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Everything posted by JohnYossarian

  1. Hi All, Yesterday I had my car serviced at Toyota for £ 192 including valet service. It happened that after I called them and was quoted almost £ 400 price for 100k service they got back to me and explained that I had been wrongly quoted as it is the cars with Reg from 2004 onwards that need the long life coolant. I still struggle to see the point of putting a coolant for £ 150 in a car that has made 100k miles, but there must be rational for that. Cheers, Jordan
  2. Thank you guys! I will have a look, there is another dealer nearby I simply was used to this dealership. I will also check with Autodata what exactly 100 k service includes. Cheers, Jordan
  3. Hello All, My Totoyta Avensis is due for its 100k service and I was rather surprised when the other day after calling Mr. T I was told it should be £ 386. I have never had anything more than £ 220 by far and I find the increase a bit steep. When I asked why (the cambelt change is due at 120k service) I was told that it is the cooling liquid on top of everything, but come on, a cooling liquid replacement cannot explain almost £ 400. I resorted to a local garage and the guy gave me £130 + VAT quotation. It is no brainer what I am going to choose but still very surprised by what I was quoted at Toyota. So far all my services have been with them. I will appreciate your opinion whether I was quoted properly at Toyota. I might have missed something? Cheers, Jordan
  4. Happy New Year everyone! I simply would like to tell you the end (touching wood at the moment :)) of the story. I took the car to Toyota (once again great service, called them at 10 am had the car looked at at 11:30 am) and only mentioned the oil leak. 10 minutes later the guy came back explaining that the screw for emptying the gear box had been loose which had been the reason for the leak. They topped up the oil, tightened the screw and off I went. I was dreading the seal replacement especially after having looked at Autodata repair timings. The quoted work for replacement of input drive shaft oil seal was about 8 hours. All in all, things like that make Toyota great to be part of. Great service and very quick too. :thumbsup: Once again, I have to apologise to the Kwik Fit guys! They did their job and did not cause the leak, although next time when I change my oil I will be checking the oil level immediately after that :) Cheers, Jordan
  5. Hi James, I stand corrected with regard to Kwik Fit guys! Thank you for the head ups concerning the leak from the gear box. I hope it is the seal you talk about and tomorrow I will visit my local Toyota for their advice/help. Cheers, Jordan
  6. Hi Guys, Thank you so much for your quick replies! I took the car to Qwik Fit (the guy I usually talk to is a very reasonable chap) and they had a look. It turned out the gear box oil was leaking out. It is such an unfortunate coincidence, recent oil change/overfill and the leak. They let me have a look and recommended a place where they do gear boxes. Tomorrow I will take the car to Mr. T for their opinion but I seem to remember that opening the gear box means a lot of work, almost the same as for a clutch change (please, tell me I am wrong) and I am just pre-calculating the cost of the leak. Can anyone guess what could have gone wrong with the gear box for it to leak? Cheers, Jordan
  7. Hello All, Merry Christmas! I am afraid the topic of my post is not that festive. A month ago I went to Kwik Fit for an oil change (I keep replacing the oil at every 5000 miles between services). I have done this before and no problem, they would usually leave a few millimeters above the top mark on the dip stick but this is what I get at Toyota garage as well. This was the main reason for not checking it immediately after the oil change. I made almost 500 miles and checked the level and to my dismay I discovered that the oil was higher than the top mark by 1 cm. I immediately took the car back to the garage and asked them to reduce the level. They did something and I left, but on the next day after the oil had settled I discovered that it was still too high so I took it back to the garage. I was left with about 4 mm higher than the top mark. Yesterday, after the temperatures went up a bit I found a leakage beneath the car, something that has NEVER happened before and I was furious as the car never burnt any oil let alone leaking. I am asking for your advice, should I take it with Qwik Fit and get the gasket that was blown as a result of the overfill replaced or should I get the car investigated at Toyota and have their verdict for it? I have no idea what gasket has gone but even though it is a few drops overnight, I do not fancy driving a car with oil leakage, however small. I would expect that the leakage would increase as soon as the temperatures go up. Thank you in advance for your help! Cheers, Jordan
  8. Dear Moderator, Can you please remove this post as I have managed to double it? Thanks! Jordan
  9. Hi, I have just had my air-conditioning compressor replaced. It was causing terrible noise from under the bonnet and initially I was thinking that it were the injectors failing. It turned out to be the compressor but in fiscal terms it really was expensive. I hope yours is due to something cheaper :) but more knowledgeable Toyota forumers can direct you. Cheers.
