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firemac

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Everything posted by firemac

  1. Good decision, Matt. They look really nice and I'm sure you must find that they add to the appearance of the car. You're wise to hang onto it if it's running well as the 4.2 was the best RAV in terms of looks and the spec/performance balance. We've had a number of them since 2002 but sadly not now - nevertheless I wish I had held onto our first, an '02 VX bought new and run for 11 years and 90K miles. Lovely car that is missed.
  2. We've had 3 petrol RAV 4.2's since 2002 (plus a couple of diesels in between) and I can honestly say that the vvt-i engine allied to the auto trans is a brilliant drivetrain, probably one of the best that I have experienced in 47 years of driving. Fuel consumption can be a bit painful but it depends upon the way you use the car; ours varied between averages of 25 mpg for a 5-dr auto used mostly for local running to 33 mpg for a 3-dr auto that did mostly long commutes. I always saw the excellent reliability and hence low-to-no repair costs as an acceptable trade-off for the fuel consumption. One thing I did learn though is that it pays to use good quality branded fuel and NOT supermarket pee. Our first '02 RAV stayed with us for 11 years and 90K miles and needed several EMS sensors during that time but it was run for the first 6 years almost exclusively on supermarket juice. Our two subsequent 3-drs were only fed Shell, Esso or BP petrol and had no sensor failures at all. Good luck with your search.
  3. Toyota will happily sell you a new ECU c/w new autobox but only after the failing box has totally destroyed itself (which it will do in very short order if you continue driving it) - about £3k+. In the US, Toyota recalled the affected cars and repaired them FoC, presumably to avoid a class action in the US courts. Not in Europe however where dealers simply deny any knowledge of the problem. In all my years of dealing with Toyota during which I got excellent service, I find their attitude in this particular respect totally disgraceful. Clearly the jerks at Toyota GB have driven that particular policy! Having your ECU re-flashed by ECUtesting in Heanor for about £300-ish and with a lifetime guarantee, is a no-brainer. I had our previous 02-reg 4.2 done by them and it was perfect afterwards. Hopefully you will by now have had it done. If not, I'd guess that the box is shrapnel and Mr. T is off-loading another unnecessary box & ECU!
  4. We've had 3 petrol 4.2's since 2002, 1 x 5dr, 2 x 3dr, all autos. We've also had a diesel 4.2 5dr and a 4.3 D-CAT auto. The petrol 5dr and our second 3-dr mainly did local school run stuff, seldom did more than 5k miles p.a. and returned between 22 MPG and 30 MPG depending upon who was driving and the agenda for the week/month in question. Call it an average of 25 MPG. The other 3dr was used for quite a lot of commuting so had much longer, steady runs. It returned an average 33MPG. The 5dr diesel was a manual 5-speed and returned 45-50 MPG mainly on commuting driving. The 4.3 D-CAT had a Lindop Chip and returned 36+ MPG comfortably. The vvt-i petrol engine mated to the torque converter autobox is a sublime drivetrain in the 4.2. As far as I know the 4.3 petrol auto is a CVT but having driven one in the past, it is almost impossible to tell that is not a conventional torque converter auto, so good is the application. I've not driven the 4.4 so can't comment. In your situation, given your low annual mileage, a diesel is a definite no-no for reasons given by other posters above. It is simply not suited to that sort of use, I would also say that your fuel costs for petrol aren't going to be astronomical, even at, say, 25 MPG. Certainly nobody wants to spend anymore than they have to but the risk of things like DPF clogging/failure will rapidly become very expensive in a diesel; and it is debateable how much damage can be caused by using cheap supermarket diesel hence it can be safer to use more expensive branded fuel just for peace of mind. Consequently your maintenance costs for a diesel used in your low-mileage environment could become onerous. Petrol engines are more robust and can put up with adverse operating regimes much better than modern diesels . As a dear departed uncle of mine used to say, "If you're only buying petrol, that's cheap motoring". Good luck.
  5. I don't know about the RAV hybrid but I had and Auris hybrid a couple of years back as a courtesy car for a few days and I was impressed by it's performance and it's economy. I achieved something like 60MPG overall which comprised Mways, A-roads and a bit of town work. The motoring press enjoy slagging the Auris off but, in the real world, it's a cracking car and the hybrid is worth a test drive, at least. So if the RAV's drivetrain is anything like, and I suspect it's probably more advanced that the Auris's, then it could be interesting. I also had a Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV for a few days recently while the Shogun's alarm/DAB was being sorted and it is an absolutely brilliant piece of kit that I would seriously put at or near the top of the list when time comes to offload the Shogun. If the RAV hybrid is anything like the Outlander then it will be impressive.
  6. Glad to hear that you had a positive result. Good luck and enjoy your new wheels!
  7. I've always used Halfords roof carriers on our 4.2's. They mount to the cross bars that fit on the roof rails. I was able to carry three bikes easily and they were not difficult to get onto the carriers. Only thing to bear in mind was that you had 2 - 3 feet of extra height above the roof so multi-storey car parks were usually no-no's! I've never liked the strap on rear bike carriers as I've seen the remains of too many of them on the road over the years. Also, as you've noted, they are virtually impossible with the spare hanging off the rear door.
  8. I don't know what your requirements are re 5-dr or 3-dr, but it's worth noting that the 4.2 3-dr is becoming somewhat iconic. Whilst that means their prices are higher initially, consequently their value downstream will be better. I must admit to having a soft spot for the 3-dr, having owned two of them in the past but they are a cracking little 4x4 with almost hot hatch levels of handling. In the right hands they can show most cars a clean pair of heels on a twisty road. Great fun.
  9. The vvt-i petrol engine is bombproof and will go on forever as long as it has been serviced properly. Like all modern engines, it is full of sensors that can fail occasionally but I've found that if you use branded quality fuel and avoid supermarket pee, the incidences of sensor failure drops dramatically, in my personal experience, having owned 5 RAVs in the past 15 years. The fuel quality issue is even more relevant with diesels! The drivetrain on the petrol is very refined and with the automatic, it is sublime; one of the best engine/box combos I've ever experienced. The only real problem to watch out for applies to the early 4.2 autobox where a software fault causes jerky and increasingly violent gear ghanges which will totally destroy the box if not repaired. Fortunately there is a very quick fix whereby the ECU is removed and sent off to a specialist such as ECUtesting in Derby who re-flash the software which fixes the problem permanently - cost about £300. The only cars affected were the early 4.2s up to about 2003; these can be identified by looking at the front lower bumper where it will have square combined indicators and foglights. The later 4.2.5 model has revised software which prevents the problem - these are identified by having round foglights under the bumper and the indicators integrated within the headlamp unit (plus a few other refinements). The petrol engine, especially in the automatic, is not known for its fuel economy but that is made up for by its great reliability and ease of maintenance. I had one catalyst failure on our first 4.2, at about 80K miles, which I put down to the fact that the car was fed a diet of supermarket fuel almost exclusively; this has been confirmed in my mind by the fact that our subsequent two RAVs were run on quality branded fuel and had no such problems. The replacement cat wa £600. The D4D diesel is generally a fine engine and drivetrain but the drivetrain is susceptible to DMF failure, as in any modern diesel. RAV4s, especially the 4.2 that you are looking at, are excellent, robust 4x4s and any car you're looking at that doesn't drive nicely, i.e. quiet, smooth ride, no vibs in the steering, no smoke from the exhaust (apart from a bit of steam on a cold start-up), no engine rattles, then walk away. There'll always be another one. Bear in mind that you are talking about 13 year-old cars + so they will be the products of how they've been treated over the years. Toyota's build quality is second to none so, as long as you can see a genuine service history and an honest seller, the car will be as good as any and better than most, IMHO. Good luck with your search.
  10. firemac

