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firemac last won the day on May 22 2016

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    Mitsubishi Shogun (in between RAVs!)
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  1. Good decision, Matt. They look really nice and I'm sure you must find that they add to the appearance of the car. You're wise to hang onto it if it's running well as the 4.2 was the best RAV in terms of looks and the spec/performance balance. We've had a number of them since 2002 but sadly not now - nevertheless I wish I had held onto our first, an '02 VX bought new and run for 11 years and 90K miles. Lovely car that is missed.
  2. We've had 3 petrol RAV 4.2's since 2002 (plus a couple of diesels in between) and I can honestly say that the vvt-i engine allied to the auto trans is a brilliant drivetrain, probably one of the best that I have experienced in 47 years of driving. Fuel consumption can be a bit painful but it depends upon the way you use the car; ours varied between averages of 25 mpg for a 5-dr auto used mostly for local running to 33 mpg for a 3-dr auto that did mostly long commutes. I always saw the excellent reliability and hence low-to-no repair costs as an acceptable trade-off for the fuel consumption. One thing I did learn though is that it pays to use good quality branded fuel and NOT supermarket pee. Our first '02 RAV stayed with us for 11 years and 90K miles and needed several EMS sensors during that time but it was run for the first 6 years almost exclusively on supermarket juice. Our two subsequent 3-drs were only fed Shell, Esso or BP petrol and had no sensor failures at all. Good luck with your search.
  3. Toyota will happily sell you a new ECU c/w new autobox but only after the failing box has totally destroyed itself (which it will do in very short order if you continue driving it) - about £3k+. In the US, Toyota recalled the affected cars and repaired them FoC, presumably to avoid a class action in the US courts. Not in Europe however where dealers simply deny any knowledge of the problem. In all my years of dealing with Toyota during which I got excellent service, I find their attitude in this particular respect totally disgraceful. Clearly the jerks at Toyota GB have driven that particular policy! Having your ECU re-flashed by ECUtesting in Heanor for about £300-ish and with a lifetime guarantee, is a no-brainer. I had our previous 02-reg 4.2 done by them and it was perfect afterwards. Hopefully you will by now have had it done. If not, I'd guess that the box is shrapnel and Mr. T is off-loading another unnecessary box & ECU!
  4. We've had 3 petrol 4.2's since 2002, 1 x 5dr, 2 x 3dr, all autos. We've also had a diesel 4.2 5dr and a 4.3 D-CAT auto. The petrol 5dr and our second 3-dr mainly did local school run stuff, seldom did more than 5k miles p.a. and returned between 22 MPG and 30 MPG depending upon who was driving and the agenda for the week/month in question. Call it an average of 25 MPG. The other 3dr was used for quite a lot of commuting so had much longer, steady runs. It returned an average 33MPG. The 5dr diesel was a manual 5-speed and returned 45-50 MPG mainly on commuting driving. The 4.3 D-CAT had a Lindop Chip and returned 36+ MPG comfortably. The vvt-i petrol engine mated to the torque converter autobox is a sublime drivetrain in the 4.2. As far as I know the 4.3 petrol auto is a CVT but having driven one in the past, it is almost impossible to tell that is not a conventional torque converter auto, so good is the application. I've not driven the 4.4 so can't comment. In your situation, given your low annual mileage, a diesel is a definite no-no for reasons given by other posters above. It is simply not suited to that sort of use, I would also say that your fuel costs for petrol aren't going to be astronomical, even at, say, 25 MPG. Certainly nobody wants to spend anymore than they have to but the risk of things like DPF clogging/failure will rapidly become very expensive in a diesel; and it is debateable how much damage can be caused by using cheap supermarket diesel hence it can be safer to use more expensive branded fuel just for peace of mind. Consequently your maintenance costs for a diesel used in your low-mileage environment could become onerous. Petrol engines are more robust and can put up with adverse operating regimes much better than modern diesels . As a dear departed uncle of mine used to say, "If you're only buying petrol, that's cheap motoring". Good luck.