  10. Can anyone explain something to me that I do not get? (too thick may be?) I was told that it is my AC compressor at fault and I assume that when the AC is ON it should be worse. I was very surprised when I turned the AC ON and the noise disappeared immediately. I switched the AC OFF again and the noise was back. I repeated this procedure several times and every time the result was the same: AC ON - no noise; AC OFF - the noise comes back. Am I right when thinking that it is the pulley's bearing that is likely to be the culprit? Please, let me know what you think as I have arranged a visit to the garage tomorrow for the compressor to be replaced. I am going to question the diagnostics though. Thanks in advance! Jordan The replacement was done this morning, £ 940 less money wise. No noise anymore. They explained my previous question that it is normal for the noise to disappear when the AC is ON. Hopefully this will stand for longer. So far after buying it second hand at 60 000 miles (86 000 miles at the moment) I have spent more than £ 3500 on repairs over 2.5 years. I think it is too much, but it is obviously down to my luck. So much about Toyota bulletproof reliability. Cheers.
  11. The saga continues. Today I took the car to Mr. Toyota and after one hour diagnostics I was given one good and one bad news. The good one was that all my injectors are fine and do not need replacement. The bad however is pretty painful, the air-conditioning compressor is making the noise. I was quoted £ 1140 for compressor and labour. I asked for my discount and it went down to £ 940 but still painful amount. I have just read the thread on air-condition compressor and started wondering whether I do not have a problem with the pulley bearings rather than with the compressor itself. I will start using the air-conditioning on a regular basis although it is a bit late now. As mentioned before, when I go above 1000 rpm the noise disappears. Does that mean anything? I will appreciate your experience/advice. Cheers, Jordan
  12. Hi there, I remember some time ago there was a discussion about exactly the same issue. IIRC the thing you would need to remember is to change your driving style to prevent the transfer of torque that is taken care of when you have the DMFW in place. If you search around you will deifintely find it, it was in 2010. Good luck!
  13. Hi Chris, Thank you for your explanation! I am taking the car to them on Monday and fingers crossed that it could be something small-ish (although with my luck I do not believe it). The oil leak has not come back although I do not see it as "one off". The seal is either intact ot not. I still cannot explain how the plug's seal can influence the injectors and the most puzzling of all is that the ECU has not registered anything, as if the injectors are in specs. Cheers, Jordan
  14. Today I went to Mr. Toyota and the guy there told me that it is the injector(s) that is(are) at fault. In fiscal terms he was not able to give me a figure as they need to strip down the engine and decide what and how many injectors. One thing that I do not get is why the noise disappears as soon as the rpm of the car exceeds 900. It is only audible at idle. I was thinking that if I keep the RPM high enough, above 2000 rpm the injector could eventually clean up (or is this too naive an assumption?). Has anyone experienced anything like that? Can the injectors be simply cleaned? Thanks! Jordan
  15. Thanks Beagh!!! I had built this crazy theory that the oil somehow interfere with the el. current and it works with three cylinders only. Obviously one of the injector does not play it vital role at the moment. How dangerous is it to drive the car? I will take it to Toyota tomorrow morning and fingers crossed, it would not cost too much? Cheers, Jordan EDIT: I have been thinking that should the electrical multi plug to injector is not sealed properly the light on the dash board surely should have registered this but nothing happened.
