sproutdreamer

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Everything posted by sproutdreamer

  1. It looks as if there are two different ways of fixing the hub bolts. My (French built) 04 1.3 Yaris has the hub flange threaded and the bolts are at the rear of the brake plate ie accessed from the back side of the brake plate. Other Yaris's as shown on the PDF above have the body flange threaded and the bolts are through the hub flange plain holes and accessed from the brake shoe side. I am not sure why the torques would be different-perhaps they are both right? As a thought the hubs will be different for these two options i.e. one will have threaded holes and the other clearance holes!
  2. My Haynes Manual says 52NM or 38ft lbs?
  3. "I was aware that a small percentage of their bearings carspares-direct where bad but most people seemed happy with their bearings. So the hug nuts are low torque and come out from the back. The bearing they gave does not seem to have been returned, looks excellent and sparkly. Haynes book has no info on bearings but a lot on breaks" You cannot trust e bay about feedback - I left negative feedback for my faulty bearing from carspares-direct and the way they tried to hide behind the terms of the e bay listing to avoid a refund. Eventually I got e bay to force the refund but without the return postage. This showed as negative feedback on carspares-direct feedback and my feedback left for others for a couple of months and then just dissappeared! Note they do not accept refunds after 14 days apart from the qualified mechanic nonsense. See below their Terms at the bottom of their e bay site:- Warranty IMPORTANT WARRANTY INFO: Warranty is ONLY valid if the item is fitted by a fully qualified mechanic. We will ask for a letter from the mechanic with the business letterhead for proof. We will need a full report detailing how the part has been diagnosed as faulty and without this letter we are unable to make any warranty claims. The length of warranty varies on the items we sell, but all start from date of purchase(please keep proof and date of purchase recorded and safe). There is NO WARRANTY on items that have been fitted incorrectly and we don't acceptclaims for labour on faulty goods that are returned. NOWARRANTY CLAIM ON PARTS THAT HAVE BEEN FITTED BY NON QUALIFIED MECHANICS Please use a trackable return service and keep the receipt. Our warranty will only cover a replacement for any faulty item, and not a refund. No refunds can be issued after 14 days from the purchase date and may ask for the item to be return for inspection too. Our warranty is limited liability for product only and doesnt cover labour /fitting / inconvenience / car hire/ breakdown charges or any other damage.
  4. The only way to get experience is to do stuff but if you take your time and dont rush and break things it will be fine. Just be sure to safely block up the car as well as jacking it up. Also you need a tiny flat screwdriver to prise a little plastic tag down in order to pull out the ABS sensor plug. If you look at the socket on your new hub you can see where the plastic clip on the plugs fits, which helps to get the right spot. Good luck.
  5. Sorry to say that the faulty bearing I had was from Car Spares Direct, your seller. Even though their address is shown as Great Portland Street, London their returns address is in Essex and is the same as several other e bay motor spares sellers including Bahuha who I also bought a faulty bearing from. Yours may be fine just be sure when you fit it and you have the wheel on that you try it for play-you cannot feel the play with the bearing in your your hands, you need the wheel radius leverage for it to be felt. Getting the bearing out is as follows. Loosen the bolts but do not remove them. Use a lump hammer to bang loose the bearing, one side then the other and then the opposing two bolts. The bolts have special large flanges that the socket bears on. This will only work if your bolts are at the back. If they are inside the brake drum (as the original poster) then I am not sure, but he descibes how to do this on an 09 Yaris. The torque for the hub nuts is 38ft lbs or 51NM so not incredibly tight. Good luck with it-my experience of these things is that it is better just to do it at a convenient time, without the pressure of a pending MOT and when the weather is kind, also if the bearing is bad you can send it back as you could just put the old one back on for a while.
  6. I am really surprised that at a routine service the refrigerent pressure is checked in the air con. It looks to me like a garage looking for some work. If you have had the car 9 years, have you just had the aircon serviced, otherwise why not picked up before. Fishy!
