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  1. gecko

    Engine Dies

    with the 5sfe or 3sfe engine...depending on the year.....i hope you all are putting TOYOTA secondary ignition parts on the car. the reason being in the toyota distributor caps there is a resistor between the rotor button and the connection for the coil wire. if it isn't there the coil will fail eventually and then you'll have to pay for a new coil and cap. the vsv valve and modulator for the egr system are common failures on the old 4 cyl camry's. it is rare that it is the valve itself that is the actual problem although it does happen. a quick test you can do....if the car feels like it is going to to stall when coming to a stop. using a hammer tap/hit the egr valve and see if the engine idle returns to normal (smoothes out goes to about 800 rpms). if the check engine light comes on jumper TE1 and E1 in the underhood diagnosis port if obd1 though some obd2 cars still have this. then count the flashes of the light and that is your code then reference it with a repair manual. a possible cause for a "stalling or poor running" during warm up is a bad coolant temp sensor. be careful when you have the fuel filter changed. toyota fuel lines have a bad habit of seizing up at the connection for the fuel filter. if that happens you have to buy the line that runs from the fuel filter...just below and behind the air cleaner housing all the way back to the tank.
  2. the only way to know for sure is to have the front valve cover removed. they shouldn't charge you more than a half hour to do it, and it really only takes about 2 minutes. ceglinton it sounds like you might be in a bit of trouble though. there are a couple things that you can do yourself as an initial check. look at the underside of the oil filler cap. some sludged engines will have a heavy buildup on the bottom of the cap. remove the dipstick and look at it for darkish brown varnish buildup. remove the pcv valve from the bank 1 valve cover (the vale cover near the firewall). the pcv valve can be seen just under the upper plenum if you are looking at it from the right strut tower. the valve itself will be black or grey and it just pulls upward. look at the bottom of the valve. if it has a heavy sludge buildup on it or it does not make any noise when you shake it the engine is probably sludged. sludged cars will usually also blow blue smoke on a cold start. cold start meaning after sitting all night. unfortunately if your engine is sludged your best bet would be to get a junkyard engine (500-1000 dollars and about 500-1000 in labor to have it installed). the reason i don't suggest an attempted rebuild is that a dealer would charge you about 15-20 hours to remove the heads completely disassemble and clean them and install new valve seals, inspection of the cylinder bores for vertical scratches, removal of the sub oil pan for cleaning of the pan and replacement of the oil pump strainer. now that sounds all fine and dandy and that you would have a nearly new engine after all that. but if there are vertical scratches in the cylinders you would need a short block since the 1MZ engines cannot be bored and it is recommended by toyota that they only be replaced. so basically it comes down to how lucky you feel. but that would be a pretty expensive gamble.
  3. ok guys. you know that you can probably fix the problem with the tire pressure light yourself. set the tire pressure to the pressure on the door jamb of the driver's door, should be 32 for the 04 solara's and also set the spare to the correct pressure for it 32 for a full size spare and i think its 60 for a donut. then hold the reset button for the tire pressure system until the indicator light blinks 3 times. the left pull thing is shared between the camry, solara and the avalon. one thing that will help you ..... a calm attitude. threatening to sue is not going to get you instant succes. understand that the technicians aren't excited to do warranty work....much less for something that is covered in your owner's manuals. *hint the tire pressure warning system is covered in your owner's manuals for those of you who bother to read it* but bottom line...be patient. they want to fix your car so that you'll be happy and come back to them. so just relax and let them do their job.
  4. take it to the dealer and have them program it. you need toyotas scanner in order to program the keyless entry stuff. also the avalon needs to have the keyless ecm and the associated sensors and stuff
  5. the sensor in the tranny....do you mean the park neutral switch. if not test it.
  6. gecko


    it has to be reset with a scanner. take it back to the dealer.
  7. basically your engine never reaches proper operating temp. so it doesn't run as efficiently as it could. i'll go ahead and state the obvious here...a warm engine runs more efficiently than a cool engine.
  8. yep you need toyotas scanner to program any keyless entry stuff. the dealer will do it for free or cheap. depends on whether you have any other work done there.
  9. many seqouias and 4runners have this problem. replacement is usual.
  10. at just over 30K just drain and refill. on the bottom of the rad there is a spout with a white screw in cap. back it off until the coolant starts to drain out. once its done tighten it back up and fill with 50/50 through the rad cap.
  11. it is driveline bind. almost every toyota truck will experience it at one point in its lifetime. on some it just goes away, others it never goes away.
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