  16. I have added a picture of the engine. The thing in the blue circle (I could do with some suggestions what the thing is) you can see some oil, which is not present at the rest three. My initial thought was that there must have been an oil leak as I cannot imagine where the oil would come from at this point. The oil filling inlet is further and it is unlikely that the oil is from the recent oil change.
  17. Dear All, I am starting to question the "bulletproof" Toyota reliability. My MOTs and Servicing are all done at authorised Toyota dealer and yet I keep coughing cash up for lots of things. The last straw (I am not sure whether this time is the camel's back, but it is getting very close) is a strange noise that comes from the engine once started. The engine starts normally and then 10-20 seconds later there are some coughing from, as it seems, engine compartment that very soon after its first appearance joins the typical diesel engine noise but this time as if a broken fan rotates at constant speed but hitting something everytime it makes a turn. I am sorry but I cannot explain better, not a native English speaker. I do not get any faults on the dashboard. The question(s) I have is whether it is dangerous to drive the car to the Toyota garage tomorrow first thing in the morning? What could be the possible reason for this noise? Has anyone encountered anything similar? I will see what happens this time but if it is another costly repair, this will be it. Thank you in advance! Jordan
  18. How do you use the Forte? Is it one off, or is it like the Miller, 50 ml to an almost full tank? Thanks!
  19. Hi Myko, I was not implying it was yours :)
  20. Myko, I doubt that his EGR is the same. As Toyotavensis mentions it is in a different place for the 1CD-FTV engines. He should follow the thread that Toyotavensis opened some time ago. I was having my MOT recently and eveything was fine except for the gas emission that came in the red zone. EGR valve was the culprit (I was informed) and I was asked for about £ 200 for cleaning. EGR valve according to Autodata takes 2.5 hours so if one is at Toyota dealership this easily makes it up to £ 200. I did not have the time to come back for another test and just signed the bill. I was beating myself fot being lazy and not having done it myself. Even now I can still see black smoke when I rev the engine from iddle and I am wondering whether it has been properly cleaned up. I have always driven the car with synthetic 0-30 oil and yet, it got clogged. How much did they ask you to cough up for their service?
  21. Thanks guys for all your replies! It was extremely useful to learn that the diesel pump should not be put under stress by driving at low tank level. I usually steer clear from driving with the tank less than 1/4 full. I have always had the feeling that this way I am increasing the risk of the injectors and any other part sensitive to fuel contaminations, getting blocked. I know that there is a fuel filter but it is better if you keep the system clean. @Thermal. Mine does 6 l/100 km and this is what I call "not that good" combined driving. This corresponds to 47 mpg. Cheers! Jordan
  22. Hello all, I have been thinking of posting on this topic for almost two years now. I have always filled the tank to the top. This way I can calculate the consumption far better than the on board computer. Last night the orange warning light popped up at 525 miles done and IIRC this usually means that I have about 40 miles left in the tank before I run dry. I went to the nearest Shell station and put 51.5 litres of diesel. As far as I know the Avensis (TX30 D4D 2.0) diesel tank is 60 l. Simple math tells me that I should have had almost 9 l left and yet the light went on. It has happened before. Can anyone enlighten me on whether the tank is somehow dirty (I cannot believe that I would have almost 5 l of dirt) or is it the sensor that does not register the amount of fuel left properly? The car is very close to what Toyota predicts in terms of consumption. Average combined is often in high 40 and low 50 mpg. Thanks!
  23. Hi Tom, so is yours a "D-CAT" d4d then? Pete. Hi Tom, Thank you for clarification. Mine is not D-CAT, it still manages "only" 116 bhp whilst yours should be at 125 bhp. I am waiting for better weather and have decided to take the plunge and clean it myself. The only problem is that on 1CD-FTV the EGR valve is not at the most convenient place to work on. I will post pictures if I manage. Cheers, Jordan
  24. Michelin all four (Energy type). £ 78 each fitted in front of my house.
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