  7. On the 1.3 engine 04 they are shouldered bolts and the 2 springs give the correct tension to the manifold ring gasket. You can get at the top of the threads of the bolts to apply penetrating oil. A few doses of proper penetrating oil (not WD40) should help avoid shearing off the bolts. If you did shear off the bolts I think you can probably get at the top to drill out the broken stud. Good luck with it.
  8. Thanks for that I was puzzled- different to mine as the suspension mount on mine has clearance size holes for the bolts and the bolts go through from the back to bolt up into the tapped holes in the hub. Mine is a French Made Yaris but I am surprised if that made the difference. Live and learn!
  9. I am pleased that you got it done ok but I am totally confused about your holding bolts direction. The bearing hub bolt holes are threaded and the hub fits against the back plate that carries the brake shoes so how can bolt heads from the brake shoe side tighten up unless someone has fitted ordinary bolts with nuts on the back (other side) of the brake plate. The proper studs have a smaller head for a 10mm socket but then have a bigger forged flange and would not be longer enough to take a nut ont he back. Just puzzled. keith
  10. I used to think these were just that having an array of small lights gave some redundancy compared to a single filament giving up. I have now realised that they are a safety feature since the LED will light up faster than a filament bulb and give the following driver more warning that you are stopping. If say there is 0.3 seconds difference in the lighting up time that is about 30ft at 60mph, the diference between a shunt and a scare!
  11. Result - I fitted a new step bolt to replace the plain bolt that the exhaust shop had fitted. The strange rattle on acceleration has now gone. Ther plain bolt must have had too much or too little tension on the manifold clamp!
  12. I quite fancy a Rav 4 but the newer ones are much bigger than older ones. Around what date did they get much larger?
  13. My 08 AVensis needed new rear discs and pads at 52K miles when 6 years old. My previous Avensis needed new front discs at 50k. Clearly not as long lived as some other cars.
  14. It is best to remove the nut at the bottom of the shock absorber and then just push the shocker sideways out of the way. You can then get at all the bolts easily. With a 8" socket extension you can tap the socket onto the flange bolts to getit well seated. One of mine I used a not so good ring spanner at first and rounded off the nut head on one of them. I got out of that by hammering on a size smaller socket. I bought a set of 4 new bolts from Toyota for £8-9 as a couple of them were a bit rounded . If a bolt head became rounded you could alway use a blunt chisel or screwdriver and hammer it bearing on the flange which is afair bit bigger than the nuts. Only 4 nuts and good access with the shocker loose. Good luck with it, dont forget the penetrating oil it does make a difference.
  15. It would be interesting to hear the outcome of this-half the interest of the Forum is hearing about problems...but the other half about results is more revealing!
  16. My first Avensis 03 model had dreadful leaks into the boot. After lots of time spent tracing the leaks and looking at light seals, vents, boot seal(hatchback) and everything it turned out to be the welded joints low down each side of the hatch. The welds had not cracked but were leaking. I fixed it with a "creeping crack sealant" Captain Tolleys Seam Sealant. You apply it and it seeps into the seams by capilliar action and then sets hard. Worked totally. It may not be your problem but it is worth thinking about it from this angle.
  17. The genuine Toyota hub/bearing and ABS sensor unit was quoted as £356 by my local Toyota dealer for our 04 1.3 Yaris a little while ago when I did one of mine. Therer are lots of pattern spares on e bay for around £28-£40. However I bought one which fixed the ABS problem I had but then had an MOT advisory for play in the (new) bearing. After much hassle I got a refund and ordered another from a different supplier. I fitted that one and there was play in it, again more resistance to giving me a refund. Different makes but both faulty. I eventually bought from these https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/carpartsgermany2016?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 It is a very easy job although the 4 shoulder securing bolts need a long socket extension to get at and soaking in penetrating oil helps to free off these very tight bolts. By the time I had done it 3 times I could get one off and a new one fitted in about 1/2 an hour. You need a tiny flat screwdriver to push down a plastic tab that holds in the sensor to the hub. Good luck with it
