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Do Not Sell My Personal Information


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Everything posted by sproutdreamer

  1. If I was doing it myself I would do as you have and cut out the corroded bit rather than the whole length of pipe however \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\I do not know exact5ly what section is being replaced. Garages (mostly) are not interested in saving you money by doing an economic repair.
  2. Car MOT failed on rear brake pipes corroded. Dangerous failure. I was aware they were a bit corroded and due to be replaced sometime so I would not have been surprised at an advisory. I was a bit shocked at the garage quote to replace these, £300 the pair plus £36 to replace both front wipers. I normally do my own repairs and would expect to do that in about 4 hours at a total cost of about £60 brake fluid, pipes and wipers. However just having moved to a house with a dangerously steep drive so not a place to be jacking cars up this will need to be a garage job. Am I completely out of touch with costs or have i Just been over the barrel.
  3. Hi Bob I am wanting to make a steering mechanism for an outboard motor on a sailing catamaran. The normal outboard steering is via steering cable on the pivot axis but this is not possible due to the position of the outboard in a well in the transom on this particular boat and size of engine. The other problem is when the outboard tilts that the back end tilts up about 10" and a bowdon cable cannot cope with that. Many cats use lines from the rudder or rudder bar to connect the engine to the steering. This works well but you usually have to manually connect/disconnect the lines when the engine is lifted and the bigger the engine the greater the travel up and down when dropped or lifted. I am going for a system like the Prout catamarans where they have a vertical lever below the wheel that has central, midway and full over, each way positions. So the flexible joint is for the base of the lever and if I use a steering joint about £15 and with its rubber cap and full of grease it should not be adversly weather affected. When I first got the boat it had steering lines which helped it park very well but since getting a much bigger engine the lines were unworkable and had to come off. I am doing mostly single handed sailing now so this facility will be a big improvement in tight or windy harbours and marinas.
  4. Not strictly a car query as I am wanting to use a ball joint to act as a base for a joystick type control lever on a boat. Has anyone an idea of the angle that the ball joint is designed to pivot from the vertical. It is years since I did one of these. From memory I imagine about 30 degrees each way but if someone has a more precise idea I would be grateful.
  5. I fortunately stopped at motorway services and checking round the car. tyres etc found one of my wheel nuts missing. When I checked the tyre pressures a couple of weeks ago before a long motorway journey I checked all nuts for tightness. The remaining 4 nuts were quite slack. I managed to improvise and complete the journey by borrowing one of the towbar towball nuts which fortunately was the same size and thread. So I wonder if someone was tryng to steal a set of nuts or a wheel but could not complete the theft? Anyway when I look at OE wheelnuts for sale I find it impossible to source single nuts so it looks like I need to buy a set. These are the longer nuts about 47mm long but the claimed OE (2 different suppliers) nuts offered are 43mm long. Is it likely that the weight difference could cause an imbalance and hence wheel vibration? When I used to use locking wheel nuts they looked vusually more bulky than the standard alloy wheel nut so I suspect that close to the centre of the wheel it is less critical. Being weekend I have not had the opprtunity to check with the Toyota Dealer locally the availability and price of single nuts but I am always appalled at the price of some Toyota spares so buying a set of 4 nuts for what Toyota will probably charge for a single nut appeals if the balance thing is not an issue. If I bought from Toyota I might well find that the nuts are longer anyway. Any views whether this is a problem or not.
  6. I am amazed to see the following dire warning regarding the low beam headlight. "Do not attempt to take apart or repair the low beam headlight bulbs. ... Doing so could result in electric shock ansd serious injury or death". Any ideas what that is about or is that warning really relating to models with HID bulbs rather than Halogen bulbs, which my TR has?
  7. I had the disc out to confirm what software issue it was-now the disc will not go back in. Any ideas?
  8. The satnav info on my 08 Avensis is very outdated now and I wish to update it. I see 2017 discs available that appear to fit the bill but is there anything I should be aware of either the compatibility of these discs or the actual upgrading procedure i.e. just bung in the disc or more than that? Advice on this is welcomed.
  9. I assumed that the two rubber caps were for towbar fitting but not so, they are in different positions altogether and towbar bolting is in a standard position for all bars. Still the third hole is pre-drilled in the bottom of the box section and just need to drill through this hole and up through the top of the box section. There is a tube spacer supplioed to avoid squashing the box section by the third bolt.
  10. I made a start and fitted the nearside bracket. I was pleased to see that two of the 3 bolt fixings use the two threaded holes left after removing the tow loop bracket. The other bolt hole was just a 12mm drill up through an existing hole in the box section and through the top of the box section. I was also pleased I went for a curved towbar which tucks up neatly behind the return curve of the bumper and does not need the bumper off or a bumper cut, the swan neck towball curving up nicely. The driver side needs the rear silencer box off to access the right hand side box section so I have dosed the flange bolts with plusgas and saved that side for another day. Now to find a trailer!
