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CTS03

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Everything posted by CTS03

  1. It will be great help to know if Toyota Guarantee has covered the repair of clutch throwout bearing?
  2. CTS03

    Black Smoke!

    I have also seen this when the "lift" is activated in 2nd gear at 6.200rpm, though the description of the smoke's color was not exactly black. I think the "smoke" tends to disappear if you pass the lift point few more times. I guess it could be a momentarily bad mixture of fuel in combination with a strong move of previously condensed gases out of the exhaust.
  3. We all have the same manual. In fact, my statement about the 5w30 was not exactly right. It is indeed recommended for all Corollas for a wide temperature range but for the 2zz-ge engine is allowed only up to 10 degrees Celsius (or 50F), while the 10w30 can be used even above ~ 40C !
  4. The 5w30 is forbidden for TS according to Corolla's manual. In Greece, Toyota is normally using fully synthetic 5w40. I asked my Toyota service station to use 10w40 when the car had 15.000km. There was certainly some consumption but I did not keep values at that time.
  5. Dear all It will be very helpful to know your experience for engine oil consumption in 1.8TS. My CTS has approximately 60.000 km and regularly consumes about 150ml / 1.000km, if the distance from the min to maximum oil level marks corresponds to 1.5 L. In other words, the oil level would move from max to min if I would change oil every 10.000 km. The car is driven on average at ~4000-4500 rpm. I use 5w40 fully synthetic but I have also the same results for 10w40 (Toyota oils)
  6. I think Toyota should take seriously this brake issue, since it starts happenning in many E12 Corollas. The braking is activated randomly, not necessarily on both of the two rear wheels, and can become very dangerous on twisty roads. I had a similar experience long time ago http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...p;hl=vibrations Since that time, I realized that this is a rather usual issue, e.g. I have seen several similar reports in a Greek corolla-club forum. I feel that it is impossible for the mechanics (in the 1st service) to adjust the handbrake to the specified 25% braking performance, without to have the random rear braking problem. This might be a serious safety issue for a recall.
  7. Hi corsol Could you please tell me what are the standard lamps in E12 corollas, H1 or H7? I understand that using the +50% H1 or H7 lamps has no risk at all. Do you know how much power they consume and how it compares to the standard ones?
  8. My comment is not exactly about adjusting the clutch but I guess it is also relevant. I have accepted that gear shifting in TS could not be ideal but I am curious to know if somebody could explain the following behaviour: (1) Shifting from 1st to 2nd is OK if I move very fast (not delay in neutral). Otherwise the stick is somehow "blocked" out of 2nd (neutral) and I have to move it around a litle bit and then push ("hit") it again toward 2nd. Of course, the fast move needs very good timing with the clutch, otherwise you may feel some gear grinding. (2) Shifting from 2nd to 3rd is the opposite. I have to wait a bit before entering 3rd and then push it into 3rd. Otherwise gear grinding is felt. Some shifting inconvenience may be related to the fact that my clutch bites very fast (which I like). But why the difference of 1st to 2nd from 2nd to 3rd shift?
  9. The same high idle happened to me after the 30.000km service. You should worry only if it really oscillates. I guess it is not the ABS/ESP automatick checking noise? Then it should be related with the brakes.
  10. The problem with clutch in reverse is due to the fact that you keep it half-pressed to regulate the speed. Avoiding this becomes quite difficult if the clutch has a very long travel, as it was initially in my car. My new clutch has short travel (or it was adjusted for short travel) but it is not very convenient for starts (wheel spinning) and gear changes within traffic. It is also very difficult to change from 1st to 2nd.
  11. We have obvioulsy experienced the same problem. Initially I thought that the vibration was coming from the front side but it was the result of rear braking. It is so easy to misinterpret a problem! It seems that I could feel it only with 5th gear because of the low torque. And this happened only when I was on a longtrip where I could run at high speed most of the time. Except of the vibrations observed twice within 2 months before my first post here, I had also noticed that the car was occassionaly "loosing" strength. For example, last summer I felt once the engine very stressed while accelerating above 6000rpm with 5th gear and I smelled gasoline. Apparently my handbrake was problematic for long time but, in my case, only Toyota may have touched it. Hopefully, this last trip on a free road with many bends and fast parts helped to reveal the problem (smell/heat!) without having an accident! Toyota has replaced my rear brake disks and handbrake pads(?) under warantee. They were also very rusted.
  12. You should check the rear brakes: http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=48913
  13. I understand the following: 30mm lowering TTE (Eibach) springs are ~25% stiffer than standard ones (1.4-1.6lt Corollas ?), making a reasonable upgrading. Bilstein B8 sprint shocks are shorter and ~10% stiffer than standrd ones and are sold with 1 year warantee. Koni shocks are adjustable from standard to 100%? stiffness increase, but have no warantee for their use (at least in Greece). Toyota standard shocks have 100.000km warantee! Shocks are worn rapidly, especially the rear ones. Wear variations should soon overcome any small initial performance differences, such as 10%. Thus, I suggest you to keep using the standard ones, at least if they are covered by warantee. And for a meaningful suspension upgrading you should go for coilovers covered by a reasonable warantee.
  14. I just realized another serious braking problem in my 2003 CTS: http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=48913
