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Everything posted by Beagh1958

  1. As suggested by other forum users, a blocked EGR valve will turn these lights on. Give it a good clean out yourself before spending any money, may solve your problem. Check for previous posting for cleaning EGR valve, someone put a posting on forum of a step by step guide to cleaning valve with pictures. Regards, Beagh.
  2. To Marco Polo. Handbrake cables can stick. When you return for NCT, make a little note on your fail sheet, that you would like the handbrake tested on single wheel mode. Tester will know what this is. Regards, Beagh.
  3. Number nineteen (19) is a flashcode, just an earlier way/ptotocal to read of fault codes. It denotes a problem with your throttle position sensor, wiring circuit or ECM. Regards, Beagh.
  4. No. They come with projector lights as standard, fitted with H7 halogen bulbs. If you see one on the road with a slight blue tinge to the front lights, it more than likely has had an aftermarket HID kit fitted. Regards, Beagh.
  5. To Roxton. Apologies. To remove EGR valve, remove airbox and you will see valve bolted to rear of cylinder (opposite side to cambelt) head via 2 nuts & a bolt. Also has two small bore water pipes connected to each side of unit. Upon removing pipes, shove a screwdriver into each hose to stop any water loss. Regards, Beagh.
  6. To Roxton. As suggested above, cleaning your EGR valve will do no harm atall. Just wondering when you had this problem,did you have the the following effects, no engine warning light on & engine did not want to rev for a while, perhaps sticking around 2/2500rpm ? If so, may well be your EGR valve which is electronically controlled. Regards, Beagh.
  7. To Palmerino. Getting a bit confused st my end, the black box you describe is not your ECM ie: engine control module, this is a metal bodied unit fitted behind your glovebox, looks like a computer hard drive, this unit cannot be cleared of fault codes by removing fuses (can be done on MK1 Avensis) even after removing fuse, codes are still stored in the ECM memory. Just to clarify, looking into your engine bay from the front of your car, your EGR valve is bolted to the rear right hand side of your cylinder head & is not connected to your inlet manifold. Technically you vehicle is not fitted with a throttle body as such, but the unit you are describing is attached to the inlet manifold at the front right of your engine. It has a switch on it called a potentiometer, toyota (denso part) will have another name for it. But if they have produced an error code for it, hopefully you are on the way to locating your problem. Good luck, Beagh. PS: It would appear that your mechanic has reset you injector paramaters to the vehicle ECM, quite simply so they can talk to each other. Keep us posted as to how you get on.
  8. To Avensis T22. You seem to have started two strings to this one question. Once you have the bottom pulley removed, you will clearly see the crankshaft timing mark & you cannot miss the camshaft mark. I can only go on what the Autodata boook says in relation to your car being interference or non interference. That's besides the point, once you have the new belt fitted, turn the engine by hand 2 full revolutions to check alignment marks. If the engine marks line up & nothing has touched, your ready to go. They really are very simlple to align. Good luck, Beagh.
  9. To Avensis T22. This is an odd one, (your engine is an interference engine)as your engine as only crank/cam timing marks. Although it has a number of c/shaft timing marks ie: on the pulley itself & when you remove the pulley you will see another mark on bottom c/shaft pulley drive gear which is locked to crank via woodruff key, i think once you remove bottom pulley, it will become quite clear to you. These are pretty straight forward to time, just as an extra precaution, remove plugs & make sure number 1 cyl is on compression stroke before removing old belt assembly. Regards, Beagh.
  10. This code usually denotes air/mixture control fault. Whoever read off your error code should be able with diagnostics equipment to be more precise than just a code. Its possible that your MAF sensor, mass air flow sensor could be at fault, located on top of your induction piping next to your air filter box. Make sure you check the basics first before allowing anybody to empty your wallet via guessing. Check all your induction piping for splits or collapsing under load, aswell as your air and fuel filters for condition ie: when wheir they last changed. Hope this starts the ball rolling for you. Most of the above are simple basic things you can check yourself before paying out money to the experts. Rule of KISS. Regards, Beagh.
  11. To Palmerino. Sorry for your troubles. Just read quickly through your postings & replies. You have a new/exchange engine fitted to car folowing engine letting go ? Has your recently fitted engine got a brand new EGR valve ? Also, i was under the impression that your injectors etc etc wheir encyrpted with a long code number on the top of each injector which would have to be re-programmed to the cars ECM behind glovebox. Did you not obtain the ECM unit from the car you got doner engine from. I had to have a brand new ECM fitted to my car after a month of use, fortunately covered by warranty. As stated by Parts-King, a rare fault, but it does happen. PM me if you like, if i can help, i will do my best. Regards, Beagh.
  12. To Kryten. Only difference between your lights and the original toyoto lights is the incredible price differnce & i believe their maybe a metal disc fitted to toyota headlamp unit where bulbs (may stand corrected) fit into headlamp units. I have gone the HID route & have fitted a 35w 5000k bulb kit to my car which gives off a pure white light. Have had them set-up perfectly on top-quality beam setter with a very slight off-set to the left. Completely transformed lighting of the car. Please no lectures on legality of these kits, i live in the ***** end of nowhere with no street lighting of any description. If i lived in a big city/town, i wouldn't have taken this route. Regards, Beagh.
