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Everything posted by sproutdreamer

  1. After drying out for 3 days all workings now but I now know how to re-program a key. The big problem seems to be if you lose/damage both at the same time!
  2. Hi Yes the tranponder must be in the electronic module as the car will not start on the key without the module in situ. Thanks for the link but my car is an older model and from other links, cars of that era have the central locking programmable by a series of operations with the key, ignition on off, doors opening and all sorts of magic. I am sure someone who has done this and kept a clear record of how will be along soon. 🙄 Maybe I can switch the transponder from my fob to another module?
  3. I stupidly got my key fob wet (T25 08 Avensis) I have had it apart and dried it out but the remopte does not activate the door pocking and no LED when operating the button. The key itself will manually open the door and the central locking and start the car so I guess the transponder is ok. I have had it apart and physically dried it and with a cool hair dryer but no joy. If I get a second hand 3 button Avensis key can I fit the electric unit into my key fob and re-program that to my car? Is the transponder in the plastic fob or the seperate remote control electronic unit and will that trnspose to my car? I have seen similar queries and answers on the forum but those relate to other Toyota models or earlier or later Avensis.
  4. Spring clamps normally come in pairs, one each side of the spring. You normally clamp at the top and bottom one coil from each end which should stop your problem occuring. I have replaced lots of strings as coil fractures are common. I recently did a Yaris all round and I do not remember and problem locating the top and bottom of the springs in the top and bottom collars. I do not thinkl springs are handed-have you got them the right way up, sorry if that is a silly query. From memory the bottom spring flage is fixed to the strut but the top collar rotates into position. Good luck with it-tou will get good advice here.
  5. I feel for you as we were in a similar situation. 3 years ago we bought an 04 Yaris T Spirit with an exceptionally clean engine, only 41K miles and a very good body and inside. Unfortunately it was pouring with rain, the car was stood in a deep puddle so I did not look underneith as I would normally but it drove very well. The first test 6 months later virtually condemed the car for scrap due to extensive underside rust although it passed after I fiited new springs all round, rear shocks and a couple of brake pipes. So unwilling to accept I had paid too much for the car I then undertook to derust and treat with antifoul and rust treatment and after spending about 10 days under with a finger grinder & fortunately there was no structural rust and the last test there were no advisories. I have also done a rear wheel bearing, ABS sensors, new exhaust, complete rear brake cylinders and shoes, and other stuff I have forgotten about. I think the moral is you either have to see the light very early and get rid or once you have started spending money you may have to spend more to get the benefit of the money you have already spent. I will keep this Yaris now until it dies and my wife loves her little car so not all bad. Good luck sorting yours!
  6. 2004 1.3 T Spirit. I am in the process of changing the engine oil on the Yaris but there does not seem to be a copper or fibre washer on the sump plug. Is that correct? I do not have the handbook or user manual to hand. Thanks, then I can put some oil in!
  7. Our 04 t spirit gets condensation at the botton of the windscreen when the car is left. There is no trace of damp in any carpet and no sign of water ingress anywhere. In car I have had in the past there has always been a damp carpet. I took off the plastic grill in front of the screen and there were leaves in there but were dry. I was expecting to see a cone shaped sump with water in it but any water claearly drains away in some other fashion? I have replaced the cabin filter which was mucky but dry. Any ideas on this?
  8. Taking out the ABS sensors can be problematic (sheared off small diameter bolts) so suggestions about doing resistance checks makes sense. However all my ABS were choked up with rust flakes and cleaning them felt a useful task but the one that was not working had failed (rear drivers side) so I replaced the hub and ABS sensor as a unit at about £40 for the parts. The most intellegent approach is to use a code reader otherwise it is hit and miss trying to guess which wheel and you can spend a lot of time and money just changing parts in hope.
  9. I have an 08 1.8 TR Auto Avensis and previously an 04 Avensis 1.8. They are not exciting cars but the performance is good enough they are very comfortable and safe cars for motorway and commuting use. I get 38.7 mpg overall with 50/50 motorway and town driving. The petrol auto Avensis is the most reliable of all the 25 second hand cars I have owned over many, many years.
  10. I feel your pain - Avensis headlights are crap. It is my only complaint I have about both the T22/04 I had and my current T25/08!
  11. I used to think that these were just fancy/pretty rear lights that because they were a cluster then you were never going to have a failed rear light just one LED not working out of a large number. However when I started reading up on LED rear lights the faster light up time actually give a useful frction of a second of braking that give the following car more time to avoid shunting you up the back end. The difference in light up time equates to several metres, the actual distance depending on the speeds. So a real safety feature in practice.
  12. Good possibility, best to get a hosepipe on the car and look for leaks!
  13. Lots of possibilities-you need to look with a torch to spot dribble marks and inspect the floor closely. Most likely to be the floor and unless a real hole should be fillable with body filler to seal the leak and underseal over the repair. Another possibility is the air intake for the cabin ventilation-there is a drain undernieth that can get blocked with leaves etc and overflow water into the passeger footwell. The grill in front of the windscreen stops big leaves but fine pollen and leaf fibres can get in and block up. You need to take of a section of the grill, passenger side to get a length of stiff wire to poke out any blockage,ai that is the problem. All you can do is check the easy things first, good luck with it. Water in the car is horrible with smell, screen condensation apart from the health issues of mould growing and breathing spores in is dangerous to health, particularly at the moment.