  5. I don't know about the RAV hybrid but I had and Auris hybrid a couple of years back as a courtesy car for a few days and I was impressed by it's performance and it's economy. I achieved something like 60MPG overall which comprised Mways, A-roads and a bit of town work. The motoring press enjoy slagging the Auris off but, in the real world, it's a cracking car and the hybrid is worth a test drive, at least. So if the RAV's drivetrain is anything like, and I suspect it's probably more advanced that the Auris's, then it could be interesting. I also had a Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV for a few days recently while the Shogun's alarm/DAB was being sorted and it is an absolutely brilliant piece of kit that I would seriously put at or near the top of the list when time comes to offload the Shogun. If the RAV hybrid is anything like the Outlander then it will be impressive.
  6. Glad to hear that you had a positive result. Good luck and enjoy your new wheels!
  7. I've always used Halfords roof carriers on our 4.2's. They mount to the cross bars that fit on the roof rails. I was able to carry three bikes easily and they were not difficult to get onto the carriers. Only thing to bear in mind was that you had 2 - 3 feet of extra height above the roof so multi-storey car parks were usually no-no's! I've never liked the strap on rear bike carriers as I've seen the remains of too many of them on the road over the years. Also, as you've noted, they are virtually impossible with the spare hanging off the rear door.
  8. I don't know what your requirements are re 5-dr or 3-dr, but it's worth noting that the 4.2 3-dr is becoming somewhat iconic. Whilst that means their prices are higher initially, consequently their value downstream will be better. I must admit to having a soft spot for the 3-dr, having owned two of them in the past but they are a cracking little 4x4 with almost hot hatch levels of handling. In the right hands they can show most cars a clean pair of heels on a twisty road. Great fun.
  9. The vvt-i petrol engine is bombproof and will go on forever as long as it has been serviced properly. Like all modern engines, it is full of sensors that can fail occasionally but I've found that if you use branded quality fuel and avoid supermarket pee, the incidences of sensor failure drops dramatically, in my personal experience, having owned 5 RAVs in the past 15 years. The fuel quality issue is even more relevant with diesels! The drivetrain on the petrol is very refined and with the automatic, it is sublime; one of the best engine/box combos I've ever experienced. The only real problem to watch out for applies to the early 4.2 autobox where a software fault causes jerky and increasingly violent gear ghanges which will totally destroy the box if not repaired. Fortunately there is a very quick fix whereby the ECU is removed and sent off to a specialist such as ECUtesting in Derby who re-flash the software which fixes the problem permanently - cost about £300. The only cars affected were the early 4.2s up to about 2003; these can be identified by looking at the front lower bumper where it will have square combined indicators and foglights. The later 4.2.5 model has revised software which prevents the problem - these are identified by having round foglights under the bumper and the indicators integrated within the headlamp unit (plus a few other refinements). The petrol engine, especially in the automatic, is not known for its fuel economy but that is made up for by its great reliability and ease of maintenance. I had one catalyst failure on our first 4.2, at about 80K miles, which I put down to the fact that the car was fed a diet of supermarket fuel almost exclusively; this has been confirmed in my mind by the fact that our subsequent two RAVs were run on quality branded fuel and had no such problems. The replacement cat wa £600. The D4D diesel is generally a fine engine and drivetrain but the drivetrain is susceptible to DMF failure, as in any modern diesel. RAV4s, especially the 4.2 that you are looking at, are excellent, robust 4x4s and any car you're looking at that doesn't drive nicely, i.e. quiet, smooth ride, no vibs in the steering, no smoke from the exhaust (apart from a bit of steam on a cold start-up), no engine rattles, then walk away. There'll always be another one. Bear in mind that you are talking about 13 year-old cars + so they will be the products of how they've been treated over the years. Toyota's build quality is second to none so, as long as you can see a genuine service history and an honest seller, the car will be as good as any and better than most, IMHO. Good luck with your search.
  10. firemac


    If there is a fault, it will generate a code imediately and it will stay in the ECU until it is cleared. That can be done with the OBD reader, should you get one. The higher revs on starting from cold is normal and from what you have said, they settle down fairly quickly so that sounds like the injection system is working correctly. If she goes downhill on a closed throttle, i.e. foot right off the accelerator, is there still jerkiness?
