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  1. As suggested by other forum users, a blocked EGR valve will turn these lights on. Give it a good clean out yourself before spending any money, may solve your problem. Check for previous posting for cleaning EGR valve, someone put a posting on forum of a step by step guide to cleaning valve with pictures. Regards, Beagh.
  2. To Marco Polo. Handbrake cables can stick. When you return for NCT, make a little note on your fail sheet, that you would like the handbrake tested on single wheel mode. Tester will know what this is. Regards, Beagh.
  3. Number nineteen (19) is a flashcode, just an earlier way/ptotocal to read of fault codes. It denotes a problem with your throttle position sensor, wiring circuit or ECM. Regards, Beagh.
  4. No. They come with projector lights as standard, fitted with H7 halogen bulbs. If you see one on the road with a slight blue tinge to the front lights, it more than likely has had an aftermarket HID kit fitted. Regards, Beagh.
  5. To Roxton. Apologies. To remove EGR valve, remove airbox and you will see valve bolted to rear of cylinder (opposite side to cambelt) head via 2 nuts & a bolt. Also has two small bore water pipes connected to each side of unit. Upon removing pipes, shove a screwdriver into each hose to stop any water loss. Regards, Beagh.
  6. To Roxton. As suggested above, cleaning your EGR valve will do no harm atall. Just wondering when you had this problem,did you have the the following effects, no engine warning light on & engine did not want to rev for a while, perhaps sticking around 2/2500rpm ? If so, may well be your EGR valve which is electronically controlled. Regards, Beagh.
  7. To Palmerino. Getting a bit confused st my end, the black box you describe is not your ECM ie: engine control module, this is a metal bodied unit fitted behind your glovebox, looks like a computer hard drive, this unit cannot be cleared of fault codes by removing fuses (can be done on MK1 Avensis) even after removing fuse, codes are still stored in the ECM memory. Just to clarify, looking into your engine bay from the front of your car, your EGR valve is bolted to the rear right hand side of your cylinder head & is not connected to your inlet manifold. Technically you vehicle is not fitted with a throttle body as such, but the unit you are describing is attached to the inlet manifold at the front right of your engine. It has a switch on it called a potentiometer, toyota (denso part) will have another name for it. But if they have produced an error code for it, hopefully you are on the way to locating your problem. Good luck, Beagh. PS: It would appear that your mechanic has reset you injector paramaters to the vehicle ECM, quite simply so they can talk to each other. Keep us posted as to how you get on.
  8. To Avensis T22. You seem to have started two strings to this one question. Once you have the bottom pulley removed, you will clearly see the crankshaft timing mark & you cannot miss the camshaft mark. I can only go on what the Autodata boook says in relation to your car being interference or non interference. That's besides the point, once you have the new belt fitted, turn the engine by hand 2 full revolutions to check alignment marks. If the engine marks line up & nothing has touched, your ready to go. They really are very simlple to align. Good luck, Beagh.
  9. To Avensis T22. This is an odd one, (your engine is an interference engine)as your engine as only crank/cam timing marks. Although it has a number of c/shaft timing marks ie: on the pulley itself & when you remove the pulley you will see another mark on bottom c/shaft pulley drive gear which is locked to crank via woodruff key, i think once you remove bottom pulley, it will become quite clear to you. These are pretty straight forward to time, just as an extra precaution, remove plugs & make sure number 1 cyl is on compression stroke before removing old belt assembly. Regards, Beagh.
  10. This code usually denotes air/mixture control fault. Whoever read off your error code should be able with diagnostics equipment to be more precise than just a code. Its possible that your MAF sensor, mass air flow sensor could be at fault, located on top of your induction piping next to your air filter box. Make sure you check the basics first before allowing anybody to empty your wallet via guessing. Check all your induction piping for splits or collapsing under load, aswell as your air and fuel filters for condition ie: when wheir they last changed. Hope this starts the ball rolling for you. Most of the above are simple basic things you can check yourself before paying out money to the experts. Rule of KISS. Regards, Beagh.
  11. To Palmerino. Sorry for your troubles. Just read quickly through your postings & replies. You have a new/exchange engine fitted to car folowing engine letting go ? Has your recently fitted engine got a brand new EGR valve ? Also, i was under the impression that your injectors etc etc wheir encyrpted with a long code number on the top of each injector which would have to be re-programmed to the cars ECM behind glovebox. Did you not obtain the ECM unit from the car you got doner engine from. I had to have a brand new ECM fitted to my car after a month of use, fortunately covered by warranty. As stated by Parts-King, a rare fault, but it does happen. PM me if you like, if i can help, i will do my best. Regards, Beagh.
  12. To Kryten. Only difference between your lights and the original toyoto lights is the incredible price differnce & i believe their maybe a metal disc fitted to toyota headlamp unit where bulbs (may stand corrected) fit into headlamp units. I have gone the HID route & have fitted a 35w 5000k bulb kit to my car which gives off a pure white light. Have had them set-up perfectly on top-quality beam setter with a very slight off-set to the left. Completely transformed lighting of the car. Please no lectures on legality of these kits, i live in the ***** end of nowhere with no street lighting of any description. If i lived in a big city/town, i wouldn't have taken this route. Regards, Beagh.
  13. To gasbev. Castrol oil is top quality, especially Edge, Magnatex etc etc. But the GREED has set in, as you are aware all their top end oils have been converted to 4 litre containers instead of 5 for quite sometime now. I think good old GTX is still sold as a 5 Litre bottle. You could try Mobil oil, just as good. But as "Jamesbelfast" points out you can be in the right place at the right time. You will just have to hunt around. Just don't put crap non-brand oil into your engine no matter what is suggested on this forum. If you have a good car put the best oil in you can afford & order your service parts through Parts-KIng official toyota dealer. All parts discounted if a member of this forum. Regards, Beagh.
  14. To sanghyo. We have two family cars purchased from Jemca NW9 under the old Japanese management, they wheir Toyota/Lexus at the time,they couldn't do enough for you. Now they are under new management or i should say they have been for some time, just sell Toyota (reason unknown) now, had a mjor problem with them some years back. Very simple, take your business elsewhere. Do a dealer search for Watford/Rickmansworth area, a very good Toyota dealer should come up.They do a proper service, not just spraying white greese on your hinges & not putting air in your tyres like above dealer. Regards, Beagh.
  15. To jtmk. Try having local garage weld a 17mm nut to it & buzz it off with an air gun. Regards, Beagh.
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