Aurissimo

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About Aurissimo

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  • Toyota Model
    Auris 2.2 T180 D-Cat

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  1. When my EGR failed at 100k I got the limp home mode, the engine light on an no problem with driveability was the dpf... It might be the egr and this is only and hours labour ... Fingers cross... As for my AURIS , sold it at 182000 last month and still going strong and flying... But company car forced the sale.. I was up for running it till 250000 !!!
  2. RIGHT ! Happy Days... 2.5 weeks following the repair, and putting around 1500 miles, and no fault has come back. So I can categorically say the repair was successful. The repair consisted of; 1. Removing DPF - Admit this was a B@st@rd of a job, and required me and a mate with a ramp... and a good 7 hours work... (blame it on us being un-experienced...) 2. Sealed inlet and poured a bottle of this stuff. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Protec-Diesel-Particle-Filter-Flushing-Liquid-DPF-Cleaner-1L-TUV-Apvd-Saab-/130657336978?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item1e6bc8be92 3. Sealed both ends , and gave it a good shake and turn it up and down for an hour or so... 4. REVERSE FLUSHED the DPF with jet wash ( All the crud came out the INLET SIDE !) , then dried (Gas heater and Hair Drier job...) 5. Replaced old Differential pressure pipes 6. Removed EGR and Manifold and cleaned (Manifold was caked in Carbon! EGR had been cleaned by delaer during diagnosis...) 7. Refitted everything, Outcome? it FLIES!, difference is amazing, I thought my car was running fine before, but the difference it has made by cleaning up the manifold and DPF is unbelievable. The winter tyres I have fitted cannot keep up with the Torque of the engine... ! However fuel consumption has gone up... I think it is because it can breathe more easily, and so it has to re-learn the new engine running conditions... ( I am going to take it to Toyota and have a full reset and error code deletions carried out, to get it to reset to default engine running , and forget the old running conditions... ) - I think the DPF stuff I have been pouring into fuel did not help in this instance. As the #1 pipe was properly blocked. But NOW that is it all clean, and pipes unblocked, I think the DPF cleaner additive is a good idea to extend the life of this high mileage engine... - The differential pressure pipes where the reason for the error code, which Toyota recognise as a design flaw , as they have provided an improved design. (I poked a wire down the tube and could not unblock them easily... took a few "stabs") - 160k 80% of it on motorways, whilst the DPF will gradually fill with deposits etc... was not the root cause of the error (unlike what Mr Toyota Dealer tried to convince of... ) . So in a way it proves that DPF should not fail during the life of the vehicle, so long as it can regenerate at regular intervals..., unless you are a severe stop start, short journey type driver... - Not sure if this would work, but My EGR failed at 110k and DPF pipes at 160k so taking that relationship, whether you guys can use the same extrapolation for your mileage, e.g. if you had an EGR failed at 55k could you expect your error code P2002 to trigger around 80k ? something to consider , but i recognise it does not take into account driving styles, fuels, and other environment/usage variables... - From 100k it might be worth considering cleaning not only the EGR but the manifold to improve the Air flow. ( I reckon under an hour labour) -Not sure the DPF cleaning fluid did much, I think the biggest benefit was REVERSE flushing with a jet wash _ Would not advise anyone to do the DPF removal ( get some one who knows how to do these jobs... Can be done in 3.5 hours allegedly, we took ages... ) Anyway total cost of repair... 70 quid for new pipes and gaskets for parts removed...25 quid for fluid to clean DPF plus a few beers to a mate with access to a ramp , ah yes plus 250 quid for the diagnosis by Toyota to tell me the pipes were blocked ( but i needed to replace the DPF... ) If you were to pay a mechanic to do the DPF clean and Manifold replacements, my mate reckons that would be a quote for 6-7 hours labour charge, of a garage specialised on exhaust etc... Compared to the 1800 quid toyota wanted to charge to replace the DPF... hope this serves for future use to anyone who is in the same situation as I was a few weeks back... HAPPY DAYS
