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  1. Assuming the switches are in the door like my LC, the most likely cause is a fracture in the wires from the car to the door. If you know what you're doing with wiring then its pretty easy to check. If not, and autoelectrician would be your best bet.
  2. http://www.toyotaown...howtopic=131476 Enjoy!
  3. There is a known problem with the Amazon - I think its a thrust bearing in the torque convertor. I run a different LC so I'm not completely familiar with the issue, but a quick google turned up a specialist in Bristol who has fixed this issue for other Amazon owners: JP (Automatic Transmissions) Ltd 4a & 4b Pear Tree Industrial Estate Upper Langford Bristol BS40 5DJ ENGLAND Tel +44 (0) 1934 852772 Fax +44 (0) 1934 852211 www.jpat.co.uk bdp@jpat.co.uk
  4. I spent quite some time writing up help for your hubs issue and not a word of thanks. Doesn't make me inclined to help this time...
  5. I wonder if it is something to do with the power heat (mode where the car is set to warm up more quickly). I have a power heat button on my 120-series. It raises the revs, seems to alter the fueling and gets the car up to temp quickly
  6. The red button is for getting the car out of Park and into Neutral if the engine isn't running (ie. to be able to winch it onto a breakdown truck).
  7. We've been warning owners to change to the aluminium seals (and check the oil strainer is clear) for at least two years over at the land cruiser owners club (www.tlocuk.co.uk). Toyota effectively extended the warranty on these engines to 5 years/100,000 miles. So paid for new engines if they failed. Yours is more than a bit older than that! So you're into the realms of extended goodwill. Do you have any bargaining chips - Does your car have a full toyota service history? what's the mileage? If it had been almost any other car maker, the warranty would not have been extended the way Toyota have done. I know lots of VW owners who had to pay for their new injectors at much lower mileages than yours. Your other alternative is to go to a decent diesel specialist rather than toyota. The injectors are made by Denso if that helps.
  8. £40 each here: http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=11&cid=1084
  9. I've only had cars with manual hubs or permanent 4 wheel drive. I'm pretty certain the hub isn't locking/unlocking. But you might be lucky - it might be stuck in locked mode. Start by locking the hubs. Leave the tranmission in neutral, and the centre diff lock unlocked. Jack up the wheel you suspect has the faulty hub. Make sure the other three are on the ground If you can turn the wheel then its not locked. If it only goes a short distance then goes tight, its locked. If the one hub is permanently locked then I'd tend to run with the other one locked as well to minimise wear on the front diff. It won't make any difference in normal use except the car may use a bit more fuel. If the hub is parmanently unlocked however, you have a bigger problem. An unlocked hub will be useless when you're stuck in the mud. Even with one hub not locked, you lose traction to BOTH front wheels (although one hub will be locked, the power will only go to the wheel which is unlocked). I had this problem in the Masai Maraa once, and got very stuck in the mud, with a Cheetah eating its prey 100 metres away! If it costs a fortune to get the electric hub fixed, a cheaper option may be to fit manual hubs - means you have to get out and turn a knob in the centre of the hub. Hope this helps!
  10. Both causes related. The copper seals at the base of the injectors let exhaust gasses into the oil. The oil then sludges up, blocking the strainer in the sump. The engine then fails as a result of low oil pressure. To anyone reading this: If you haven't had your engine's injector seals changed to the later aluminium ones you need to get it done. There is a customer campaign out at the moment, where Toyota are footing the bill. If your engine isn't covered by the campaign (most are), I'd recommend paying the £200 or so to have them done. If there is any sign of blow-by when the copper seals are taken out, get your oil strainer checked/cleaned also. Post mid-2008 manufacture have the aluminium seals from new.
  11. It has to be the rear wheels - there's no height adjustment on the front wheels!
  12. Probably the height sensors at the rear wheels. You might get away with stripping and cleaning them, but probably need replacing. Sorry - don't knwo any specialists in that area.
  13. Since I wrote that, Toyota UK have been operating a customer service campaign to change the injector seals. Quite right too! The LC can go back to being the most reliable big 4x4 out there!
  14. The problem is mainly the seals at the base of the injectors. On LCs up to about 2008 these were made of copper, and eventually let exhaust gases go past. These exhaust gases end up in the oil, which goes sludgy, blocking the oil strainer and/or turbo. This can wreck the engine. Toyota have been replacing engines of affected cars up to about 5 years old. There is now a service campaign out to change the copper washers to the later aluminium versions. I don't know whether they will cover a 2004. If your car isn't covered I'd recommend paying to have it done. It doesn't have to be at a Toyota dealer - a good diesel specialist would be able to do it. Regard it as preventative maintenance the way you would a timing belt. Your LC4 should then be good for a further 100,000 miles.
  15. It could be local interference - try it about a mile away. It could be a blown fuse. Or it could be something worse - but try these two first!
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