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Everything posted by Yaristotle

  1. Yaristotle

    Idle speed

    In anycase it is well worthwhile replacing the air-filter, though. There is a whole choice here: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/air-filter-10360/toyota/yaris/yaris-scp1-nlp1-ncp1/17569-1-0-16v
  2. This response fron Honest John might be worth a read. Good luck. 🙂
  3. Clearly a devious ploy by Mazda knowing that an MX5 would gain some much-needed je ne sais quoi when booted with a set of Yaris steelies. 😠
  4. My understanding would actually be that you have the wrong wheels fitted currently.I thought that all Yari of this vintage had 14" rims as a minimum, so not aware that 13" rims were ever fitted. Await to be corrected on this point, though, if I am misinformed.
  5. You are probably best using some light grit sandpaper and maybe a little methylated spirit on a cloth to properly clear the residue. My replacement seal came with a plastic backing which required to be removed thus leaving a tacky surface on the seal. Nonetheless I smeared a thin coat of silicone grease on both sides of the seal just in case the lamp requires subsequent removal (bulb replacement etc).
  6. As above, it was this that had failed when I endured the same symptoms as you describe. You can see the original seal in the pic below. Here is what I purchased: https://picclick.co.uk/Genuine-Toyota-Yaris-Rear-Combination-Lamp-Body-Gasket-323236106859.html It is actually rather more substantial than the original and prevented any further damp.
  7. What about this? It is the Toyota ethylene glycol stuff and is recommended to last several years.
  8. So I have learnt something today, then. Good point. I sit corrected.
  9. The Mk1 has electric power steering so there will be no such reservoir.
  10. The point I made here is that it is the owner that is putting the recall on the back-burner as is evidenced by some other posts to this thread. Is it actually the airbag that requires replacement or simply the sensor? I take the point about Takata’s failure to supply but in my own case I received a letter directly from Toyota re my 14 year-old Yaris making clear that I should call my local dealer – it seems that age is not Toyota’s determining factor in replacement priority. It did take a few months for the dealer to obtain the said part and the task was carried out. Result: successful completion with no apparent rattles. My father has a Yaris (two years younger than my own) which went through the same process following which the air-con light refused to illuminate. This has since righted itself so it may be unfair to point a finger at the dealer. I guess, overall, that once the manufacturer has sent out the original notification letter they have legally covered their corporate !Removed! as, presumably, responsibility then falls to the dealer to carry out the work. Clearly if the part is unobtainable then the ball is back in the manufacturer’s court. Once the said parts are with the dealer and the work can go ahead then, when notified, the responsibility is with the vehicle owner. For me it would appear pretty logical to make MOT failure a consequence an owner’s neglect to undertake this task. bathtub tom said: In my case it was a ten-year-old car with a recall for the passenger airbag. I would had to take it to a main dealer fifteen miles away and wait for the job to be done. The car had no squeaks or rattles from the dashboard. What chance of it still being quiet after it had been dismantled? I usually drove the car and hardly ever sat in the passenger seat so was unlikely to be affected by a faulty passenger airbag. I do not think that the model you refer to requires the dashboard to be dismantled though this may be relevant to other models. I am pretty sure that the work can be done simply with access via the passenger glovebox. As others have pointed out, though, this should hardly be a determining factor as to whether to carry out the work or not..
  11. Putting a manufacturer’s recall on the backburner may not be possible for too much longer if the House of Commons Transport Select Committee has its way. It would appear that the HoCTSC have made a proposal to the government that vehicles with outstanding recalls should not be issued with a MOT certificate. blog.greenflag.com/2017/cars-fail-mot-recall-work/
  12. I have owned my 2002 1.0 GLS since 2007(47k). My dad has a 54 1.3 TSpirit (30k). The only non-service part to have failed on either is the front washer pump on the TSpirit. The exhausts still seem fine and neither vehicle seems to attract advisories in the MOT. Went into local Toyota dealer recently for the obligatory replacement airbag switch and they seemed to give their, albeit unsolicited, approval to the cars generally with a wedge of green ticks. Would that have been a Delphi battery, by any chance? Replaced the original last November after almost fifteen years. It didn't actually fail but I simply reckoned another winter would have seen it go tіts-up. My dads one went a year earlier so he obviously had a rogue. So well done, Delphi and well done, Toyota.