  3. Ahh! ok understood! I will bear that in mind... if this does not solve it.
  4. This might give you an idea, i am guessing it wont be much different from one unit to another... http://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/%7BEBA1B948-D82E-06B8-4914-8132DE94D82E%7D/TNS700_08545_0950_AIM_001_063_0.pdf
  5. OK this sounds like : They only replaced the DPF and kept the old pipes. But this means they used a old version of the DPF or an aftermarket part? There is a NEW DPF introduced into production since June 2007 (including new Pipes) for older DPFS the service repair is to replace the the pipes with new ones and an adaptor ( diameter of new pipes are larger to stop clogging) , I have had the Toyota Dealer do the full diagnostic check on my car according to tech bulletin EG-0170T-0311-EN DESCRIPTION OF PHENOMENON Some customers may complain that the check engine light (MIL) comes on. The associated Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is P2002. PRODUCTION CHANGE Countermeasure 1: The vacuum pipe connection ("Pipe, No.1") with the "Converter Sub-assembly, exhaust manifold" has been improved to enhance the flow of exhaust gas in the converter. Additionally, newly designed vacuum transmitting pipe connection ("Pipe, No.1") + an adapter are available as service part Countermeasure 2: New Injector Step2 has been applied for solenoid injectors (only for DPF version) Countermeasure 3: Exhaust Fuel Addition Injector improved (See TSB EG-0050T-1008) Field fix1: EGR Valve design has been changed on service parts to prevent carbon deposit. Field fix2: Software improvement. In case of injector replacement the resetting time of injector learning values is reduced to 2 minutes. Steps of diagnosis ( on my car) 1. Check DPF Catalytic Converter status with IT2 (intelligent tester 2) "DPF BLOCK" 2 Check Exhaust Fuel Addition Injector and Exhaust Fuel Addition Injector port. OK , result less than 1.4 3 Check whether the engine ECU has the latest calibration ID OK , latest level calibration records 4 Inspect EGR Valve Operation. ( mine is new at 110k) Slightly open, so dealer removed and cleaned , then EGR was OK. 5 Check for the amount of carbon deposits. If carbon deposit thickness in inlet manifold (check when EGR is removed ) is more than 3 mm then requires cleaning My car has more than 3 mm ( This will affect the MAF ratio later on i think) >>> this weekend i am removing it and cleaning it. 6 Check MAF values ( at 3000rpm, no load, and EGR open) For my car and engine 2AD-FHV is supposed to be 49 to 60 g/s My reading was 41 apparently , (so the manifold being covered by 3 mm might be restricting the engine ) 7 Check DPF/DPNR pipes and hoses Check if there is exhaust gas pulsation from both vacuum hoses while the engine is idling. My car HAD NO PULSATIONS, --> bulletin says 1) Replace only pipes and adaptor. (No need to replace DPF/DPNR) 8 Check Injectors (only for AD-FTV with DPF-solenoid injectors) My car is FHV not FTV 9 Check DPF/DPNR Catalytic Converter My car Gets the DPF PM BLOCK message Then runs the Regeneration 9. B) Perform the regeneration active test 1. Remove Differential Pressure Hoses from Diff. Pressure Sensor 2. Insert an M8 bolt to both Differential Pressure Hoses and install clamps. ( basically block the pipes) 3. Delete DTC P2002 4. Perform PM regeneration with IT2. ( I think this one ignores the pressure sensor and runs irrespective of pressure sensor signal) ==> At this point my DPF regenerates fine, gets up to temperature (+600deg C) very quickly and gets an OK result 5 After finishing PM regeneration, reinstall the hoses to the diff press sensor 6. Perform another PM regeneration again, ideally at constant speed between 80 and 100 km/h. Record snapshot with IT2 during regeneration to check exhaust. ===> At this point my DPF does not regenerate, does not get up to temperature quickly ( around 300deg c), triggers the error code and cuts out the regen cycle. based on this results there is a final calculation to decide if the DPF is fully clogged, but to do it you need to replace the pipes and check. So for me my next stage is replace the pipes ( requires removing the DPF) and clean the inlet manifold. At the same time i will try and flush the DPF with some DPF treatment like you had tried ( Whilst it is out of the car I might as well try it...) Toyota quote 3.5 hours to remove DPF so I am giving myself a full day ( just in case) . After that try it out and see if error comes back or not... if it does then I will take back to Toyota ask them to run the last 2 regen cycles and finalise the last stage of the diagnostic and see if it is in fact the DPF... If it does not come back , then HAPPY DAYS, and another 100000 miles of motoring ... and I have saved myself a fair amount of money on the proposed replacement of the DPF... Very long winded process, but i rather get it done "by-the-book" . More information early next week after I attempted the repair...
  6. Excellent result Auristi, I guess the fact the DPF cleaning failed to sort it points to the blocked differential pressure pipes... I am still driving my car , no issue, other than engine check light on... but i have ordered, the replacement pipes, gaskets and other bits to do the job , I am going to try and do the job myself with a mate . (Save me between 300 - 600 quid depending if i took it to a garage or dealer...) I will Remove inlet manifold and clean ( Toyota Diagnosis indicated MAF level is low and inspection shows a greater than 3mm covering of particulate matter) EGR has already been cleaner ( found to be a tiny bit open, when supposed to be fully closed.) Remove DPF, ( I will try and clean it/reverse flush to push crud out from inlet side) Replace Pressure pipes Refit, reset error codes and see what happens, if problem still there , then I guess i have no option to replace the DPF as the core might be clogged beyond repair... but as i say i have faith... the beast still bothers the big boys on the motorway... and no sign of givin in...