    RAV4

    If there is a fault, it will generate a code imediately and it will stay in the ECU until it is cleared. That can be done with the OBD reader, should you get one. The higher revs on starting from cold is normal and from what you have said, they settle down fairly quickly so that sounds like the injection system is working correctly. If she goes downhill on a closed throttle, i.e. foot right off the accelerator, is there still jerkiness?
  11. There isn't a franchised dealer anywhere or for any marque who will not try to avoid honouring warranty work where there is a question over the veracity of the service history. It's all well and good coming onto a forum and making allegations when there is no way of verifying the facts of each case. For every negative experience I would suggest that there is a myriad of good stories. I have no reason to recommend Toyota other than having owned 5 RAVs, 2 Land Cruisers, a Yaris and 2 Aygos since 2002 and having used Toyota dealers in France and in a sizeable chunk of the UK, I've only ever had one bad experience that, at the end of the day, I have put down to bad luck and the statistical liklihood of having some downside experiences over 15 years, so many cars and so many dealers. Apart from that one hiccup all my other Toyota dealer relationships have been fine, if not excellent. I can't say the same for certain BMW dealers that I've come across with company cars over the same period. (And if you want to experience the absolute pits of dealer "service" try out any PSA franchise anywhere in France, especially in Paris.) My local Toyota dealer, whom I've used regularly for the past 7 years, has always provided good trade-in deals and excellent aftercare & service but maybe that's because I've built up a relationship with them and they've seen me as a valued customer - funnily enough, all the other ones (bar that one screw-up) have behaved in a similar way. Some people posting on here have either had the most appalling bad luck with Toyota or get a kick out of whinging at every opportunity. You can only judge any dealership on the basis of recommendations from people that you know/trust and then on your own experience of them.
  12. firemac