  18. Not sure if this is any help but we get 34mpg from an 04 1.3 auto. This is urbam mileage only.
  19. As far as I recall there was no difference in the part numbers for the French or Japan built sensors. If you are looking at a cost of about £260 for the garage to do it I would have a low cost go at it myself. It only involves jacking up the car front nearside, blocking it up for safety. The sensor is very accessible and is only a 5 minute job to remove and at only £15 off e bay is worth a go yourself. Remember that if the garage twist off the head of the bolt securing the sensor they will then charge you for drilling it out and retapping the hole, probably another hour at another £70? Whatever you do it is still worth soaking in penetrating oil as it will save you money and time. You do not have to jack up the car to soak the bolt just put it onto full right lock and you can get at it to put on penetrating oil from a can. 253155337988 See e bay item number - Ihave bought from these people without problems.
  20. I feel for you-our 04 T Spirit was extremely rusty underside and previous MOT advisories made me wonder if I should just scrap it at only 46K.. I used a power finger sander for 3 days and shifted all the rust (I found that much better than a power wire brush). I then started with Hammerite but quickly got bored with that and just went straight to bitumin underseal mostly brush but also spray cans for the difficult bits. I fortunately found no rot just lots of rust but all good now and the test only had advisories for the rust in areas I did not get around to. Car is French build but was kept in Scotland where they use lots of salt in Winter?
  21. The problem with the ABS sensors at the front is that the housing in the hub becomes very rusty (forged steel) and they can be difficult to remove without breaking them. The front ones have a single small bolt holding them in position and you will be lucky not to shear the bolt. I would make a start with a good dose of penetrating oil (not WD40) for a few days. If you do shear the bolt it is easy to access and drill and retap 5/6mm. A flat screwdriver tappped at the joint with a hammer will part the sensor from the hub. You may just find the ring in the hub is totally fouled with rust chippings and this is stopping the sensor working which is what I found, but as I had bought new sensors I replaced them anyway.. The sensors are only £10-18 each on e bay not the silly Toyota prices. You will see left and right sensors but they are both the same apart from the small bracket that fits on the brake pipe stanchion, which is handed but you can re-use this. I have replaced 3 of my sensors (trying to find the fault!) and all is well afterwards. Good luck with it, just try and be gentle with the securing bolt.
  22. I have just realised the answer is that the bolts are "step" bolts i.e. have a shoulder that takes the specified bolt torque and sets the springs at a pre-determined length and tension onto the exhaust gasket. Amazing that the Haynes Manual does not make this clear. I just set the bolt so that the spring compression looks about the same as the side with the proper bolt. The exhaust fitters that did my exhaust must have snapped one of the special bolts and replaced it with an ordinary bolt.
  23. I had a new exhaust fitted a while ago and wondered whether it had been bolted up properly and the was cause of the intermittent low speed rattle/squeal. One of the bolts that goes through the spring on the exhaust clamp was quite loose. The Haynes Manual shows the bolt torque as 32ft lbs so at that the spring is well compressed-so what is the purpose of the two springs? Regarding the rattle, I am about to loosen off the auxillary belt and try and turn the water pump and alternator by hand and see if that reveals any roughness. I would not bother about the rattle and would wait for it to get worse and self diagnose itself but it is my wife's car and she worries about breaking down in the middle of nowhere!
  24. This must have been a long standing niggle otherwise why would the previous owner have gone to the expense of having all 4 wheels tracking checked. I do not think there is any magic, quick fix only what you plan to systematically check steering joints etc. Good luck with it as it sounds a lovely low mileage Avensis. My 08 T25 auto has done 80k and is excellent apart from the poor headlights which is a well know issue.
  25. Thanks stan for taking the time to send me the diagrams which are great. Incidently where did they come from as I have a Haynes Manual and not in there!