  7. Hi all... I am going to detail all the results and the diagnosis carried out... but in summary Differential Pressure pipes blocked. = cost of new parts 30 quid (roughly) fitment by toyota delaer 600 quid... plus they found the EGR slightly open, (cleaned ok) , and the manifold was dirty, (200 quid to clean up) potentially affecting the MAF ( as could be expected from a 160k car...) Running a forced re-gen bypassing the pressure sensor causes a full regen and the core getting to temperature. and diagnostics indicates "normal", but as soon as it need uses the pressure sensor signal it forces an error. So i need to replace the pipes... Dealer unwilling to blow air and try and de-clog the pipes, as a carbon deposit "might drop into DPC , and when regenning this might superheat this carbon deposit" and cause damage to the core (allegedly) , I am not sure this would be the case, but this is not an approved toyota repair, so i guess they would not be willing to do it... anyway... Removal and refit of DPF 3.5 hours ( not like avensis 9 hours, with subframe removal!!!) so yes 4 hours seems right. So , DPF is not blocked, just the pressure pipes are blocked, The DPF cleaners only work with gas flow, so if the dpf was clogged they would have helped but in this case they will not unblock the pipe... Time to look at friendly local mechanics to do the job cheaper than toyota. I have the full instructions etc... so should be a piece of cake. If i was to go down the path of a full DPF replacement, cost of DPF 890 quid roughly, plus pipes etc... work on 1000 quid plus 3.5 hours fitment , circa 1500 fitted. This aligns with the findings from Auristi, where the DPF cleaning did not resolve the problem... (perhaps the pipes on yours are also clogged.) The coventry dealer also reckoned that "9 out of 10" you replace the pipes and they are fine... so i think i am getting very close to a full solution to my issue...
  8. Update it has been over 13 days and over 1800 miles running with the P2002 error code. The car is at the dealers tonight and they are going to go through the full diagnosis procedure, to determine what is wrong... A couple of developments 1. Since adding the Arcoil , I have had a couple of white puffs out the exhaust ( a bit like regen)... so not sure if the stuff has cleared the system enough. and whilst the fault code stays on it might be regenerating or clearing any blockage . 2. Car has been running really well, in fact i would even say it was quieter than it has been ... so I am wondering if this stuff has improved combustion, and also due to raised temperatures is assisting on burning off any blocks... Anyhow , the dealer booked it in, I have specifically requested that they document results for every step and time taken, so i will report on outcomes of this and what ultimately is judged as the root cause. More information tomorrow , and once the repair is complete I will summarise what i have picked up from studying the tech bulletins and how the diagnosis process works, times taken, costs, etc... might be of use to the wider community in future...
  9. That is pretty inpressive Auristi, I have a strong feeling my DPF is not clogged, so i will wait to see what the diagnosis says... if they say it is the differential pressure pipes, liquimoly probably would not work, so i will get those replaced. If they tell me it is the last possible cause in the full diagnosis, a blocked DPF, then I am not going to replace it for £2000 cost , so definitely will use your recommendation, looks like it is doing well with you... ^_^
  10. Adam, I think out of principle I am going to get Toyota to do this by the book. I think it will be a good learning experience I will summarise my experiences and at the end you will all be able to see : 1. My error code, how i got it, what i did between having the fault and getting it repaired. 2. Impact it had on my driving commute. 3. time it took to do it by the "book" 4. Costs implied 5. Actual fault diagnosis process and results 6. What was the final root cause. this should help others make their mind up how to go about it if they suffer a similar fate. Also they can then decide on repair, considering what Auristi has done on cleaning the DPF alone for example. It will cost time as the technicians have to book the car in, plug the diagnostic tool, run it, and then get the diagnotic tool to run a forced regen, which i guess takes at least 15-20 minutes and I think basically revs the nuts of the engin, triggers the 5th injector and monitors gases until it reckons it has regened enough. so bank on at least 45 mintues labour cost at Toyota technician times. AWESOME!, I have been quoted 340 quid to do this by a local garage(remove DPF, take it away clean it and refit. much cheaper than a replacement. Keep us posted! Day 9 - still running it as normal as ever, fuel consumption in line with previous levels, all normal... This is second tank of fuel after the last refill with the Wynns DPF cleaner, Friday I collect the ArCOIL DPF cleaner stuff and try that...
