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Everything posted by sproutdreamer

  1. Thanks for that ifo Stevie J. I will look more closely at the areas you have cited. I have to get it through the test as wifey loves her car; having said it does not seem a car for a long run (too much road noise over 55mph) it is a brilliant town car as it will fit parking spots unavailable in an Avensis My Yaris is much worse at the back end than the front but so far I have cleaned up both sub frame suspension mounting areas at the rear, the the trailing arms and the rear cross beam as well as the underside completely as far forwards as under the rear seats. The sill areas have superfiacial bubbling of paint but seem sound. The only actual rot is a corroded bracket securing the handbrake cable which was easily re-made from strip seal. So far used about a litre of Hammerite and the same of bitumin based underseal. I am impressed with the spray can bitumin underseal for the hard to get to bits. I hope I do not need any welding as not many garages seem to do that now around here.
  2. I am most impressed that there are no rust MOT failures. Perhaps the fact of being in an owners club means that car problems are identified and rectified at an early stageor that underbody protection, phosphate coating etc was much improved from a certain date. Maybe around 2000? Certainly you do not see cars around with obvious rusty bodywork which you used to see in the 90's.
  3. Yes he was a pain and I was quite annoyed at him listing separately about 8 areas of rust. I showed the test place when I had my Avensis done the rust on the Yaris door bottom and they confirmed that not only was the door not an advisory but the car did not even need a door for the test!
  4. our 04 Yaris 1.3 is due its test next week. The previous test showed advisories for rust just about everywhere underside. However the tester was very picky in this as he also listed as an advisory the bottom edge of a rear door that had a few rust bubbles in the paint. That definatelt should not have been an advisory. I have worked away with a finger sander and chipping tool on the rear halfunderside of the car and after cleaning it up have mostly done it with Hammerite and then Bitumin Underseal. Lots of superficial rust but no holes so the back half should be ok, No time to do the front but visually the back was much worse than the was worse than the front. So my question is who has had a Yaris fail the MOT through rust in the structural bits and where abouts on the car was it. Also was it possible to repair it?.
  5. My Avensis lights are hopeless. I have tried better bulbs Nightbreakers and Philips without great improvement so I want to fit or get fitted some LEGAL higher spec lighting. I appreciate it is not cheap and may not be a completely sensible spend on an old car but they are dangerously poor in my opinion, and I am attached to the car otherwise. Has anyone experience of this and products/sources/fitters to recommend or any other wise words on the matter.
  6. The 4 securing bolts were removed with a struggle but the bearing flange seems to be rusted solid into its housing in the subframe. I have tried lots of wellie with a lump hammer on the bolt ends (which actually seem to be made for taking hammer blows on a socket extension as the are a small hex head with a larger forged flange) without it budging. I have soaked it in penetrating oil for a couple of days. It is an awkward place to apply heat and also the brake cylinder are on the back plate so that is a problem. Is there some clever way of getting out the bearing carrier. I cannot see any way a puller could grip?
  7. Thanks for that it certainly just looks like a bolt - perhaps it is just mostly corroded away - many thanks.
  8. Thanks for reply but no photo but as you look at the back end of the trailing arm you are looking at a square box section open end. Across the box section is a "bolt" with a rounded head at the wheel side, about 12mm diameter through the box section and reducing in diameter to about 10mm where it stick out about 50mm as a mounting bolt for the lower eye on the shock absorber. The fact that the wheel end has arounded head makes me wonder whether it is pressd in?
  9. At the back end of the trailing arm box section a "bolt" goes right through and the lower eye of the suspension unit bolts to this fixture. The outer end is a rounded cap so it may not be made to be removed. One side is a bit waisted by corrosion and would be better replaced. Any ideas if this is removable?
  10. Maybe an Outcome - took it to my local car spares shop (he only charged me £25 which was nice) and it quickly showed a C1332 which is a rear right wheel open circuit. If it is not a loose wire it may be just full of rust particles like both of the fromt ones were. As unable to clean it out it may be a new hub/bearing ABS at £26.50 and a couple of hours work to sort it...hopefully.
