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Everything posted by sproutdreamer

  1. Hi Nearside front disc back plate/splash guard is corroded half away so even though not an advisory last test (surprised) I am inclined to replace it before this test if it is not a difficult job. I have looked in the Haynes Workshop Manual but that does not give any info. So what does replacing this cover entail?
  2. Soaking the ball joint in penetrating oil 2 days and then 50/50 penetrating oil and normal oil for 1 day seems to have freed it off ok. Just as well as despite intensive internet searches and asking the question of several large aftermarket suppliers who sell all sorts of small and obscure parts, none do an auto gear linksage.control,change "or call it what you will" cable. The selector now shows N,D.R & P lit on the dash gear selection display.
  3. I have searched e bay uk &europe, about 10 large aftermarket parts suppliers here and Europe ansd all I can find is one second hand one on e bay that looks as corroded as my own. My conclusion is that these parts just do not fail and there is no market for them -a testament to the reliability of the auto transmission system. I have soaked my ball joint end in penetrating fluid and it is still stiff but does now move. A temporary fix I think but it take a little pressure off getting another cable. It is not just the Toyota cost of £188 but I object to being ripped off over something with a real value of probably £50. I am still interested if anyone knows where I can get an aftermarket cable.
  4. I am really stuck for a sensibly priced auto gear linkage cable. There must be some out there as there are lots of manual gear change cables at around £90 and there is pair of cables for the manual transmisiion and only one for the auto box! Just a matter of finding a supplier of pattern parts for Toyotas-come on you experts.
  5. Although I like my old 1.8 auto I would quite like the safety features available on the business edition plus models such as autonomous emergency braking, LED headlights, cornering fog lights, reversing camera etc. My problem is I want to spend as little as possible and I would like petrol. There are quite a lot of 1.6 Avensis Business Edition plus compared to 1.8 models but I note that they are only 110BHP compared to the T25 127bhp of my current car. I would like a bit more power rather than less - are the 1.6 Avensis auto a bit sluggish?
  6. I was stunned to get a price quote for a auto gear selector cable for a 1.8 2008 auto Avensis of nealy £190 from Toyota. Are there any sources of pattern spares at a more sensible price for spares like this? Ball joint at end totally seized up and despite soaking in penetrating oil will not budge so definately need a new one!
  7. Just when I was feeling smug how well my 10 year old/80k Avensis Auto 1.8 was driving i have a gear selector problem developing. I think it is the ball joint at the gear selector on the transmission as it did it before but responded to a dose of oiling, also the N does not always show although gear & neutral select but feels a bit uncertain at the lever. Now the reverse selects ok but the reverse warning does not always come on. Has anyone a good link to an online workshop manual that covers autos (some do not). Thanks
  8. sproutdreamer


    The condesor radiator has a leak of fluid and the aircon system cannot be refilled until I fit a new condensor unit. I do not want to do that at present so we just do not use the aircon however I wonder if the aircon pump can be damaged by not having fluid in the sysetm? I am thinking seals drying out etc rather than the pump being run without fluid?
  9. Thanks for that but these are the ones that go around the bar clamped by a bracket to the front subframe, one each side?
  10. Hi When loosening the bolts holding down the split bushes is there a strong spring up or down by the roll bar and is it necessary to restrain it whilst taking off the old bush and re-fitting the new one thanks
  11. Just had a look at the Halfords can. It is also Glycol based as is the Comma and the ingredients although not exactly the same wording very similar so ok I think.
  12. I decided to bleed my brakes and at the same time change the fluid as it has never been done on a10 year old Avensis. So being wary of snapping off bleed nopples I gave them a dose of Penetrating Oil a couple of times before the day. All went well and I did get a bit of air out and flushed about 2/3 of a litre through althogether. I was topping up with Halfords DOT4 fluid and finished topping up with Comma DOT4 fluid, however the Comma Fluid is labelled synthetic. Have I boobed by mixing synthetic with non synthetic fluids and am I going to regret it? At the time I was thinking that they were both DOT4 and therefore compatible but does DOT4 only refer to temperature specs? I am aware that mixing 4 and 5 is a no no as one is Glycol and the other silicon based, just hoping that the Halfords Fluid just does not say synthetic although it is also a glycol base?
  13. Thanks for replies. I suspect these are pretty old tyres. Sidewalls look fine just the cracks between the treads. I have them booked in to be replaced tomorrow. I would have left it a while for just pottering about locally but motorway journeys need more certainty with the tyres.