    RAV4

    We've owned 3 petrol RAV 4.2s, all automatics, and one of their many attributes is an excellent smooth drivetrain (I've owned a manual diesel 4.2 and its drivetrain was similarly smooth so I'd guess the petrol manuals are even silkier). Depending upon the cars that your girl has driven before, it may just be a case of getting used to the RAV especially, as with most Japanese cars, the engine tends to be very quiet and vibration-free (almost like a sewing machine!) so they tend to be "over-revved" for want of a better description by new owners that are not used to them. Does the car have a Toyota service history? If so, I'd have thought that it would be in good shape. Nevertheless you can buy an OBD Analyser from eBay, Amazon, etc that allows you to plug in and check if there are any fault codes stored in the ECU that may be causing problems. I have a Memoscan unit that I bought for £15 on eBay and although simple, it reads all the codes and comes with a full dictionary of all the fault codes and allows you to then speak to a garage with some authority about any fix required. Certainly cheaper than the £50-100 a dealer would charge for plugging the car into their diagnostic machine. But hopefully it will simply confirm that there is nothing amiss. If you are getting 31MPG on average (is that as per the OBC display or a calculated B2B figure? The OBC read-outs can be innaccurate to varying degrees so a manual calc is recommended) that would seem to indicate that the car is running reasonably OK - the petrol RAV is not known for its frugality but that is more than made up for by its reliability and durability. Good luck.
  13. With respect, an '88 Porsche is, IMHO, going to be a lot more robust and tolerant of fuel quality than modern engines which have much more critical operating parameters for various emissions and therefore are encumbered with lots of relatively sensitive "clean-up" technology. The fact is that, if it weren't for the ECU and it's network of sensors, modern engines would probably not even run or, at best, run badly. Consequently the higher the quality of fuel used, the less clean-up needed and therefore the less liklihood of clogged EGRs, filters, etc. I am no chemical expert but as a result of my own experiences since 2002, I only use quality fuel and would certainly never use supermarket pee on its own. We owned an '02 RAV from new for 11 years and for the first 8 years of its time with us, it was run almost exclusively on supermarket petrol, mainly because it was cheap. In that time it needed a number of EMS/O2 sensors and eventually the cat failed completely and had to be replaced (£600+!!!). We have subsequently owned two other petrol RAV 4.2s which have only been run on quality branded fuel (Shell, Esso, etc) sometimes the high octane stuff but usually just their standard brews. Neither of those cars had any sensor nor CAT issues - same sorts of journies & mileages were involed. I would never put supermarket fuel in our diesel vehicles due to the greater sensitivity of those engines to fuel quality and operating regime. Admittedly the high octane stuff like Shell V-Power and the like are stupidly marked up -vs- standard fuels so now I use standard diesel plus Millers additive, which works just fine at a fraction of the additional cost of V-Power and the like. At the end of the day you pays your money and you takes your choice. However I reckon cheap fuel is a false economy - certainly £600 pays for an awful lot of the extra cost of branded fuel over supermarket pee!
  14. Hi dazza10, Why not just source a grey one and respray it to the shade you need? A bit of careful prep, a can of polystyrene-friendly undercoat and the top coat of your choice. Not a difficult job and not expensive.
  15. firemac