  13. To gasbev. Castrol oil is top quality, especially Edge, Magnatex etc etc. But the GREED has set in, as you are aware all their top end oils have been converted to 4 litre containers instead of 5 for quite sometime now. I think good old GTX is still sold as a 5 Litre bottle. You could try Mobil oil, just as good. But as "Jamesbelfast" points out you can be in the right place at the right time. You will just have to hunt around. Just don't put crap non-brand oil into your engine no matter what is suggested on this forum. If you have a good car put the best oil in you can afford & order your service parts through Parts-KIng official toyota dealer. All parts discounted if a member of this forum. Regards, Beagh.
  14. To sanghyo. We have two family cars purchased from Jemca NW9 under the old Japanese management, they wheir Toyota/Lexus at the time,they couldn't do enough for you. Now they are under new management or i should say they have been for some time, just sell Toyota (reason unknown) now, had a mjor problem with them some years back. Very simple, take your business elsewhere. Do a dealer search for Watford/Rickmansworth area, a very good Toyota dealer should come up.They do a proper service, not just spraying white greese on your hinges & not putting air in your tyres like above dealer. Regards, Beagh.
  15. To jtmk. Try having local garage weld a 17mm nut to it & buzz it off with an air gun. Regards, Beagh.
  16. To Fluffmeister. Sorry. Thank you for reply, these are not over rated bulbs , as they do not dazzle on-coming traffic but just give off a clear white light. Thank you for reply all the same. Regards, Beagh.
  17. Thank you for the replies. In particular, Rossy. Rossy, you may recall i posted a question more than a year ago in regards to complete crap dipped beams & you put me onto HIDS4U.co.uk. I purchased a kit & completely transformed the lights. These fog lights that i see around the place are certainly not HID lights as they switch on straight away & do not have that few seconds delay whilst ballast units bring bulbs up to temperture. That's why i was wondering if they had a resistor of some description built into system. Thank's for your replies all the same. I think a call to Parts-King may clear matters up. Regards, Beagh.
  18. To any interested parties. I have recently purchased a genuine toyota fog light kit from Parts-King (Top Man) pretty much plug & play. As car did not come with these lights specced for some reason from new (MK2 D4D 2003 T3s) has transformed lighting, live in the sticks, no street lighting atall. But i have started to notice a lot of other MK2/MK3 face lift models ie: 03-04-05 old & 06 face lift shape cars giving of a pure white light rather than a dull yellow light like mine. Do the original factory specced kits have some built in resistor in the system or just a different bulb, mine has H11 bulbs. With respect, don't turn this into an all avensis lights are rubbish debate. Any advice much appreciated. Regards, Beagh.
  19. Beagh1958


    To Mops1. You don't give your milage. I'm not a big fan of additives, but i would go along with T-spiritpete on this one, Forte getting good write ups. Beg to differ with modern injected engines not choking with carbon build up, this is a natural produce of the 4-stroke engine cycle. I pull heads all the time that are full of carbon. The simple reason for not doing de-cokes anymore is you spend more time removing all the ancillary parts & sound proofing covers than it then takes to remove cyl/heads. The days of easy access cross flow engines are long gone. Or maybe it's where i live, the fuel is pure crap. Regards, Beagh.
  20. To barlos1973. As suggested by other postings, most certainly clean your EGR valve first before following any other routes. But remember your EGR valve is electronically operated, so in a worst case scenario you may have to purchase a new unit. Any local quality garage should be able to read off any error codes if their are any stored, if not, then i would be surprised if your fault lay elsewhere. Should you be really unlucky and require a new turbo (which i doubt) try BTN TURBO via www.btnturbo.com, they are one of the largest importers of turbos into the UK & they currently have a free DVD covering all aspects of how turbos work. Also includes a full listing of just about any turbo you require & location of turbo serial number & brand for your car. Regards, Beagh.
  21. To Tubaman. Clean your EGR valve, it's free to do & you don't have to charge yourself. As i suggested, i have had this problem many times & it has always cleared the fault. Regards, Beagh.
  22. To Tubaman. Clean your EGR valve as suggested by previous posting before spending any money. Sits on top of the engine, have had this problem on a few ocassions & all lights once cleared should hopefully stay off. Don't ask me how this fault can turn these warning lights on, but they do. Regards, Beagh.
  23. To The Cav. I have a U581 version, which i keep in the boot of the car. I believe both models have been deleted for newer versions. I would give them 90% out of 100, they have a very good back up network with a forum for sharing info & a facility to upload latest data to keep them up to date. Just one gripe, they most certainly do not detect protocal (Canbus) on all makes as suggested on box, VAUXHALL being a problem, i have never found a Vauxhall jet that code reader will talk to. But they are not top end diagnostics equipment, so you cannot have everything from lower end models. But i would certainly recommend them. Regards, Beagh. PS: go to www.talktomycar.co.uk for more info.
  24. Absolute bull. Take your car away from this garage & employ someone else to carry out repairs, both parts can be purchased from any major motor factor. Try www.japarts.co.uk Regards, Beagh.
  25. As suggested above, the two boxes are different. It no longer seems to be the norm to change your gear box oil as part of your annual service (BMW being the only one left to my knowledge, may stand corrected) what with long life servicing allowing these problems to arise. I take it you have checked the clutch release bearing. Regards, Beagh.
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