  15. Bad news! The problem seems to be related to ocassional locking of the brake of the rear left wheel while driving. During a 70+70Km trip, I noticed in 2-3 cases some vibration with the 5th gear, which hapened independently of slope of road, exact speed, etc and it was imposisble to reproduce it anytime. After parking the car, we noticed a strong "smoke"-like smell in the parking room (like burned matches) and after searching around we found that it was coming from the rear left wheel (!), which was the hottest wheel on the car. Much hotter than the normally hot front wheels and the relatively cool rear right wheel.
  16. I think what I experienced has a common source with the "wheel hop" problem; oscillations of the front side of the car when starting moving with spinning wheels (usual on wet road). This effect is attributed to combined oscillations of the suspension and the engine on its mounts. I guess my engine's movements may come into reasonance as I apply a variable slight pressure on the gas pedal with 5th gear to keep constant the speed on downhill road (in both cases).
  17. I guess many Corolla TS owners have felt the resonance noise from the gear-shifting cables. It is heard at high engine rpm, e.g above 5000rpm and if it becomes intense it may also bring into resonance other loose parts, e.g. handles of the vents, the dash, etc. My 2003 CTS was temporarily fixed a year ago, by inserting the usual soft materials, but this noise has returned back and it's very intense. So, I am wondering if Toyota has been replacing the gear-shift cables to cure this problem in European countries (after customer complain), similarly to the recall in Australia. It is about the pre-facelift CTS.
  18. Have you noticed that if you stop driving the car for 10min and then start it again, the gearbox has become much smoother? It is obviously heated effectively from the hot engine if the car is not moving. Don't worry! This is another thing you should learn to tolerate while you own a Corolla TS. It will be fine in the summer. I guess this is related with an abrupt clutch adjustment (low engagement point for the pedal). The alternative is to have a long clutch pedal travel, burning the clutch very easily.
  19. Not possible. The tires are new (but 205/50/16) and the car runs very smoothly at 160 km/h. It is not the "soft" vibration of unbalanced wheels but something strong, like termination of the suspension. It resembles somehow with a vibration on the steering wheel which I feel at very fast right turns (LH car), but this should be normal behaviour (suspension limits) of a front wheel drive car.
  20. I had car's front side vibrations twice on two different national roads and I started thinking that it might be a suspension problem and not related to roads' irregularities: Near an exit/crossing I slowdown with 5th gear and I keep going with ~100km/h, slightly downhill, regulating the speed with little pressure on the gas pedal. Then I started feeling periodic-like vertical vibrations at the front side of the car (vertical movement of the steering wheel) like if the road had a periodic grid of grooves made by a heavy vehicle (not using tires) or intentionally prepared for new asfalt. However, there were no visible signs on the road and the vibrations remained when I shifted to a new construction lane. The first time it happened, I was going at a slower speed (~80km/h), probably with 4th gear (or 5th) on a different road. Has anyone experienced something similar? Any idea what the cause could be (if not the road)?
  21. I have absolutely the same experience with all of you! The car has several problems of bad engineering (bad assembly, defective parts, short life parts) but the worst experience is the attitude of Toyota dealerships, which deny all problems as "normal operation". You need always to fight for a solution. Fighting means searching in the internet to discover that you have a very common problem covered by warantee, posting on users' forums to identify the common problem (Toyota should read them) and frequently contacting the national importer (Toyota Hellas in my case) to authorize the work. It is obvious that Greece or UK does not make any difference and this means that we see a Toyota Europe policy. I had a different image for Toyota before I buy this car and I try to figure out why all these happen. Some thoughts: (1) We are not the usual customers of Toyota cars, who simply want a car that may never stop at the road. We bought CTS because driving-is-fun for us and we realize more problems which are ignored by the average Toyota customer. (2) Toyota's R&D on CTS was very poor, unlikely for that expected for a performance car. (3) Local Toyota dealerships are not compensated (fully or in part) by the national Toyota importer and the national Toyota importer is not compensated by Toyota Europe for the warantee work. I cannot understand why your local Toyota people would ruin your customer relationship if they could get compensation from Toyota for their efforts. I suspect the way of organization of Toyota Europe's network is creating the dealerships' attitude problem. My conclusion: If driving-is-fun to you then save money and buy a car from a drive-for-fun cars' company like BMW. And you would want to keep your car for long. If you want buying a car that would never stop on the road, then why spending money on a 1.4lt Corolla when you could buy a much cheaper Hyundai Accent?
  22. This noise was coming from the alternator's belt tensioner, which seems to be a usual problem for the 2ZZGE engine.
  23. Hi Stamatis Perhaps, you would be interested to know that there is also a Greek Corolla club: http://www.corollaclub.com/forum/forum.php...ba140cdf1957afb Rattles in Corollas are characteristic of their bad assembly. But if you suspect the suspension you should measure the shocks' performance. Somebody said that Toyota considers them failed if they perform below 55% and replaces them under guarantee.
  24. Do you have any idea if the compressor's Eibach springs are the same with the "TTE 30mm lowering springs" for E12 Corollas ? The lowering effect is the same. Then, we could have a well-tested and cheap upgrading of the handling of our lowered T Sports if we could also get the Eibach shockers from Eibach. TTE does not sell the shockers alone.
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