  11. Thanks Heid... The fitting guide is a bit incomprehensible and mostly in multi languages but not english. I have ordered a towbar and am wondering how long it will take me to fit it as there is a good trailer for sale near to me. There are rubber grommets in the boot floori I assume these are for towbar fitting so no need to drill holes?
  12. I could really do with some advice here. Some bars seem to have just 2 holes each side for mounting bolts through to the bar brackets, others seem to have extra brackets and then there is the silencer issue.
  13. I need to fit a towbar to use a trailer for a couple of month so not a long term thing. I was looking at a number of towbars on ebay and the fitting details seemed very varied. Some demanded a bumper cut, some bumper removal and some no cut or removal. Some towbars seemed to require the silencer removal and others seemed to have several brackets. Any wise words about a minimum effort installation.
  14. I contacted a dealer selling June 2016 Avensis 1.8 Business Edition Plus saloon. There are not many of these saloons about and I was going to have to travel a fair way to view it so I asked the dealer to confirm that it had a Reversing camera, LED headlights, cornering foglights and Autonomous Emergency Braking. I was surprised when he came back to me to say No AEB and he had checked with Toyota main agents who told him that was only on later models. Is that correct?
  15. I have a 2008 1.8 auto TR and it is the most reliable car I have ever owned. It is comfortable and I average 42mpg overall. The semi auto can be used in manual mode when you want a bit of zip or on very hilly roads. We have had 4 Toyota autos of various models and the auto box has never given any concern. My Avensis has superficial rust underside but nothing structural and it has only failed a test once, on a tyre valve which was perished. If the price is right and it has some service history and not too many miles then these are not expensive now so how can you go wrong.
  16. My 2003 1.3 auto has a similar sounding noise only when pulling away. This only appeared after I had a new exhaust fitted. I think it is to do with the exhaust flange bolts and tension springs but I have done trying to fix it and I now live with it. I will be interested when you fix it to find out what it was.
  17. I understand the urge to customise and improve the car for yourself. I hope it all goes well-it would be great if you can feedback how it went & what it cost etc so we can all be a little more informed about mods.
  18. I think you need to think carefully about this. I lowered the suspension on a Ford Cortina many years ago and it totally altered the ride and steering characteristics. Yes I had a better looking , lower car but it became a dog to drive. What I had not thought about was the lowering of the suspension involved shorter and higher rated springs which altered the ride and suspension totally. I know this is the other way but if the springs are a progressive rate spring you may find the first part of the spring compressing is very soft (being longer) giving a strange bouncy ride.I would do some serious reading about this first. I think Flash22 is also on the money regarding shaft and steering geometry concerns. Unless the blocks are Toyota Approved you could find the car is very adversly affected in the characteristics of the steering and ride. It would also count as a model modification and your insurers probably would not accept that change, apart from the larger wheels!
  19. Having looked at a picture of the catloc I wonder whether it would just take a an extra 2x10 seconds to cut off the whole lot with a disc cutter?
  20. It looks like you need substantial welding assumiming the welder can get back to some solid metal to weld to. That particular area may be retrievable at a cost of £2-300 but if there are other areas going I think you are into scrapping it. It is quite hard to find body welders now in many areas. The area shown also is the jacking point otherwise some GRP and body filler nicely sanded down and coated with underseal as we did in the 70's would give you another year or two before scrapping. You used to be able to buy sills which were welded over but the MOT is very stringent about that now.
  21. Sorry to hear of your bad experience Steve. It does look as if the 1.0 engine is has the cat set under the engine rather than up behind the radiator as on the 1,3. Still worth thinking about more defensive parking!
  22. All done with new shaft & Cv joints now fitted. I got the shaft complete from J&R TRADING (UK) LTD, Birmingham who are cv joint and driveshaft specialist. Only £46 including next day delivery. Looks to be high quality and an amazing price. At that price is is not not really worth messing about replacing a joint & boot. Also came with a new ABS ring and shaft nut.
  23. Thanks for exploded diagram. The threads are fine as is the ball joint itself. I have had a go at measuring and it is 10.8mm ID which ties in with 12mm 1.25mm pitch tapping drill size of 10.8mm and a thread count looks to be 1.25mm which is 12mm fine. Thanks for comments. I just need to re-assemble when the shaft arrives tomorrow. I was pleased to find I did not have to remove the bottom ball joint as that is quite rusted also but I did have to remove the ABS sensor to allow the shaft to be removed which Haynes does not mention.
  24. I had to cut the castellated nut at the ball joint top as it was so heavily corroded & out of shape. So I need to buy a new nut. There are lots of complete track rod ends on e bay but I really just want a nut. I am still shielding at home so do not want to try a car parts shop. It looks about 12mm but is a very fine thread or could be UNC. Does anyone good with threads know the size so I can order a castellated nut?
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