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Everything posted by branney

  1. Afraid I don't have a diagram for your model, but check All the fuses, on the later model there are 2 separate ones for the windows according to the book. Blimey, looks like blackpool tower !! Think I would stick with the original fusing. How do they compare for brighness with the 21w brake lights, any real difference or could it cause confusion for folk behind ? you know, you were right. it was the lock-out all along! i have not used it since i discovered what it did about 6 years ago, and i assumed it only locked out the passenger controls not mine! an example of jumping to conclusions based on coincidences.. the LED bulbs are not as bright. i reckon i will have to clean the lights more often than normal this winter! i had an idea of combining old and new. if someone comes round a left hand bend and i have stopped in emergency they will see right bulb first, so it should be the brightest (std bulb). on a right hand bend they would see me sooner than a left. having one LED on the left would still make people react quicker to my braking. or do you think that could cause confusion? surely, it could make people pay more attention to me!?
  2. all i did was replace the bulbs in the rear lighting housings. there is a green light which lights up on both driver's door switches. only one of them is now lit. i assume it is not the lockout, as i can't make the window move with either the passenger window switch in the passenger door, or the passenger window switch in the driver's door. i will check again just in case! many thanks for this info. just what i need! these are the bulbs, by the way (cheap and cheerful!) :- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-360-degree-36-LED-1157-LIGHT-BULB-380-BAY-15D-5W-NEW-/110612643150?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c106fd4e
  3. 1990 Corolla GTi Just replaced rear/brake lights with LED bulbs. 2 days later my electric passenger window no longer works. This is the first time I have had any electrical fault, so is it just coincidence? The bulbs are both still working, however... One theory I had was if the bulbs have a lower resistance, they will draw more current. Can I resolve this easily and cheaply? Could this be dangerous to my 21 year old wiring, eg. a fire risk? Is it likely to cause fuses to blow? If so, would it only be the lighting fuses, or potentially other ones such as the window motor? Does anyone know what other electical items would be on the same circuit as these lights?
  4. Looking for this part - believe it can come from either AE92 or EE90. I went on 1stchoice.co.uk, and the first quote of £23 ended up being the wrong part. the second quote of £27, the guy only ended up having the passenger side. the third quote is £33 and i am going to phone tomorrow, but if I am out of luck again, can anyone direct me? Or does anyone here have a second car which they keep off the road for parts, and be willing to let me buy this for nearer the first two quoted prices?
  5. ok, that link describes it as a Hex Socket, and i can see the hexagonal bit pictured. is the hex bit the bit which goes over the nut? the bit to go on my tool has to be square!? (maybe they all are, but i just wanted to be sure since i don't see a square bit in the picture) thanks everyone! and we did get it tight enough for a handbrake turn in the dry last year, so here's hoping..
  6. looking on ebay, i am seeing sockets 10mm deep with different sizes of drive on them. http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?rt=nc&LH_BIN=1&_nkw=10mm+deep+socket&_sc=1&_sop=15&_trksid=p3286.c0.m301 do you mean i need a 10mm drive? the click-wrench thing i have has a square head, which i measure as 12mm, and the socket which is on it has a square hole, which i measure as 13mm. am i looking for a deep socket with 10mm drive and 12.5mm square connector? if so, what depth do i need? sorry, i am not au fait with the terminology, but i want/need to learn!
  7. thanks eddie and dawesy. ok, so "deep socket" is what it is called! i didn't know the name for it. and 10mm is what i want - sorted :)
  8. thanks cD4D. dont have axle stands though. :( someone tightened the handbrake for me before at an autotest, with just a simple spanner. at the next one i went to, he wasn't there, and i couldn't get one to fit. so i know it can definitely be done!
  9. Hi, I checked my Haynes manual and it recommends to remove the front seats and the rear centre console. However, i can see a bolt from above without removing anything. I can't get a spanner in properly to tighten it - just enough to see that the bolt is pretty loose. I am a novice, but I am sure my dad used to have spanner/socket type things which were at an angle, which would be able to get in without removing everything. Before I go to the shop to buy one, can anyone tell me the size I need to buy (in inches and/or mm please)?
  10. actually, i have a non-tvis from August 1990 with "Toyota" written on the front still! the only way to be sure is to check the colour of the engine top-block.
