sproutdreamer

Registered Member
  • Content Count

    354
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

sproutdreamer last won the day on June 10 2019

sproutdreamer had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

52 Excellent

About sproutdreamer

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    keith
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Avensis 1.8 TR VVTi auto 08 model& 04 Yaris 1.3 T Spirit
  • Toyota Year
    2008
  • Location
    Cheshire

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. You are probably right about a new one-I will look around.
  2. Thanks for replies - consensus from those who have insight into aircon seems it does not run if pressure low so should be no damage. Next step is to source a condensor/drier unit second hand. I must have a good look around with a torch to be sure it is the condensor leaking not a pipe, which was the case with my Avensis with the pipe under the battery having cracked. With that one I fitted a new pipe section with compression joints and all then well.
  3. The aircon did not work so well but when I asked a local car shop to fill up the refrigerant they said the condensor had failed the vacuum test and had a leak so could not do it. I did not want to spend on a car with a doubtful MOT history so just left the aircon OFF. This was about a year ago when I was about to fix it or forget it. (Thanks to Stantheman 1 for the 2 sets of diagrams he sent that I have only just got down to examining) but now wirth a good MOT it is worth having the aircon, so to fix. My question is whether not having fluid in the aircon system could have caused damage by running aircon "dry" until we realised there was a fault. I would hate to replace the condensor unit and fill up, about £120 worth if I fit the condensor myself and then find out I have buggered the compressor. Any advice is welcome on this?
  4. We bought an 04 1.3 T Spirit Yaris 3 years ago for my wife to drive as she finds the Avensis a bit bigger than she is comfortable with in tight car parks. Anyway I bought it in a rush but it looked good, the engine was immaculate and only 41k miles. It seemed very good until I took it for the MOT after 6 months. It failed on the back brakes and handbrake (needed new cylinders and shoes etc which |I did myself) but the tester said there were so many Advisories that it was not worth spending any money on. These advisories were all to do with rust :- Back crossbeam, suspension arms both sides, rear floor both sides, scills both sides, front floors both sides, rear shock absorbers both sides, all front and rear suspension springs.... In preparation for the second test a year later I set about the rear underside with a finger power sander and wire brushes and descaled everthing and used Bitumin brushed underseal and Bitumin Spray for the difficult bits. Replaced the shocks and springs. MOT then said only front floors rusty as advisories. For the MOT last week I did the underside floors etc at the front. MOT with no advisories. Total cost parts, underseal etc under £300 and about 2 weeks total work. Despite the original testers doom & gloom there was no structural rust when I was close to scrapping it! It is now a lovely little car and perfect as a town car in hospital and supermarket car parks.
  5. Some of the underbody parts are bolt on and replaceable. The cross beam at the back, the wishbone suspension arms however the mountings for the suspension arms are very prone to rust as are the sills which is a welding job. At 126k miles and with much rust it is probably not an economic repair unless you can find a friendly inexpensive body guy who can weld it up. I would ask on this forum for a recommendation for a body welder in your area, it is more a case of finding somebody who can and will do this and may not be too costly. Good luck with it.
  6. I like the thought of this safety feature on the higher spec Avensis. I am unclear how the Toyota system works, not in terms of the technology but does it operate at all speeds or just low speed and is it selectable as on/off? Also any user experiences good or bad will be interesting to hear about.
  7. They can suffer with underbody rust but this can be easily seen with a look underside.
  8. Well done-I think you were wise to walk away as leaks into the boot can be very difficult to find which is probably why it had not been fixed and until fixed you have fogging up of of glass inside, smell apart from aggressive rusting and possibly mould which is not at all healthy! Your new motor sounds nice I hope it is good for you.
  9. It sound well maintained but well overpriced. The MOT record shows advisories on this plate for corrosion on springs and suspension arms. I would be sure to have a good look underneith before thinking about purchasing at any price. My wifes 03 T Spirit despite having only 42k and being mechanically excellent was heavily corroded on the back axle beam, suspension arms, rear floors etc. Unwisely I bought it on a very wet day when I could not get to look underside. The first test had a long list of advisories all for corrosion. Fortunately several days spent under with a finger sander and 5L of underseal & spray underseal underseal retrieved the situation at the next test otherwise I think it would have failed the test and thus become a scrapper at a very low mileage.
  10. Some good videos and tips. It is clear there are two methods of fastening the hub to the back plate. Some bolt from the back side like our 04 T spirit French made, and some bolt from the front through holes in the drum plate. This will explain conflicting advice about removing stuck hubs!
  11. The stuff to fix this is "Captain Tolleys Crack Sealer". It is a boating product that is a thin milky liquid that seeps into the crack with capillary action and sets rock hard and seals the leaks. You keep applying it until no more disappears into the crack and it is done. I used it on my Avensis that had cracks in the boot guttering and it worked a treat, also used it on boats to seal cracks. Magic product.
  12. My 04 Yaris similarly had an MOT advisory and I replaced the hub and bearing unit. My hub/bearing unit was totally stuck and I freed it by slackening off the 4 bearing bolts about 8mm only and then used a socket with a 1ft long socket extension on the bolts with a lump hammer to knock and free the hub. You need to go from corner to corner alternately and progressively loosen the hub perhaps unscrewing the bolts a little more to ensure that the bolt head is clear of the hub, so can loosen it. The bolt heads have a flange and seem made for this method of persuasion!
  13. The common handbrake problem is what puts me off getting a newer Avensis than my T25!
  14. As LED bulb units protrude further at the rear than a conventional bulb I am wondering if there is room behind the fitting of the dip bulb to accomodate the longer LED unit? I am asking this after reading on the Yaris forum about successful use of LED lights on a newish Yaris.