  13. Yes, Tom, good point, it is the EBA we are referring to here. What I should add is that the car belongs to my dad who is relaying the symptoms down the phone. In addition I should have mentioned that this seems to only have happened when he was carrying two passengers in the rear with the front passenger seat unoccupied (don’t ask ). So this phenomena seems to arise when weight is distributed rather irregularly, perhaps unwisely so.
  14. Yaris 2004 1.3 petrol (manual) 30,000miles Has anyone experienced a problem with this model where the abs can cut in even when only modest braking pressures are applied? The result of this anomaly is substantially firmer braking than required. The trouble is that it is neither a regular, nor frequent, experience but occurring at irregular times. Is this issue likely to be a consequence of a defective abs sensor? Both front tyres are new and the rears are in good condition. If anybody is able to suggest any areas of investigation it would be much appreciated. Thanks for any advice.
  15. I am not aware of the water pump being an item with a high failure-rate but it does sound like yours is in need of replacement. The Haynes manual recommends removal of the lower cover panel even for relatively minor tasks like changing the coolant and it is probably best to do this in order to avoid making a mess under the bonnet. There are about 10 bolts to remove and it should not take you long. As for alternative pumps you could consider the following: This one from Jap parts ebay Good luck ;)
  16. Thanks for the comments, guys. Madasafish: The size is 15/16. Geoff: My handbook does not seem to provide any details in reference to gearbox oil. Mr Haynes specifies GL-4/GL-5 as does the downloadable manual on this site. The Comma website, upon entering the registration, produces SW75W-90 GL-4, so this would seem the one to obtain. The same product is specified for the 1.3 also. It is only available in 1 litre containers whereas some of Comma’s lubricants can be obtained in 5 litre amounts, but that’s no real issue. Cheers, chaps.
  17. Hi there I am planning to change the gearbox oil in my 2002 1.0GLS. The vehicle has only covered around 36,000 but now it is approaching its 11th year thought it would be well worthwhile. My dad has a 2004 1.3 T-Spirit model with only 27,000 but a 5 litre container would provide for both motors. Not particularly looking for a bargain purchase as, I guess, this job is only undertaken every few years. So I wonder if anyone would care to comment on this fully synthetic transmission oil or recommend any others: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EP-75w90-Transmission-Fluid-Fully-Synthetic-5-Litre-5L-API-GL-4-GL-5-/110957187105?lgeo=1&clk_rvr_id=436555314622&vectorid=229508 As usual, any comments appreciated.
  18. Try selecting 2nd gear prior to reverse just to see if engagement is any easier. Also, you could consider having the gearbox oil changed, though, I would expect this to be an unusual measure at only 18k. Good luck. Y
  19. Sorry you have had to wait so long for a reply. Welcome to the site by the way. I have the earlier model (2002), but I think jacking points are identical - it might be worth confirming this with your local dealer. Here is a diagram of the jps on my vehicle (from the ower's handbook): http://s182.photobuc...ckingpoints.jpg Hope it is of assistance.
  20. Just input your car reg here and wham: a Bosch batt with 4 year guarantee and no delivery charge for £47.50. Can't be bad.
  21. For all enthusiasts, pedants and, of course, anal retentives, the new 2012 MOT Inspection Manualis now available. Enjoy your reading and a Happy New Year to all.