  11. I have tried it , as it mentions it in the bulletin, that is one of the sensor checks that could trigger the error, but twice i tried after resetting the error code , it came back..., after around 50 miles...( I am wondering it this is when a regen cycle kicks in and this creates a big pressure differential and hence triggers the fault... don't know...) I was even counting to 8 and backing of the throttle for 50 miles... but it did not seem to work. (Painfull exercise also when you are driving for an hour.... ) An interesting discovery today... I went to an alternative dealer to discuss the diagnosis check timing and costs, and they will get back to me. But they made a comment along the lines of "9 out of 10" cases it is just the Differential pressure tube blocked", "we do not replace DPF anymore..." which seems a different story to the "DPF needs replacing" i got from my local dealer, but i shall hold judgement until diagnostics is done... MOST important this engine check light triggers the VSC light to go on... and i thought it might be the light on ONLY, but it is not ! I actually now don't have Vehicle Stability Control. ABS works fine but no VSC. Why the :censor: does this happen? What has an Exhaust filter fault got to do with STOPPING a HANDLING SAFETY FEATURE on my car...completely puzzled and NOT IMPRESSED, I imagine the central ECU controls all faults but surely this is a BUG in the software or a REALLY STUPID decision in terms of fault management. This is something I am adding to my list of issues to Toyota UK. . Perhaps this one should go to VOSA... not sure... Anyway... another commute day... no problems STILL. ( total 8 days x 124 miles )= 994 miles.
  12. 7th day of commute. I have reset the code by disconnecting the battery , but the code re-appears around 50 miles later... still performance is fine, nothing noticeably wrong... Poured another bottle of Wynns DFP cleaner into a full tank,... still waiting for the Arcoil cleaner stuff. stuff... Keen to hear what Auristi has to say about the cleaning operation... I have booked my diagnosis day with Toyota Dealer, Quoted for just over 3 hours a grand sum of 400 quid, which they are willing to drop down to 250! but against the 2k total cost...i am still going to go through with it... there are a lot of open questions on some of the information in the TSB's , which i intend to follow up with Toyota UK
  13. End of Day 5 ... no problems or issues with the car , I am now not even noticing the error lights (kind of... not as if you cannot see them but I am not worried about it) So to date -I have driven 124 miles x 5 days = 620 miles , average mpg = 38mpg (same as always ... no change...) -No significant smoke out of back. no abnormal noises etc... basically car is running fine... However , I have got a quote from dealer for the FULL diagnostic of the DPF fault, 3.25 hours and loads of money... but i am going ahead with it, as I am going to play this by the book and summarize my issues with this car to Toyota UK. not sure value of it but at least i will vent my anger... I do think however, and i cannot tell from the bulletins, when the engine light is on, it disables the regen process. (As it has a fault detected in one part of the system, the ECU, I think plays it safe and disables the 5th injector and regen cycle. So I think i am probably now clogging the DPF by doing this driving with engine light on (unless the DPf cleaner is doing its trick) Hence why i want the dealer to run the full diagnosis, and the "forced" regen. cycles... I am interested to see the result of your DPF cleaning, Auristi, as I have heard that other types of DPF can be cleaned, but i do not have any information about the "dry wall" type Toyota use. I guess there is nothing different, but it if works, I will definitely go down that path. Ps: Still waiting for the Arcoil to arrive... refilling this weekend , so hope to get it before Sunday...
  14. Day 4 of driving and still drives fine (124 miles x 4 days) yesterday I contacted the dealer to request a quote on completing a FULL diagnostic check on the fault code P2002 (Technical Service Bulletin EG-0170T-0311-EN) The dealer is going to check and get back to me (still waiting...) Auristi I would be very interested to hear what is the outcome of your DPF cleaning process. SR Smithy, thanks for that it seems this might be the most cost effective manner to get a fix, IF it is down to the DPF being clogged. ( I know with 160k it most likely to be, but there are other possible causes identified in the bulletin above and I want to eliminate them as possible causes) Day 5 today of driving, and still no "limp-home-mode", no change in performance, no abnormal noise, no extra smoke ( in this case probably seeing lots of smoke might be better i.e. unclogged ), no excessive heat in engine bay etc...) I should be receiving the ARCOIL stuff ... so it will probably go in the tank this evening or tomorrow morning.
  15. I think if the DPF is diagnosed as clogged , that is exactly what I will do , remove and clean it... if it is the sensor pipes blocked, i will check cost or replacement and decide if I clean them or replace them with the new service kit parts, which will be a better fix... My EGR was replaced at 110k under warranty, there was a change to the EGR valve from what i gather of the bulletins to reduce deposits building up in them... so i am going to check if my replacement part was new or old design...