  11. There isn't a franchised dealer anywhere or for any marque who will not try to avoid honouring warranty work where there is a question over the veracity of the service history. It's all well and good coming onto a forum and making allegations when there is no way of verifying the facts of each case. For every negative experience I would suggest that there is a myriad of good stories. I have no reason to recommend Toyota other than having owned 5 RAVs, 2 Land Cruisers, a Yaris and 2 Aygos since 2002 and having used Toyota dealers in France and in a sizeable chunk of the UK, I've only ever had one bad experience that, at the end of the day, I have put down to bad luck and the statistical liklihood of having some downside experiences over 15 years, so many cars and so many dealers. Apart from that one hiccup all my other Toyota dealer relationships have been fine, if not excellent. I can't say the same for certain BMW dealers that I've come across with company cars over the same period. (And if you want to experience the absolute pits of dealer "service" try out any PSA franchise anywhere in France, especially in Paris.) My local Toyota dealer, whom I've used regularly for the past 7 years, has always provided good trade-in deals and excellent aftercare & service but maybe that's because I've built up a relationship with them and they've seen me as a valued customer - funnily enough, all the other ones (bar that one screw-up) have behaved in a similar way. Some people posting on here have either had the most appalling bad luck with Toyota or get a kick out of whinging at every opportunity. You can only judge any dealership on the basis of recommendations from people that you know/trust and then on your own experience of them.
  12. firemac


    We've owned 3 petrol RAV 4.2s, all automatics, and one of their many attributes is an excellent smooth drivetrain (I've owned a manual diesel 4.2 and its drivetrain was similarly smooth so I'd guess the petrol manuals are even silkier). Depending upon the cars that your girl has driven before, it may just be a case of getting used to the RAV especially, as with most Japanese cars, the engine tends to be very quiet and vibration-free (almost like a sewing machine!) so they tend to be "over-revved" for want of a better description by new owners that are not used to them. Does the car have a Toyota service history? If so, I'd have thought that it would be in good shape. Nevertheless you can buy an OBD Analyser from eBay, Amazon, etc that allows you to plug in and check if there are any fault codes stored in the ECU that may be causing problems. I have a Memoscan unit that I bought for £15 on eBay and although simple, it reads all the codes and comes with a full dictionary of all the fault codes and allows you to then speak to a garage with some authority about any fix required. Certainly cheaper than the £50-100 a dealer would charge for plugging the car into their diagnostic machine. But hopefully it will simply confirm that there is nothing amiss. If you are getting 31MPG on average (is that as per the OBC display or a calculated B2B figure? The OBC read-outs can be innaccurate to varying degrees so a manual calc is recommended) that would seem to indicate that the car is running reasonably OK - the petrol RAV is not known for its frugality but that is more than made up for by its reliability and durability. Good luck.
  13. With respect, an '88 Porsche is, IMHO, going to be a lot more robust and tolerant of fuel quality than modern engines which have much more critical operating parameters for various emissions and therefore are encumbered with lots of relatively sensitive "clean-up" technology. The fact is that, if it weren't for the ECU and it's network of sensors, modern engines would probably not even run or, at best, run badly. Consequently the higher the quality of fuel used, the less clean-up needed and therefore the less liklihood of clogged EGRs, filters, etc. I am no chemical expert but as a result of my own experiences since 2002, I only use quality fuel and would certainly never use supermarket pee on its own. We owned an '02 RAV from new for 11 years and for the first 8 years of its time with us, it was run almost exclusively on supermarket petrol, mainly because it was cheap. In that time it needed a number of EMS/O2 sensors and eventually the cat failed completely and had to be replaced (£600+!!!). We have subsequently owned two other petrol RAV 4.2s which have only been run on quality branded fuel (Shell, Esso, etc) sometimes the high octane stuff but usually just their standard brews. Neither of those cars had any sensor nor CAT issues - same sorts of journies & mileages were involed. I would never put supermarket fuel in our diesel vehicles due to the greater sensitivity of those engines to fuel quality and operating regime. Admittedly the high octane stuff like Shell V-Power and the like are stupidly marked up -vs- standard fuels so now I use standard diesel plus Millers additive, which works just fine at a fraction of the additional cost of V-Power and the like. At the end of the day you pays your money and you takes your choice. However I reckon cheap fuel is a false economy - certainly £600 pays for an awful lot of the extra cost of branded fuel over supermarket pee!
  14. Hi dazza10, Why not just source a grey one and respray it to the shade you need? A bit of careful prep, a can of polystyrene-friendly undercoat and the top coat of your choice. Not a difficult job and not expensive.
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