    kblevis

    I've noticed this on several of our RAVs. A single "clunk" may just be the pads shifting against the caliper as the wheel rotation reverses, i.e the pad gets dragged a tiny amount in the opposite direction to that which it usually experiences when normally braking forward. If there are continuous knocks as you brake in reverse, that is something else and needs looking at. A "loose" calliper (i.e. loosening mounting bolts) would cause a lot more problems than occasional knocking.
  16. IIRC, there is a plate in the NSF doorframe with the eng & chassis numbers, paint and trim codes on it.
  17. It's wise to avoid modern diesels if you contunuously only do short, urban journies where the engine cannot get up to temperature and therefore allow the various ancillaries (like the DPF - Diesel Particulate Filter) to burn off the sooty diesel particulates that can eventually cause very expensive damage to the engine. Having said that though we've owned numerous diesels over the years, mostly Toyotas, and they have coped with our mixed driving very well with no problems from the DPF, etc. The reality of the situation is that as long as the temp gauge regularly gets up to normal temp, then things should be fine. It's when the gauge stays in the cold section continuously - as result of jogging to the local shops once a day, for example - that you risk the problems. The RAV4.2 facelift model (from 2003) only had auto with the vvt-i petrol engine and your budget should get you a reasonable example of one of these if you shop around and haggle a bit. That drivetrain was one of the best that I've ever experienced. They are not the most economical on fuel though (our 3 examples since 2002 varied between 25MPG and 33MPG) but on the other hand their reliability and ease of servicing means that running costs tend to balance out. And they have no corrosion issues. Beware the pre-facelift 4.2 however (1999 - 2003) as these can suffer from a software glitch in the ECU that can result in a destroyed gearbox if not dealt with very quickly. The ECU in these cases can be reflashed by specialists like ECUtesting in Derbyshire for something like £300 with a lifetime guarantee on the repair. You can tell these prefacelift models as they have square-ish fog lights in the lower bumper paired with the indicators, no audio controls on the steering wheel and the earlier design of alloys. If the seller can demonstrate that the ECU re-flash has been done then the car should be fine. Otherwise you will need to get something like £300 off the price in case you need to have the work done eventually. Having said that though, some early 4.2's never have the problem but if they do develop it (symptoms are eratic gearchanges, violent gearchanges) it is imperative that the car is not driven until the ECU is re-flashed otherwise the gearbox will destroy itself quite quickly. Good luck.
  18. Much as I admire my local Toyota dealer, I suspect that like most these days he will have no alternative but to replace the necessary bits, like the ECU, rather than repair or reprogramme them. (The early 4.2 automatics have an ECU flaw that can wreck the gearbox but Mr.T will only replace the ECU (at something in excess of £1K) whilst a specialist like EcuTesting will re-flash it for £300-ish.) In your position I would try a specialist locksmith first as they can sometimes supply and re-programme replacement keys to the ECU. Otherwise it might be an idea to go after the dealer on the basis that the car is not of merchantable quality and not fit for purpose without a properly functioning remote access key, especially as it is essential for setting the anti-theft system. That valet key is named thus because it only has limited functionality and won't unlock the glovebox, for example, so if you're leaving the car with a car parking attendant, car wash, etc they cannot access anything personal that you may wish to stash in the g/b. Nor will the security system be able to set itself properly with the rolling codes that are generated by the remote key each time it is locked. Not a brilliant system given how easy it is to break into a g/b but that's the principle. Personally, I'd go after the dealer as he sounds to me as if he's trying it on. No modern car should be sold on with just a valet key - it's rediculous.
  19. This seems odd as the grey key is the valet key and has no remote/keyless access to the car. It should also come with ideally two remote keys, i.e. keys with open/lock buttons that give keyless entry. It may or may not then have keyless start depending upon the model/year. IIRC, getting new remote keys programmed is not cheap and may require a new ECU; but I'm sure that others with more knowledge than I will comment in due course. I agree that it is a serious risk not having those remote keys; personally I wouldn't buy a car that only came with the valet key - where are the remote keys and why aren't they with the car?? Why don't you insist that the dealer replaces the remote keys as part of the deal?
  20. firemac

    New Rav

    Get a coat of carnauba wax on there as soon as to keep that white paint tidy. We have a white Sogun with black & silver alloys which look good - despite the fact that I normally abhor black alloys. It depends on the car, really. Good health to enjoy it!
  21. Hi Simon, You said above that "....ours did just the same, ie throwing bit of coolant out of expansion bottle, since we bought it, 18 months ago. Toyota said that was ok." Could you therefore argue that the problem was evident a year and a half ago (when you bought it) and it was unfortunate that the Toyota dealer who you took it to mis-diagnosed the problem then? If you have any documentation that supports that earlier visit and inspection I'd try to build a case that says the problem was there whilst the car was still under the goodwill arrangement. I can understand that you are hacked off and therefore feel that you've suffered an injustice of sorts but, as has been said above, Toyota's customer service is usually way above the norm but with any piece of machinery, a line has to be drawn somewhere when it comes to long-term (and non-obligatory) liability. If you can build some credible lineage between the dealer's report 18 months ago and today's situation, that might produce the result that you want. Good luck.
  22. Hi Barbara, what I meant was that if you send me a personal message (PM) on this forum with your email address (addy) I can send you all the info.😊
  23. Hi Barbara. I think I've seen that one on AutoTrader: £8.25K for an '05 Granite. Our 05 XT3 automatic will be going into AutoTrader in the next week or so but if you'd like some details and photos in advance PM me with your email addy.
  24. Yours is a 4.2 and judging by the year, it's a facelift model. You shouldn't have any problem with parts. Most of the drivetrain is bombproof so seldom needs much whilst alot of the major kit, engine etc is still in use in the range albeit upgraded for electronics, etc. We are currently on our second 3-dr 4.2 and our local Toyota dealer does the servicing, etc. at reasonable prices and with no issues re service parts availablility. The 4.2 was very popular so there are a lot still around and the 3-dr in particular is becoming rather iconic with strong demand on the used market so I wouldn't think there's any risk re parts availability. Our resident parts meister, Parts King, can get you anything OEM that you may need with a discount if you PM him with your reg or VIN no.
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