  11. Top power on the non-TVis is anything from 129bhp to 138bhp, depending where you look. The most reliable info I could find said 134bhp. That might have been on Japanese petrol, and perhaps 129bhp is just the same engine running on UK petrol. Based on top speeds of other cars with similar power, I predicted between 125mph and 128mph. On mine, I saw 130 repeatable and 134 once. My speedo is about 6% out based on other tests I have done. Based on kerb weight of 1025kg, letstorquebhp.com predicts a 0-60 of 7.99s for 134bhp or 8.27s for 129bhp. 0-62mph (ie 0-100kph) would be around 0.3s slower
  12. turns out they had not kept it. in fact i usually put the cap in the slit between the roof and the tailgate, so it probably landed on a corner somewhere. anyway, found a plastic one which claims to pass the MoT (with patented locking mechanism) in ESSO for £3.99, so not too bad...
  13. parkers is showing the 1.4 as 95-97bhp (depending on year) and the 1.6 as 109-110bhp. remembering that drag increases with a squared relationship to top speed, best case scanario is 7.6% more top speed (assuming the same gearing). you would therefore be able to see 137mph tops on the dial, on a good day on the same track as rez89. so, since toyota has the advertised top speeds varying by only 2.6%, they either use different gearboxes, or toyota is massaging the figures for insurance/environmental/image reasons
  14. nah, it's red with everything standard (except the petrol cap now!) Alright. I only asked because I saw another GTI with exhaust and it jumped out of 5th gear when I was buying mine. I have to say that the old Toyota's jump out of gears alot. Is it just GTI's do you think or is it all old Toyotas? It just seems to be pretty common. :) well i bought a 1.3 GL with 96,000 on the clock. i owned it over 2 years and it ended up jumping out of 5th, gradually getting worse until i had to sit with my knee holding the stick forward if i was on the motorway! i bought my GTi with 106,000 and it was fine until about 128,000 but now is starting to do it can anyone advise what needs replaced, eg one gear, whole gearbox, gear selector or what?
  15. i just worked out that for that extra 5mph it is equivalent to having an extra 9bhp - if your K&N gives you 10% more power than before (which was 94 or 95 bhp right?), then you can expect top end to go up by 5mph
  16. yeah, lucky it is winter, eh? well no noticable change in level over 1 night - i have stuffed a rag in it for now. i didn't realise petrol stations sell them - got a quote of £5.75 plus P&P online!
  17. nah, it's red with everything standard (except the petrol cap now!)
  18. i was so busy trying to work out how to get a receipt on one of those "pay at the pump" things that i drove off without my cap. does this mean my petrol will all evaporate away? is there anywhere i can get a cheap "push-in style" plastic replacement (doesnt have to lock) without having to pay over the odds to get a model-specific cap? no point paying a lot as may not be keeping the car long (1990 and now jumps out of 5th gear)
  19. i drove a 1.1 Fiesta hire car in the 1990's, but they gave me the 1.25 16v by accident - that is supposed to have 73bhp, but i had it showing 120 on the clock - fiesta's were meant to have some of the worst error factors - a mate told me as much as 13% in some cases! my corolla speedo is about 6% out, so if yours is similar then that means you hit just over 120 when it was reading 128. so with a slight tailwind i don't doubt you. but i am not sure about pumping the accelerator - is that technique not only for carburattor cars, or does it fool the ECU to over-rich the mix?
  20. someone smashed the window in the driver's door of my corolla gti. would glass from a non-electric-window EE90 1.3l hatchback fit? anyone direct me where to get this?
  21. anyone know where i can get the above? i checked ebay and the local japanese-part specialist and no joy. i am in glasgow. would glass from a non-electric-window EE90 1.3l hatchback fit my AE92 1.6l hatchback with electric windows?
  22. hi - what about the yokohama c.drive? it is only £34.80 on mytyres.co.uk or are you referring to a more expensive range?
  23. yeah that site is amazing! i just found it yesterday, and that is where i got those prices from. i looked at all the average ratings for dry and wet grip (but filtered out those that had less than 40 reviews) the only thing is, the reviews are for all sizes of the same tyre on all sorts of cars - i wondered if anyone had recommendations for this particular size on this particular car? cheers
  24. they are just the 14" ones. is it motor factors for bead sealant, or would they sell it at the motoring section of eg. asda (open later during the week)? thanks for the help
  25. 2 of my alloys allow some air to escape. these are original GTi alloys from 1990. new tyres (with new valves) didn't make a difference and i was told it was caused by corrosion/slight bubbling, meaning the tyre does not fit so tightly. it takes around 2 weeks for half of the air to escape, so i have been living with pumping air in weekly for the last 2 years! i was told i could get them sandblasted, but it would be cheaper to put something round the rims to seal them. does anyone know what i should ask for and where i should go to buy such a product? or can anyone recommend somewhere cheap in scotland for the sandblasting? (is £40 per wheel ok?)
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