!!!!!!), and 3rd gear is starting to feel dodgy (could be 700 Euro if it eventually goes but I'd rather skip from 2nd to 4th than pay that right now). I fixed a whole host of small problems as well as getting a full service. I'm fine with the stuff that was wrong when I bought the car, but so many things have happened since I got it I feel nervous driving it around hoping nothing will fall off. The inlet manifold is always there making that noise which reminds me of the money I don't have (350Euro + 150 labour), so maybe when I can get that fixed I'll stop my spiral into paranoid psychosis. Despite my complaining about the thing I spent 4 hours cleaning the interior the other night and it really is a nice looking car. Definitely a love hate relationship so far. Anyway here's a picture. And does anyone know where to get an inlet manifold for this thing without going through a dealer? I would buy a performance one if I could find one; it would be nice to have that as my first modification instead of the typical air filter, and I would feel like I'm adding something to the car rather than paying to keep it the same.
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