  22. You will be okay if you used a semi-synth oil then so no need for the flush. And I believe it was me who pointed out that you never know how much synth is in semi-synth alone with my mate "Acetip" on here Well said you and Acetip, then. Sounds like an amazing deal on the oil tbh... I would have thought the same as you. I went to Costco (A few years ago) and they had on sale 3x1ltr of Castrol EDGE (5w-30, VW 507 00 spec) for £9.99 and it costs £19 per ltr! So I went and bought £250 worth of it as I know I'll use it on me cars! Fill your boots while you get a chance I say! Did the same with some Motul V300 (5w-30) that was on sale off Ebay for £10 for 2ltrs and it cost £40 approx. So bought a rook of that an all! Lol... Bit of an oil head me There were only three containers of this stuff of which I bought just one. When I returned they had unsurprisingly been sold. This was from that exclusive emporium for the discerning purchaser er…Sainsbury’s. Probably not worth hiring the low-loader until you have established that its in stock at your local branch, though. :D I will definitely keep an eye on the bay in future.
  23. @MistermenaIf your car is C3 spec and it states that on the container then you should be okay. Sounds like you just might have the older containers and thats why you got such a good deal. I'd be back there and buy a few more tbh. I think you are probably correct. What’s that old maxim about gift horses? One thing I would say is that if you've been using a mineral oil (Which is rubbish tbh) and you go for a synth oil you could find that your car starts to burn oil because the new oil has such a good additive package it could disolve the carbon diposits off the oil control rings. But after a while it should right itself as your car has only done 33k...I would consider an engine flush like Forte, but that is a personal view as others believe that its not worth it. Actually the oil I described using as “mineral” was in fact semi-synthetic, so probably better. Though as somebody wisely pointed out on this forum a while back you cannot be sure of the amount of ‘semi-ness’. Would you expect the action you describe to still be possible, then? EDIT... I've just read that you state that your car is C2 spec. But I wouldn't have a problem using C3 spec on a C2 as there isn't a lot of difference between the two, especially if you've been using a mineral base oil... I never said that my car was C2 spec. I just made the point that the Carlube website describes their C2 product as suitable for Toyotas as it is too for Citroens, Peugeots and Renaults. Perhaps this mentioned in the Owners’ Manual? I will dig it out. @Geoff Peace API.SM is a top grade oil, many manufacturers still specify SL even SJ. Why it is so cheap is a mystery! perhaps a loss leader I do not know! I agree that the pricing is perplexing, hence my original doubt. Thanks for your comments, chaps
  24. My Yaris is 1.0 litre 2002 and has still yet to reach 33,000 miles and I cover less than three thousand miles per annum. Because this vehicle only gets the occasional long journey I make a point of changing the oil and filter twice a year. I use a Comma Oil 5w30 (mineral – but not currently able to provide precise details of its appellation) which I have always managed to get a decent price. Recently I saw a 4 litre container of Carlube Triple R Fully Synthetic 5w30 reduced from £17.49 to £10.49. Curiously it was being sold alongside a 1litre container of the same at £10.99 as well as a 4 litre container of Carlube Triple R Semi Synthetic 10w40 at £29.99. This seemed astonishingly good value and substantially cheaper than the Comma oil, so I snapped one up. Having made the purchase I find myself a little concerned as to its quality, though hopefully this is unfounded. There are further details on the container: API SM (Petrol engines) API CF (Diesel engines) ACEA C3 low SAPS low So I browsed the Carlube website . The first eight types are all 5w30 FS oils with a specific detail: C1, C2, C3, C4, GM, Ford, VW and HD. They are available in either 1 litre or 5 litre containers whereas mine is 4 litre. Visually my purchase looks most like the C1 or C4 but only gives the “C3” detail on the back of the container. The C3 link shows that it is intended for BMWs and MBs. The only difference that I can see is that the API is SN, not SM. So perhaps my stuff is of a now deleted spec. Sorry if all this all seems a bit tedious but can anyone see any reason for not using this oil? By the way, it is the C2 that is specified for Toyotas. Thanks in advance for any advice. ;)