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sproutdreamer last won the day on June 10 2019

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About sproutdreamer

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    Avensis 1.8 TR VVTi auto 08 model& 04 Yaris 1.3 T Spirit
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  1. Having looked at a picture of the catloc I wonder whether it would just take a an extra 2x10 seconds to cut off the whole lot with a disc cutter?
  2. It looks like you need substantial welding assumiming the welder can get back to some solid metal to weld to. That particular area may be retrievable at a cost of £2-300 but if there are other areas going I think you are into scrapping it. It is quite hard to find body welders now in many areas. The area shown also is the jacking point otherwise some GRP and body filler nicely sanded down and coated with underseal as we did in the 70's would give you another year or two before scrapping. You used to be able to buy sills which were welded over but the MOT is very stringent about that
  3. Sorry to hear of your bad experience Steve. It does look as if the 1.0 engine is has the cat set under the engine rather than up behind the radiator as on the 1,3. Still worth thinking about more defensive parking!
  4. All done with new shaft & Cv joints now fitted. I got the shaft complete from J&R TRADING (UK) LTD, Birmingham who are cv joint and driveshaft specialist. Only £46 including next day delivery. Looks to be high quality and an amazing price. At that price is is not not really worth messing about replacing a joint & boot. Also came with a new ABS ring and shaft nut.
  5. Thanks for exploded diagram. The threads are fine as is the ball joint itself. I have had a go at measuring and it is 10.8mm ID which ties in with 12mm 1.25mm pitch tapping drill size of 10.8mm and a thread count looks to be 1.25mm which is 12mm fine. Thanks for comments. I just need to re-assemble when the shaft arrives tomorrow. I was pleased to find I did not have to remove the bottom ball joint as that is quite rusted also but I did have to remove the ABS sensor to allow the shaft to be removed which Haynes does not mention.
  6. I had to cut the castellated nut at the ball joint top as it was so heavily corroded & out of shape. So I need to buy a new nut. There are lots of complete track rod ends on e bay but I really just want a nut. I am still shielding at home so do not want to try a car parts shop. It looks about 12mm but is a very fine thread or could be UNC. Does anyone good with threads know the size so I can order a castellated nut?
  7. I had exactly the same difficulty finding which wheel was giving the fault. I was reluctant to pay for a full diagnostic sya £60, which may or may not have detected the faulty ABS. I would have installed Techstream for Toyota on my laptop frpom these people https://ps-cardiagnostics.com but my laptop was the wriong spec so I got a local car shop to drive around their car park and immediately identified a rear sensor which is integral to the hub for a modest £25 charge. The new hub was about £30. Along the way i replaced both front sensors fpr £30,and they were choked up with rust flakes.
  8. The hole is in the tray near to the edge around the centre line.
  9. Sorry it is the engine no that starts 2SZD, the VIN is VNKKL1837OAO89524, thanks.
  10. I really should read the book. I spent 2 hours trying to remove what I thought was a pressed sheet cap over the hub nut. It looked like a cover with rounded edges but more substantial where it was pressed into the hub shaft groove. Eventually I put a large socket on to try and unscrew the whole thing and off it came. There is no retaining cap, it just looks like one but the Haynes Manual now I read it is quite clear. Anyway all free just need to withdraw the shaft tomorrow, I will try and draw off 2L of transmission fluid and hope that when I pull the shat there is not a torrent of fluid. With
  11. Thanks Flash I think a cold chisel is the only way to get off the heavy pressed steel retaining cap. At £46 a full shaft with new Cv's each end, pre-filled with grease seems the way to go, aprt from my uncertainty about the balance weight.vibration damper in the middle? Having spent a fruitless 2 hours I will go and sharpen my cold chisel! I found the VIN which starts 2SZD so I guess it is a 2SZ-FE which is the French made one, as is our car. As I understand the Jap made 1.3 is the 2NZ-FE and is 1299cc. My uncertainty was due to the fact that the vehicle reg doc shows the cc as 1299
  12. Thank for replies-I have started to take out the drive shaft and already with difficulty getting off the wheel nut retainer. One I have dealt with in the past have been fairly thin sheet pressed metal so easy to get off. This one is quite heavy pressed steel and I cannot shift it at all. Are there any clever ways of freeing this retaining cap to get at the wheel nut? The existing drive shaft has a round rubber block in the middle which I understand is for anti-vibration or balancing but the aftermarket ones do not seem to have this. Any ideas about this. The aftermarket ones that get good
  13. I am needing to order a new drive shaft complete with rubber boots and cv joint. Not genuine Toyota but just under £50 seems good. However I have hit a snag regarding the engine code. On the vehicle registration it shows 1299cc and Engine no 2SZD238488 which I take to be engine code 2SZ-FE. BUT on parts suppliers lists the 1299cc engine is listed as 2NZ-FE and no Yaris/Vitz only Yaris Verso. Has anyone an insight into this-it looks as if the two engine codes use different shafts?
  14. Thanks it is a bit cold for grovelling under the car and my garage is full of junk. Any ideas what I should expect to pay in a non-dealer repair garage?
  15. Our04 Yaris has just started to leak a little oil from the CV rubber boot.My daughter needs to use it tommorow for a 20 mile round trip in town. Is that going to bugger the CV joint itself? I would usually replace the cv joint if replacing a rubber but on an old car if it is ok maybe not. Despite having had cars with FWD for 40 years I have only had to replace one boot or joint and that was a mini van about 1973 so unfamiliar territory for me. What are thoughts on this?
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