  14. Thanks for the picture-yes those are like my wheels. I will have to keep a lookout for the other wheels. When fitting the space saver wheel, the wheel nuts for the alloy wheels do not sit properly into the small recess on the steel space saver rim. Fortunately I have some steel wheel nut that I carry for my Avensis space saver wheel and they fit the steel rims securely. There is a little chamfer on the end of the alloy wheel nut but that does not fit into the recess to centralise the stud in the rim.
  15. All sorted and thank for advice. I took it to my local Black Circles branch who first informed me that BC no longer does punture jobs. After a little persuasion of the financial kind he agreed to do it while I waited. He gave the rim a thorough wire brushing and did remove a lot of scale. Fitted anew valve and gave both rims a lavish coating of rubber based seating compound. All rebalanced in about 10 minutes. The tyre fitter said they do a lot of alloy rim fettling but steel rims give few problems.
  16. It is off the car but still cannot see anything? I was thinking of getting local tyre place to take it off for me, I will refurbish and then getting the tyre refitted and balanced.
  17. Thanks, what is the best way of refurbishing a porous alloy wheel rim?
  18. One of my tyres has a slow leak about 4psi per week. I have had the wheel off and dosed it with very soapy liquid around the rims both sides and all over the tyre and the valve but cannot spot anything.The tyre is only about 2 years old and perhaps 3k miles. My assumption was that the rim was a bit corroded so the tyre was not seating perfectly but I would have expected to see a leek. Any ideas and what to do with it? I have just read an AutoExpress article that says that manesium alloy wheels can be quite porrous - I did not know that!
  19. Hello, welcome to the forum. Some very knowledgable and helpfiul people on here. Certainly a rip off. The oil and filter should be under £45 so £255 for what is about a 1/2 hour job in a garage. It would only take me about an hour on my driveway! Further advice will be along shortly. The beauty of doing it yourself is that you know what oil is going in, that the filter has actually been changed. A garage that rips off customers on price probably also does not do what you pay fo. So probably a double rip off.
  20. You can buy a pair of rear shockers for £40, springs all round £60 and an exhaust £80. The front suspension units probably need a wire brush but you need to get them off to fit new springs anyway.,and paint. The springs and shocks are easy DIY the exhaust maybe a garage but they do not have a big mark up for fitting. .
  21. It is worth knowing that the steel space saver wheel needs different wheel nuts to the standard wheel nuts for alloy wheels. The alloy wheel nuts screw into a circular housing in the alloy rim and the steel wheel nuts just nestle into a rounded recess.
  22. To be fair some Kwik Fit must be ok just not all. They would be up for replacing shock absorbers, springs and exhaust system like a shot. The mechanics are probably under pressure to upsell further services. I think the comments are spot on to leave until the MOT is due and then see what a QualifiedTester has to say before you do anything, so you have 7 months to think about it.
  23. MOT 2018 Advisory notice item(s) Nearside Front Outer Anti-roll bar linkage rubber mounting deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2) Offside Front Outer Anti-roll bar linkage rubber mounting deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2) Advise....Heavy corrosion to under body of vehicle , floor , chassis box sections front and rear , front and rear suspension components Advise....RH hand parking brake cable bracket broken / corroded Advise....corrosion to RH front inner wing adjacent to strut mounting / area Advise.....heavy corrosion to rear axle beam Advise.....corrosion to LH rear door lower section The bushes took a couple of hours and a couple of days underneith with a finger grinding belt and underseal reduced the problem to:- MOT 2019 Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories): Offside Rear Wheel bearing has slight play (5.1.3 (a) (i)) Both front floors slightly corroded Rear floors and under sills slightly corroded A couple more days with finger grinder and wire brush and underseal resulted in:- MOT 2020 PASS no advisories. The MOT history above is our 2004 Yaris with only 48K miles now. As has been said above there is a massive difference between surface rust and serious corrosion so you need to check if it is structural rot or surface rust and only you going under or a mechanic with no vested interest in creating some work. Our car did look very bad but there were no holes and no rot but a lot of rust scale so I caught it in time and the car should be good bodywise for another 10 years. Some Halfords Branches have a terrible reputation for doing uneccessary work so I would find an MOT centre that has a fair reputation. It is a lot of work underside to fettle it so it depends on how valuable to you the car is, how much time or cash you are inclined to throw at it. My wife loves her 1.3 Yaris so it was worthile for me to do it. To give some balance to this I had already replaced all springs and rear shockers (previous advisories). I took off my front struts intending to replace them but they worked fine and just rusty to cleaned them up and painted with black Hammerite..
  24. Cheer up-I was driving about 10 years before I could parallel park properly. It is one of the hardest manoevers in driving apart from reversing a trailer. You just need to practice and not shy away from awkward parking by seeking out easy spots to park. A lot of people have the most difficulty parking. One thing not normally spoken about is how much easier automatic cars are to park as you can just let it creep on its own without having to operate the clutch.