  14. I thought I would have a look at my front brake pads and see what life they had as they were replaced 4 years ago. They were all ok @ about 5/6mm. I had a look at the tyres which both had about 3/4mm of tread however they both had numerous small but not continuous cracks in the treads at the base of the tread blocks. These were running around the circumference of the tyres. I have seen sidewall perishing and cracks before but have never noticed this type of cracking. Is this something that is common; I am surprised that the MOT tester a couple of months ago did not pick this up even just as an advisory. Just interested.
  15. Panic over. When I removed the cabin filter there was a layer of "compost" on the filter which consisted of leaves and laburnum pods. I still find it hard to believe that a strong chemical smell could have come from the rotting debris but with a new filter all is good. Thanks to all for advice and exploding diagrams.
  16. Hi Peter My leak is inside the heater/air con heat exchanger inside the car, no leaks under the bonnet. Hope you get it fixed-air con you only miss it when you have not got it!
  17. Thank you Konrad that is very helpful. When I run the engine and the air con the smell in the car is unbearable but there is no no smell at all under the bonnet so the problem must be within the heater/air con assembly in the car, presumably there is a heat exchanger and that is where the leak is or the pipework in there. I am not looking forward to sorting this out as garaghes are not an option apart from a refill when it is sound. My experience of heater problems is that they can be awful to access, I hope the Avensis is better! It does not help that there is no workshop manual for the T25 either.
  18. My air con has a very strong smell when switched on, presumably refrigerant leaking. The problem is I cannot see any leak or trace of leakage unless the fluid is so volatile it just flashes off? A possibility is the seals. Is there an easy way of identifying where the leak is coming from? Any other wise words about Avensis air con is also very welcome!
  19. Thanks madas.. I suspected that. Having cleaned both sensors after retapping screw threads it has settled down with no ABS light coming on, so I have a semsor ready if it starts to act up again.
  20. Bought a LH front wheel sensor new only £9.04 from atp-spareparts. It arrived in 3 days from Germany! So if the light comes on again I will swap the LH sensor for the new one and if the light comes on again swap the LH sensor into the front RH wheel. I have a feeling that only the clip on bracket is handed and that the sensors are the same so I will just re-use the old RH bracket, if it comes to that. Retest MORT on Monday I just hope it behave until Tuesday.
  21. Thinking about remedial welding to the underside. What areas of the underside are weldable and which are not. If I do get some welding done I need to be sure that I do nort get welded things that are not essential and omit things that are really important. The thing is that welders are not MOT testers so may be a bit of miscommunication possible. Any thoughts?
  22. Interesting Mick, what I suspected-after I bought the car unfortunately. When I have it tested as ok I will take it to a car welding shop and ask them to take a look at the advisories with a view to welding up the worst, most likely to cause a fail MOT next year. It is mechanically excellent and I would just like a couple more years from it. Also the crossbeam/axle is passable at the moment so perhaps a little work with a narrow strip sander and some Rust Oleum spray will halt the corroding process, and some other easy to access areas.
  23. It failed as both rear wheels had uneven braking but I could not tell driving the car. Also the back brakes were binding. After fitting new shoes I found it very difficult to have them not binding without excessive play on the handbrake so it failed on the handbrake play/binding also. When I took the brakes apart I found that both cylinders had one sticking piston each. Looking to see how the new shoes were bedding in it was clear that they were not quite square in the drum as the inner 1/8" on both shoes on both sides were bright and shiny but not the rest of the shoes. When I look closely at the drum back plate the bearing/slider sections have rust scales which I think were pushing the lining edge of the shoes off square hence the edges only bearing. In many years of car dodging I have never come across that before. New cylinders on tomorrow and retest Monday. Fingers crossed. I do like the Yaris as a local runabout but I would not like to do a long trip in it.
  24. Some feedback. MOT test today did not identify any problem with accumulated play of 1/2" in hub, splines/CV and inner splines.
  25. When I started preparing the Yaris for the MOT I became aware that it was pretty rusty undernieth. It took me back to the 60s and 70s when terminal rotting was common. Anyway I replaced the springs all round and shock absorbers rear and shoes - all advisories last MOT only 2K miles ago but I was a bit concerned about all the rust. The MOT advisoriestoday read pretty well that rear crossbeam, floor, chassis box sections were all pretty well rusted and the guy who did the test said to be careful not to spend too much money on it! Even at 14 years old I had expected better of Toyota than this. My Avensis at 10 years old is immaculate under and looks good for another 10. Perhaps the car coming from Glasgow was exposed to much more salt than in the NW? Am I expecting to much at 14?