Rossi46

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About Rossi46

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  • Toyota Model
    D4D Avensis T-Spirit 2003

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  1. Old post I know, but I would like to say thanks for the info contained within this thread. I had a aircon pipe rust through, and obviously all the refrigerant leaked out. After a "it must be the compressor" chat with one place, I found this info and the aircon diagnostics showed low pressure cct ( code 23 ). Leaky Pipe found under presure test, replaced and system regassed, and it back to showing "00" and working correctly - phew :) Obviously the concerns stated above about pressing buttons during the diagnostic mode are rather valid - its possible that you could reconfigure all sorts of things in a bad way, but this is an extremely useful diagnostic (if used carefully) to see if the ac system is at least trying to energise the compressor (without getting the multimeter out) Thanks again. You're welcome, i'm glad it helped you.
  2. I posted one last year for my 2003 D4D Avensis mate. I would think this would be more relevant to you than the later 180 BHP info. Hope it is of some use My egr post Cheers, Adz
  3. I've got a Dension IPOD kit, as well as a Rockford Fosgate Sub and an amp in my 53 plate D4D Avenesis. The Dension unit allows control of my IPOD whils driving, as well as displaying song text on my head unit too. I wired the amp and Sub using a filter which takes the low frequency outputs from the head unit and feeds the Sub, through a mono amp. It's not as good as having a dedicated sub pre-out but it's still very effective. It's a family car obviously (it's a gold avensis after all) but I do 650 miles a week in it, so I wanted a nice stereo system , without reverting to a non-standard head unit. It's the best thing about my car. If you need any more info feel free to ask.
  4. Sorry, no info on the fuel filter.
  5. Is your oil level OK? It might be slightly on the low side, so when you're on an incline it could be lacking enough lubrication. Worth a check, if you haven't already done it.
  6. I'm not sure about that mate but i've had 2 different faults since i've owned my car and both times VSC/TRC came on.
  7. Buy an OBD2 reader from ebay and read/clear the codes yourself. It saves a lot of time and money, mine was less than £20 from ebay. Also, every time the engine light has appeared on my dash, it has been accompanied by the VSC and TRC lights as well.
  8. These are the codes and diag info which I was looking for. I had a CD which I only found yesterday. aircon diag1.pdf aircon codes.pdf code 21.pdf code 24.pdf code 41.pdf aircon locats.pdf I only re-visited the post as I currently have a problem, giving me as low as 3 degrees C on the RH vents (up to 60 degrees C)and a steady fixed 60 degrees C on the left. The codes 21 and 24 are red herrings I believe, as it's unlikely both sensors are U/S. My problem is the mixer servo, so I need to get stuck in. The 2 buttons I suggested in the earlier posts are the the correct ones (auto and recirc), they're just in a different position in the LHD model seemingly. Hopefully these codes and info will be of some use.
  9. Rossi46

    Egr Valve

    Where about it is? I have taken the whole valve out, spray it and cleaned it- the top part and the bottom one( the bottom has 2 holes only). Do you mean the holes on the engine block where the valve attaches? My Avensis is 2.0 d-4d 116 bhp year 2003. Regards Palmerino If the code is still pointing to the EGR valve after it's been cleaned there's obviously still a problem with it. As the valve is moving freely manually, maybe the solenoid (the top part of the valve) is sticking. This might get cleared when you turn the ignition off and on again.
  10. No, it's a bit of frayed material from the fleece I was wearing . Good spot though
  11. Good stuff Hope it works for you David Cheers Adz
  12. Cheers Pete That's why I did it, hopefully someone will be able to save some cash and the piccies should make the job less daunting. Regards, Adz
  13. Just an update... My car is now averaging 54.5 MPG and rising over the last 400 miles (on the display), where previously 43-45 was about the most I had been getting. I'm happy and i'm going to do an oil change soon, which will hopefully give me a few more MPG back. It feels much sharper and cleaner, which makes it easier to make good progress. Result
  14. I decided to tackle my 2003 D4D EGR valve today, after my MPG has dropped from 55MPG to about 45MPG over the last month or so. I wouldn't say i've noticed a drop in power, as there's never really been any to start with. After trying a few remedies (checking tyre pressures, new air filter, fuel system cleaner) I decided to go for it as nothing made a difference, after reading a few posts on here. There are a few posts about the EGR, and one is very good but is for the later engine (mine is the gutless 116BHP 2.0 D) I decided to try and sort it today and it's much more fiddly than the newer EGR valve location. Anyway, I hope the piccies are of some help to someone, they would have helped me. The 1st pic shows the EGR valve location when viewed from the passenger side, with the engine cover and airbox removed. This 2nd pic is with the plastic engine cover removed and airbox hose, cover and filter removed. By taking the airbox out access was possible. After taking the air filter cover and air filter out, 3 bolts are exposed (12mm Heads) undo these and remove the airbox. To remove the EGR itself, there are two 12mm nuts and one 12mm bolt holding it on. There are also 2 coolant pipes which I removed (held on by hose clips) which just seem to be for cooling the EGR valve, as one is an input to the housing and the other is the output. Some water came out, so try and keep the hose as high as you can or bung the hose. The 2 retaining nuts are either side of the EGR valve and the bolt is at the bottom and you'll have to feel for it, as it's not visible from above. There is also an electrical connector, which operates the valve. I've pictured the EGR valve removed and the hole it left, for clarity. To be honest, although it was fairly dirty inside, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be but (seeing as the car now has 136000 miles on it) I cleaned the EGR using brake cleaner and a toothbrush and manually exercised the valve. I put it all back together and whilst I was at it decided to clean the MAF sensor with alchohol cleaner spray. Anyway i've got a few more pictures if anyone needs any more detail. I'll report back when i've drove the car next week, to see if it's any better. If anything i've written doesn't make sense, please feel free to correct me. Sorry to go on but hopefully this will help someone, as there doesn't seem to be much info about the earlier D4d EGR valves.