  11. Yes thanks - I think I have a laptop problem rather than a Techstream or MVCI problem as I get the "unable to initialize programme (oCx0000135 ) error message
  12. Failed totally to get Techstream to connect to OBD11 socket. I just get "failed to connect to VIM" error message in Techstream. Got a new all singing /dancing lead but perhaps still a driver problem (although my laptop skills are normally ok)problem so I will give up for the moment as I need to sort this car now so I will and get the local car shop to do their diagnostics and hopefully get this infuriating erratic ABS light error fixed.
  13. Stopped working, replaced the fob battery. The fob lights when actuated also the "security" small window on the dash lights when the fob is actuated but no noise from the central locking and no lock or unlock. Perhaps a fuse or the actuating solenoid which i assume is in the driver side door. Confirmation in the location of these would be helpful and any other bright ideas on tracing the problem. Thanks as I always get sensible and informative responses on this forum.
  14. That is very helpful thank you.
  15. What if I do not have a post code, say just want to go to Oxford! And do not know any relevant postcode.
  16. My 08 satnav is awful, you cannot go !to a town or city without inputting an address! Is there a software upgrade with better satnav. Not too bothered about latest maps just something that works.
  17. Hi Bought a new cable Minin VCI TIS supposed to be compatible with Techstream. When I try and connect I get a "cannot connect to VIM" although it looks as if the Techstream is functioning. So a connectivity problem- when I do a cable check there is no connectivity. I normally have patience sorting computer problems but this is driving me crazy!
  18. Thanks for all the good info and taking the time to find links to old posts covering this. All good stuff. I am making a start by getting a new Mini VCi cable-I have been using one about 10 years old that works with the very basicEasy OBD11. I just assumed that being OBD11 it would be ok. The Techstream now is loaded but not communicating with the car socket. When I run the cable check in Techstream it does not see any of the connections on the OBD11 plug in the 04 Yaris(french made ) or in my 08 Avensis.. Next step is to try the new cable. I will keeep you posted as it is always interesting to hear outcomes!
  19. I have this annoying internittent ABS fault light an our 04 Yaris. It can do fine for days and then the ABS light comes on. It may stay on and then go off or on stopping and restarting it is then ok for a while. I am loath to take it to a garage and pay £60 for diagnostics as it probably will not show if the fault is not current when they are diagnosing. However the test is due soon and I need to sort it before then. I have tried to put Techstream on my laptop as my basic OBD11 software (EasyOBD which is very good) does not show ABS and even their Premium Version does not do ABS faults. Anyway I bought a version off e bay and after entering software keys took me through to payment screen with various payment from annual at 300 euros and lesser payments for shorter periods(which is no good as I may wait several days for it to re-appear). I am still trying to get my money back on this! So tried a different seller and this seemed to load ok but there semed to be a connectivity problem with my OBD11 lead. When I come back to sort that out (I thought I had not perhaps downloaded the correct driver) the registration key would not accept. I am wondering whether it was really just a trial say i hour i.e. a scam. So I would like Techstream and I am happy to pay an affordable amout say under £60 but I am struggling to source Techstream that does not involve dodgy people and shakey software scams. Any ideas to source this?
  20. Does a warning light which is on when the car is stationary indicate a wiring fault rather than a sensor problem?
  21. Where do you find the paint code for a Yaris?
  22. My 04 Yaris is very rusty underside and I am in the process of removing all the surface rust (happily no holes yet) , then to coat with Hammerite and then underseal and hopefully get a few more years as it is mechanicaly very good and only 45K. There seem to be very limited options for under seal Totroseal or Hammerite Underbody Seal with added Waxoyl. I am thinking the Hammeite seal as I could brush on the easy areas and suspension arms and then use a spray of the same stuff for bits hard to access. My question is how does the Hammerite underbody seal dry - does it set to a hard but flexible coationg or just stay soft and perhaps sticky?
  23. Thanks Madas.. it looks as if the splash guard is between the disc and the hub so hopefully the large hole in the splash guard will go over the hub boss so just the disc and caliper off togthe. Does that sound right?